• Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).

Acetone DMT extraction

Migrated topic.


Rising Star
OG Pioneer
re: Contact Support

I've heard acetone doesn't work? this guy reccomends evaporating
acetone/basefied water with elfspice dissolved,
in order to cause the freebase to crystalise. (at the bottom, I presume.)
as the acetone leaves.

is this possible??
im having solvent evaporation troubles.

current count: almost 2 weeks under a desk fan on MAX,
then atleast 4 or 5 days on about 4 hours per day @ up to 55*C under the same fan.
sometimes split into two dishes, also tried a freeze-percipitate inbetween and netted
almost nothing, but a fine yellow layer on filter paper. Was dmt definately;
but almost none.

It never takes this long usually.
ah yes SWIY mentioned that. Thats very strange its taking so long to evaporate. Is the solvent naptha? what is the volume? is the climate humid or dry? also the heat can probably be increased are you sure the numbers are accurate on SWIYs cooker?

also it makes sense what they did on the nook and it certainly seems feasable. but SWIYs situation the sample is in the nonpolar solvent already. so one would have to add acidic water and reextract back in that basify and then attempt to crystallize the way they suggested (could make slight mistakes and lose yield).
SWIM probaby has about 1 inch of solvent in a glass baking dish... dunno how much that makes it. maybe 250ml?

Would a standard a/b from this point get rid of it?

swim was under the impression that he'd have to reduce with zinc or sodium nitrite
The extract came from near 1.5kg of mimosa powder (jurema) which was basified in a STB extraction;
then several pulls were done, it kept getting used and now it yeilds piss yellow coloured liquid
(naptha) which just plain won't evaporate. It has gone down a little lately, but it is SOOOO slow.

Swim is dissapointed...

swim has ordered more.

its just plain ol' b&q white spirit turpentine substitute btw (naptha)
I have heard reports of Deva batches- not neceserarily what they have in now- being very oily. I think the chances are you've had you're yield and you're trying to get blood out of a stone, the crud. Move on already:wink:
How about dry tek (mimosa and calcium hydroxide) + acetone pull, then salting with FASA. Fumarates should precipitate, but then again all the impurities in acetone might make that a problem and not precipitate well.

In any case if it doesnt precipitate, evaporate the whole thing, wash with acetone, re-base by making wet paste with calcium hydroxide and letting it dry, repull with acetone, re-salt, then hopefully now the fumarates are precipitating cleaner? When they are reasonably clean/tan fumarates, redissolve in water, add sodium carbonate saturated solution and let freebase crystalize in the fridge.

One thing about the first step of all this, the mimosa+calcium hydroxide, is that if its wet, the acetone will mix with water and if you separate that, you will have some mimosaimpurities+calcium hydroxide+alkaloids. So would be better to evap all of that and then pull again with acetone, before continuing to the salting part.

All of this is theoretical, try it out and let us know if it works
Everything in the acetone method seems ok chemically, but I wouldn't use that recrystallization method. Looks a bit unnecessary/messy and might just result in some loss of what should be fairly pure freebase DMT.

I did find the method fairly confusing and lacking in explanations, but the ol' grey matter pulled through.

In "Dual Solvent Extraction/Defatting", a 50/50 mixture of odorless turpentine and denatured ethanol doesn't need to make in the first step. It is more logical and probably be better to use only denatured ethanol in step 1 and then add the turpentine after step 4 like a classic defat. In step 2 I would probably add more acid. Your yield will only be as large as the amount of DMT that gets converted into the salt, ie if there is extra DMT floating around, the extra acid will convert it into a salt.

I also just realised that this is a 3 year old thread, but nevertheless, if you have any questions feel free to ask. I pretty much am chemistry.
Why would anyone call for using denatured solvent in a tek? Different countries and products will have different denaturing agents, which could screw the extraction and/or end up in your final product.

That method in the original post link looks aweful, definitely deserves the 0.1 Alpha version name to it. We've come a long way since then.

Lastly, practice > theory , there are tons of details which can affect precipitation when dealing with mixed-substance solutions.
I tried a bufo-style extraction with acetone and it didn't work. Unlike with bufo, nothing precipped when FASA was added. And all the acetone was dry. I had to dry the acetone completely and it was nasty, I had to do a mini stb on the goo with lye and naptha to get it clean enough. Yield was low, less than 1% even after doing a second wet/basify/dry and another acetone wash, which produced about the same as the first wash. And I got 1.5% on the same bark with stb and limo. It isn't worth the trouble. The limtek is much better for a quick and dirty method, but I find stb to be the least work and most consistent.

There are several threads floating around here about this very topic. This one is particularly old.
Top Bottom