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1st time extraction question , calcium hydroxide?

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Spiralout

Rising Star
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Hi everyone. I have been reading this forum and other forums off and on for years but never posted much that i can rememeber. Anyways,good site.

So i had a question regarding extracting dmt without lye. Lye has become difficult to find and is not an option. Acacia confusa would be the plant in question and it is pulverized into a powder. From the teks I have read you would then add vinegar and boil it for a while (can't remember how long) and then remove the plant material and re-boil with vinegar a few more times. Then you reduce the liquid and add LYE (*can this be replaced with calcium hydroxide or pickling lime?) After basing you then add naptha or another non polar solvent and pull the dmt. You then allow the solvent to sit, remove excess solvent leaving whatever crystals have formed, repeat etc.


My friend understands all this but can the lye be replaced? My friends extent with chemistry is a stb extracting dxm using ammonia (which you can't find without surfacents anymore) and ronsonol lighter fluid.

Any other tips are of course welcome. Thanks!
 
Do you have access to potassium hydroxide? I haven't personally used it in an extraction but I have read reports of others using it and supposedly it will work just as well as lye. I think I may have also read somewhere that sodium carbonate could be used in place of lye in most stardard teks, but I could very well be remembering that incorrectly.

I don't think calcium hydroxide will work with the teks that recommend using lye. But, like 3rdI said, there are teks out there that use calcium hydroxide if that is the only base you have access to. Browse through the different teks throughout the forum and I'm sure you'll find one that will work for you.
 
Im sorry , but if one were to use acacia confusa instead of mhrb would q2121's tek still work? I've heard things about there being more fat and it being harder to get xtals instead of goo... thanks!
 
spractral said:
Im sorry , but if one were to use acacia confusa instead of mhrb would q2121's tek still work? I've heard things about there being more fat and it being harder to get xtals instead of goo... thanks!

it would work on all plant material.

you may get goo (which is totally fine as is) that you could re-x.

but you would probably get goo with mhrb using q21.

the goo isn't necessarily composed of plant fats, but indeed could be entirely alkaloidal.


but yea, it would work regardless, and you can refine your product as much as you feel necessary (or just infuse the goo into changa).


the only real difference would be that acacia has significant NMT content.
 
Thank you for all the info. Changa seems like a good idea, i will recommend it to my friend. So, my friend is working on the q21 tek 2. He cannot find vm&p naptha anywhere and tried evaporating some ronsonol (yellow bottle) lighter fluid and it left a small bit of white residue
Any idea what else could be used?
 
spractral said:
Thank you for all the info. Changa seems like a good idea, i will recommend it to my friend. So, my friend is working on the q21 tek 2. He cannot find vm&p naptha anywhere and tried evaporating some ronsonol (yellow bottle) lighter fluid and it left a small bit of white residue
Any idea what else could be used?
Heptane/hexane. Or your friend could order some VM&P naphtha online...
 
So it's ok to use a different solvent like acetone even though the tek calls for naptha? I was thinking it would be fine but the 1st tek says to use different solvents and the 2nd says only use naptha. What makes a "dry" tek different? When you say evap it all down do you mean make sure it is relatively dry before adding a non polar solvent?Thanks for the replies!
 
I see you are in the USA are you sure you can't find lye.
It's called sodium hydroxide by it's proper name and that's what's on the label.
It's drain cleaner check supermarkets and hardware stores.
Its used to make soap as well.
Just ask for it you don't need id or anything.
He'll I use it to sanitise equipment at work.
 
Yes, I've helped my friend look all over the area and unfortunately can't find any. I used to live in another part of the country and could only find it at certain hardware stores but nevertheless i could find it. What's weird is that i can't find vm&p naptha anywhere. I havent looked for that in years but I remember seeing it everywhere.
 
No acatone is no good.
You need a non polar solvent.

You need to do some more research.
Read every tek then read some more look for videos on A/B extractions they can be found.
There is even a video on how to do an stb if you search around a bit.
Read read and then read again.
I would hate to see you waste your bark.

Good luck on your journey to hyperspace.
 
Hi,

if you can't find naptha that evaporates clean you can switch to Q21Q21 tek #1.
It has always worked wonders. Any kind of vegetable oil can be used instead of d-limonene
but it 's more efficient if the pullings are done in a hot bath.

You can also add a non-toxic deffating step if Acacia is used.:
Collect all your saltings( whethere they 're done with FASWor vinegar)together, and mix them with fresh veggie oil for a few minutes and then let seperate .
Some fats will migrate to the oil this way. Discard the upper oil layer and evaporate your fasw/vinegar to collect spice salts.

Everything you need to know is on the wiki. Do your research.

Wish you all the best.
 
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate all the responses and will certainly let you know when my buddy has tweaked it in a way that worked well for him. Thanks again !:thumb_up:
 
BnaiRagshee said:
Edible lime is for dry teks, it happens to be hydrophobic. You can still use it, you just have to evap it all down.
he is using Q21Q21, which is a dry tek
Spiritofspice said:
No acatone is no good.
You need a non polar solvent.
not necessarily.
granted a NPS would be preferable (And easy to find - i mean you already have vegetable oil in your cupboard no doubt)
but endlessness did an extraction with polar protic instead of non polar.
and the result was pretty decent, considering
 
Thanks for all the replies. Buddy picked up another bottle of ronsonol and this time it dried clear... maybe the 1st time the dish itself had some residue already? Not sure. But he went ahead mixing about 150ml hothot water and about 150ml vinegar to the confusa. The tek called for less but also called for mhrb and other people on here have seemed to need more liquid volume too to get it to the right consistency. This was shaken vigourously and periodically for about an hour/ hour and a half. This was done in a mason jar. Then 75grams of lime was stirred in slowly. This did not seem like enough and about another 25-45 grams of lime was added. This was mixed well intermittently for an hour. Then a 100ml of ronsonol was added and the mason jar was places in a bath of near boiling water in a rice cooker and the ronsonol was mixed in and out of the mush as well as possible for aprox 20 minutes. This was then poured off into a pyrex dish and allowed to sit in front of a heated fan for a while to reduce volume/concentrate alkaloids. This was then poured off into a small mason jar and put in multiple freezer bags and put in the freezer for 8 hours. When it was taken out the ronsonol was poured into the mush mason jar so the solvent could be used as part of the next pull. He was only left with what looked like 30mg tops of very white pure looking xtals. Another pull was done 24 hours later and once again allowed volume to be reduced in a glass pan before putting in a mason jar and allowed to sit this time for 14 hours. This time there was less xtals and they melted very easily, not even worth trying to get them! However, the glass pan that was used to reduce volume had all this stickyish yellow orange liquid left in it after the ronsonol was poured off. It wasnt all that much but it was very active. Even more active than the first clean looking xtals. This could be cus there was more of it as there was no way to weigh the liquid. Hope this description is good enoigh. Any clarification, please ask.

He has no clue what could be wrong! Any insight would be great! My gut says the mush needs to be basified even more and the jars need to then be agitated more and left to sit longer? Or the bark just isnt potent? The yeilds are so ridiculously low though that something just must not be right. And xtals are preferable to my friend but I personally don't mind the goo as i feel like changa might be the best way to approach this path. But the yields are very dissapointing!

Thanks for reading!
 
Any ideas how a to better tweak the extract? Thinking maybe heat up the mush when it is in the acidic stage and then use maybe even more lime and then let it sit longer and agitate it more before pulling? Here is attached pix of the goo from pulls 3 and 4 which were done right after one another and added together and allowed to just evap instead of bothering to try to get xtals. The 2 pulls (3 and 4) were done after even more lime was added and agitated plenty. Well im on a phone (droid os ) and cant seem to figure out how to attach pix.. the goo looks the same though no tests have been run on it.. there seems to be a much better yieldthough, thinking it needed more lime and more time to sit. Any thoughts?
 

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I just wanted to post another picture. This is from using the dry tek with lime and doing Quick warm pulls and just letting it evaporate. After 16 hours or so it is dry and able to be broken into crystals. Anyways its all going to be infused into a mix. Just thought this was a cool pix. =)
 

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