Alien DMT Tek up for reviews too :)

[endlessness]

So, SWIM has been extracting from mimosa lately, and before that, he had trouble finding a propper tek that explained everything. It was always 'mix this, separate that', but it never explained properly how to do that. Also many steps were missing, like recrystalization or washing, so swim had to read many teks

So SWIM decided to write his own tek after a few experiences, and wants to know what you guys think. SWIM tried to add tips, better explanations and some pics to make it a nice easy good yield good purity straight to base tek. Please tell me what you guys think




Alien Simple DMT Extraction Tek

Equipment


• 150 grams of MHRB (mimosa hostilis root bark). Preferably powder.
• Pipette or turkey baster (preferably one big 20ml and one small 3 or 5ml. Can also be just one of 10 or 5ml)
• 2,5 liters distilled Water (preferably. If not, can be tap water)
• Big Becker (600ml)
• Small Becker (50ml)
• Wide pyrex baking dish (like the ones to make lasagna)
• Big 3l glass pot/container with closeable lid (can´t be aluminium top, preferably stainless steel top, but can be plastic top) Alternatively, container can be big HDPE plastic jug
• Small water bottle (500ml)
• A few normal drinking glasses/marmelade jars
. small shot glass (tequila style)
• Funnel, preferably glass or stainless steel.
• Razor blade and/or scalpel
• Kitchen Wrap
• Protection Gloves
• Protection glasses/goggles
• Protective Mask (like the doctor ones)
• pH measuring/litmus paper (optional, but can help a lot)
• Thermometer (optional. ideally one that measures up to 100 degrees celcius, but a normal body temperature thermometer already helps a bit)
• Scale (optional, but helps a lot. Preferably accurate to at least 0.1g)

• 1 liter of solvent (preferably Naphta, but also hexane/heptane)
• 150 grams of caustic soda/lye/Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
• Just a pinch of sodium Carbonate/washing soda (optional, but helps for a purer product)

All quantities above are for a 150 MHRB extraction. For different quantities, adjust proportionally the amount of solvent, caustic soda and water. Dont do more than 200g mimosa in each 3,2l pot or it will be too thick. Ideal is to use at most 150g per big 3,2l pot

READ EVERYTHING BEFORE STARTING, TO UNDERSTAND THE PROCESS


WARNING:
1-Sodium Hydroxide can blind and cause severe burns in the skin. Always wear protective material. In case of contact with skin, throw vinegar to neutralize and then wash properly with water and soap. Sodium Hydroxide in contact with water generates a lot of energy. If a drop of water falls in a quantity of NaOH, the reaction can cause flying pieces of dangerous material. That´s why caustic soda must always be mixed with water (gradually), and not the other way around
2-Solvent is flammable/explosive, so always use it only in well ventilated área. Certify there is no flame or possible sparks around. Avoid breathing the vapour too much.

Extraction

Put on protective equipment (gloves, goggles and mask)

1- Put 2,5 liters of distilled water in the big pot. Gradually mix 110 grams of NaOH to the water, stiring well the whole time (so no heat accumulates in one spot and breaks the glass) until it disappears in water. Wait 15 minutes for the water to cool a little bit. If you have a pH paper, measure the pH of the water. It should be 14 or more. (this step is important because dmt is in salt form inside the MHRB. We want it to turn it to freebase form, which will be soluble in the solvent, and this happens with a high pH)


2- Throw all the powdered MHRB in the pot and mix for 10 minutes. The mimosa must become black. If the mimosa is not powdered but only in pieces, then leave it for an hour or 2.

.
3- Measure 200/250 ml of naphta, throw it in the pot. You must mix without shaking strong. Use different forms of mixing, like:
• Stir with some object (stainless steel spoon for example)
• Close well the lid and turn the pot upside down, turning it back up again, then upside down again, and so on.
• Lay the pot in horizontal position and roll it on the floor/table

Now the dmt will be going to the naphta, so that’s why the naphta must get in contact with as much mimosa mix as possible.
Normally, the naphta should separate from the rest like water and oil, forming a clear layer on top. It is not recommended to shake strongly because it could prevent good separation, forming an emulsion that does not break. If an emulsion is formed, wait for some time, an hour or 2. If it still doesn’t help at all, you can use other techniques like: soft hits on the side of the pot, letting warm water run through the side of the pot (always careful with flames) or even throwing a bit of salt in the mixture.


