Thanks for the info Infundibulum.
there is not such thing as dmt tannate, nor dmt salt. In acidic solutions, dmt exists as protonated species and that's all. Acids (be it from the plant or added by the extractor) just help the solution to be acidic.
Please help me understand. With FASA the freebase DMT reacts with the Fumaric acid to form the DMT salt DMT-Fumerate. For pharma adding freebase DMT to lemon juice turns to DMT-citrate. Are you saying the DMT state naturally occuring in plants stays in that state (which isn't a DMT plant salt such as DMT-tannate) regardless of the acid type added to the solution?
I do not see the point using carbonated water, as you say it will escape. Why not use some other not so volatile acid?
I was hoping the acidity would help for as long as it lasts per boil. Each new boil gets new carbonated water. If so this could be used for Caapi brew to obtain a better taste as rahlii
mentions. Instead of boiling in an open pan, could you heat in a closed bottle preventing co2 from escaping keeping the solution acidic?
I agree that for extractions using an acid which doesn't evaporate away half way through the process makes more sense. Which other acid easily obtainable as food grade would work (not mess with the veggie oil)? Citric acid?
Will sodium carbonate be just as efficient as lye? - I'd say no - sodium carbonate works poorly in raising the pH in complex solutions such as plant concoctions. Will work in simple solutions though like water & dmt salt.
For plant concoctions. If I do 3 boils on the bark, discard bark, combine boils, evap down, let solids settle for several days in the fridge, separate solids. Will the remaining solution be "simple enough" to use with sodium carbonate? Or will lye still be preferred? Again the point is easily obtainable food grade products. But I don't want to scarifies yield.
I personally do not trust sunflower oil. Sunflower oil will saponify to some extent when in contact with base and those soapy compounds (soluble in water and no polar solvent) will be hard to get rid of.
Good to know. So the trick is finding the right base /oil type combo. There are 4 main options for bases: Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide, Sodium Carbonate. There are plenty of options for veggie oil: sunflower oil, rice oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, etc. I could test for soapy compound formations. Will the "soap" be visible? Or will it dissolve in the NPS, then redissolve in the back salting solution and only become visible after evaporation?
Maybe Endlessness has already tried the extend soaps come along and stay using rigorous detection approaches as opposed to theory (me, here) and has come to more solid conclusions?
If anyone has any info regarding which acids, basis and veggie oils work best and duration /temp suggestions, please do share.
Already found some info
here, but since the hippy salad tek disappeared almost everyone stopped talking about veggie oil as NPS.
Thanks for the help guys. It would be really nice if we could get this tek working.