NeitherHere
Lucid dreamer, clusterhead, and librarian
For the last few years I've been working with Vietnamese mitragyna Speciosa. From here on refered to as simply MS or KRATOM.
Below is one of my mother plants in overwinter storage in the lab. She's not thrilled about the conditions but she's been incredibly tolerant
This tree started as a 6" cutting from the dying mother this last winter. In one year it's grown incredibly fast. The branches reaching out almost 2 feet in either direction. Forgive the mess, I'm going through a lot with my health right now and haven't had the opportunity to clean the lab space.
I have killed countless cuts and almost lost the mother plant last winter to animal stress. Damn cat loves to piss in pots. But I digress. Here is some of my hard learned experience, suggestions, and my personal preferred preparation method of MS.
Mitragyna Speciosa is a perennial evergreen indigenous to Indonesia, burma, Thailand, Vietnam, and surrounding countries. It grows in subtropical conditions in nature, often being found in big land environments or outright swamps. These trees are extreme feeders. I have yet to over feed one. I can feed every week or every two weeks. They absolutely NEED high nitrogen content, humidity and flowing air, plenty of light, and they prefer to be flooded vs being dry.
The absolute fastest way to kill an MS treeis to let its roots dry out. I'm not exaggerating when I say you can't drown them but you can kill the with thirst. They are tolerant of not getting enough nitrogen for s while but they will protest if neglected for too long.
For the fun details. I prefer to pot in legitimately 100% composted manure. You'd think it wouldn't work but it does, rather well I might add. When I plant a rooted cut I tend to plant it on top of a pile of sardines (canned in water, do not use canned In oil or with salt. You must only use "canned in water) this material decays and breaks down as a long term feed giving the roots ample access to moisture and food while establishing the root system across the pot.
These trees will grow in pots but they must be given adequate space, the bigger the better and preferably this pot will have ZERO drainage. Usually I like to top the medium within with cococoir and cubensis grains (I get "outdoor" flushes throughout fall and winter because they have similair needs outdoors) OR I'll use straw but the straw must be boiled to kill any seed that may compete with the trees root system.
Feeding these trees is simple. Nitrogen. Nitrogen nitrogen nitrogen. Don't forget minerals and potassium etc. they are tolerant of acidic soil so every year I might toss a bit of wettable sulfer in solution in the pot to lower ph a bit as rainforest and subtropical areas tend to be acidic.
In summary;
Big pot
Lots of water
Lots of nitrogen
Plenty of sunshine
Bring it inside below 40f
Take it back outside after first frost
Full spectrum lights are your friend. As you can see this tree is getting light from a seeding rack and overhead fan lamp.
Keep your humidity relatively high but keep in mind that you can induce WPM and other fungal infections, how ever you treat these conditions please bear in mind it must be EDIBLE and safe for humans.
Keep your air flowing.
Over all they're simple. Love them and they will treat you well.
Now for the production aspects.
When harvting your leaf make sure you got largest to smallest leaves taking damaged leaves first.
This offers your tree to the ability to divert resources to new growth.
When you pull your leaves try to gently twist and if you must pull, pull upwards. Pulling down towards the roots will cause you to strip the bark like a hang nail increasing chances for infections. If you use a tool make sure you use a sterilized blade and a clean segment of the blade for every cut so as not to unwittingly introduce infections.
Once you have your leaf you will want to rinse it thoroughly. I promote arachnid activity in my trees. This acts as a symbiotic relationship between me, the tree, and the spiders. We all win. The spider gets to eat. The tree goes unharmed by pests, and I get to use the mature leaves because of it.
One best to be mindful of is caterpillars. Especially ones that eat tomatoes. They are absolutely detrimental and have stripped my trees in a matter of days. They tend to blend in with the leaves and hide on the bottom usually eating my trees at night.
A good hot rinse rods you of any concerning issues in this regard. I prefer to ringer and finger scrub twice to be sure.
Once you have harvested and cleaned the leaves you can dry them to consume as powder although I dissaprove of this method especially consuming raw powder by itself because it has a propensity for causing lung infections if accidentally inhaled and kratom powder can go down as a hydrophobic clump meaning your first breath could be nothing but lla t matter being launched deep into your lungs... Ask me how I know...
My preferred method of ingestion is outlined below
Take your fresh cleaned leaves or powder and add them to half a liter of water or less depending on intended dosage and need for speed.
I like to blend mine up
Place this blended or whole leave water to a pot. Personally I prefer ceramic pots but any kind tolerant to acid is fine.
