• Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).

amor_fati's Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem

Migrated topic.

amor_fati

Rising Star
Senior Member
OG Pioneer
I made a tek for this on the wiki: The Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem - DMT-Nexus Wiki


Original OP:
amor_fati said:
[from: "the (mini) machine" step by step guide (31¢ cost) - Vaping/Smoking - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus ]
amor_fati said:
SWIM's been using a simple bowl with a copper mesh bed with a bubbler for some time now, but it's difficult not to burn since there's no protection between the spice and the flame (other than skill); not to mention that some amount of resin always ends up in the stem.

The advantages of "the machine" is that having a copper mesh between the product and the flame protects the product from burning as well as distributing the heat of the flame fairly evenly and rapidly to the product. However, most have a difficult time making one in the recommended fashion. Also, many prefer to cool their vapor by bubbling it through water prior to administration, and a properly constructed "machine" does not easily facilitate this.

One of SWIM's earliest improvised vaporizers used a copper mesh plug in a glass dropper stem, in which the product was loaded into the open end, and the nozzle end was used for inhalation (Reintroducing My Alternative to "The Machine" - DMT Discussion - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus). This was later adapted for use with a bubbler by attaching a gasket originally for use in plumbing (Improvised Labware Vapor Bubbler - DMT Discussion - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus). However, this still utilized fairly direct heating and much of what ran down the the glass would be wasted.

So this is what SWIM's done that seems to work incredibly well:

Materials and Equipment Required:
-A Butane Torch (same one that will be used for vaporization)
-A Glass Dropper Stem (either from a pharmacy OTC or an online vendor)
-Copper or Stainless Steel Pan Scrubber (as long as the metal doesn't burn of melt with the use of a butane torch)
-A Thin Metal Rod (even a paper clip would probably work)
-Pliers
-2 Rubber Gaskets (found in the plumbing section, must fit snugly around the dropper stem)

Procedure:

1. Carefully crush the nozzle of the dropper stem with pliers, leaving a slight portion of the nozzles curve.
2. Heat the broken end of the stem with a torch so that the sharp edges are dulled and any cracks sealed.
3. Cut off a piece of the metal scrub pad, hold it with pliers, and burn with a torch under an oven hood until no more smoke is emitted.
4. After it has cooled, stuff it in the larger end of the dropper stem, and use a thin metal rod to stuff it down toward the nozzle-end somewhat tightly, and so that a part of the mesh is exposed out of the broken end.
5. Fit two gaskets on the stem far enough from the plug to avoid heat but far enough from the other end to provide a stable stem.

Administration:

1. Place product into the open end of the stem and stuff down to the plug with a thin metal rod.
2. Feather the glass with a torch until the product melts into the mesh plug.
3. Insert the stem into a bubbler as a bowl, with the open end in.
4. Use a torch to apply heat to the mesh plug while drawing air through the bubbler.

Notes:

-The second gasket generally makes the piece safer to handle--especially if used as a pull stem--while the other provides a seal.
-For group sessions, it would be easiest to prepare an individual piece for each person so that dosage can be more easily regulated.
-When handling the piece after heating, handle by the gasket and avoid any part of the heated portion of the glass coming into any contact with hard surfaces.
-A good way to cool down a stem is to roll if rapidly between the palms, drawing the heat off the glass.


This device could potentially be used on its own as a discreet portable vaporizer if augmented with an easily removable mouthpiece to protect from inhaling any solids or liquids.

For those not able to easily obtain proper bubblers, SWIM will also work on an easy way to apply this to a labware bubbler.
 

Attachments

  • P1050415.JPG
    P1050415.JPG
    2.4 MB · Views: 0
  • P1050434.JPG
    P1050434.JPG
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
  • P1050442.JPG
    P1050442.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • P1050444.JPG
    P1050444.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
Thats a really cool idea. Swim has been using the leaf bed / infused leaf methods but this holds promise for perhaps loading up more than one hit.
 
To clean it all you need to do is attach a chemically resistant dropper head as it would normally be attached and draw in some acetone and squirt it out. Remove the head and use a q-tip to finish the job.


