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Another look at Psilocybe Cubensis cultivation

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ime when you hold the jar in your hand while the air around it is not warmer than your hands but the jar is warmer, they show the most healthy growth
that'd be 27.3C (or whatever) , having been through a heat shock this year and having to salvage and re-healthify (theres probably a term for healing damaged genetics) i've sort of seen that 30C incubation was very slowly giving me weaker mycelium , and lower quality fruit body/flushes
but in the past i've always had better results with mycelium growing in a moderate condition
so this is all anecdotal but so is this whole tek so :p
i agree with what you said, 81f as incubation temp should be used not to stress the genetics specially if its a northern genetic and not heat resistant
 
Espurrr said:
ime when you hold the jar in your hand while the air around it is not warmer than your hands but the jar is warmer, they show the most healthy growth
that'd be 27.3C (or whatever) , having been through a heat shock this year and having to salvage and re-healthify (theres probably a term for healing damaged genetics) i've sort of seen that 30C incubation was very slowly giving me weaker mycelium , and lower quality fruit body/flushes
but in the past i've always had better results with mycelium growing in a moderate condition
so this is all anecdotal but so is this whole tek so :p
i agree with what you said, 81f as incubation temp should be used not to stress the genetics specially if its a northern genetic and not heat resistant
Click to expand...

You make an interesting point about northern genetics, so for the sake of preserving genetics, it would be better to incubate at colder temps, say 76 - 78f and fruit even lower for the highest potency / density possible?
 
You make an interesting point about northern genetics, so for the sake of preserving genetics, it would be better to incubate at colder temps, say 76 - 78f and fruit even lower for the highest potency / density possible?
Click to expand...
came back with more experiments run, take a look at the updated tek
 
bump, i'd be grateful if members reading this would give this tek a try and document it visually as best as they can, and upload it here, i'll be answering any problems you guys might run into or any questions you might have and at the same time the tek will get a bit more attention and hopefully spread to result in very high yields and potent mushrooms, all the while you enjoy the fruits of your labor
thank you
dedicated to the mushroom and all of its patrons
 
Those agar pics are amazing :thumb_up:

So are you suggesting this as an end to end tek? I’m having trouble seeing it as advanced mycology or anything I could test. Maybe I misunderstood your question.

All methods you suggest are pretty solid and proven, and I agree the casing layer isn’t worth the time and contamination risk.
 
Your fruits look absolutely divine! :thumb_up:

Do you think this technique yields especially potent mushrooms? They look healthy. Have you compared this method to a simpler one, for example using regular malt extract agar (MEA) and a simple grain spawn to coir, vermiculite and gypsum (CVG)?

It seems like your method is nutrient rich and full of subtle details in how to keep potency.

I don't think it is necessary to spawn in laminar flow or still air as spawning into a tub will never be sterile and doesn't need to be. But that's a minor point.

In my location (central Europe) it takes 36 hours or so to get the fruits cracker dry using a dehydrator, it would take longer if no heat was used. I've often fantasized about using a lyophilizer before vacuum sealing with desiccant for the ultimate high potency preservation.
 
SinysterKyd said:
Those agar pics are amazing :thumb_up:

So are you suggesting this as an end to end tek? I’m having trouble seeing it as advanced mycology or anything I could test. Maybe I misunderstood your question.

All methods you suggest are pretty solid and proven, and I agree the casing layer isn’t worth the time and contamination risk.
Click to expand...

hi there :)
overall my target audience are people who have grown their own mushrooms before and are interested in further expanding their efforts, there is nothing advanced about this tek as in "new, have not heard before", but it should change cubensis cultivation into a much more satisfactory and easy to spread tradition (however if someone was to post advanced protocols for cultivation we could change the name of this thread to its proper title)

Your fruits look absolutely divine! Thumbs up

Do you think this technique yields especially potent mushrooms? They look healthy. Have you compared this method to a simpler one, for example using regular malt extract agar (MEA) and a simple grain spawn to coir, vermiculite and gypsum (CVG)?

It seems like your method is nutrient rich and full of subtle details in how to keep potency.

I don't think it is necessary to spawn in laminar flow or still air as spawning into a tub will never be sterile and doesn't need to be. But that's a minor point.

In my location (central Europe) it takes 36 hours or so to get the fruits cracker dry using a dehydrator, it would take longer if no heat was used. I've often fantasized about using a lyophilizer before vacuum sealing with desiccant for the ultimate high potency preservation.
Click to expand...
hi :)
especially potent mushrooms when all measures mentioned specially the temp factor in pinning and fruiting is taken seriously are produced, im guessing up to 3% alkaloid concentration (please dont knock it until you tried it and it didn't work, writing this for all who are reading)
yes, they look healthy as that is the main factor i've been following in cultivation, health
simpler methods i've tried and the cons are: less yields, inconsistent potency between flushes, takes less time for mycelium to age, less interesting genetic mutation or expression for isolation on agar, and some others which escape my mind
true, its not necessary but when done almost 0% contamination can be a reality, and as you know single case of contamination can cause more contamination in the next grow
in terms of drier, if you manage to provide very dry air at high pressures through your drier, it takes around 24h to dry keeping in mind i had this experience at a RH of 45%, maybe yours is higher, i think the power of the fan you're using is a big factor, otherwise advanced driers or cryocure might be the better option
 
updates on the first post before i try to upload photographs for every section in the near future
 
Practical simplifications to the first post, id appreciate it if anyone would mention something left out or anything that comes to mind
 
slowly adding more pictures, hoping to come up with a more visually accurate step by step process
 
boogerz said:
Nice job Espurrr! Do those petri plates have lids on for the pics you took? Beautiful!
Click to expand...
i open them in front of the flowhood, been lacking on coming up with proper visual input for this thread but eventually someday! tho the protocol itself is what ive been tuning for some years, and is well documented
 
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