So do the mixing for 10 minutes, leave another 10 or 15 minutes for the layers to separate, mix again for 10 minutes, and so on for an hour. Ocasionaly open the pot lid to prevent building up of pressure

4- Now its time to do a pull, separating the naphta from the rest. Each one finds their own way. The form we found to be easier and save time was to (with gloves, obviously) hold an empty drinking glass upright and sink it inside the ´mimosa mix+naphtha layer on top´ slowly, as if you are filling up a glass of water in the pool. This way, when the top of the glass goes under the liquid, the liquid will start going in the glass. As the nafta layer is the one on top, it will be the first to go in. Pay attention looking at the pot. The nafta layer will get thinner as it goes into the cup. As it arrives at the black liquid (or just before), pull the cup up. If there is a bit of naphta still on top of the black liquid, don’t worry because you will be doing another pull later on.
When you take out the cup, it will be full of the black liquid around the outside, so leave a cloth on the table and put it on top of it. Then just use the cloth to clean the outside of the glass. If there is some of the black liquid in the glass, don’t worry either. Now it will be much easier to separate the naphta to another place because the glass, being thinner than the big container, will make the naphta layer thicker. So use the pipette to separate the naphta, putting in another clean glass (and put plastic wrap on top of it to prevent evaporation for now)

5-(Optional) To guarantee there is no residue of the caustic soda in your product, you can make this easy step. Measure 50ml of water with the small beaker and throw a pinch of sodium carbonate in it. It´s very little carbonate that you use, less than a pinch of salt, just a few grains. Wait for it to dissolve in the water, and measure the pH if you have the pH paper. It must be ideally at 8,5, not less, and at most 9,5. Now put this water in the small bottle of water. Then also put in the water bottle with the help of a funnel the naphta you had separated in the last step. Shake well (this time no emulsions form). Now its time to separate again the naphta. As the layer of water stays on the bottom and is smaller than the naphta layer, its easier to take it off first. You can go with the pipette all the way to the bottom and suck it up (better to take it all out even with a tiny bit of naphta in the end just to make sure there is no more of the water). You can discard this water. Then put the clean naphta in another container, close it with plastic wrap again to prevent evaporation.

6- Put another 200ml of naphta in the big pot, repeating steps 3,4 (and 5). You should make in total at least 4 pulls, to make sure you got most of the dmt out. The last pull the naphtha should be heated (in a water bath, no flames near) before mixing, to guarantee getting the alkaloids out

7- Now its time to take out the dmt from the naphta. You can do this in 2 different ways (you can also divide the naphta in 2 and try both ways at the same time to see which one works for you). SWIM definitely recommends the 7b :

7a – Evaporation – Put all the naphta you separated into the baking glass pan and let the naphta evaporate (do it in a ventilated area, ideally outside, because the vapor is flammable). Put a fan in front will accelerate the process, but if you do that, cover the pan with a light thin cloth to prevent insects or dirt from falling in the pan. Also, slow evaporation yields nicer crystals according to some reports.

The naphta evaporates relatively fast, but the final part of it takes long, when there is an oily thin layer. Be patience, let it evaporate for a day or 2. There should be some crystal formations around the pan. It might seem very little at first, because its all spread out. Scrape the crystals with the razor/scalpel, and put them on top of a coffee filter (only if they are not oily anymore) or better in the sides of a plate to dry completely.

Or

7b – Freeze Precipitation – Evaporate part of the naphta (if there was 200ml, evaporate to for example 50ml). The naphta will get cloudy, which is a good sign. Now cover the container (which might be a glass, a marmalade jar or in our case, a small glass bowl) with two layers of kitchen wrap and put it in the freezer (the colder the better). After 1 whole day, there should form crystals on the sides and bottom of the container.

