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Extraction temperature

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sshulgin

Rising Star
Hello friends,

I was reading plenty of teks an asking around and I see some do the extraction at ambient temperature while other warm the soup to 60°.

How important is to heat it up to 60° degrees compared to ambient temperature?

How long should I let the lye act before each pull?

I see some teks wait up to 3 weeks for the 3rd pull while others deem this unnecessary.

I'm using N-Heptane if that matters.

What's your take?

Thaaaanks!!
 
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sshulgin,

I'm no expert but I have completed successful extractions many times.

I let the lye do its magic cell breaking work for 1 to 2 hours before moving forward.

Heat is optional. I'm not sure there is any proof of higher yields. If you use it use a hot water bath with no flame or electrical element nearby.

Rather than waiting weeks to do a final pull what I would suggest is when you get to your final pull stretch the process out over 24 hours. Do the agitation and then let the jar sit covered on the counter and come back to it periodically whenever you think of it and give it another loving agitation. The idea is picking up strays. Then the next day do that final pull.

Heptane will definitely work and should pull very clean spice.

I do hope you will share your results once you extract.
 
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We are talking about Mimosa right, or another source? or you mean cacti?

My last extractions, long ago for MHRB where A/B, which I cooked (I mean first step with acidified water extraction!, not in the second step when is thoroughly filtered and then the volume reduced and then basified, this should only extract more fat and should be done cold I think?).

Actually thought Petroleum-Ether was very selective for nn-DMT, that why you don't want to use xylene/toluene, only after few pulls to get 5-MeO-DMT(which I am not eager to try), but then you have to separate the toxic bufotonin. Don't know about heptane?

For cactus I think STB is the way to go. A/B was a mess. With STB heating is a no go if you don't want to get emulsions.

Maybe these are outdated but I guess I stick to this methods.

With dmt, Freeze-precipation is enough to get pure stuff. (I did some defatting if I remember correct, and use new solvent every pull). For the extraction I used pet-ether with boiling point 40-60 Celsius to easily evaporate. For freeze-precipation boiling 100-120, to get it as warm as possible so less volume is needed.

With mescaline, if you separate and calculate the sulfuric-acid exactly (never tried HCL, since it's hygroscopic and doesn't form nice crystals) is already pretty clean (I also did use new solvent since I was combining them to separate in two parts for salting to calculate the sulfuric-acid exactly) but no defatting then only a few washes in a mortar with anhydrous acetone en IPA makes it close to white.

With both I did filter the acid(salt) solution through a funnel stuffed with wimps. Always used PH-paper, that's the best. The expensive PH-meter, was unnecassery, worse and sometimes even useless.
 
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Heating is not obligatory when extracting from MHRB with naphtha, but the lower the temperature, the more pulls you'll need. Using a hot water bath with heptane is a reasonable idea because pure n-heptane has a BP of 98C so it's easy to make best use of this expensive solvent that way.

Jahvisions - have a look for "CIELO" to answer your questions about cactus extraction. Titration with sulfuric acid is no longer strictly necessary.

And "a funnel stuffed with wimps"? Perhaps something got lost in translation here :lol: Cotton wool, maybe?
 
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