• Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).

Hi! I just did my very first DMT extraction, can I improve my tek? (Straight To Base)

darkdaver666

darkdaver666

Esteemed member
Hello! I just did my very first dmt extraction using a ''Straight To Base Tek''.
I followed instructions from a few videos I've seen online but I find it a bit confusing.
So I followed some guidelines that I thought made sense but, I'm no chemist, and I wonder if I can improve on this tek.
Here's exactly what I did in details:

Ingredients:
75g of powdered Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
550ml of distilled water
60g of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda)
100ml of naphtha

Steps:
1- In a 750ml bottle, pour in 550ml of distilled water and dissolve 60g of sodium hydroxide. Gradually add the caustic soda while stirring to prevent overheating. The solution will become warm and cloudy. Let it sit for about 1 hour to cool down.

2-Once the solution is well-cooled, add 75g of MHRB. Stir the mixture for 2 minutes and let it sit for 10 minutes, repeating this process at least 8 times.

Optional: Perform steps 1 and 2 the day before and let it rest overnight. This allows the basic solution to penetrate the MHRB more effectively. (true?)

3- Add 100ml of naphtha. The naphtha will separate from the solution and float on top. To mix the two layers, invert the bottle, wait 5 seconds, then flip it back, repeating this process 50 times. Be careful not to shake or agitate too vigorously, as this can create an emulsion that slows down separation. Let it separate, then repeat the process 4 times.

Optional: During separation, it may be beneficial to slightly warm the solution. To do this, place the bottles in a sink and run warm water over them, letting them soak. This will increase the solubility of the naphtha. Let it cool before opening the bottles to minimize fumes. (true?)

4- Once well separated, use a pipette to remove the naphtha from the mixture. Be careful not to take any impurities with the naphtha, transfer it to a bowl of warm water for cleaning (water wash).

5- Mix the warm water and naphtha and let it separate. The naphtha should now be clean and free of impurities. Remove it with a pipette as in step 4 and transfer it to an airtight Pyrex container.

6- Place the container in the freezer and allow the solution to crystallize for at least 12 hours. 24 hours is recommended, especially for the last extractions.

7- Pour off the excess naphtha and let the crystals dry for about 2 hours with a fan. The excess naphtha can be reused for the next extraction. You can repeat the process 3 to 4 times from step 3 with the same MHRB solution. Each repetition will yield a smaller harvest.

Scrape the dry crystals with a razor blade and finally collect the precious DMT! :)


That's it! I processed 300g of powdered MHRB using this method and I got 3.8g of DMT, I was expecting about 5g. Is this a decent yield? Can I improve anything in my method?
I would like to know your thoughts, thanks! :)
 
Last edited:
Sort by date Sort by votes
Looks like you did great. I'm a rank noob, myself. But if you add a little more base and let it sit for a few days, you might get a little more. Definitely warming helps. I put the bottle in a pot of water and warm it on the stove, letting it sit for a while.

So, add a little more lye, wait for reaction. Add Naptha. Invert. Warm the bottle for an hour. Invert. Let sit for a few days. Shake gently. Warm again for a while. Warming helps break emulsions. Pull. Then, maybe a Xylene pull. Xylene pulls are just evaped.
 
Upvote 1 Downvote
I think a 2 percent yield is very rare, nowadays, a 1 percent yield is expected, anything above that is very good.
Its because in the past there where very good rootbark harvests, now the harvest is a bit rushed, I think, but dont quote me on that.

Keep pulling till the naphtha does not yield anything anymore. Use small amounts of naphtha, some will stay dissolved in it (unless you evaporate the naphtha).
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
brokedownpalace10 said:
Looks like you did great. I'm a rank noob, myself. But if you add a little more base and let it sit for a few days, you might get a little more. Definitely warming helps. I put the bottle in a pot of water and warm it on the stove, letting it sit for a while.

