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Can anyone advice on purifecation of extracted product?

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illa

Esteemed member
I am patiently waiting to become a member so I can unveil a story of how I have an amazing stash of pure Mimosa Deems that have been my medicine... and now cannot reproduce anything close to it.

My biggest issue is I feel the presence of solvents in what I extract. I thought I made progress using a vacuum oven as I lost weight on sample studies. Beforee that it was jsut fan and air drying. But I am taking rather large doses in hopes to achieve an effect close to my stash that was obtained through another extractor and all my products have an issue and a ceiling to the high. I plan to articulate my process and problems in extensive future posts but for now am hoping anyone will answer me on what a professional chemistry lab does to de-contaminate alkaloids extracted with a solvent, please help. I have posts planned to show data on what I have learned through vacuum oven decontamination but am feeling like I need to test further before disclosing.

When I take 80+ mg hits I am perceptible to any contaminants and they disrupt my trip and I am very frustrated.

I have been using Home Depot Naptha and plan to dump some to do a visual contamination test but hoping to get some advice past that.

I took 100 Mg in 5 large hits tonight and fought off the contaminants. In my stash I got once upon a time I find God on that much and cannot understand what I am doing wrong with my extraction process. Yellow or Orange is the only way to go for spiritual connection which is Full Spectrum and the white fluff is no good in my opinion. But I can feel the effects of contaminants simply because I have a sample batch to base the comparrison off of.

If anyone is particular to decontamination processes please help me. Solvents are gross and I would like to know what labs do to prevent lingering residue.

Someone please help me been feeling loss in my progress :|
 
Your problem might be using naptha, those hydrocarbons are toxic and probably dont evaporate clean, perhaps even denatured in some way. You dont want to be vaporizing unclean stuff.

Did you just pull and evaporate? Never a good idea to just evaporate naptha, best to salt out of the solvent.

For best answer you'd want to let everyone know more details of your extaction.
 
Freebase69 said:
Your problem might be using naptha, those hydrocarbons are toxic and probably dont evaporate clean, perhaps even denatured in some way. You dont want to be vaporizing unclean stuff.

Did you just pull and evaporate? Never a good idea to just evaporate naptha, best to salt out of the solvent.

For best answer you'd want to let everyone know more details of your extaction.

Thank you for responding.
Yes I salted out but some of my issues are that I get a lot of fats and lipids when I salt out. They cause the crystals to not want to crash out. I thought I had a good method of freezing for a half hour and running through my Buchner funnel to strain these fats before crashing as they seem to coagulate and become easier to separate. I am not sure why I am getting so many waxy fats to separate in this stage, this has happened with all the teks I have tried. I am currently doing a STB method with Naptha to try to mimic what I have heard works down in Brazil where I got the best batch of spice there might ever have been. With that stash running low I am desperate to get this right.
 
As well I am using Klean Strip VM&P Naptha and was assuming this is the correct product to use. I am doing an evaporation study on it now on a clean dish to see any residue that might be left.
 
Here is the junk that comes out when I use my Buchner funnel it is waxy to the touch and undesirable for my final product. What I am searching for a is a bright yellow full spectrum final product that is obviously contaminant free. I find there are MAOI's in full spectrum that include the spirit of the tree. The pure white fluff does not have these qualities in my expereince.
 

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EVerything you see in the bottom of the jar and the top of the funnel is junk.
 
illa said:
As well I am using Klean Strip VM&P Naptha and was assuming this is the correct product to use. I am doing an evaporation study on it now on a clean dish to see any residue that might be left.

Yeah I've heard negative reports of using VM&P Naptha. Supposedly the quality of it has dropped in recent years. Maybe another brand or solvent will yield a cleaner product. Also check the Sodium hydroxide brand it might contain contaminates too.

Also does that tech conatain a defatt step in the acid phase before basification? That could explain your oily product.
 
I was wondering about both these things. If anyone has an opinion on another Naptha I am all ears.

As well I had thought to check my Lye and yes the stuff on the left I was using says 99.9% and the stuff on the right is 100% so I will make that switch to see what that does.
 

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As far as I know Naptha and Heptane are the two chemicals you can use to crash out crystals would you recomend Heptane over Naptha if the quality has gone down? What do you use and what is your final product like? I need Full Spectrum I am sure of this.
 
illa said:
As far as I know Naptha and Heptane are the two chemicals you can use to crash out crystals would you recomend Heptane over Naptha if the quality has gone down? What do you use and what is your final product like? I need Full Spectrum I am sure of this.

