starways..[evaporation and plant oil pour off method]

[starway6]

Ok...I have done this enough to know it works well...
This tek method is using [acid boiling step] from thicklights tek... and ....
[salt ..heating and cooling steps from Cybs salt tek...


Take 100 grams of acacia confusa bark grinding it fine as posible [finer the better]..and place the bark in large stainles steel pot...

Add enough filtered water to cover bark material an inch or more above bark..

Add 120ml white vinegar and 40 grams of iodide free salt to pot of bark..

Bring pot to rapid boil.. then reduce heat to medium boil for atleast 40 minutes to an hour ocasionaly stirring agitating contents...

As pot boils it will be nessasery to add more water to keep desired level..

Observe the color of the liquid as it will get darker and thicker as it removes contents of bark...

After atleast 40 minutes shut off stove and using a large glass jar or bottle place funnel in top then place metal mesh filter in funnel...

Then take pot with first acid boil and slowly pour liquid into filter screen funnel combo..

After most of liquid goes into bottle.. then spoon wet bark pulp into screen and with metal spoon press downward forcing remaining liquid into bottle through filter...

Do this till all the bark from first acid boil is dry of most liquid..

Then return all bark back into pot.. add.. water...vinegar...salt and repeat till you have done atleast three or four more acid boils colecting all alcaloid rich liquid in large jar..

By the 4th or 5th acid boil you should notice that the liquid has much less color in it meaning the bark has released most of its goodies...

Take fiberous bark material and put it in seperate container to be later disposed of.. if it is truly spent..

Now...take all the liquid colected from 4 or 5 acid boils and put it in stainless steel pot and by heating ..reduce its volume.. then stop reducing when the remaining liquid fits into a quart glass vinegar bottle about half way up..leaving plenty space for adding ..lye.. salt..and napatha

Now that all your reduced acid boil liquid is in one quart glass vinegar bottle half way up ..you can add about only 60 grams or less of lye because most of bark material is gone alowing lye easier penatration into liquid extracted from bark..

Also add about 30 grams of salt to base mix..and I add about 50 or more ml of napatha ..more napatha will hold more product..its your choice..

Now shake the base mix for about 10 minutes it will be getting pretty hot then sit down and let it cool.

Prepare some heated water..[hot water bath] and slowly lower vinegar bottle with base mix into water gradually alowing glass to heat up slowly [to prevent glass from cracking]..then remove base mix bottle and shake it and lower into hot water bath .....
[again and ..again!] making shure all napatha has contacted the base mix..continue this it content gets fairly hot..then shut off stove and sit base bottle down alowing napatha layer to seperate compleatly from black liquid below..

Now take your first napatha pull putting it in clean small jar...

Repeate the heated water bath step atleast ..[three or four more times]..adding more napatha each time before baths..colecting all pulls into one jar.. to get enough napatha rich solvent that will later saturate easily when it gets reduced by fan...

Now that you have done 3 or 4 napatha pulls..empty the total pulls into glass pyrex dish and position fan air flow onto it as close as posible...set speed on high...
[i used a small high speed computer fan running on 12 volts] but any fan will work..

You should notice that the napatha is turning a milky color as the air hits it..and as soon as the napatha has reduced 50 percent or less there should be ceystals forming all around the sides of glass and across bottom of dish ..[if solvent is saturated enough]

Continue reducing napatha till 75 or 80 percent reduced and by then most of crystals should be in place on bottom and sides of evaporation dish..[this is good sign!]

Now with most of the napatha evaporated.. remove fan and pour off the liquid remaining because it should contain most of the plant oils and fats into seperate jar...

Now quickly turn extraction dish upward alowing remaining napatha to drain downward into a plate then quickly position fan close as posible in front of dish that should be full of of a very dense covering crystals..

The drying process should be quick about 10 minutes or less..

After drying... scrape a very dry easy to handle crystiline white powder from dish that may looke like white flour or take on a salt like apearence..

These crystals are very active and should be able to take ..[much more heat!].. durring storage than freeze percipitated crystals that can melt when exposed to a raise in temperature ..

This tek is mainly for acacia but might work to make freez percipitated crystals more resistant to heat..after re crystalization and plant oil pour off...

This method works for me... and the only thing i added to this tek was the idea of plant oil pour off which seems to do the trick reducing acacia of its goo...

Doing this or any extraction should involve safty equipment such as gloves..eye protection..and resperator if needed....

To see results of this tek go to ...extraction paths...thread..
[dry snow white crystal powder from acacia!] and see photos of product...
I hope this helps...

 

[Entheogenerator]

These crystals are very active and should be able to take ..[much more heat!].. durring storage than freeze percipitated crystals that can melt when exposed to a raise in temperature ..

I don't understand what you mean by this. I have never heard of actual DMT crystals that would melt at room temperature, unless they contained NMT as well. The method which is used to precipitate DMT will have no effect on its temperature stability.

Freeze precipitation will precip all of the DMT from the solvent, whereas room-temperature precipitation will only precipitate some. If there is NMT in the nonpolar solvent, it will precipitate at a much lower temperature than DMT, so this process would precipitate all the NMT and some of the DMT, while leaving some of the DMT in the solvent. Thick-Light's tek demonstrates this pretty well.

