pete666
Esteemed member
If pure mescaline is what you are after, here is technique I use. It is working and tested procedure for peruvian torch dried green tissue. But I would bet it works for other sources as well. It uses techniques used by others on DMT Nexus or elsewhere. It just pushes the cleanup a bit further and is quite detailed.
The reasons for pure mescaline are numerous. Off-white or tan-white powder still contains other chemicals. They may be/are psychoactive, but for many, they just make mescaline experience worse. Some people are using MAOI (moclobemide, harmala, ..) and purity here is a must. Another reason might be just aesthetical. Not a big deal when ingesting orally, but for rectal ROA the powder has to be dissolved in water and even almost white powder can turn into dark brown when in contact with water. Injecting this is much less desirable than pure white liquid. And of course, any impurity affects dosage. Last but not least, mescaline is a tool. And purity of tool can influence the result.
Salting phase of mescaline extraction calls for pH 7 for the most pure results. Unfortunately this pH is not low enough for all mescaline to transfer from np into water. We should target for pH 5,5. But with lower pH, more impurities find the way into water too. But even with pH 7, result likely won't be pure mescaline. I prefer targeting pH 5,5 with proper purification later.
This procedure contains two other techniques : mescaline wash by acetone/IPA/MEK and activated charcoal purification. Unfortunately re-x of mescaline HCl (unlike sulphate) is quite tricky and because of that it is not used. I wish we had something like heptane for dmt re-x here!
After wash with dry/freezing solvent mix, the result is off-white or white mescaline. Nice, but there are still impurities (although invisible) within the molecular latice. I would estimate about 20% of impurities is still there. We need to dissolve it in water and remove while liquid - we use activated charcoal. Expect about 8% loss due to the activated charcoal purification
I strongly suggest using proper glassware, lab-grade chemicals and filters if possible.
*************************
EDIT : endlessness was kind to arrange analysis of products of this procedure (thanks a lot), here are the results (source - dried chips from reputable Peru source, STB + cleanup) ...
1- Raw Mescaline (result of STB + back-salting) - 77% mescaline
2- Washed Mescaline - 85% mescaline
3- Washed remains - 26% mescaline
4- Washed + activated charcoal - 94% mescaline
5- Washed + activated charcoal + re-x - 95% mescaline
*************************
The procedure:
After salting and evaporation, we get result of various quality on the dish. How to purify it?
1. Scrape the result and break it AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE with mortar and pestle. It has to be the finest powder. The finer, the less activated charcoal will be necessary later
2. Put it into oven at 80C for few hours. Mescaline HCl is very heat-stable, it can be there for very long time without any problem. Break by pestle every 15 minutes as it is drying
3. Optional but highly suggested - put it into small paper envelope and place the envelope within small air-tight container with bottom full of dry MgSO4 (dried epsom salt) for few days(1 day is ok, 3 days are better). We want to get rid of any water, as it causes lower yields
4. Prepare mix of dry! acetone, dry! IPA and dry! MEK (ratio 1:1:1). Mix properly and put it into freezer for a day. MEK is not necessary, but tone and IPA yes. I use all. Any water in this solution leads to lower yields
5. Optional - prepare your environment. We need low temperature and low humidity of the air. Freezing solvent mix can (and will) absorb water from the air, so we want to avoid it as much as possible. Air-cond running on max for half day is a way how to achieve it.
6. Use round bottom evaporating dish with spout of proper size (mescaline + solvent should be 1/3 - 1/2 of the volume of the dish). Put there dry mescaline powder.
7. Pour enough mix from step 4 to cover the mescaline. The volume is not very important, it may be more. Use pestle to mix it for about a minute or two.
9. Tilt the dish to one side and leave for few minutes to settle. Then lean slowly to the opposite side, so solvent moves but settled mescaline doesn't. Use glass pipette with rubber bulb or eye dropper to remove the solvent. Remove as much solvent as possible. Pour removed solvent through funnel with proper paper filter (grade 3 - particle size 6µm) or enough cotton.
10. Repeat steps 7-10 until solvent is almost clear. Usually about 3-5 washes are enough
11. Pour as much solvent as possible out of the dish through the filter
(Solvent can be evaporated to yield oily dark mix of other alkaloids. Active at about 150mg for peruvian torch)
12. Dry the dish with mescaline - put the dish in a warm/hot bath (60-80C) for half an hour and then put the dish and the funnel/filter paper into an oven at 80C for an hour
13. Dissolve mescaline from dish and filter/cotton in distilled water and put into beaker. I use about 10ml of water for each gram of mescaline.
14. Add activated charcoal powder - I usually use 5% of the weight of the mescaline. Be careful, you don't want to have activated charcoal anywhere else than in it's container, on the spoon, in the beaker or later in the filter. It is almost impossible to get it out of most surfaces! However, it is quite easy to work with when done with caution. If you don't use powder, you have to adjust the amount. But be careful, too much charcoal means bigger loss. It is much better to add the charcoal incrementally, mix few minutes, let settle and check the color than to use too much at once and lose the precious medicine
15. Put into hot/boiling bath (90-100C), let get hot and mix for about 15 minutes
16. Pour everything through the funnel with paper filter(grade 1 - particle size 11µm) or cotton
17. When the filter is empty, pour another pure hot water through it to get last traces of mescaline. Discard filter with charcoal
18. Evaporate water
19. Enjoy with humbleness
Comments:
Always bear in mind - Water is our enemy in the washing process. Everything (air, glass, tools, hands, solvents, source mescaline material) has to be without any water. Water means losses.
Step 4 : The drying process is the same for all 3 solvents
Step 7 : Keep the solvent in the freezer as much as possible
Step 9 : We don't mind warmer solvent while waiting for settling down, we are not mixing it, so it is not dissolving our precious medicine.
Use filter rather than cotton, you may lose the goodies
Step 10 : No problem with doing more washes. If done properly, the loss is minimal
Step 12 : Many people can stop here. The product is almost white. The impurities are hidden in the molecular latice and almost invisible.
Step 14 : You can use any activated charcoal, it doesn't have to be powderized
Step 15 : If you remove it from heat source, so it is not boiling and wait a minute or two, it will clear up. You can see whether purity is as desired. If not, mix or add a bit more of charcoal
Step 16 : If unsure, try it first just with water and charcoal so you get practice
The reasons for pure mescaline are numerous. Off-white or tan-white powder still contains other chemicals. They may be/are psychoactive, but for many, they just make mescaline experience worse. Some people are using MAOI (moclobemide, harmala, ..) and purity here is a must. Another reason might be just aesthetical. Not a big deal when ingesting orally, but for rectal ROA the powder has to be dissolved in water and even almost white powder can turn into dark brown when in contact with water. Injecting this is much less desirable than pure white liquid. And of course, any impurity affects dosage. Last but not least, mescaline is a tool. And purity of tool can influence the result.
Salting phase of mescaline extraction calls for pH 7 for the most pure results. Unfortunately this pH is not low enough for all mescaline to transfer from np into water. We should target for pH 5,5. But with lower pH, more impurities find the way into water too. But even with pH 7, result likely won't be pure mescaline. I prefer targeting pH 5,5 with proper purification later.
This procedure contains two other techniques : mescaline wash by acetone/IPA/MEK and activated charcoal purification. Unfortunately re-x of mescaline HCl (unlike sulphate) is quite tricky and because of that it is not used. I wish we had something like heptane for dmt re-x here!
After wash with dry/freezing solvent mix, the result is off-white or white mescaline. Nice, but there are still impurities (although invisible) within the molecular latice. I would estimate about 20% of impurities is still there. We need to dissolve it in water and remove while liquid - we use activated charcoal. Expect about 8% loss due to the activated charcoal purification
I strongly suggest using proper glassware, lab-grade chemicals and filters if possible.
*************************
EDIT : endlessness was kind to arrange analysis of products of this procedure (thanks a lot), here are the results (source - dried chips from reputable Peru source, STB + cleanup) ...
1- Raw Mescaline (result of STB + back-salting) - 77% mescaline
2- Washed Mescaline - 85% mescaline
3- Washed remains - 26% mescaline
4- Washed + activated charcoal - 94% mescaline
5- Washed + activated charcoal + re-x - 95% mescaline
*************************
The procedure:
After salting and evaporation, we get result of various quality on the dish. How to purify it?