Is the extraction method your using contain a defatt step?
 
There's no such thing as 100% lye, nor any other chemical for that matter - if anything, the 99.9% stuff is being described more honestly. It also purports to be pharmaceutical grade rather than a drain opener so I'd suggest you stick with that.

If you can get pharmaceutical grade heptane, that would be your best option for purification of your product either through recrystallisation or mini A/B.

Another thing you might need to take a look at is your vaporisation technique. 80-100mg doses are huge and would typically approach blackout level if you're administering and absorbing them effectively. What is your sensitvity like with regard to other psychedelics? If you're not too hard-headed (nor on medication that dulls the effects) you could save a lot of precious material by getting your dosing method sorted.

Was your most recent extraction also from mimosa bark? If so, was it the same batch? The oily appearance could just as much be down to polymers and the polymorphic nature of DMT since MHRB typically doesn't contain significant amounts of oils, fats or other lipids. What do you even mean by "full spectrum" anyway? A lye+naphtha extraction is very unlike to pull any MAOIs from the bark. How do you know that the yellow waxy material is "junk"?

Have a look at the thread with the title "spice color fallacy".

Your certainty could well be deceiving you.
 
downwardsfromzero said:
There's no such thing as 100% lye, nor any other chemical for that matter - if anything, the 99.9% stuff is being described more honestly. It also purports to be pharmaceutical grade rather than a drain opener so I'd suggest you stick with that.

If you can get pharmaceutical grade heptane, that would be your best option for purification of your product either through recrystallisation or mini A/B.

Another thing you might need to take a look at is your vaporisation technique. 80-100mg doses are huge and would typically approach blackout level if you're administering and absorbing them effectively. What is your sensitvity like with regard to other psychedelics? If you're not too hard-headed (nor on medication that dulls the effects) you could save a lot of precious material by getting your dosing method sorted.

Was your most recent extraction also from mimosa bark? If so, was it the same batch? The oily appearance could just as much be down to polymers and the polymorphic nature of DMT since MHRB typically doesn't contain significant amounts of oils, fats or other lipids. What do you even mean by "full spectrum" anyway? A lye+naphtha extraction is very unlike to pull any MAOIs from the bark. How do you know that the yellow waxy material is "junk"?

Have a look at the thread with the title "spice color fallacy".

Your certainty could well be deceiving you.


Around 6omg I am taking a nice trip but not breaking through. On 80MG+ I am entering the spirit world with complete breakthroughs where I lose sense of self and kind of become one with things. My vape tek is with a specially designed bong slide and I take 5 big hits holding them for 10 seconds each. I have gone so far with this brazilian batch I have had for a while, it is about x100 better then anything I have made so far in quality.

As for the polymers, I think they trap contaminents as when they are included in a final batch they need to be vacuum ovened to dry out completely and still leave the batch with a waxy, not dry feeling. The brazilian batch I am always comparing to gets me rocked for only 5 minutes. When I started doing the Shaggy Tek the effects lasted at least double that, and most teks that leave me with a similarly looking end product also have effects that last double the duration of my brazilian batch. I assumed it was MAOI's.

I only assumed the yellow goop I am left with as bi product is junk based on its very slick and waxy consistency, as well as its ability to conjeal and not let crystals crash out when left in for precipitation.

I could be completely wrong about things as I am new. I tried a Washing Powder wash today and it definitely took things out of batches I thought were already pure.

I thought a vac oven was the move till today but now feel like re crystalization and wash teks might be what I need to do as the last step.

My issue with color is that after starting with Gordo Tek, I realized that white fluff is very bland to me. I feel alone in space when I take it. It is the opposite of brightly colored spice where I am communicating with spirits (not entities) and my brazilian spice has a very special smell to it like 5MEO which I have only acheived through STB and low heat. Doing all the other teks like Shaggy Lazyman etc does not give me that hint of smell of 5MEO which I am very used to, as I once had a lot of the 5MEO and its smell is uncanny. I have a hunch 5MEO is very finicky as I read some passages by 69RON from a while ago and might think that it takes a crude extract with low heat to save these special alkaloids. That is my hunch based on the smell. I also have a hunch that older Mimosa trees might have trace amounts of the 5MEO as I heard that my brazilian batch came from trees that were generations old. Purple Mimosas.
 
Phenethylamine23 said:
illa said:
As far as I know Naptha and Heptane are the two chemicals you can use to crash out crystals would you recomend Heptane over Naptha if the quality has gone down? What do you use and what is your final product like? I need Full Spectrum I am sure of this.

Is the extraction method your using contain a defatt step?

I tried a defat step today and had a lot of trouble with emulsion and not seperating issues. Medium heat and citric acid for the low ph. Not sure what I did wrong but after 3 hours there was still mud at the top mixed with Naptha.
 
illa said:
Phenethylamine23 said:
illa said:
As far as I know Naptha and Heptane are the two chemicals you can use to crash out crystals would you recomend Heptane over Naptha if the quality has gone down? What do you use and what is your final product like? I need Full Spectrum I am sure of this.

Is the extraction method your using contain a defatt step?

I tried a defat step today and had a lot of trouble with emulsion and not seperating issues. Medium heat and citric acid for the low ph. Not sure what I did wrong but after 3 hours there was still mud at the top mixed with Naptha.

Best to do the defatt at the very beginning on the dry powdered bark. Removing unwanted lipids is important for clean cystaline end product. Yes use low heat not extreme temperatures. Also in my opinion no need for extra acids when brewing a tea, maybe with bark it's different and some of the molecules are stored freebase, in either case go sparingly on the acids. Also when pulling with solvent from basified liquid it's more efficient with less solution to work with, therefore reducing the acid phase a great deal before basifying might help with the pulls.
 
downwardsfromzero said:
There's no such thing as 100% lye, nor any other chemical for that matter - if anything, the 99.9% stuff is being described more honestly. It also purports to be pharmaceutical grade rather than a drain opener so I'd suggest you stick with that.

If you can get pharmaceutical grade heptane, that would be your best option for purification of your product either through recrystallisation or mini A/B.

Another thing you might need to take a look at is your vaporisation technique. 80-100mg doses are huge and would typically approach blackout level if you're administering and absorbing them effectively. What is your sensitvity like with regard to other psychedelics? If you're not too hard-headed (nor on medication that dulls the effects) you could save a lot of precious material by getting your dosing method sorted.

Was your most recent extraction also from mimosa bark? If so, was it the same batch? The oily appearance could just as much be down to polymers and the polymorphic nature of DMT since MHRB typically doesn't contain significant amounts of oils, fats or other lipids. What do you even mean by "full spectrum" anyway? A lye+naphtha extraction is very unlike to pull any MAOIs from the bark. How do you know that the yellow waxy material is "junk"?

Have a look at the thread with the title "spice color fallacy".

Your certainty could well be deceiving you.

When I say Full Spectrum I am referring to any alkaloids that are also extracted that balance out the DMT. Like I said white fluff seems very singular and there is no spirit while bright yellow has a better smell that I am accustomed to and very spiritual journey, as well as the ability to balance my breathing and blood pressure at the same time. I do not get those effects from white fluff and know from the herbal world that plants present alkaloids that balance their effects when extracted in a broader range, as opposed to extracting one particular alkaloid.
 
Phenethylamine23 said:
illa said:
Phenethylamine23 said:
illa said:
As far as I know Naptha and Heptane are the two chemicals you can use to crash out crystals would you recomend Heptane over Naptha if the quality has gone down? What do you use and what is your final product like? I need Full Spectrum I am sure of this.

Is the extraction method your using contain a defatt step?

I tried a defat step today and had a lot of trouble with emulsion and not seperating issues. Medium heat and citric acid for the low ph. Not sure what I did wrong but after 3 hours there was still mud at the top mixed with Naptha.

Best to do the defatt at the very beginning on the dry powdered bark. Removing unwanted lipids is important for clean cystaline end product. Yes use low heat not extreme temperatures. Also in my opinion no need for extra acids when brewing a tea, maybe with bark it's different and some of the molecules are stored freebase, in either case go sparingly on the acids. Also when pulling with solvent from basified liquid it's more efficient with less solution to work with, therefore reducing the acid phase a great deal before basifying might help with the pulls.

Do you mind clarifying a couple things for me?

Defat before acid base or during acidic phase?

