The direct e-mesh thread.

[Transform]

Hello all.
I am very grateful for your time and for your advices. Thank you.

I am a total newbie at this. Scared shitless but I see the point. I want to be part of this world. It's decided.

I smoked changa twice in a way that I can say I have seen things and participated in things, but I have never had a breakthrough. Smoked a few more times but small doses, because alone and because, you know.

So from what I understand, emesh is THE WAY. (does not take off his helmet*)

I have ordered Mesh Pro RDA clones from Wish and Aliexpress just to be sure. My hands don't grow out of my ass, so I will definitely dismount and retouch the contacts to have perfect shape and contact surface, I will treat the o-rings as needed, that's all good (If they don't bust on me when I open it for the first time).

It's the choice of the MOD itself that I need your help with.

View attachment 101450


I have seen the list on this forum, it's a bit outdated, models referred there are so old they are impossible to find online.

DMT is super rare and super expensive here, so I don't have a kilo just to get the hang of the watts/suction/airflow ratios. I would rather buy a more appropriate mod than making a cheap one work. Also, I want it to be newbie-friendly for possible trips for friends. I mean, a gram of DMT is more expensive than ANY mod here.

I need a temperature controlled mod, one that will never fail to break through. BTW, is this true, is TC a better method than just heating at 17W or so?

From what I understand, Geekvape is the truly hyperspace-ready material.

So these are the models I have access to:

Geekvape Aegis Legend 3 200W
Geekvape Aegis Touch T200
Geekvape Aegis Legend 3 200W
Geek Vape Aegis Legend 2 L200
Geek Vape Aegis Legend 2 L200 Classic
Geekvape Aegis Solo 3 (100W)
Geek Vape Aegis Solo 2 S100

Are any of these good?
If yes, then which is the best choice for me?
If no, then what should I be looking for?

Thank you. I mean it. I value your intentions and your honesty.

Hi there and welcome!

I'm as daunted by all this as you are, but I reckon any one of those 200 watters should do the job. Try to go for the one that has the best display and configurability, but tbh there are others who know far more about this than me.

For a more real-time discussion of your questions, why not check out our chat?

One more thing, you'll be far better off if you can start extracting your own DMT. For one thing, we don't talk about purchasing here, and for another, you'd be removing a lot of unknowns, sketchiness and potential danger of various kinds that way.

 

[fractals4life]

Temperature Control is great if it behaves... it can be foiled by bad connections between the mod and the RDA, or the RDA and the mesh, because it relies on measuring small changes in the already small resistance of the mesh as it heats up. I can't speak for the ability of the models you list to keep this accurate, I'm afraid. Hopefuly others can.

Power mode should be straightforward to implement, and tolerant of resistance changes ( measure the amps, vary the volts so volts x amps = whatever power you have it set to ) but relies on you having a consistent toke rate to dial it in ( constant power delivers heat energy at a constant rate, the temperature achieved depends on how fast your breath draws that energy away ). So try to practice filling your lungs in a consistent time, like five seconds, and be aware of the air hole settings on the RDA too. Then start low power (say, 10W) and build up until you hit the sweet spot. Watch out for doses being boosted by leftover spice from the last try when doing this!

You won't "waste a kilo" dialing in this way, maybe 100mg or so will get used for a few sub breakthrough experiences as you work your way up. But I've heard plenty of tales of people wasting a gram by starting too hot and just repeatedly burning it up wondering why it tastes nasty and has little effect.

With both modes, making sure you start toking just before you hit the button helps prevent temperature spikes at the beginning which might otherwise burn some or all of your spice.

Also, get some decent scales and test them for repeatability, if your dose is varying by 5 or more mg every time then you're going to get inconsistent results. The best way to avoid this is to make sure the scales are on a hard level surface, calibrate them as per instructions, and then when measuring your dose: preload a few grams on the scales ( a penny with a cigarette paper on top to hold the spice works for me ) and do the math to work out what weight you need to aim for when you add your spice on.

Once all that is dialled in, THEN you might be able to almost guarantee a breakthrough every time, there's no straight recipe for it

 

[Geek77]

Thank you very much.
All this makes sense.
I guess I will grab one of the 200w, modify all contacts to perfection, try the TC and if it's not very precise - I will move on to power mode.

I guess I can get a laser thermometer and fine-tune the TC before using, my measuring the hot coil and messing with the contacts.

