Alien DMT Tek up for reviews too :)

[endlessness]

So, SWIM has been extracting from mimosa lately, and before that, he had trouble finding a propper tek that explained everything. It was always 'mix this, separate that', but it never explained properly how to do that. Also many steps were missing, like recrystalization or washing, so swim had to read many teks

So SWIM decided to write his own tek after a few experiences, and wants to know what you guys think. SWIM tried to add tips, better explanations and some pics to make it a nice easy good yield good purity straight to base tek. Please tell me what you guys think




Alien Simple DMT Extraction Tek

Equipment


• 150 grams of MHRB (mimosa hostilis root bark). Preferably powder.
• Pipette or turkey baster (preferably one big 20ml and one small 3 or 5ml. Can also be just one of 10 or 5ml)
• 2,5 liters distilled Water (preferably. If not, can be tap water)
• Big Becker (600ml)
• Small Becker (50ml)
• Wide pyrex baking dish (like the ones to make lasagna)
• Big 3l glass pot/container with closeable lid (can´t be aluminium top, preferably stainless steel top, but can be plastic top) Alternatively, container can be big HDPE plastic jug
• Small water bottle (500ml)
• A few normal drinking glasses/marmelade jars
. small shot glass (tequila style)
• Funnel, preferably glass or stainless steel.
• Razor blade and/or scalpel
• Kitchen Wrap
• Protection Gloves
• Protection glasses/goggles
• Protective Mask (like the doctor ones)
• pH measuring/litmus paper (optional, but can help a lot)
• Thermometer (optional. ideally one that measures up to 100 degrees celcius, but a normal body temperature thermometer already helps a bit)
• Scale (optional, but helps a lot. Preferably accurate to at least 0.1g)

• 1 liter of solvent (preferably Naphta, but also hexane/heptane)
• 150 grams of caustic soda/lye/Sodium Hydroxide/NaOH
• Just a pinch of sodium Carbonate/washing soda (optional, but helps for a purer product)

All quantities above are for a 150 MHRB extraction. For different quantities, adjust proportionally the amount of solvent, caustic soda and water. Dont do more than 200g mimosa in each 3,2l pot or it will be too thick. Ideal is to use at most 150g per big 3,2l pot

READ EVERYTHING BEFORE STARTING, TO UNDERSTAND THE PROCESS


WARNING:
1-Sodium Hydroxide can blind and cause severe burns in the skin. Always wear protective material. In case of contact with skin, throw vinegar to neutralize and then wash properly with water and soap. Sodium Hydroxide in contact with water generates a lot of energy. If a drop of water falls in a quantity of NaOH, the reaction can cause flying pieces of dangerous material. That´s why caustic soda must always be mixed with water (gradually), and not the other way around
2-Solvent is flammable/explosive, so always use it only in well ventilated área. Certify there is no flame or possible sparks around. Avoid breathing the vapour too much.

Extraction

Put on protective equipment (gloves, goggles and mask)

1- Put 2,5 liters of distilled water in the big pot. Gradually mix 110 grams of NaOH to the water, stiring well the whole time (so no heat accumulates in one spot and breaks the glass) until it disappears in water. Wait 15 minutes for the water to cool a little bit. If you have a pH paper, measure the pH of the water. It should be 14 or more. (this step is important because dmt is in salt form inside the MHRB. We want it to turn it to freebase form, which will be soluble in the solvent, and this happens with a high pH)


2- Throw all the powdered MHRB in the pot and mix for 10 minutes. The mimosa must become black. If the mimosa is not powdered but only in pieces, then leave it for an hour or 2.

.
3- Measure 200/250 ml of naphta, throw it in the pot. You must mix without shaking strong. Use different forms of mixing, like:
• Stir with some object (stainless steel spoon for example)
• Close well the lid and turn the pot upside down, turning it back up again, then upside down again, and so on.
• Lay the pot in horizontal position and roll it on the floor/table

Now the dmt will be going to the naphta, so that’s why the naphta must get in contact with as much mimosa mix as possible.
Normally, the naphta should separate from the rest like water and oil, forming a clear layer on top. It is not recommended to shake strongly because it could prevent good separation, forming an emulsion that does not break. If an emulsion is formed, wait for some time, an hour or 2. If it still doesn’t help at all, you can use other techniques like: soft hits on the side of the pot, letting warm water run through the side of the pot (always careful with flames) or even throwing a bit of salt in the mixture.