So, add a little more lye, wait for reaction. Add Naptha. Invert. Warm the bottle for an hour. Invert. Let sit for a few days. Shake gently. Warm again for a while. Warming helps break emulsions. Pull. Then, maybe a Xylene pull. Xylene pulls are just evaped.
Click to expand...
I never heard of the Xylene Pull thing, I'll look into that. thanks!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
darkdaver666 said:
Hello! I just did my very first dmt extraction using a ''Straight To Base tek''.
I followed instructions from a few video I've seen online but I find it a bit confusing.
So I followed some guidelines that I thought made sense but, I'm no chemist, and I wonder if I can improve on this tek.
So, here's exactly what I did in details:

Ingredients:
75g of powdered Mimosa Hostilis root bark (MHRB)
550ml of distilled water
60g of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda)
100ml of naphtha

Steps:
1- In a 750ml bottle, pour in 550ml of distilled water and dissolve 60g of sodium hydroxide. Gradually add the caustic soda while stirring to prevent overheating. The solution will become warm and cloudy. Let it sit for about 1 hour to cool down.

2-Once the solution is well-cooled, add 75g of MHRB. Stir the mixture for 2 minutes and let it sit for 10 minutes, repeating this process at least 8 times.

Optional: Perform steps 1 and 2 the day before and let it rest overnight. This allows the basic solution to penetrate the MHRB more effectively. (true?)

3- Add 100ml of naphtha. The naphtha will separate from the solution and float on top. To mix the two layers, invert the bottle, wait 5 seconds, then flip it back, repeating this process 50 times. Be careful not to shake or agitate too vigorously, as this can create an emulsion that slows down decantation. Let it decant, then repeat the process 4 times.

Optional: During decantation, it may be beneficial to slightly warm the solution. To do this, place the bottles in a sink and run warm water over them, letting them soak. This will increase the solubility of the naphtha. Let it cool before opening the bottles to minimize fumes. (true?)

4- Once well-decanted, use a pipette to remove the naphtha from the mixture. Be careful not to take any impurities with the naphtha; transfer it to a bowl of warm water for cleaning (water wash).

5- Mix the warm water and naphtha and let it decant. The naphtha should now be clean and free of impurities. Remove it with a pipette as in step 4 and transfer it to an airtight Pyrex container.

6- Place the container in the freezer and allow the solution to crystallize for at least 12 hours. 24 hours is recommended, especially for the last extractions.

7- Pour off the excess naphtha and let the crystals dry for about 2 hours with a fan. The excess naphtha can be reused for the next extraction. You can repeat the process 3 to 4 times from step 3 with the same MHRB solution. Each repetition will yield a smaller harvest.

Scrape the dry crystals with a razor blade and finally collect the precious DMT! :)


That's it! I processed 300g of powdered MHRB using this method and I got 3.8g of DMT, I was expecting about 5g. Is this a decent yield? Can I improve anything in my method?
I would like to know your thoughts, thanks! :)
Click to expand...
1.Seems fine to me. You can get away with even less sodium hydroxide if you felt like it. I use 30g and follow a similar process. Good job on adding it slowly to decrease the cool down time.

(I think when you are using the word decant you are meaning separate because decanting is when you pour slowly something off. )

Optional: Yes if you let the base soup sit for 24 hours before adding your naptha it will increase the yield of your first 2 pulls significantly.

2. When stirring the idea is to make sure to get all of your bark mixed as evenly as possible with no clumps. Not necessarily a specified time. Just make sure you have a good consistency like tomato soup and that all clumps are evenly mixed. How I ensure this is I divide my liquid amounts in half and mix my lye water and bark water separately. Once the lye water is cooled I will then add it to my bark water. I believe it helps mix a lot better this way to evenly distrubute everything and ensure you are maximizing the amount of solution contacting the bark.


3. You don't have to do it 50 times exactly there isn't an exact number for it but yes you have the right idea and add the motion of a figure 8 to your spin while moving your arms like you are pedaling a bike.

Optional: yes you can use a heat bath to help increase the solubility of the naptha allowing it to carry more than it normally would be able to at room temperature. This can help if you are trying to maximize the saturation of each pull. Place your vessel in a bowl of warm water and replace warm water in between each time you mix. Make sure you are cracking the lid frequently to allow the pressure build up to escape. When leaving the vessel to separate I will usually leave the cap unscrewed and just have loosely on.