 

[starway6]

These crystals are very active and should be able to take ..[much more heat!].. durring storage than freeze percipitated crystals that can melt when exposed to a raise in temperature ..

I don't understand what you mean by this. I have never heard of actual DMT crystals that would melt at room temperature, unless they contained NMT as well. The method which is used to precipitate DMT will have no effect on its temperature stability.

Freeze precipitation will precip all of the DMT from the solvent, whereas room-temperature precipitation will only precipitate some. If there is NMT in the nonpolar solvent, it will precipitate at a much lower temperature than DMT, so this process would precipitate all the NMT and some of the DMT, while leaving some of the DMT in the solvent. Thick-Light's tek demonstrates this pretty well.

Im talking about acacia..but also going by my results at freez percipatating mimosa crystals in past...
I dont mean at room temp like 60 to 70 degrees ..
I mean higher temps above 70 degrees.. as i believe my evaporated crystals have less plant oils in them making them near salt dry...
What im seeing of my crystals are .,dryer crystals.. because of pouring off most of the plant oils while evaporating...
Ive found in past ..[acacia total evaporations]..[leaving total spectrum goo].. that there was often areas in the goo that was yellow and in those areas the goo was thicker and more waxy..
This tells me.. that much of the plant oils seem to remain in the solvent untill the last of the solvent is evaporated...
[I have tested this theory several times].. after pouring off the last 20 percent of solvent..
The last 20 percent of solvent was always oily and waxy!
The crystals were much dryer like a powder after the pour off.....

So I find that If I were to pour off the last 20 percent of the solvent [as its evaporating]i can keep ..[most of the plant oils from setteling into the crystals..

Most waxyness in my evaporated crystals seems absent in my product leaving me with a very easy to handle fine crystaline product that should resist a higher temp than freezer crystals ...
Just an opinion I think that freezer crystals absorb more plant oils because of the time being in freezer...my product gets rid of most of oils very quickly by early the pour off and evaporated dry fast...
My crystals will melt if [ temp is high enough ] but I think they will withstand a higer temp than freezer crystals will melt at...
This only what ive seen so far im not trying to get into any dispute im only sharing my findings...

 

[--Shadow]

Why not just do a defat and save your naptha?

 

[starway6]

Why not just do a defat and save your naptha?

I dont think defating would remove this much plant oils ..and besides its easier and faster than defatting and removes more oils from acacia leaving A dry product is easy to handle and store...

 

[Entheogenerator]

DMT is DMT, and DMT melts somewhere between 110°F and 155°F (there are some conflicting reports). If it is melting at a lower temperature than that, it is definitely contaminated with another alkaloid or substance.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're doing here, but DMT is very soluble in naphtha and plant fats/oils/NMT are only slightly soluble. So precipitating at room temperature would leave behind some DMT, and all the other stuff. Some of the DMT will still be left in the solvent.

A defat would absolutely remove the plant oils, if you are saying they are soluble in naphtha. Defatting is similar to the concept you are describing, but much easier. It is as simple as doing one relatively large naphtha pull on the solution before basifying. This simple step will remove anything that is not an alkaloid but is soluble in naphtha (i.e. the plant fats/oils you claim to be removing).

 

[starway6]

DMT is DMT, and DMT melts somewhere between 110°F and 155°F (there are some conflicting reports). If it is melting at a lower temperature than that, it is definitely contaminated with another alkaloid or substance.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're doing here, but DMT is very soluble in naphtha and plant fats/oils/NMT are only slightly soluble. So precipitating at room temperature would leave behind some DMT, and all the other stuff. Some of the DMT will still be left in the solvent.

A defat would absolutely remove the plant oils, if you are saying they are soluble in naphtha. Defatting is similar to the concept you are describing, but much easier. It is as simple as doing one relatively large naphtha pull on the solution before basifying. This simple step will remove anything that is not an alkaloid but is soluble in naphtha (i.e. the plant fats/oils you claim to be removing).

De fatting is something i should have tryed but just lazy and skiped it...

Besides..Ive read that de fatting probibly doesnt remove all fats and oils..

And now that i found a way to get this done in even less time by simply pouring off the last 20 percent of un evaporated napatha ...It works for me..

I wish I could show you the dry crystiline powder im getting ..!!:d

I think you would then understand why im happy with the final product from acacia...

Ive also vaped this stuff and its quite potent..

Im also happy with its ease of handling..it can be fine like white flour or salt..

I noticed that if stored in plastic zip lock bag some of it sticks to sides of plastic bag a little ..but doesnt melt or lump up ..

I took no chemistry in school.. im just using common sense and observation from my many atempts with acacia and found out that much of the plant oils remain in last 20 percent of the evaporating napatha ..so just pour it off into another jar..

Then tip crystal dish upright.. slanting a little downward alowing remaining napatha to drain downwards and quickly place fan in front of dish...5 or 10 minutes later super dry powdery crystals...simple..

Any doubts about purity?..then re crystalize..by re desolving powder and evaporate again and pour off remaining 20 percent and there it it maybe a little cleaner..

Doing things by the book is good!.. but sometimes we learn things by simple observation..

This method is easy to do.. if you have time try it and see the end product you may like it..
Try this method i would like to hear your opinion...:thumb_up: