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UK Naphtha
- Thread starter Virandell
- Start date
Randomness
Rising Star
Lighter fluid or if you want a larger amount that works out much better value get some pre-wipe degreaser from an auto factor.
You can always do a search for material safety data sheet on a product to find out what it actually contains
No where in the really uk sells “naphtha” as a product in itself. You just have to work out what it’s legitimately used for.
You can always do a search for material safety data sheet on a product to find out what it actually contains
No where in the really uk sells “naphtha” as a product in itself. You just have to work out what it’s legitimately used for.
I am planning to buy zippo lighter fluid low odor u think that's a good option?Randomness said:Lighter fluid or if you want a larger amount that works out much better value get some pre-wipe degreaser from an auto factor.
You can always do a search for material safety data sheet on a product to find out what it actually contains
Thanks
Randomness
Rising Star
Works for me I have used it in the past before getting a shed load of degreaser.
The degreaser is slightly lighter and evaporates quicker if you use it in a zippo. It’s also about 10x cheaper per 100ml but only comes in 5l containers
The degreaser is slightly lighter and evaporates quicker if you use it in a zippo. It’s also about 10x cheaper per 100ml but only comes in 5l containers
Randomness said:Works for me I have used it in the past before getting a shed load of degreaser.
The degreaser is slightly lighter and evaporates quicker if you use it in a zippo. It’s also about 10x cheaper per 100ml but only comes in 5l containers
Contains-Solvent naphtha (petroleum) light aliph :!: is it safe ? bull brand light fluid
PsyDuckmonkey
witch
From what I gather, medical benzinum is also good, one just needs to be careful with pressure, as it has more low-temperature evaporating fractions than lighter fluid. In mainland Europe I found that it's cheaper in bulk than premium lighter fuel, and is sure to be free from problematic additives.
Also, I think you might also consider xylene (available as paint solvent). According to some sources, it would seem to pull more alkaloids from MHRB soup than naphtha, resulting in a more "interesting" (but less "pure") product.
Also, I think you might also consider xylene (available as paint solvent). According to some sources, it would seem to pull more alkaloids from MHRB soup than naphtha, resulting in a more "interesting" (but less "pure") product.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Yes, if it doesn't contain any other ingredient or additive that isn't safe.Virandell said:
Always do an evaporation test; if it leaves a greasy mark, don't use it.
An alternative that works quite nicely (and is pretty cheap) is to use BBQ lighting fluid (the naphtha sort) although this is a heavier naphtha so you're better off recrystallising from something like the Zippo fuel. At least that helps you to avoid buying four cans of Zippo at once.
Someone recently posted a similar question about Coleman liquid camping fuel, which is also a good light naphtha and would be worth considering if there's a decent camping/caravanning store in your area.
earnest
Rising Star
Randomness
Rising Star
Looks all good from the data sheet.
Composed of fairly light hydrocarbons c6 to c12 so should be fairly selective and give a clean final product. It’s closer to hexane than lighter fluid which is generally a bit heavier so as not to evaporate out of your lighter to quickly.
The lighter hydrocarbons hold slightly less spice per ml but pick up less impurity’s such as plant fats and oils. You can increase the capacity of a solvent to hold alkaloids by increasing the temperature at which you extract with the trade off being a higher chance of picking up the above mentioned plant oils and fats.
As mentioned above do an evaporation test on anything you use just to check it doesn’t leave a resadue.
Generally the auto degreasers are used before spraying cars body work with paint so have to evaporate fully to be any use.
Composed of fairly light hydrocarbons c6 to c12 so should be fairly selective and give a clean final product. It’s closer to hexane than lighter fluid which is generally a bit heavier so as not to evaporate out of your lighter to quickly.
The lighter hydrocarbons hold slightly less spice per ml but pick up less impurity’s such as plant fats and oils. You can increase the capacity of a solvent to hold alkaloids by increasing the temperature at which you extract with the trade off being a higher chance of picking up the above mentioned plant oils and fats.
As mentioned above do an evaporation test on anything you use just to check it doesn’t leave a resadue.
Generally the auto degreasers are used before spraying cars body work with paint so have to evaporate fully to be any use.
I got last stiupid question I decided use zippo now for the safety reason very very stiupid question I will be doing GordoTek extraction vinegar+calcium hydroxide + zippo + slow cooker I will have to evaporate it for about 40 min it will be safe to do it in the kitchen with low ventilation ? My window can open only Abit because of kitchen sink.... Or not risk it and try do it somehow on balcony but temperature is about 2 4 degrees and I will have to do it at night so people could not see me
Sorry again for question...
I will be doing GordoTek extraction vinegar+calcium hydroxide + zippo + slow cooker I will have to evaporate it for about 40 min it will be safe to do it in the kitchen with low ventilation ? My window can open only Abit because of kitchen sink.... Or not risk it and try do it somehow on balcony but temperature is about 2 4 degrees and I will have to do it at night so people could not see me Sorry again for question...
Randomness
Rising Star
If you want to be really safe and definitely not catch fire warm something else up in your oven like some sand and then put that on your balcony and put the extract on it to provide some heat.
Chances are that if you did evap in your kitchen you would just make your house stink of lighter fluid and give yourself a headache but I am not going to recommend anything that could potentially combust and cause you or your neighbors to catch fire.
Chances are that if you did evap in your kitchen you would just make your house stink of lighter fluid and give yourself a headache but I am not going to recommend anything that could potentially combust and cause you or your neighbors to catch fire.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
If you have washing soda (sodium carbonate) you can mix that with your lime in situ to produce caustic soda without having to handle the concentrated 'chemical'. This works as part of an A/B tek to pull with naphtha. You would still want to use gloves and eye protection, even with lime.Virandell said:
Lighter fluid is not that flammable, especially compared to something like diethyl ether. And you can use your slow cooker with a suitably rated extension lead, surely? (Although if you're doing that, having somebody spark up a cigarette lighter nearby could potentially cause ignition.)Just to keep my head clear as I can see you are experienced
Alternatively, just use smaller amounts for each pull. It's a good idea to avoid having to evaporate, especially if you're having trouble finding a decent solvent.
If your living situation is not suitable in terms of facilities, neighbours, security, or whatever then you would be better off waiting until you've moved to a better location. Use the intervening time to read, read, read more about the whole process so you understand what you'll be doing.
downwardsfromzero said:If you have washing soda (sodium carbonate) you can mix that with your lime in situ to produce caustic soda without having to handle the concentrated 'chemical'. This works as part of an A/B tek to pull with naphtha. You would still want to use gloves and eye protection, even with lime.Virandell said:
Lighter fluid is not that flammable, especially compared to something like diethyl ether. And you can use your slow cooker with a suitably rated extension lead, surely? (Although if you're doing that, having somebody spark up a cigarette lighter nearby could potentially cause ignition.)Just to keep my head clear as I can see you are experienced
Alternatively, just use smaller amounts for each pull. It's a good idea to avoid having to evaporate, especially if you're having trouble finding a decent solvent.
If your living situation is not suitable in terms of facilities, neighbours, security, or whatever then you would be better off waiting until you've moved to a better location. Use the intervening time to read, read, read more about the whole process so you understand what you'll be doing.
What u mean with good suitability rated extension ? Do u think refiling normal pot with water from the kettle would work as good as slow cooker ?
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
"a suitably rated extension lead" - an electrical cable fitted with a plug on one end and socket or sockets on the other, which is capable of safely delivering the power required by the device plugged into it.
(UK plugs are fitted with a safety fuse, the power rating of which should be appropriate for the device being powered through it.)
Most notably, if one uses a high-powered device with a cable-drum type extension cord, the cable should be fully unwound to avoid risk of fire.
(I think you've covered this idea in one of your duplicate threads, which should probably be merged into this one.)
USING A SMALLER VOLUME OF SOLVENT WILL REDUCE OR COMPLETELY REMOVE THE NEED TO EVAPORATE!
^Please consider this notion carefully.^