Also if it helps you don't have to get it in your head that It has to be 50 times exactly for mixing. I generally will mix 6-7 times (referring to the amount of times separated during the mixing process) over the course of an hour about 30 seconds to a minute each time of mixing and then go from there. That is even probably excessive in of itself but you have the right idea in making sure to fully saturate and be contacting as much bark to NPS as possible.




4. Should I wash my spice?

the idea behind a water wash is to remove excess lye contamination and if you were going to do that you want to use something with more of a tube shape to it rather than a bowl.
I haven't found water washing necessary if instead a recrystallization is performed on the crystals yielded initially. When redissolving the (possibly lye or plants particly tainted) crystals in fresh solvent, any lye or plant particles still present tend to agglomerate or even stick to the glass and are easily separated by decanting the hot dmt laden solvent into a clean precipitation container for recrystallization.
How does one recrystallize?


6. Sometimes if your NPS isn't saturated enough and your freezer doesn't get cold enough then you'll want to leave in for 24-48 hours but if you can achieve super saturation and evaporate some of the naptha off before placing in the freezer you can definitely have it crash out a lot sooner. Ideally you want your freezer to reach -18 but as I've said saturation of the solvent and the amount of solvent being used really determines the rate of precipitation. Evaporate some of your solvent off before placing in the freezer. You'll see it begin to get milky whisps running through it and this is when you know it's super saturated.

Also make sure you are placing a piece of foil over your snap cover. Naptha doesn't react with foil but will react with plastic and yes you do want to make sure its a good tight fitting snap lid so a bunch of moisture from the freezer doesn't leak in causing ice. Also don't want naptha to leak into your freezer.





7. Yes you can re-use your naptha as many times as you want and it is recommended. I will pour it straight from the freezer back into my vessel and keep going till I see no more DMT coming out on the pyrex dishes however many pulls it takes them when it is done I'll put it back into the main jar it came in. Also when pulling out of the freezer make sure you allow the pyrex to drain off the rest of the large drops before turning it back to facing up. Best way to do this is to rest the pyrex dish leaning against a wall with a paper towel under it or another pyrex dish. What I like to do is get a large pyrex dish and then place the smaller dish facing down inside the larger pyrex so that the lip is resting on the inner lip of the pyrex dish making a sort of pyrex ramp.
this allows for air flow from the fan to reach up under the dish and minimizes dust and hair to that will float up into it and allow the air to not be directly blasting the spice as to accidentally send it all over the room. I will place a mini fan in front of this or an AC window unit (which AC window fan unit is ideal for eliminating problems with condensation and preferred over a mini desk fan but it that's all you got it's better than nothing).

Place your dish immediately in front of cool fan upside down to drain onto something after about 15-20 minutes of that or when you see that the bigger drops are dry you can then flip it back face up and cover it with a sheet of foil and some slits cut into the foil for air flow but so it doesn't blow your spice all around or cover with paper towel and rubber band or panty hose. I personally like working with foil best.


Then after about an hour scrape your crystals up into a pile and chop them to a powder. Do this until you achieve a nice powdered consistency and don't smell anymore naptha. After chopping once though I'll usually leave back in front of fan with a cover on for another hour then give it another chop and it's done. You'll be able to tell it's done when you can't smell any naptha anymore. Scraping and chopping while it's drying allows for trapped solvent to escape.




I don't know much about math or percentages or yields yet and I'm pretty bad about recording my own data because I genuinely believe that the 2 brain cells I have left are just dead hamsters but hey it sounds like you've been yielding pretty decent.


From my understanding if you have 100g of bark and get 1.8g back, then that would be 1.8% and usually MHRB yield between 1-3% on average.
So yes judging by MHRB standard 3.8g of 300g is 1.27% yield which seems pretty good to me 🦑🌌



hopefully I could be of some help
Good luck on your journeys!