So do the mixing for 10 minutes, leave another 10 or 15 minutes for the layers to separate, mix again for 10 minutes, and so on for an hour. Ocasionaly open the pot lid to prevent building up of pressure

4- Now its time to do a pull, separating the naphta from the rest. Each one finds their own way. The form we found to be easier and save time was to (with gloves, obviously) hold an empty drinking glass upright and sink it inside the ´mimosa mix+naphtha layer on top´ slowly, as if you are filling up a glass of water in the pool. This way, when the top of the glass goes under the liquid, the liquid will start going in the glass. As the nafta layer is the one on top, it will be the first to go in. Pay attention looking at the pot. The nafta layer will get thinner as it goes into the cup. As it arrives at the black liquid (or just before), pull the cup up. If there is a bit of naphta still on top of the black liquid, don’t worry because you will be doing another pull later on.
When you take out the cup, it will be full of the black liquid around the outside, so leave a cloth on the table and put it on top of it. Then just use the cloth to clean the outside of the glass. If there is some of the black liquid in the glass, don’t worry either. Now it will be much easier to separate the naphta to another place because the glass, being thinner than the big container, will make the naphta layer thicker. So use the pipette to separate the naphta, putting in another clean glass (and put plastic wrap on top of it to prevent evaporation for now)

5-(Optional) To guarantee there is no residue of the caustic soda in your product, you can make this easy step. Measure 50ml of water with the small beaker and throw a pinch of sodium carbonate in it. It´s very little carbonate that you use, less than a pinch of salt, just a few grains. Wait for it to dissolve in the water, and measure the pH if you have the pH paper. It must be ideally at 8,5, not less, and at most 9,5. Now put this water in the small bottle of water. Then also put in the water bottle with the help of a funnel the naphta you had separated in the last step. Shake well (this time no emulsions form). Now its time to separate again the naphta. As the layer of water stays on the bottom and is smaller than the naphta layer, its easier to take it off first. You can go with the pipette all the way to the bottom and suck it up (better to take it all out even with a tiny bit of naphta in the end just to make sure there is no more of the water). You can discard this water. Then put the clean naphta in another container, close it with plastic wrap again to prevent evaporation.

6- Put another 200ml of naphta in the big pot, repeating steps 3,4 (and 5). You should make in total at least 4 pulls, to make sure you got most of the dmt out. The last pull the naphtha should be heated (in a water bath, no flames near) before mixing, to guarantee getting the alkaloids out

7- Now its time to take out the dmt from the naphta. You can do this in 2 different ways (you can also divide the naphta in 2 and try both ways at the same time to see which one works for you). SWIM definitely recommends the 7b :

7a – Evaporation – Put all the naphta you separated into the baking glass pan and let the naphta evaporate (do it in a ventilated area, ideally outside, because the vapor is flammable). Put a fan in front will accelerate the process, but if you do that, cover the pan with a light thin cloth to prevent insects or dirt from falling in the pan. Also, slow evaporation yields nicer crystals according to some reports.

The naphta evaporates relatively fast, but the final part of it takes long, when there is an oily thin layer. Be patience, let it evaporate for a day or 2. There should be some crystal formations around the pan. It might seem very little at first, because its all spread out. Scrape the crystals with the razor/scalpel, and put them on top of a coffee filter (only if they are not oily anymore) or better in the sides of a plate to dry completely.

Or

7b – Freeze Precipitation – Evaporate part of the naphta (if there was 200ml, evaporate to for example 50ml). The naphta will get cloudy, which is a good sign. Now cover the container (which might be a glass, a marmalade jar or in our case, a small glass bowl) with two layers of kitchen wrap and put it in the freezer (the colder the better). After 1 whole day, there should form crystals on the sides and bottom of the container.