1. Scrape the result and break it AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE with mortar and pestle. It has to be the finest powder. The finer, the less activated charcoal will be necessary later
2. Put it into oven at 80C for few hours. Mescaline HCl is very heat-stable, it can be there for very long time without any problem. Break by pestle every 15 minutes as it is drying
3. Optional but highly suggested - put it into small paper envelope and place the envelope within small air-tight container with bottom full of dry MgSO4 (dried epsom salt) for few days(1 day is ok, 3 days are better). We want to get rid of any water, as it causes lower yields
4. Prepare mix of dry! acetone, dry! IPA and dry! MEK (ratio 1:1:1). Mix properly and put it into freezer for a day. MEK is not necessary, but tone and IPA yes. I use all. Any water in this solution leads to lower yields
5. Optional - prepare your environment. We need low temperature and low humidity of the air. Freezing solvent mix can (and will) absorb water from the air, so we want to avoid it as much as possible. Air-cond running on max for half day is a way how to achieve it.
6. Use round bottom evaporating dish with spout of proper size (mescaline + solvent should be 1/3 - 1/2 of the volume of the dish). Put there dry mescaline powder.
7. Pour enough mix from step 4 to cover the mescaline. The volume is not very important, it may be more. Use pestle to mix it for about a minute or two.
9. Tilt the dish to one side and leave for few minutes to settle. Then lean slowly to the opposite side, so solvent moves but settled mescaline doesn't. Use glass pipette with rubber bulb or eye dropper to remove the solvent. Remove as much solvent as possible. Pour removed solvent through funnel with proper paper filter (grade 3 - particle size 6µm) or enough cotton.
10. Repeat steps 7-10 until solvent is almost clear. Usually about 3-5 washes are enough
11. Pour as much solvent as possible out of the dish through the filter
(Solvent can be evaporated to yield oily dark mix of other alkaloids. Active at about 150mg for peruvian torch)
12. Dry the dish with mescaline - put the dish in a warm/hot bath (60-80C) for half an hour and then put the dish and the funnel/filter paper into an oven at 80C for an hour
13. Dissolve mescaline from dish and filter/cotton in distilled water and put into beaker. I use about 10ml of water for each gram of mescaline.
14. Add activated charcoal powder - I usually use 5% of the weight of the mescaline. Be careful, you don't want to have activated charcoal anywhere else than in it's container, on the spoon, in the beaker or later in the filter. It is almost impossible to get it out of most surfaces! However, it is quite easy to work with when done with caution. If you don't use powder, you have to adjust the amount. But be careful, too much charcoal means bigger loss. It is much better to add the charcoal incrementally, mix few minutes, let settle and check the color than to use too much at once and lose the precious medicine
15. Put into hot/boiling bath (90-100C), let get hot and mix for about 15 minutes
16. Pour everything through the funnel with paper filter(grade 1 - particle size 11µm) or cotton
17. When the filter is empty, pour another pure hot water through it to get last traces of mescaline. Discard filter with charcoal
18. Evaporate water
19. Enjoy with humbleness
Comments:
Always bear in mind - Water is our enemy in the washing process. Everything (air, glass, tools, hands, solvents, source mescaline material) has to be without any water. Water means losses.
Step 4 : The drying process is the same for all 3 solvents
Step 7 : Keep the solvent in the freezer as much as possible
Step 9 : We don't mind warmer solvent while waiting for settling down, we are not mixing it, so it is not dissolving our precious medicine.
Use filter rather than cotton, you may lose the goodies
Step 10 : No problem with doing more washes. If done properly, the loss is minimal
Step 12 : Many people can stop here. The product is almost white. The impurities are hidden in the molecular latice and almost invisible.
Step 14 : You can use any activated charcoal, it doesn't have to be powderized
Step 15 : If you remove it from heat source, so it is not boiling and wait a minute or two, it will clear up. You can see whether purity is as desired. If not, mix or add a bit more of charcoal
Step 16 : If unsure, try it first just with water and charcoal so you get practice
I find your posts very well written as well - probably even better for non-experienced people compared to my posts. So please don't take the following points personal. 