🌌🦑❤️🕉️
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
If you warm naphtha, think about:
-The boiling temperature, take a good look at what is actually in the naphtha, perhaps look up the cas-nr, some carbohydrates hydrocarbons boil at pretty low temperatures, you never want to exceed that, or the naphtha will become a gas, bubble/spray out, or even explode your vessel (if it has a lid).
-Always use warm water bath to increase the temperature, never have an open flame anywhere near your naphtha, as it very likely will burn/explode on you, and you dont have to 'touch' the flame to the naphtha to have that happen: a vessel without a lid will evaporate naphtha into the air, I think you only need 2 percent naphtha in the air in your room + one flame to go BOOM.
-ventilate properly when using naphtha, you dont want to inhale the vapours at all.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
The_Embalmer said:
1.Seems fine to me. You can get away with even less sodium hydroxide if you felt like it. I use 30g and follow a similar process. Good job on adding it slowly to decrease the cool down time.

(I think when you are using the word decant you are meaning separate because decanting is when you pour slowly something off. )

Optional: Yes if you let the base soup sit for 24 hours before adding your naptha it will increase the yield of your first 2 pulls significantly.

2. When stirring the idea is to make sure to get all of your bark mixed as evenly as possible with no clumps. Not necessarily a specified time. Just make sure you have a good consistency like tomato soup and that all clumps are evenly mixed. How I ensure this is I divide my liquid amounts in half and mix my lye water and bark water separately. Once the lye water is cooled I will then add it to my bark water. I believe it helps mix a lot better this way to evenly distrubute everything and ensure you are maximizing the amount of solution contacting the bark.


3. You don't have to do it 50 times exactly there isn't an exact number for it but yes you have the right idea and add the motion of a figure 8 to your spin while moving your arms like you are pedaling a bike.

Optional: yes you can use a heat bath to help increase the solubility of the naptha allowing it to carry more than it normally would be able to at room temperature. This can help if you are trying to maximize the saturation of each pull. Place your vessel in a bowl of warm water and replace warm water in between each time you mix. Make sure you are cracking the lid frequently to allow the pressure build up to escape. When leaving the vessel to separate I will usually leave the cap unscrewed and just have loosely on.

Also if it helps you don't have to get it in your head that It has to be 50 times exactly for mixing. I generally will mix 6-7 times (referring to the amount of times separated during the mixing process) over the course of an hour about 30 seconds to a minute each time of mixing and then go from there. That is even probably excessive in of itself but you have the right idea in making sure to fully saturate and be contacting as much bark to NPS as possible.




4. Should I wash my spice?

the idea behind a water wash is to remove excess lye contamination and if you were going to do that you want to use something with more of a tube shape to it rather than a bowl.
I haven't found water washing necessary if instead a recrystallization is performed on the crystals yielded initially. When redissolving the (possibly lye or plants particly tainted) crystals in fresh solvent, any lye or plant particles still present tend to agglomerate or even stick to the glass and are easily separated by decanting the hot dmt laden solvent into a clean precipitation container for recrystallization.
How does one recrystallize?


6. Sometimes if your NPS isn't saturated enough and your freezer doesn't get cold enough then you'll want to leave in for 24-48 hours but if you can achieve super saturation and evaporate some of the naptha off before placing in the freezer you can definitely have it crash out a lot sooner. Ideally you want your freezer to reach -18 but as I've said saturation of the solvent and the amount of solvent being used really determines the rate of precipitation. Evaporate some of your solvent off before placing in the freezer. You'll see it begin to get milky whisps running through it and this is when you know it's super saturated.

Also make sure you are placing a piece of foil over your snap cover. Naptha doesn't react with foil but will react with plastic and yes you do want to make sure its a good tight fitting snap lid so a bunch of moisture from the freezer doesn't leak in causing ice.