Now here´s the deal: Most of the dmt will be stuck, very little will be floating. So one can proceed in a number of ways to get the crystals.. One of them is to So take it out of the freezer and quickly scrape the sides and bottom of the container with some knife or scalpel or something.. If you are quick (under a minute) The naphtha will still be cold, so the scraped dmt wont be re-absorbed, it will just be floating around on the naphta.. Then what you have to pour the naphtha with the floating suspended dmt through the filter .. The naphtha will pass through and the dmt will be on top of the filter.. So now just open the filter up, spread the dmt a bit and let it dry properly (careful the wind or something doesnt blow it away).. There may be some rests of dmt still in the glass that was in the fridge, that wasnt properly scraped.. scrape those rests and also put it on top of the coffee filter.. When its dried, its ready to use. Dont throw the naphtha away, it can be reused, either throwing it back in the mimosa mix for another pull, or just keeping it for some extraction later in the future (or just evaporate it completely to retrieve any possible leftover dmt in it)..

The other method of retrieving the crystals from the freeze precipitated container is to take it out of the freezer, quickly pour out the naphtha, and then turn the container upside down, but with some sort of support on one side so that it stays tilted and with air coming in.. Then put put a fan reasonably close to it so that there is more air coming in.. I suggest this ´tilted, upside down´ thing because IF you just leave it standing up normally to finish drying, then its possible that the little solvent trapped between the crystals, as it warms up, starts melting the crystals. Then what happens is it all slides to the bottom of the container where an oily layer forms which refuses to completely dry and crystalize (maybe also due to possible water dropplets that condensed due to cold temperature of the container, and slided down together). In any case, in the end, once its dry, just scrape the crystals and it´s ready.




8- (optional) Recrystallization – If the crystals are too dark, brown, impure in some way or if you chose to go the evaporating route and the result of the scraping is too oily and does not crystallize even after a full day, then you can do this process to clean it. The point of this step is that warm just enough naphtha to be saturated and dissolve the dmt, but not the impurities

Weight the amount of dmt you want to clean up, and put it in a thin container (shot glass works perfect, normal thin drinking glass can work too). Heat up a normal pot of water. Put out the flames before it boils (about 70 degrees). Add 25ml of naphtha per gram of dmt in the container with the dmt, and put the bottom of the glass inside the warm water (don’t let water go inside the container, and be careful with the very flammable hot solvent flames). Move/swirl the glass a little bit, so naphta moves around.
After a couple of minutes, the whole dmt will be dissolved, but probably a layer of some goo will remain at the bottom. This is mostly impurities. You should simply pour the naphta into another container (or better, pull it out with a pippete) leaving the goo behind. Add another, say, 5ml of naphtha to the goo and suck it back up again, just to guarantee you got basically everything of the dmt. Just take as much as you can without pulling the goo up together. If there is a tiny bit left, its no problem..
Now with the cleaner naphtha, close the container with double layer plastic wrap and put it to cool to room temperature for an hour. Then stick it in the fridge for another hour, and then in the freezer (the colder the better). Just like the freeze precipitation, you leave this for a day in the freezer, and the pure crystals will form in the side/bottom of the glass. Remove the glass from the freezer, scrape the crystals off the sides, and pour the naphtha+crystals through a coffee filter, and quickly pour the naphta out (you can reuse this naphta voilá, you have very pure dmt crystals to smoke





Powdered Mimosa

Notice the dark colour of the Water+NaOH and Mimosa mix. This means the pH is high enough.

Naphtha separates from the rest like oil and water

Crystals forming with the evaporation of the naphtha in the baking pan. There is still oily matter that must evaporate more.

Light Yellow crystals scraped from evaporation pan

Even purer white crystals from the freeze precipitation

 

[DrParadox]

El Ka: I remember reading your explanation. It is certainly plausible that if water is at all soluble in naphtha then some lye could be living there. (SWIM told me there is a cocaine purification TEK involving acetone in which one must be careful to make sure the the acetone is completely anhydrous first so the cocaine doesn't sneakily hide in there.)

So the question then becomes: Is water at all soluble in naphtha?

In any case, it looks doing a wash with sodium carbonate + water is going to pick up the lye anyway, so do you think that adding that simple step to the STB TEKs would eliminate your residual lye concerns?

 

[acolon_5]

For me at least, there is a big difference between unwashed, rextalized STB (or even A/B basified to 13+pH) and A/B pulled at 11.5pH

I was not a believer until I tried both ways though. Not sure if it is NaOH or what, but with STB, even after a rextalization the spice burns the tounge when a little is placed on it. Quite caustic. DMT from an A/B at ~11.5 does not do that. It is bitter, but not screamingly caustic.