Here's a simple method of using it with an improvised labware bubbler: The segment of latex on the top of the inlet is folded over itself to make a wide even rim to facilitate a proper seal with the glass rim of the dropper stem. The mouthpiece is a longer dropper tube (Pasteur pipette) connected to the nozzle of the vacuum flask by another segment of latex tubing (so that it's flexible), which is a method introduced to SWIM by Nime. There are plenty of better ways to do this if you have the equipment on hand or willing to purchase it, but this is just what SWIM had on hand.
 

Attachments

  • P1050449.JPG
    P1050449.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • P1050452.JPG
    P1050452.JPG
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
To use without the bubbler, attach a small section of latex tubing, and connect the nozzle end of a straight dropper stem. Usually droppers come in packs of two--one bent nozzle and one straight--so the bent nozzle should be the one used as the machine while the straight one can be reserved as the mouthpiece.
 

Attachments

  • P1050454.JPG
    P1050454.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
SWIM suggests that any SWIYs trying this should experiment with varying mesh plug sizes. SWIM found that doubling his (the one pictured) was more optimized for larger doses and reduced runoff. Runoff can be quite minimal, but there will be some due to there being no lip between the plug and the rest of the piece and the typically downward angle at which it sits. SWIM hasn't had anything run out of the piece, however (which was not the case when he used a regular bowl).

For use, SWIM suggests keeping a little distance with the lighter, just so the tip of the mesh glows. This will heat quite rapidly, so it may be a little hotter than other methods of vaporization; cooler water in the bubbler is advisable.
 
As I amended to the OP, there's now a wiki article for this that seems like a much more clear and concise presentation of the construction and administration of this device: The Mini-Machine Bubbler Stem - DMT-Nexus Wiki

I also took the liberty of adding some more notes and elaborations of SWIM's pertaining to the device. Most significantly is the cheap alternative to the gasket pictured (they can be a little pricey for their size and quantity) by using a rolled or folded section of latex (so damn useful) as a ring around the stem. And though the piece doesn't seem to get at all hot toward the middle, it may still be advisable to make the ring wide enough to grip.

By the way, SWIM's dying to hear some feedback from any SWIYs trying this. He hasn't gotten much chance to explore it too thoroughly, since he came up with it at the end of the weekend (though admittedly much more than he should have), nor has he had the chance to get any second opinions from trip-buddies yet. He's very excited for the weekend.
 
A quick tip after a wonderful night ("Apocalypse Now," THH tincture, two bubblers, jew's harp, and mini-machines): SWIM's buddy discovered a great way to recover active runoff! With the same rod used for loading the device, push the mesh plug from the nozzle end all the way up to the open end, then push it back down. Simple as that! This may also be a decent way to load it as well, but that was thought of late in the game.

SWIM has to say that this device may be a bit difficult to get the full dose in one go, but SWIM must say that he's getting fuller doses than he's ever gotten before--much more than his bubbler can handle without continuous carbing (though the labware bubbler's a bit of a different story).

Another tip for those introducing people to spice: Prepare a labware bubbler, draw on it to fill with vapor, allow your guest to inhale freely.

Turning in for the night...have some serious fun, psychonauts!
 
By the way, SWIM's buddy seems to prefer the labware bubbler to the bong bubbler, and it does seem a bit simpler to use. SWIM's grown accustomed to the bong and has adapted this new device well to be used with it. Anyway, SWIM's glad that he doesn't have to fight for custody over a commonly preferred device. The labware bubbler is definitely the bubbler of choice for SWIM's guests. Maybe he should invest in another one and try a different design with a carb or something?

SWIM's actually thinking that with his next design, he'll bend a glass tube and have the straight end descend into the water basin while the bent end will have the mini-machine attached to it with latex and angled downward to prevent runoff. The machine won't have to be removed, either, if a carb is drilled into the stopper.

Whenever SWIM has guests over for spice sessions, he instructs them on how to make their own mini-machine, which can be accomplished in maybe under twenty minutes. This helps them become a bit more comfortable, fond, and appreciative of the device, and since they have their own, they're free to experiment, tweak their methods, and also load their own doses. Plus, one could potentially send them home with a "nightcap."

The ideal way to store these is with the dropper bulb capped over the nozzle end to protect it from breakage, which is also a good way to keep track of the bulb for when the device needs to be cleaned.
 
Some variations in design:

P1050511.JPG
 
I didnt read this thread fully so if someone mentioned it allready - sorry.
As is this works at an almost 45 degree angle - but if this is modified so that the tube points 45 degrees downwards - then loaded on the squeezy size of the pipe (top) and flamed from below so the spice melts and tries to drip towards the heat source while the heat chases it back up again wouldnt it work better ?
 
Phlux- said:
I didnt read this thread fully so if someone mentioned it allready - sorry.
As is this works at an almost 45 degree angle - but if this is modified so that the tube points 45 degrees downwards - then loaded on the squeezy size of the pipe (top) and flamed from below so the spice melts and tries to drip towards the heat source while the heat chases it back up again wouldnt it work better ?

Yep, that's SWIM's plan for his next lab bubbler. As is, it works just fine, but keeping the drip toward the heat source would likely result in a more complete hit.
 
Here's a tip: When pushing the plug up the length of the stem then back down into place, it's a good idea to keep a finger on the end in order to avoid putting stress on the glass curvature. If the the glass curvature does break off (usually as a chunk, not shattering or anything), SWIM simply pushes the plug away from that end and uses a torch to melt the sharp edges right there on the spot. When he pushes the plug back down into place (after cooling the glass of course), he keeps his finger on the end to mushroom the plug a bit in order that it stays firmly in place.

SWIM had an interesting experience with some guests over the other night. SWIM's friend was having trouble achieving visuals (SWIM was letting his buddies coach her, and didn't know the full details of her dosage), but SWIM was afraid that she may be immune to the hallucinogenic effects. SWIM and his buddy set about on a mission to break her through by loading decent doses in two separate pieces, and fill the chamber of the labware bubbler and having her inhale that. This was done in rapid succession with SWIM filling the chamber for the first three (the third one was after collecting the runoff from the first), then tagging his buddy to proceed with the rest. SWIM's THH was already wearing off by this time, and the whole thing felt like some cosmic circus act; SWIM was absolutely saturated with vapor the end of this. Anyway, she broke through to playdo land, so mission accomplished, but then SWIM simply realized that there hadn't been goven a large enough dose loaded into the piece to begin with.
 
Here's an interesting device that could double nicely as separatory device and a bubbler:

salad-sunrise-oil-vinegar.jpg


SWIM remembers a while back when some members were discussing alternative methods of machine construction using oil/vinegar bottles, and this kind of reminded him of that.

Anyway, the way SWIM would use such a device is to connect the mini-machine piece to the long tube with a section of latex tubing, have the basin filled about a quarter full with water, have a glass tube attached to the short tube by latex tubing as a mouthpiece, have stopper with a hole in it as a carb. One advantage of this design would be the downward angle of the piece to prevent runoff. Another would be the ability to switch to inhaling from the top, like a bong, using the shorter tube as a carb.

This may be SWIM's next bubbler design. If it turns out that it doesn't bubble so nicely as SWIM would like, he'll just have a nice new separatory device for extractions.


Edit:
SWIM just did a simple test by bubbling air with his little gravy separator, and it works just fine. SWIM's sights are set.

2nd Edit:
Here's a couple links where this can be found:
XL SALAD SUNRISE OIL & VINEGAR BOTTLE design by Droog
http://designmuseumshop.com/catalogue/eat-drink/salad-sunrise-oil-vinegar-set
 
SWIM's considering doing away with acetone altogether, since he no longer requires it for freebasing. Now he's searching for a nontoxic method of pipe cleaning. He's thinking vinegar (to facilitate recycling of any leftover product), followed by a sodium carbonate solution (to neutralize the vinegar), followed by water (to wash out any leftover salts or base), then scrubbing with a cotton swab and heating to eliminate moisture from the piece.
 
SWIM found that this model has little to no real advantage over the original models and is uncomfortable to work with, so don't bother.

Yet another variation, made with a piece that had already been retired--still requires testing. That sort of ball chain can be used to help load the piece, since it's angled. The advantage, of course, would be that the product may not able to runoff at this angle. The bend was simply made carefully with a butane torch with the plug already in place. SWIM imagines this won't be so comfortable as his regular piece, but that it would be ideal for measured breakthrough doses.
 

Attachments

  • P1050687.JPG
    P1050687.JPG
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
Back
Top Bottom