7. Yes you can re-use your naptha as many times as you want and it is recommended. I will pour it straight from the freezer back into my vessel and keep going till I see no more DMT coming out on the pyrex dishes however many pulls it takes them when it is done I'll put it back into the main jar it came in. Also when pulling out of the freezer make sure you allow the pyrex to drain off the rest of the large drops before turning it back to facing up. Best way to do this is to rest the pyrex dish leaning against a wall with a paper towel under it or another pyrex dish. What I like to do is get a large pyrex dish and then place the smaller dish facing down inside the larger pyrex so that the lip is resting on the inner lip of the pyrex dish making a sort of pyrex ramp.
this allows for air flow from the fan to reach up under the dish and minimizes dust and hair to that will float up into it and allow the air to not be directly blasting the spice as to accidentally send it all over the room. I will place a mini fan in front of this or an AC window unit (which AC window fan unit is ideal for eliminating problems with condensation and preferred over a mini desk fan but it that's all you got it's better than nothing).

Place your dish immediately in front of cool fan upside down to drain onto something after about 15-20 minutes of that or when you see that the bigger drops are dry you can then flip it back face up and cover it with a sheet of foil and some slits cut into the foil for air flow but so it doesn't blow your spice all around or cover with paper towel and rubber band or panty hose. I personally like working with foil best.


Then after about an hour scrape your crystals up into a pile and chop them to a powder. Do this until you achieve a nice powdered consistency and don't smell anymore naptha. After chopping once though I'll usually leave back in front of fan with a cover on for another hour then give it another chop and it's done. You'll be able to tell it's done when you can't smell any naptha anymore. Scraping and chopping while it's drying allows for trapped solvent to escape.




I don't know much about math or percentages or yields yet and I'm pretty bad about recording my own data because I genuinely believe that the 2 brain cells I have left are just dead hamsters but hey it sounds like you've been yielding pretty decent.


From my understanding if you have 100g of bark and get 1.8g back then that would be 1.8% and usually MHRB yield between 1-3% on average.
So yes judging by MHRB standard 3.8g of 300g is 1.7% yield which seems pretty good to me 🦑🌌



hopefully I could be of some help
Good luck on your journeys!

🌌🦑❤️🕉️
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for the great answer! I'll definitely tweak a few things in my method, thanks to your advices.
And I'll use the word separate from now on :p haha English is not my first language, I'll make sure to add it to my vocabulary.
Cheers!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Bas Sarkin said:
If you warm naphtha, think about:
-The boiling temperature, take a good look at what is actually in the naphtha, perhaps look up the cas-nr, some carbohydrates hydrocarbons boil at pretty low temperatures, you never want to exceed that, or the naphtha will become a gas, bubble/spray out, or even explode your vessel (if it has a lid).
-Always use warm water bath to increase the temperature, never have an open flame anywhere near your naphtha, as it very likely will burn/explode on you, and you dont have to 'touch' the flame to the naphtha to have that happen: a vessel without a lid will evaporate naphtha into the air, I think you only need 2 percent naphtha in the air in your room + one flame to go BOOM.
-ventilate properly when using naphtha, you dont want to inhale the vapours at all.
Click to expand...
Yeah safety first! ;) Thanks
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
darkdaver666 said:
Thank you so much for the great answer! I'll definitely tweak a few things in my method, thanks to your advices.
And I'll use the word separate from now on :p haha English is not my first language, I'll make sure to add it to my vocabulary.
Cheers!
Click to expand...

Hey man it's my first language and I still don't even understand it you could have fooled me! Honestly your English is great 🦑🌌
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
brokedownpalace10 said:
Looks like you did great. I'm a rank noob, myself. But if you add a little more base and let it sit for a few days, you might get a little more. Definitely warming helps. I put the bottle in a pot of water and warm it on the stove, letting it sit for a while.

So, add a little more lye, wait for reaction. Add Naptha. Invert. Warm the bottle for an hour. Invert. Let sit for a few days. Shake gently. Warm again for a while. Warming helps break emulsions. Pull. Then, maybe a Xylene pull. Xylene pulls are just evaped.
Click to expand...
Product can also be recovered from xylene without evaporation by pulling back into a bit of diluted vinegar (or other acid). The DMT passes into the acidic phase, leaving the xylene for re-use. DMT can then be recovered as freebase by adding base and treating it like another, mini, extraction. Hence : mini A/B.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Back
Top Bottom