The smoke is very different as well. A/B at 11.5 doesn't burn anything like my first (and only) STB. I have trouble getting a good experience now with anything, so I cannot comment on the difference in experience.

Just chiming in with my thoughts. Never done a STB with a baking soda wash, but have had great success washing some of my older spice pulled at 12.5-13.00pH. It seems to work best when the DMT is still dissolved in the naptha.

Again, just my $0.02

 

[endlessness]

bro...you do realize you wrote LITERS???

200 liters...is about 44 gallons of naptha.

LOL, very stupid me, sorry about that.. I obviously meant milliliters

My point was that the fine powder requires more liquid then the fibrous chop bits do. I have found that the fine powder needs about 20-25ml of water per gram of bark. (noman tek calls for 15ml i believe) using not enough water, you will end up with a sludge that won't want to seperate very well.

But this is just from my trials and experiences. Others may differ of course.

Yeah indeed you´re not the first person I hear this from... but for some reason it was separating quite well in all the few extractions SWIM has been doing.. So either there is some other variable we are not considering that makes the difference, or I dont know what

Ok being 'concise' - this is a forum, and although I repeat myself, STB tek's are for making pulp, not pure dmt. The question was for feed back, no..?

Yes, now imo you are talking much more sensibly, Im happy for that.

So, what do you mean by ´pulp´? You mean just some kind of concentrate, as opposed to pure dmt, right?

Ok, I understand that the usual ´lazyman´ tek might indeed yield only that, and maybe from noobish attempts, anecdotes and random ´crude´ experiences, you get your argument of ´pulp´ from.

But with the washing step and the freeze precipitation and if needed recrystalization, it DOES come out pure dmt, clear clear crystals, which one could not claim its only pulp. So at least to himself, SWIM proves your argument to be invalid if the whole thing is done right.

"psychedelic lessons' .. .? huh ..!? maybe they taught me to not be a namby-pamby around bad-ideas and misinformation - I am intending to show the truth about bad chemistry ... like telling folks to aim for a 'pH of more than 14', and a tek that is a 'caveman' approach to extracting alkaloids.

Maybe let me make clear what I meant by ´psychedelic lessons´. I didnt mean to sound as if I think im ´superior´, but I honestly think all these substances are of great value and bring important insights that should be translated into action. One of these insights that seem to be very important and a base of the whole ´entheogenic teaching´, at least imo, is respect and understanding to others. This seemed to be very much missing in the way you answered. Getting angry and responding as a reaction happens with me too, with all of us, its an eternal struggle. It´s just that I felt in that moment you could gain something if I pointed it out to you.

I am on auto-pilot with this topic - I shoot my load and then all is back to normal, you'll get used to skipping my posts if the things I say annoy. I have no ego at stake, I just think it's a risky method, and it always forces you to wash. Yeilds as high as 0.9% are excellent - if you washed and got this even better !

I dont like ignoring people, preffer creating a nice relationship even if I have totally opposite views with that person.

If you think its a risky method, I respect you, but I still am missing hearing from you a good argument ´why´ it would be more risky than any other method, if one would do the simple and problem-solving step of washing with carbonate soda

An A-B method, paying close attention to pH's, would require no washing and therefore give higher yeild - 1.0 % I bet.

Well then if both ways will give similar results (or so it seems), except one requires acidifying before, boiling and all those steps, and another simply requires a quick washing, then the choice for me seems quite obvious... From the researches i´ve been making, indeed the AB method seems very necessary for any plant appart from mimosa, but the special case of mimosa seems to work very well with STB+washing

Just for noting, a friend of SWIM always does the AB method, and it was arranged that both SWIM and him will show each other the techniques and make side by side, so an accurate objective comparison can be made.

To get an alkaloid out of MHRB, at high yeild rates and high purity you don't go 'chemical-pulp-mill' on it - there are more refined, and safer ways.

not to be repeating but SWIM had both high yields, high purity and felt it was totally safe way...

Funny @!..Maybe I want everyone to show more respect to the molecule..!. Solubilize her gently out of the bark ! Give her a home..! Make her safe from assailants like heat, O2, oxidizing and hydrolysing compounds ...

Well, morals aside, I think respect is shown in many other ways, and I think SWIM has full respect for it. I dont think in an objective ethical sense AB is more respectful than STB.