Oh I wish I knew how to extract, and that my wife and kids wouldn't mind living in a chemistry lab

 

[Transform]

Oh I wish I knew how to extract, and that my wife and kids wouldn't mind living in a chemistry lab

It's quite possible to extract with normal kitchen equipment, although there are a few fairly unobtrusive bits of lab gear that really help. There are even various levels of food-safe extractions. The sky's your oyster

 

[Geek77]

It's quite possible to extract with normal kitchen equipment, although there are a few fairly unobtrusive bits of lab gear that really help. There are even various levels of food-safe extractions. The sky's your oyster

I hear you. I will look into it.
Another thing - what is the perfect temperature to vaporize it? I mean the real temperature, not whatever the reading shows. Thx!

 

[Transform]

I hear you. I will look into it.
Another thing - what is the perfect temperature to vaporize it? I mean the real temperature, not whatever the reading shows. Thx!

If you look through the posts/threads of (the now legendary) @Brennendes Wasser you may find the experimental details of how they measured this - although I don't specifically recall whether they tested freebase DMT.

I can't quote a figure off the top of my head, but it's worth noting that DMT freebase will have appreciable volatility well below its actual boiling point, just as puddles dry up without the temperature being anywhere near 100°C (fortunately!) Hence, we have a dynamic interplay between thermal flux, evaporation and airflow.

This might just be a long-winded way of saying it's difficult to measure and specify an optimal temperature range for the in situ vaporisation space.

As mentioned, it's far from being my area of expertise - I'll be on as much of a learning curve as you. For the moment, I'm trying to think about and, in particular, visualise the physics of it on a molecular to microscopic scale.

Edit: here is what BW found:

I think 175 °C is optimal for vaporization

 

[Geek77]

If you look through the posts/threads of (the now legendary) @Brennendes Wasser you may find the experimental details of how they measured this - although I don't specifically recall whether they tested freebase DMT.

I can't quote a figure off the top of my head, but it's worth noting that DMT freebase will have appreciable volatility well below its actual boiling point, just as puddles dry up without the temperature being anywhere near 100°C (fortunately!) Hence, we have a dynamic interplay between thermal flux, evaporation and airflow.

This might just be a long-winded way of saying it's difficult to measure and specify an optimal temperature range for the in situ vaporisation space.

As mentioned, it's far from being my area of expertise - I'll be on as much of a learning curve as you. For the moment, I'm trying to think about and, in particular, visualise the physics of it on a molecular to microscopic scale.

Edit: here is what BW found:

Yes I understand everything you said, thank you.

I was thinking of perfecting the contact area of the RDA parts, and measure with a laser thermometer, to see if it is actually the temp that it shows, when coil is exposed and maybe some air blown on it to imitate smoking. But the airflow shouldn't even be necessary, in theory.

So even if it gives thew wrong reading, I will now what the error is. For example, if the MOD says it's 200 but the mesh shows as 175 on the laser - It's perfect at 200.

Does this make sense?

 

[Transform]

Yes I understand everything you said, thank you.

I was thinking of perfecting the contact area of the RDA parts, and measure with a laser thermometer, to see if it is actually the temp that it shows, when coil is exposed and maybe some air blown on it to imitate smoking. But the airflow shouldn't even be necessary, in theory.

So even if it gives thew wrong reading, I will now what the error is. For example, if the MOD says it's 200 but the mesh shows as 175 on the laser - It's perfect at 200.

Does this make sense?

Sounds like a good plan - your results will be eagerly awaited!

 

[Geek77]

Sounds like a good plan - your results will be eagerly awaited!

OK so I got the Geekvape Z200.
2 of them actually. You know, just in case.

Jk, I am mounting the exact same kit as a present for a friend of mine, so unfortunately the expense is doubled.

But you can't put a price on true friendship, right?

Next doubt, the batteries.

If I am not a moron, I will need maximum Amperage possible on them, while mha capacity is not important, correct?

We need to heat the coil up quickly but it's not important how long the battery last till next recharge.

Yes?

Thank you guys. You are the best!

 

[Transform]

OK so I got the Geekvape Z200.
2 of them actually. You know, just in case.

Jk, I am mounting the exact same kit as a present for a friend of mine, so unfortunately the expense is doubled.

But you can't put a price on true friendship, right?

Next doubt, the batteries.

If I am not a moron, I will need maximum Amperage possible on them, while mha capacity is not important, correct?

We need to heat the coil up quickly but it's not important how long the battery last till next recharge.

Yes?

Thank you guys. You are the best!

I would have thought the batteries were s standard size, not that I know much about this. FWIW, my Aegis takes the usual Samsung 23870 or whatever the number is. If you have a spec sheet, it's probably written there.

 

[Geek77]

I would have thought the batteries were s standard size, not that I know much about this. FWIW, my Aegis takes the usual Samsung 23870 or whatever the number is. If you have a spec sheet, it's probably written there.

There is so much to the batteries world.
Some have a big capacity (last long), and some have high power debit (give much quickly).

Mha vs Amps.

Setting up the perfect field here.