As far as "extra acids" you mean do not go over board? I am curious what you think of this high heat and ph 0 tek I listed, that uses hydrochloric acid. (that hydrocloric is crazy I measured the ph of the soup and it was zero) I know pics dont mean much but the look of what this tek achieved is the look of the stash that I have from brazil, and find so sacred, and can not reproduce without impurities. Are you referencing time allowed at low ph or how low the ph gets would be my question.


Sorry also when you refer to "less sollution" are you referring to the volume of bark or the volume of solvent?

I see alot of teks on nexus but not as much talk about what these teks achieve as far as the trip itself. As stated I see a huge difference in the trip based on the tek used, so when someone says how they feel on DMT my first thought is what tek achieved the DMT trip listed as I do find these things vary.

If you don't mind me asking what end result are you looking for in look and smell, what tek do you think is the best for what you are after, and what do you value in the experience given?

I plan to write in detail about some of my trips once a member. What I have achieved off this mystery batch I have from Brazil is direct spiritual connections, insane cinematic experiences with the brightest of colors and depictions of surreal animation, as well as healing energy. I have awoken to the aurora Borealis in my room around me. No other deeem has done even close to that.

My hardest trip sent me 1 million miles below our conscious realm, with a language spoken to me in harmonious chant that was not of this world. I got to a meditative point where I no longer needed to take breaths, and once there I tried to hold on for as long as possible. It felt like a giant fiber optic cable was opened up and sprayed me with more information than I could even come close to grasping. My breathing goes to about 4 small breaths per minute in this state, my blood pressure drops to a pace of meditational bliss and I usually awaken to my body feeling at total peace in a more than medicinal way. Good DMT is medicine to say the least. Other spice seems more recreational. Something in good deems heals me beyond belief on so many levels, and that is my motivation to figure out the extract process needed to achieve this.

Last point, my brazilian stash undoubtedly smells like 5MEO. It is from Purple Mimosa I confirmed that. It is STB I got very vague instructions on how it was made. I do not think 5MEO was added additionally I think old trees have trace amounts. Just a theory. 69Ron said that 5MEO is so difficult to extract that most testing done in the scientific world may have missed its presence based on the extraction technique used.

I have to wonder where Ron is these days he has not posted in the last decade, he seemed very smart I am sorry I missed him on the nexus.
 
There is alot of different extraction techniques and approaches to getting the desired molecules out of a variety of plant sources, and for varied reasons ie availablity of chemicals and equiptment, and for methods of administration. Honestly some of the extraction techniques seem counter intuitive and plain wrong.

For me the only reason you'd need to add an acid when extracting from natural plant sources is converting from a freebase back into an acid for the purpose of a particular extraction method for example straight to base, or some recrystalisation step.

Defatting either before water soluble extraction phase, or during would both be okay, as long as it's done before basifying, otherwise will cause emulsions and also be pulling lipids and the alkaloids at same time.

Well it depends the method of administration but if your planning on vaporizing tryptamines generally you want dry cystaline powder as end product, not oily waxy resinous goo.

Yes reducing the volume of the liquid extract can help concentrate the solution making it easier to work with and extract into solvents or precipitatation.
 
I appreciate that info as that is why I post, I don't know as much as I would like to so thank you.

I stated at the beginning of today I felt like there may be Naphta impurities in my product as I am hitting a ceiling when dosing and can feel a chemical presence on high doses.

Read a lot today and tried a sodium carbonate wash on my product I thought was pure. Was a pretty cool experiment, what I got after shaking a jar was sodium carbonate H2O on the bottom, with a middle layer of orange oil that floated in a flat state in the middle, and cloudy deem naptha on the top layer. There were most likely impurities in both the carbonate solution and the orange oil as the orange oil had a few dark specs. I decanted the top within a mm of the orange.

This all came out of a Naptha run I did STB using a Buchner funnel for filtration and using a freeze tek to defat.

I did the crash tonight will see what happens but what I might have learned is that it is impossible to get rid of impurities with even advanced filtration methods, and separation methods are key to fully filtrate. I hope.

I think the impurities I might be experiencing are from micro particles associated with the caustic lye process and hope this separation process in tangent with recrystallization gets me to where I want to be.

I really hope I am writing this well enough to be understood sometimes I read things and get confused lol.
 
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