And speaking of how does NaOH get into naphtha, I once pointed out how an NaOH solution (in water) placed next to a naphtha layer is chemically much different than trying to 'dissolve' lye pellets in naphtha - this was a hand-waving explanation, but an IR or NMR machine could prove it. I also would like to hear/see an expert explain the bad results swim had made - they were laden with lye !

Yes even if macroscopically NaOH solution is totally insoluble, one could still consider the possibility of ions of NaOH being in the naphta (Im an ignorant person chemical-wise, so forgive if im saying crap). That is why SWIM performs the washing up. You seem to use it as an argument that we ´HAVE´ to perform washing, but its not any better argument than if I said ´well, you HAVE to acidify´.. Sure for certain results, certain steps have to be made. The question is, are there any disadvantages in these steps? I can tell you, from SWIM´s experience, there is absolutely no problem with washing with carbonate soda, its safe, it makes sure there is no lye, there is no lost of spice and its a very quick and easy step.

In any case, it looks doing a wash with sodium carbonate + water is going to pick up the lye anyway, so do you think that adding that simple step to the STB TEKs would eliminate your residual lye concerns?

thats what I thought

For me at least, there is a big difference between unwashed, rextalized STB (or even A/B basified to 13+pH) and A/B pulled at 11.5pH

I was not a believer until I tried both ways though. Not sure if it is NaOH or what, but with STB, even after a rextalization the spice burns the tounge when a little is placed on it. Quite caustic. DMT from an A/B at ~11.5 does not do that. It is bitter, but not screamingly caustic.

The smoke is very different as well. A/B at 11.5 doesn't burn anything like my first (and only) STB. I have trouble getting a good experience now with anything, so I cannot comment on the difference in experience.

Just chiming in with my thoughts. Never done a STB with a baking soda wash, but have had great success washing some of my older spice pulled at 12.5-13.00pH. It seems to work best when the DMT is still dissolved in the naptha.

I didnt feel any any any throat burning at all.. I will try put spice in the tongue to see if it burns the tongue.. I guess this test can also be done by putting water in a bit of spice and ph-measuring it. Will do that very soon, but im sure with the sodium carbonate, this problem is removed (thats why, maybe this step is crucial for making STB teks good.. btw, not baking soda, but washing soda... baking soda, or sodium bicarbonate, seems to make some problems for people like lost of spice and so on)

 

[DrParadox]

but have had great success washing some of my older spice pulled at 12.5-13.00pH. It seems to work best when the DMT is still dissolved in the naptha.

What were you washing with?

 

[El Ka Bong]

Everyone will vary things in these recipes, but I take the easiest route aiming for high yeild and purity. I feel there is no need to wash, and no need for heat if using the A-B tek, keeping a close eye on pH's. This involves fewer steps to get pure dmt.

I say "Pulp" as in pulp-and-paper making, where giant mills make pulp from trees by cooking them in a lye-stew to free up the cellulose fibres. STB's work well if you don't have a grinder !

I think the A-B tek will fade into history, people will forget about solubilizing dmt in water, and folks will become accustomed to lye-stew teks which are frought with 'caveman' chemistry pitfalls (I concur with Acolon5 re lye-in-spice, if you don't wash).

Endlessone, this effort of yours to post another pulping-tek is what I have been noticing - nobody promotes the A-B method, nobody knows the difference, and details are ignored for making sure-fire, pure spice.

 

[adrian89987]

ok so it's final
it's of your OPINION that you think A-B is easier
some other people have the OPINION that STB is easier

And as for the whole pulp analogy. It's kind of like saying, well NaOH is used for cleaning drains, so it can't possibly be used for anything else.

 

[acolon_5]

but have had great success washing some of my older spice pulled at 12.5-13.00pH. It seems to work best when the DMT is still dissolved in the naptha.

What were you washing with?

I used a very cold, saturated baking soda solution. Used only about 20-30ml of the water on about 100ml of naphtha containing ~2.1grams of spice. Gave it a few swirls, and left it in for about 1 minute total. ~2.0grams came back after total evap. It came out crystalline, no apparent traces of the baking soda. I don't usually do this for 11.5pH pulled xtals, but to each his/her own.

The main reason I do A/B is to keep the oil contamination down.