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How finely should I grind MHRB

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CopperPig

CopperPig

Rising Star
Hi.
This is my first post and first attempt to extract DMT from MHRB. I'm having difficulty to grind up some MHRB with a coffee grinder. No matter how long I keep grinding I just can't get the pure powder out of it. I'm wondering how finely ground does it have to be for successful extraction?

Here's an image of what I got so far.
 

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Personally, I like to grind up my bark in a powerful blender first, then move to a coffee grinder if the blender didn't quite cut it. It doesn't have to be 100% perfect powder because a strong base like lye does a great job of breaking down cell walls. BTW, this topic has been discussed many times:

See here
 
Thanks for the response. I'm not asking how to grind it, I did a lot of research for years. My question is more personal. I'm asking if it's ok to extract from what is seen on the image or do I have to keep grinding until it's 100% powder.
 
Sorry for quality :d . Are those fibers ok to use? Or is blender worth purchasing, I don't own one at the moment.
 
Like I mentioned above, it doesn't have to be perfectly powdered. A strong base will further break down cell walls allowing easier access to DMT.

It looks good to use to me. Cheers!
 
Id always take a sieve and seperate the powder from the fiber and keep processing the fiber till its all powder. But like The Greatful one said. If your soing STB then the lye will help break those fibers down. I always do ATB so i like my stuff as fine as i can get it
 
Another thing i do (and some more advanced chemist on here can tell me if this is wrong but i found it helps eliminate the probability of emulsions ) is let the aqueous liquid sit in a fridge over night and decant the liquid from the sediment the collects on the bottom of the jar..
 
Sasquach2112 said:
Another thing i do (and some more advanced chemist on here can tell me if this is wrong but i found it helps eliminate the probability of emulsions ) is let the aqueous liquid sit in a fridge over night and decant the liquid from the sediment the collects on the bottom of the jar..
Click to expand...

Sediment contains a lot of magic so it's very detrimental to yield.
 
The sediment im refering to is the waxes and fats that congel and drop to the bottom of the vessal. I run my aqueous liquid through a #1 filter a couple times before putting it in the fridge.
If this is effecting my yeild ill stop doing it but i found the liquid much easier to work with after doing this (keep in my my last extraction was probably 3 or more years ago)
 
Very interesting write up. I had heard that warming the basic soup brings out the yellow spice but ive never seen it confirmed (other then wondering why some of my pulls were yellow)
 
Sasquach2112 said:
Very interesting write up. I had heard that warming the basic soup brings out the yellow spice but ive never seen it confirmed (other then wondering why some of my pulls were yellow)
Click to expand...

If you are curious about the colors of DMT and what they can mean, check this out:

IMPORTANT: spice color purity fallacy AKA is your dmt ok to smoke ?

DMT is more soluble in a warm solvent like naphtha or heptane, but heating can also pull more impurities which can color the spice in different ways. A mini A/B and re-x can clean it up but sometimes the color remains.

:)
 
Sasquach2112 said:
Very interesting write up. I had heard that warming the basic soup brings out the yellow spice but ive never seen it confirmed (other then wondering why some of my pulls were yellow)
Click to expand...
If you pull with naphtha this is certainly the case, because once hot then the naphtha starts to also take on the spice-oxide. It's said that naphtha doesn't take in the oxides, but when hot it does. This besides other plant stuff that might like hot temps to play in, as TGO mentions. Old bark has the oxides imho.
 
CopperPig said:
Hi.
This is my first post and first attempt to extract DMT from MHRB. I'm having difficulty to grind up some MHRB with a coffee grinder. No matter how long I keep grinding I just can't get the pure powder out of it. I'm wondering how finely ground does it have to be for successful extraction?

Here's an image of what I got so far.
Click to expand...

Hello there! I just wanted to say grinding the bark down sometimes can be a pain and a good way to utilize the full percentage possible from the bark is to re acidify and reduce the liquid. What I mean is say you extract 50g mhrb with 450ml water and 50ml 0.5% distiller white vinegar(pH 4) you could lightly heat this in a pot for an hour and a half, strain the bark and squeeze all liquid out of the bark and put all the first acidification into another pot on higher heat and begin reducing it in volume. Then, add another fresh 450ml water and 50ml vinegar to the squeezed out bark and re acidify 1hr 30min on medium heat and repeat one or two more times then go into basifying. This makes it so you are breaking down the bark as if you were to of pulverized it down to a powder.
P.s. Before basifying always let the extraction cool completely as to not crack the glass when adding lye. Lastly, before basifying it helps to filter the cooled down extraction through coffee filters and squeeze out that thick layer of dust like material that collects at the bottom back into the extraction and trash the dried dust clump gunk. This helps later on when the naphtha is separating back with binded dmt, allowing it more easily to come back to surface.
 
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