potato
Rising Star
I already posted about this in the welcome forum. I apologize if this post is unnecessarily redundant.
When spice first became a regular part of my life, I had a lot of difficulty vaping and inhaling. I frequently burned the spice or failed to vaporize a large enough dose. Eventually I realized that my difficulties were, in fact, the spirit of the spice telling me that it was up to me to create my ideal device. That device is essentially a machine with so a bunch of additional features. I'll call it the Mutant Machine,
This is it:
I love this device because the mesh element is right at eye level when a person is taking a hit. This makes it easy to watch the flame and control the amount of heat applied the spice. The spice vaporizes very efficiently because the tube and mesh element point straight down.
The U-shaped drying tube can make any pipe with a complimentary joint into a super effective spice rig.
If you want a smaller, simpler rig, he J-hook and drying tube work very well without the percolator:
I like to use it like this for very pure spice.
Also it's super easy to load if you use something like this box to hold the U-tube:
I've found that the spice vaporizes more evenly if the tube is totally vertical when the spice is loaded.
I love this thing. I'm sure that most of you are perfectly happy with your spice pipes. But if you're interested in putting a Mutant Machine together, here's a few tips:
-Get a drying tube with a 14/20 joint. The wide open end of the 14/20 tubes is usually the right size for a vaporizing element. The inner diameter of the non-joint end should be about 8mm to 15mm.
-Drying tubes can often be found at low prices on ebay. Many laboratory glassware suppliers sell them but they are usually very expensive. This is the only reasonably priced drying tube I've seen from a glassware supplier. I think shipping is like $15 though.
-It's better to have a shorter path between the mesh vaporizing element and the mouthpiece. The inner volume of the device should be small as well. More space inside the pipe means a slower flow of vapor, and a slower flow of vapor means that you might be off in hyperspace before you get a chance to take a second hit.
When spice first became a regular part of my life, I had a lot of difficulty vaping and inhaling. I frequently burned the spice or failed to vaporize a large enough dose. Eventually I realized that my difficulties were, in fact, the spirit of the spice telling me that it was up to me to create my ideal device. That device is essentially a machine with so a bunch of additional features. I'll call it the Mutant Machine,
This is it:
I love this device because the mesh element is right at eye level when a person is taking a hit. This makes it easy to watch the flame and control the amount of heat applied the spice. The spice vaporizes very efficiently because the tube and mesh element point straight down.
The U-shaped drying tube can make any pipe with a complimentary joint into a super effective spice rig.
If you want a smaller, simpler rig, he J-hook and drying tube work very well without the percolator:
I like to use it like this for very pure spice.
Also it's super easy to load if you use something like this box to hold the U-tube:
I've found that the spice vaporizes more evenly if the tube is totally vertical when the spice is loaded.
I love this thing. I'm sure that most of you are perfectly happy with your spice pipes. But if you're interested in putting a Mutant Machine together, here's a few tips:
-Get a drying tube with a 14/20 joint. The wide open end of the 14/20 tubes is usually the right size for a vaporizing element. The inner diameter of the non-joint end should be about 8mm to 15mm.
-Drying tubes can often be found at low prices on ebay. Many laboratory glassware suppliers sell them but they are usually very expensive. This is the only reasonably priced drying tube I've seen from a glassware supplier. I think shipping is like $15 though.
-It's better to have a shorter path between the mesh vaporizing element and the mouthpiece. The inner volume of the device should be small as well. More space inside the pipe means a slower flow of vapor, and a slower flow of vapor means that you might be off in hyperspace before you get a chance to take a second hit.