I add a small volume of lemon juice or other food grade acid.maybe a table spoons per half liter. Just enough to faintly smell in the steam
Put the pot on medium high heat. A low boil should come.
Boil this acidic tea for 20 minutes.
Once the tea has boiled for 20 minutes strain it through a coffee filter and you can consume it now if you wish but it's an acquired taste.
If you wish to follow me along to my actual end goal then continue reading.
Here is post reduction of the tea above
You will take your filtered tea, add it back to the pot, back on to medium high heat and you reduce this liquid down further. Be mindful of dosage. I prefer half ounce per dose of using this liquid OR I will reduce it until it goes visibly thick. Be careful as you approach 2 Fl oz as it evaporated quickly and you can scorch/ ruin ALL of your tea beyond usage. Once you reach 2 fl oz or lower I recommend lowering thr heat all the way down and babysitting it OR adding kt to a small glass baking dish and putting it kn a dehydrator overnight on low heat.
If you find your tea has become a dry powder stuck to the glass then fear not. Put one or two drops of clean water on it, spread it about the kratom extract, and add gentle heat. It should come up with a razor and produce a tar like substance.
To gauge dosages take your initial weight of kratom and divide by your end product. If you take 3 grams per dose and you started with 30 and ended with 3 then each gram is 10x if I'm not mistaken. Honestly I have an altitude about my consumption so I don't bother much with the math.
This tar substance can be consumed by itself or in gelatin capsules. I suggest making weighed pellets.
. Unfortunately I don't have images of the final solid concentrate and won't for some time but I will update this post when I do finally make more.
With this methodology I've gone from taking fist fills of powder capsules to a single capsule of concentrate.
To potentiate this product you can consume any drink containing phosphoric acid before and during ingestion as this breaks it down further and helps it absorb. I prefer coca cola but Dr pepper also works although at a weaker strength in my opinion.
Should you experience constipation one can use dried prunes. Prune juice. Or prune candy.
I got this idea from the Indonesians, they call this method "4x400" but they add cough suppressant syrup as well which I don't condone for obvious reasons.
Be safe
Be responsible
And please remember that this is a habit forming substance that can lead to addiction when abused.
Treat MS with care and respect and you will see miracles if you're a pain patient like myself.
Please be keep in mind that I have a learning disorder and that typos and erratic speech are not only something that is possible but more than likely in my contributions. I strive to produce high quality posts but they may need work in the long term. Thank you for your time.
Best of wishes.
Love,
~NeitherHere
Below is one of my mother plants in overwinter storage in the lab. She's not thrilled about the conditions but she's been incredibly tolerant
This tree started as a 6" cutting from the dying mother this last winter. In one year it's grown incredibly fast. The branches reaching out almost 2 feet in either direction. Forgive the mess, I'm going through a lot with my health right now and haven't had the opportunity to clean the lab space.
I have killed countless cuts and almost lost the mother plant last winter to animal stress. Damn cat loves to piss in pots. But I digress. Here is some of my hard learned experience, suggestions, and my personal preferred preparation method of MS.
Mitragyna Speciosa is a perennial evergreen indigenous to Indonesia, burma, Thailand, Vietnam, and surrounding countries. It grows in subtropical conditions in nature, often being found in big land environments or outright swamps. These trees are extreme feeders. I have yet to over feed one. I can feed every week or every two weeks. They absolutely NEED high nitrogen content, humidity and flowing air, plenty of light, and they prefer to be flooded vs being dry.
The absolute fastest way to kill an MS treeis to let its roots dry out. I'm not exaggerating when I say you can't drown them but you can kill the with thirst. They are tolerant of not getting enough nitrogen for s while but they will protest if neglected for too long.
For the fun details. I prefer to pot in legitimately 100% composted manure. You'd think it wouldn't work but it does, rather well I might add. When I plant a rooted cut I tend to plant it on top of a pile of sardines (canned in water, do not use canned In oil or with salt. You must only use "canned in water) this material decays and breaks down as a long term feed giving the roots ample access to moisture and food while establishing the root system across the pot.
These trees will grow in pots but they must be given adequate space, the bigger the better and preferably this pot will have ZERO drainage. Usually I like to top the medium within with cococoir and cubensis grains (I get "outdoor" flushes throughout fall and winter because they have similair needs outdoors) OR I'll use straw but the straw must be boiled to kill any seed that may compete with the trees root system.
Feeding these trees is simple. Nitrogen. Nitrogen nitrogen nitrogen. Don't forget minerals and potassium etc. they are tolerant of acidic soil so every year I might toss a bit of wettable sulfer in solution in the pot to lower ph a bit as rainforest and subtropical areas tend to be acidic.
