Can anyone advice on purifecation of extracted product?

[illa]

I appreciate that info as that is why I post, I don't know as much as I would like to so thank you.

I stated at the beginning of today I felt like there may be Naphta impurities in my product as I am hitting a ceiling when dosing and can feel a chemical presence on high doses.

Read a lot today and tried a sodium carbonate wash on my product I thought was pure. Was a pretty cool experiment, what I got after shaking a jar, was sodium carbonate H2O on the bottom, with a middle layer of orange oil that floated in a flat state in the middle, and cloudy deem naptha on the top layer. There were most likely impurities in both the carbonate solution and the orange oil as the orange oil had a few dark specs. I decanted the top within a mm of the orange.

This all came out of a Naptha run I did STB using a Buchner funnel for filtration and using a freeze tek to defat.

I did the crash tonight will see what happens but what I might have learned is that it is impossible to get rid of impurities with even advanced filtration methods, and separation methods are key to fully filtrate. I hope.

I think the impurities I might be experiencing are from micro particles associated with the caustic lye process and hope this separation process in tangent with recrystallization gets me to where I want to be.

I really hope I am writing this well enough to be understood sometimes I read things and get confused lol.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

Yes, a lot of the intractable "impurities" are in fact polymerised DMT. If, using a hot water bath, you heat the naphtha (or, preferably, heptane) with the orange oil it dissolves making a dark yellow/orange solution. On cooling, the orange oil precipitates out again. The dark specks are either bark particles (which in your case I highly doubt, because you used the Buchner filter) or completely degraded DMT, which I've personally observed with prolonged heating of the orange polymer. When freebase DMT solution is left to evaporate in contact with the air it forms a dark tar with black gritty bits, even when protected from most ambient light.

Check out the "Minimum Polymer" approach for more insight into the nuances of this. Some people prefer the effects of the orange material, which is what I suspect you mean by "full spectrum" - but whether this is due to a slightly different effect from DMT oligomers or a different vaporisation profile I'm not sure any of us can say at present.

Recrystallisation from clean solvent will get rid of the majority of contaminants derived from poor naphtha. Mini A/B makes for a good clean up method for breaking up oligomers/polymers, especially if you take extra care at the basing stage.

Your writing is fine btw!

 

[illa]

Yes, a lot of the intractable "impurities" are in fact polymerised DMT. If, using a hot water bath, you heat the naphtha (or, preferably, heptane) with the orange oil it dissolves making a dark yellow/orange solution. On cooling, the orange oil precipitates out again. The dark specks are either bark particles (which in your case I highly doubt, because you used the Buchner filter) or completely degraded DMT, which I've personally observed with prolonged heating of the orange polymer. When freebase DMT solution is left to evaporate in contact with the air it forms a dark tar with black gritty bits, even when protected from most ambient light.

Check out the "Minimum Polymer" approach for more insight into the nuances of this. Some people prefer the effects of the orange material, which is what I suspect you mean by "full spectrum" - but whether this is due to a slightly different effect from DMT oligomers or a different vaporisation profile I'm not sure any of us can say at present.

Recrystallisation from clean solvent will get rid of the majority of contaminants derived from poor naphtha. Mini A/B makes for a good clean up method for breaking up oligomers/polymers, especially if you take extra care at the basing stage.

Your writing is fine btw!

Thank you so much for the info, I have a tough time grasping concepts in writing and appreciate the tek reference as well. Trying things helps me learn through experience, the way I learn best. But I re read all u stated and found a lot of knowledge from it thank you so much for taking that time.

I never took a chem class so am clueless how everyone got so smart with these processes, I come from the world of MJ and those extract methods are pretty easy in comparison to say the least. Discerning between them is the hard part. I agree some teks seem contradictory sometimes, so I hope to one day write some posts "for dummies" (this is a term with no offense intended) like myself of do's and dont's, as these things are the bottom line and sometimes not stated on the nexus. IE evaporation tek in my opinion is no good, at all.

If I had one more question it would be how do you feel about evaporation tek, with acetone, as this is the teks listed for bufotenine? I realize acetone might be a little cleaner then other solvents as they use it for clean up in labs possibly? I hate evaporation tek and not sure if there is a bufotenine tek listed that crashes out crystals but maybe I need to research that more. I saw one post with every type of crystal in jars including MEO which I cannot find a tek for, and I think bufotenine as well. I like the full spectrum so all those crystals scarred me a little but I sure was curious...

 

[illa]

There's no such thing as 100% lye, nor any other chemical for that matter - if anything, the 99.9% stuff is being described more honestly. It also purports to be pharmaceutical grade rather than a drain opener so I'd suggest you stick with that.

If you can get pharmaceutical grade heptane, that would be your best option for purification of your product either through recrystallisation or mini A/B.

Another thing you might need to take a look at is your vaporisation technique. 80-100mg doses are huge and would typically approach blackout level if you're administering and absorbing them effectively. What is your sensitvity like with regard to other psychedelics? If you're not too hard-headed (nor on medication that dulls the effects) you could save a lot of precious material by getting your dosing method sorted.

Was your most recent extraction also from mimosa bark? If so, was it the same batch? The oily appearance could just as much be down to polymers and the polymorphic nature of DMT since MHRB typically doesn't contain significant amounts of oils, fats or other lipids. What do you even mean by "full spectrum" anyway? A lye+naphtha extraction is very unlike to pull any MAOIs from the bark. How do you know that the yellow waxy material is "junk"?

Have a look at the thread with the title "spice color fallacy".

Your certainty could well be deceiving you.

Check out this link to see the colors which provide different experiences in my opinion:

This guy makes the end cleanup process simple and his product looks good.