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how best to extract the solvent
- Thread starter marlowe
- Start date
Pour out as much as you can, in your picture there's still a lot of heptane that can be poured out. Use a coffee filter if you have some DMT crystals floating. What remains can be quickly evaporated by blowing a fan at it. At room temperature it will evaporate too, but a fan is much faster.
If the yellow residue is solvent it should evaporate quickly. If it is plant matter/oils you inadvertently brought over in your extraction process you can either just live with it or consider doing a re-crystallization.
With the heat completely off yes. And the lowest fan setting, just make sure it is not blowing hard enough to dislodge the xtals
fractals4life
Titanium Teammate
I believe DMT is insoluble in VG so you need PG. Straight PG is too runny so many use 70/30 or 50/50 PG/VG.
You can also use straight PEG 400 which is thicker than PG and works for me in a sub ohm tank.
You can also use straight PEG 400 which is thicker than PG and works for me in a sub ohm tank.
Sorry, but I have two more questions. Today, with a new batch of bark, after using heptane for the first time and freezing overnight, only a tiny amount of DMT was produced, very little—maybe 0.2 ml. Was it because I didn't add enough heptane to the container? Or was there another reason? As you can see in the photo from the first post, I got a lot... and now, with a new batch, and still very little. And one last question: what's the most popular, most frequently used, and most effective method for making DMT for vaping?
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If you're using heptane, heat it up and do the pull with the extraction vessel in a hot water bath.
My recipe is to slowly dissolve 100 grams of caustic soda in 750 ml of distilled water, shaking vigorously. Then I add 100 grams of bark and shake again. The last ingredient is heptane (about 40 ml). Every 2-3 hours, I invert the jar and swirl it around. I repeat this step about five times. Then I open the jar and use a syringe to draw the heptane into a glass container and then into the freezer. Now the question is: when should I heat the heptane? After pouring it into the jar, heat the entire contents? Or should I heat the heptane itself and then pour it into the jar?
What I do is both have the entire jar warm in a water bath and the heptane hot when poured. I'm unsure whether doing only one of those would work well. The idea is that the heptane should be hot to dissolve DMT better, but if the base soup isn't hot too, the heptane will cool down very quickly.
Thank you so much for the advice. I wish you many happy trips. So, the process of heating the whole thing in water... Isn't there a risk of something exploding if the water gets too hot?
Yes if the vessel is closed while warming it up: warm it up open before adding the heptane. Also, don't heat it up too much, 40C should be enough. Don't get it even close to boiling point, because heptane's boiling point is lower than water. It should be at a temperature you can still touch without burning.
I mix it swirling for about a minute, then wait until the heptane has fully separated into a layer (10-20 minutes usually) and do it again, until I've repeated this three times. I did it with Cyb's Max Ion Tek, so the specific time for the layers to separate may be different, as the base soup has different proportions (and has salt).
Here you go! Note that it doesn't mention heating the heptane, because it's written assuming naphtha (however it does mention that heptane can be used instead): Wiki - Cyb's MAX ION Tek
n-Heptane's boiling point is 98°C, and the boiling point of the basic bark sludge can be considerably higher than 100°C. There's no need to heat it above, say, 60°C, and even at that temperature there's a high chance of ending up with a coloured, gooey product.
Higher temperatures increase the vapour pressure from all components, so it's especially important to avoid tightly sealed vessels - the pressure build-up could otherwise pop a glass container, especially if it has been weakened by contact with a strong base (the moreso the greater the degree of heating).
Take care to avoid subjecting glassware to sudden changes of temperature, particularly when using ordinary soda-glass rather than borosilicate apparatus.
Crystallisation is something that oughtn't to be hurried, and as a general rule, the slower the cooling, the bigger the crystals. If that interests you, insulate the container and use the refrigerator for a pre-chill before freezing.