Now here´s the deal: Most of the dmt will be stuck, very little will be floating. So one can proceed in a number of ways to get the crystals.. One of them is to So take it out of the freezer and quickly scrape the sides and bottom of the container with some knife or scalpel or something.. If you are quick (under a minute) The naphtha will still be cold, so the scraped dmt wont be re-absorbed, it will just be floating around on the naphta.. Then what you have to pour the naphtha with the floating suspended dmt through the filter .. The naphtha will pass through and the dmt will be on top of the filter.. So now just open the filter up, spread the dmt a bit and let it dry properly (careful the wind or something doesnt blow it away).. There may be some rests of dmt still in the glass that was in the fridge, that wasnt properly scraped.. scrape those rests and also put it on top of the coffee filter.. When its dried, its ready to use. Dont throw the naphtha away, it can be reused, either throwing it back in the mimosa mix for another pull, or just keeping it for some extraction later in the future (or just evaporate it completely to retrieve any possible leftover dmt in it)..

The other method of retrieving the crystals from the freeze precipitated container is to take it out of the freezer, quickly pour out the naphtha, and then turn the container upside down, but with some sort of support on one side so that it stays tilted and with air coming in.. Then put put a fan reasonably close to it so that there is more air coming in.. I suggest this ´tilted, upside down´ thing because IF you just leave it standing up normally to finish drying, then its possible that the little solvent trapped between the crystals, as it warms up, starts melting the crystals. Then what happens is it all slides to the bottom of the container where an oily layer forms which refuses to completely dry and crystalize (maybe also due to possible water dropplets that condensed due to cold temperature of the container, and slided down together). In any case, in the end, once its dry, just scrape the crystals and it´s ready.




8- (optional) Recrystallization – If the crystals are too dark, brown, impure in some way or if you chose to go the evaporating route and the result of the scraping is too oily and does not crystallize even after a full day, then you can do this process to clean it. The point of this step is that warm just enough naphtha to be saturated and dissolve the dmt, but not the impurities

Weight the amount of dmt you want to clean up, and put it in a thin container (shot glass works perfect, normal thin drinking glass can work too). Heat up a normal pot of water. Put out the flames before it boils (about 70 degrees). Add 25ml of naphtha per gram of dmt in the container with the dmt, and put the bottom of the glass inside the warm water (don’t let water go inside the container, and be careful with the very flammable hot solvent flames). Move/swirl the glass a little bit, so naphta moves around.
After a couple of minutes, the whole dmt will be dissolved, but probably a layer of some goo will remain at the bottom. This is mostly impurities. You should simply pour the naphta into another container (or better, pull it out with a pippete) leaving the goo behind. Add another, say, 5ml of naphtha to the goo and suck it back up again, just to guarantee you got basically everything of the dmt. Just take as much as you can without pulling the goo up together. If there is a tiny bit left, its no problem..
Now with the cleaner naphtha, close the container with double layer plastic wrap and put it to cool to room temperature for an hour. Then stick it in the fridge for another hour, and then in the freezer (the colder the better). Just like the freeze precipitation, you leave this for a day in the freezer, and the pure crystals will form in the side/bottom of the glass. Remove the glass from the freezer, scrape the crystals off the sides, and pour the naphtha+crystals through a coffee filter, and quickly pour the naphta out (you can reuse this naphta voilá, you have very pure dmt crystals to smoke





Powdered Mimosa

Notice the dark colour of the Water+NaOH and Mimosa mix. This means the pH is high enough.

Naphtha separates from the rest like oil and water

Crystals forming with the evaporation of the naphtha in the baking pan. There is still oily matter that must evaporate more.

Light Yellow crystals scraped from evaporation pan

Even purer white crystals from the freeze precipitation

 

[happyhighbunny]

nice pictures and tek. Swim found turkey baster to be easiest way to extract naptha, but u have to play with it some to get good at it.

SImply suck up the naptha with the baster, and if u start getting some of the black lye liquid, don't panic, suck some of it up also. The naptha will float to the top of the turkey baster, then u can pull it out of the solution and all of the black liquid like crap will fall out first, then simply pour the clear naptha into a jar.
Using this method i was able to get more naptha out of the jug than using any thing else, and use I tried syringe and eye dropper. I'm probably able to get 95% out. All the black stuff will fall out once u raise baster out of solution, leaving clear naptha to pull into jar...

Even with the above method it's 100% important to look at the bottom of a jar after a pull. If u see any black/yellow/brown specs at the bottom of the jar, that is bad. Find another jar, pour clear stuff into it leaving behind bad stuff. Now the jar is ready for evap or freezer.


After u get done using nomans or another freezer tek, "SAVE THE NAPTHA!!!" there is still plenty of dmt in it, not all of it will freze to the side of the jar. Evap this stuff down and although it will probably be yellow "mine was" it was still very very strong stuff.

Then if u want to further purify it, find a small glass jar like a baby food jar, put yellow dmt into it, then add only a little naptha until it dissolves. put this into freezer, and you will get cleaner stuff back.

 

[El Ka Bong]

Send this one to annals of the lye-eater club !

" measure the pH of the water. It should be 14 or more..." Oh yeah - spread the wisdom my pH meter goes to 20 ! ... So why was the pH being changed anyways, did you read about that one?

Misinformation folks ! .. blind newbs leading blinder newbs ! I bet they all end up eating lye ! Too lazy to learn why each step is being done, never mind actually measuring ph.

And what was the yeild, after or before washing ..?

Getting >0.9% yeild is good - good MHRB and a well done tek. And that's why an acid-base separation is the tek you should have learned. To beat a bit of dmt out of MHRB with a lye-stew at a pH of > 14 is a lame tek, just like the dirty yeild will be.

YOu'll get higher purity (don't need to wash) and higher yeild from acid-base separation, every time. Stick to pH's of 2.0 (acid soak) and 11.5 (basified), and filter the acid-soak well before basifying. You've got all the rest figured out - just stop making the lye-stew !

 

[Noman]

El Bong is right in that that quantity of lye is going to take your pH immeasurably above 14, but it's still not enough to properly break down the bark for this technique.
Other than that, this will work, but I'm not seeing any new information here, just a rewrite of a procedure that's been rewritten several times already.
Also, you misspelled beaker.

El Bong - do we really have to revisit the lye eater discussion every goddamn fucking time a straight to base tek is even mentioned?
It's growing rather tiresome.
Especially since you've never done one.
Especially since it's been shown time and again that lye is completely insoluable in NP solvent.

 

[endlessness]

Send this one to annals of the lye-eater club !

" measure the pH of the water. It should be 14 or more..." Oh yeah - spread the wisdom my pH meter goes to 20 ! ... So why was the pH being changed anyways, did you read about that one?

Misinformation folks ! .. blind newbs leading blinder newbs ! I bet they all end up eating lye ! Too lazy to learn why each step is being done, never mind actually measuring ph.

And what was the yeild, after or before washing ..?

Getting >0.9% yeild is good - good MHRB and a well done tek. And that's why an acid-base separation is the tek you should have learned. To beat a bit of dmt out of MHRB with a lye-stew at a pH of > 14 is a lame tek, just like the dirty yeild will be.

YOu'll get higher purity (don't need to wash) and higher yeild from acid-base separation, every time. Stick to pH's of 2.0 (acid soak) and 11.5 (basified), and filter the acid-soak well before basifying. You've got all the rest figured out - just stop making the lye-stew !

firstly, by the way you answer, I wonder if you have really learned anything from your psychedelic lessons, such as respect, being open, wanting to help out people on the way, patience, etc.

These were the first words you directed at me, a fellow human being. You really think this is the way to go? I for myself would be very happy for anyone attempting to search the path of these holy substances and try to help him consciously and calmly if there was anything I thought would be better..

If you honestly think there is something about it that is wrong, I have no problem at all with criticism and will be open to what you say. The way you say it, though, doesnt seem like a constructive criticism, it just seems like you identified with 'a/b' extractions and anything appart from that is an insult to you personally, so you're reacting automatically to external stimulus without actually giving a conscious thought on what you write. Maybe im wrong but thats what it seems.

I can guarantee you that is not the case, im not trying to insult you . Im a fellow explorer and am looking to help people achieve an independence for their own experiences, and thought I might have some interesting contributions. that is why I asked for people to review it

And why this judging, saying I dont know why each step is done. Sure I know why each step is done, I've researched for months before making any move towards this. Again makes me wonder if your experiences and 'expertness' has actually shown you anything of value for human relations, respect and so on.

You ask why ph 14 or more? I can tell you, the ph is being measured in the pure water, and with the presence of the whole rootbark, it is bound to change, get less. After the bark is in the water it is still (imo) advisable to have a quite high ph (high ph will turn dmt into freebase, but not only that, a ph over 13 seems to considerably diminish all emulsions. I can tell you I mixed very strongly and had no emulsion at all)

As for dirty yield, you are wrong. In the end after the washing I got many very pure white crystals, and the yellow crystals from evaporation I recrystalized, also yielding very pure white crystals. (what is your problem with the washing? Its definitely a very very very easy and quick step, and even in the a/b extractions, with some sloppy techniques it might be that some residual lye is there, so doing the washing is still recomended)

Also the washing I recommended, if you read, is not the ammonia, which has been reported with many problems.

and as for small yield, thats also prejudging from you. Have you actually properly done this STB to know? SWIM has consistently gotten a 0,9% yield of very pure crystals. If your prejudice would allow you to really research, you would have seen that when properly done, STB teks can have very pure and good yields from mimosa (maybe not with other plants, but in the case of mimosa, yes). But you know what they say, 'the Prover proves what the Thinker Thinks'

even though you have showed 0 respect, I still wish you a good life and good luck with your explorings. If you have any further constructive criticism, its very welcome

El Bong is right in that that quantity of lye is going to take your pH immeasurably above 14, but it's still not enough to properly break down the bark for this technique.
Other than that, this will work, but I'm not seeing any new information here, just a rewrite of a procedure that's been rewritten several times already.
Also, you misspelled beaker.

Hello

What do you mean its not enough to properly break down the bark, even though its a very high pH (btw, I've been recommending powdered rootbark.. with unpowdered, it might be different indeed) ?

As for new information.. Well, indeed I didnt bring a new revolutionary tek. Before SWIM started doing extractions, there was a problem finding a concise well explained teks. Firstly, the recrystalization and sodium carbonate washing were rarely a part of the STB teks. Also, the explanations of how to do things were very poor (for example, 'separate this', 'do that'). So I thought maybe giving tips how to separate and so on would help people from making mistakes and saving time. Also an important addition that was not featured on some teks were warnings about caustic soda and solvent.

I also tried to explain in the steps what is happening, why they are doing what they do. So basically have in one tek the things I needed to copy and paste from loads of teks, plus all the little tips learned by experience. Just thought it might be useful as a more concise updated well explained one.. But if you really feel that it is indeed redundant and that the material is more than explained in many already concise teks, then thank you for your review, I will not spread it anymore around

as for beaker, I will change that.. English is not my first language so sometimes I make funny mistakes

 

[Noman]

as for beaker, I will change that.. English is not my first language so sometimes I make funny mistakes

Hey man no offence - I was just sayin'

Anyway, the point of the lye in a STB is to dissolve the bark so that the alks are available to the NP.
With an A/B, you just need to hit a pH (13.5) that converts the salts to alks - they've already been removed from the plant material by the acid cook.
My friend in Antarctica did extensive testing and found that a gram of lye per gram of bark was needed to break down the bark in the course of an evening.

And dont let me stop you from putting this out there - if you find that this helpful, I'm sure that others will too.
I was mostly just grouchy after reading another of El Bong's insufferables.

 

[endlessness]

as for beaker, I will change that.. English is not my first language so sometimes I make funny mistakes

Hey man no offence - I was just sayin'

Anyway, the point of the lye in a STB is to dissolve the bark so that the alks are available to the NP.
With an A/B, you just need to hit a pH (13.5) that converts the salts to alks - they've already been removed from the plant material by the acid cook.
My friend in Antarctica did extensive testing and found that a gram of lye per gram of bark was needed to break down the bark in the course of an evening.

And dont let me stop you from putting this out there - if you find that this helpful, I'm sure that others will too.
I was mostly just grouchy after reading another of El Bong's insufferables.

yeah dont worry I know there was no offence at all with the words written and not spoken, one doesnt get the intonation of the other, but I was happy with your response, totally constructive.. it was just el ka bong that dissapointed me a bit

as for the gram of bark, when you mean 1g per 1g of bark, you mean with powdered bark or pieces? because I guess that makes a whole lot of difference, heh?

I ask this because I am sure SWIY has extracted many more times than SWIM, and SWIM has full respect for your opinion, but in any case SWIM was quite happy with the yield and purity using that amount of lye with powdered rootbark. Maybe the rootbark was just very very good and SWIM could have got even more. What you think, isnt 0,9% in average of white spice over a few extractions is a good indication that the amounts do work ?

 

[Noman]

if you find that this helpful, I'm sure that others will too

Hawhaw - and English is my only language!

.9 is a great yield, I won't argue with success.
The Antarctican powders his own bark - maybe with the prepowdered less lye is required.
Maybe its just really great bark - next time do your procedure as normal and then throw in some more lye and see if you pull significantly more spice.

 

[XENONSION]

the bark pictured in the original post..isn't really what i would call powdered.

I'm not sure on your liquid amounts, but fine powder usually needs more liquid versus chopped pieces. May want to clarify that in your write-up, in case anyone has trouble when using the powder

Finely chopped

Powdered

 

[XENONSION]

Also there is something wrong with step 3.

3- Measure 200/250 liters of naphta, throw it in the pot. You must mix without shaking strong. Use different forms of mixing, like:
• Stir with some object (stainless steel spoon for example)
• Close well the lid and turn the pot upside down, turning it back up again, then upside down again, and so on.
• Lay the pot in horizontal position and roll it on the floor/table

 

[Noman]

I read right over that typo!
Yeah 200 liters of naptha might take quite a while to evaporate.
Maybe that's where the high yield comes from though.

 

[endlessness]

the bark pictured in the original post..isn't really what i would call powdered.

I'm not sure on your liquid amounts, but fine powder usually needs more liquid versus chopped pieces. May want to clarify that in your write-up, in case anyone has trouble when using the powder

the liquid amount was about 2l for 250 bark, which is more water per bark than lazy tek but less water than noman and some other teks..

indeed the picture I posted seems more pieces than powder, but it was actually mostly some very fine powder, and some of these thin fibrous material, which misleadingly show up more on the pic

Also there is something wrong with step 3.

I read right over that typo!
Yeah 200 liters of naptha might take quite a while to evaporate.
Maybe that's where the high yield comes from though.

if I may ask, what is wrong with that? you think its too much?

it is indeed quite a lot of naphta, but what SWIM reasoned is that this naphta wouldnt be wasted, since the method that SWIM ended up prefering to use was freeze precipitation, where one would, say, evaporate to half (so 100ml in the end), then freeze precipitate and then reuse the naphta. This way with that amount of naphta, one would guarantee to in each pull have enough naphta to make the passage of the dmt to it easy, plus be easy for separation, and also with reusing half of it for the next pull, it would be a safe and reasonable technique

what do you guys think?

 

[XENONSION]

bro...you do realize you wrote LITERS???

200 liters...is about 44 gallons of naptha.

 

[XENONSION]

the bark pictured in the original post..isn't really what i would call powdered.

I'm not sure on your liquid amounts, but fine powder usually needs more liquid versus chopped pieces. May want to clarify that in your write-up, in case anyone has trouble when using the powder

the liquid amount was about 2l for 250 bark, which is more water per bark than lazy tek but less water than noman and some other teks..

indeed the picture I posted seems more pieces than powder, but it was actually mostly some very fine powder, and some of these thin fibrous material, which misleadingly show up more on the pic

My point was that the fine powder requires more liquid then the fibrous chop bits do. I have found that the fine powder needs about 20-25ml of water per gram of bark. (noman tek calls for 15ml i believe) using not enough water, you will end up with a sludge that won't want to seperate very well.

But this is just from my trials and experiences. Others may differ of course.

 

[Noman]

Yeah the lazy tek doesn't grind the bark at all, so less water would be needed.
My friend is working with shredded bark right now and 15ml per is fine but everyone I've talked to has had to go with 1.5 - 2X that for finely powdered bark.
That naptha quantity slould be mililiters not liters.

 

[happyhighbunny]

heh for as much as El Ka Bong talks and is paranoid about lye eating one must think you are the one who once ate some lye lol.

If u get any lye/black mix into your evap dish or jar it's quite easy to see as black specs of stuff on the bottom of the jar, and this is easy to separate as u can just pour the naptha into another jar and the black stuff stays there.

Guess just some people have nothing better to do than try to prove how their method is better. It's an ego thing especially when u blast the other methods with labels such as lye-eaters. And I thought psyhedelics and espsically dmt was suppose to shatter egos?

Guess El Ka Bong has been extracting some pretty weak stuff, my advice El Ka Bong, add more lye!.

 

[El Ka Bong]

Ok being 'concise' - this is a forum, and although I repeat myself, STB tek's are for making pulp, not pure dmt. The question was for feed back, no..?

Yes ! I have had lye-contaminated dmt .. Let's see a show of hands for who else has made that mistake.! You can taste it and see it, and the trip is not-good. The lye came from improper timing when basifying, and heating the basified+NP mixture.

"psychedelic lessons' .. .? huh ..!? maybe they taught me to not be a namby-pamby around bad-ideas and misinformation - I am intending to show the truth about bad chemistry ... like telling folks to aim for a 'pH of more than 14', and a tek that is a 'caveman' approach to extracting alkaloids.

I am on auto-pilot with this topic - I shoot my load and then all is back to normal, you'll get used to skipping my posts if the things I say annoy. I have no ego at stake, I just think it's a risky method, and it always forces you to wash. Yeilds as high as 0.9% are excellent - if you washed and got this even better !

An A-B method, paying close attention to pH's, would require no washing and therefore give higher yeild - 1.0 % I bet.


I too thought that grinding looked light - not 'pulverized' ... but 'chunky' is what the stb tek calls for, no...?

ISTB teks are really good for making pulp - digesting chunks of bark, but that's about it, I say - look here

Caveman to Chemist Projects: Paper

Scroll down into the section of "chemical pulping" There's the stb-principle at work ... !

Or read about "black lye" here, it's the same jet-black stuff we seek to make:

http://www.energymanagertraining.com/pulp_paper/pdf/Paper%20Making%20Process004.pdf

To get an alkaloid out of MHRB, at high yeild rates and high purity you don't go 'chemical-pulp-mill' on it - there are more refined, and safer ways.

 

[Noman]

Yes ! I have had lye-contaminated dmt .. Let's see a show of hands for who else has made that mistake.!

Hear hear!
Show of hands of those who magically made NaOH soluable in NP solvent!

 

[Entropymancer]

I'm inclined to agree with Noman on this one.

SWIM's experience is solely with STB extractions, and SWIM has seen no indication that NaOH can be made soluble in naphtha under any conditions. The only way to get lye in the spice is to pipette some of the aqueous basic phase into your NP container. And for anyone worried about NaOH contamination, a mild polar wash eliminates the problem.

As El Ka Bong notes, STB teks are very good for making pulp. What he doesn't seem to comprehend is that this is a good thing for extracting the relatively insoluble DMT freebase.

SWIM is contemplating some experimentation with coldwater phosphoric acid/base extractions, but until the results are in, he has to say that he found STB a very effective method for mimosa rootbark.

 

[El Ka Bong]

If the yeild is maximal, purity high, and it works the wonders we want then great ! I am not out to win any argument.

But after people using STB teks, I have heard of too many 'why does dmt burn' stories, too many 'bad trip' coincidences with questionable quality dmt, that I gotta say - it's more likely that with an STB tek people will get lye-contamination - noobs be warned !

STB may be a tecnique to 'beat' every last molecule out of the bark, or for recycling the MHRB mash from A-B, but once the MHRB is ground to dust most of the 'hard work' for getting dmt out is done. Acid water renders it soluble right away - that is my only real hang-up - people don't solubilize right away.

Funny @!..Maybe I want everyone to show more respect to the molecule..!. Solubilize her gently out of the bark ! Give her a home..! Make her safe from assailants like heat, O2, oxidizing and hydrolysing compounds ...

And speaking of how does NaOH get into naphtha, I once pointed out how an NaOH solution (in water) placed next to a naphtha layer is chemically much different than trying to 'dissolve' lye pellets in naphtha - this was a hand-waving explanation, but an IR or NMR machine could prove it. I also would like to hear/see an expert explain the bad results swim had made - they were laden with lye !

So now I'm curious, maybe it is all a neurotic, 'chemical-paranoia' I have of ever encountering 'bad' spice again ..!? Have we or have we not experienced the taste and/or effects of lye-contaminated dmt - who else knows the 'flavour' or the disappointment ? Although it would be hard to prove (you won't want to try a bad batch again !), maybe this should be a poll.

I went looking for a chemistry factoid link, but only came up with this one - see the first, intro paragraph, never mind all the rest of the druggie lore, since our 'freebase' of choice is a tryptamine, stuck in bark ...

Free base - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org