In summary;
Big pot
Lots of water
Lots of nitrogen
Plenty of sunshine
Bring it inside below 40f
Take it back outside after first frost
Full spectrum lights are your friend. As you can see this tree is getting light from a seeding rack and overhead fan lamp.
Keep your humidity relatively high but keep in mind that you can induce WPM and other fungal infections, how ever you treat these conditions please bear in mind it must be EDIBLE and safe for humans.
Keep your air flowing.
Over all they're simple. Love them and they will treat you well.
Now for the production aspects.
When harvting your leaf make sure you got largest to smallest leaves taking damaged leaves first.
This offers your tree to the ability to divert resources to new growth.
When you pull your leaves try to gently twist and if you must pull, pull upwards. Pulling down towards the roots will cause you to strip the bark like a hang nail increasing chances for infections. If you use a tool make sure you use a sterilized blade and a clean segment of the blade for every cut so as not to unwittingly introduce infections.
Once you have your leaf you will want to rinse it thoroughly. I promote arachnid activity in my trees. This acts as a symbiotic relationship between me, the tree, and the spiders. We all win. The spider gets to eat. The tree goes unharmed by pests, and I get to use the mature leaves because of it.
One best to be mindful of is caterpillars. Especially ones that eat tomatoes. They are absolutely detrimental and have stripped my trees in a matter of days. They tend to blend in with the leaves and hide on the bottom usually eating my trees at night.
A good hot rinse rods you of any concerning issues in this regard. I prefer to ringer and finger scrub twice to be sure.
Once you have harvested and cleaned the leaves you can dry them to consume as powder although I dissaprove of this method especially consuming raw powder by itself because it has a propensity for causing lung infections if accidentally inhaled and kratom powder can go down as a hydrophobic clump meaning your first breath could be nothing but lla t matter being launched deep into your lungs... Ask me how I know...
My preferred method of ingestion is outlined below
Take your fresh cleaned leaves or powder and add them to half a liter of water or less depending on intended dosage and need for speed.
I like to blend mine up
Place this blended or whole leave water to a pot. Personally I prefer ceramic pots but any kind tolerant to acid is fine.
I add a small volume of lemon juice or other food grade acid.maybe a table spoons per half liter. Just enough to faintly smell in the steam
Put the pot on medium high heat. A low boil should come.
Boil this acidic tea for 20 minutes.
Once the tea has boiled for 20 minutes strain it through a coffee filter and you can consume it now if you wish but it's an acquired taste.
If you wish to follow me along to my actual end goal then continue reading.
Here is post reduction of the tea above
You will take your filtered tea, add it back to the pot, back on to medium high heat and you reduce this liquid down further. Be mindful of dosage. I prefer half ounce per dose of using this liquid OR I will reduce it until it goes visibly thick. Be careful as you approach 2 Fl oz as it evaporated quickly and you can scorch/ ruin ALL of your tea beyond usage. Once you reach 2 fl oz or lower I recommend lowering thr heat all the way down and babysitting it OR adding kt to a small glass baking dish and putting it kn a dehydrator overnight on low heat.
If you find your tea has become a dry powder stuck to the glass then fear not. Put one or two drops of clean water on it, spread it about the kratom extract, and add gentle heat. It should come up with a razor and produce a tar like substance.
To gauge dosages take your initial weight of kratom and divide by your end product. If you take 3 grams per dose and you started with 30 and ended with 3 then each gram is 10x if I'm not mistaken. Honestly I have an altitude about my consumption so I don't bother much with the math.
This tar substance can be consumed by itself or in gelatin capsules. I suggest making weighed pellets.
. Unfortunately I don't have images of the final solid concentrate and won't for some time but I will update this post when I do finally make more.
With this methodology I've gone from taking fist fills of powder capsules to a single capsule of concentrate.
To potentiate this product you can consume any drink containing phosphoric acid before and during ingestion as this breaks it down further and helps it absorb. I prefer coca cola but Dr pepper also works although at a weaker strength in my opinion.
Should you experience constipation one can use dried prunes. Prune juice. Or prune candy.
I got this idea from the Indonesians, they call this method "4x400" but they add cough suppressant syrup as well which I don't condone for obvious reasons.
Be safe
Be responsible
And please remember that this is a habit forming substance that can lead to addiction when abused.
Treat MS with care and respect and you will see miracles if you're a pain patient like myself.
Please be keep in mind that I have a learning disorder and that typos and erratic speech are not only something that is possible but more than likely in my contributions. I strive to produce high quality posts but they may need work in the long term. Thank you for your time.
Best of wishes.
Love,
~NeitherHere