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Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek measurements

rigpalight

Esteemed member
Hello

I will be using

Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek as a first timer but I have a question please .... I want to use more bark .... 200g instead of 50g do I have to change the other ingredients measurements or just keep it the same ?? if I have to change the measurements how should I calculate it ?

Thank you

 
I'd stick with 50g for the first time, fewer eggs in your basket if you get my drift. Also all the proportions have been worked out for you.

I'm no pro chemist, but this is what I've gathered along the way: Scaling isn't linear, don't just multiply everything.

You need enough water to keep the mix liquid and not viscous (otherwise it will hold on to your NPS more), then enough NaOH to get the ph to 12 or 13 ( there's already a heavy excess in the amount given for cybs 50g extractions, this does help reduce emulsion risk though ).

The amount of salt and NPS isn't so critical, don't scale up the NPS, otherwise there's a risk it won't saturate enough to freeze precipitate properly. Just do more pulls at 50-75ml NPS each time to eventually extract all the good stuff.

I've done 100g cybs with keeping everything the same, apart from just adding about 150ml more water to keep it flowing.

I'd also add a water wash to Cyb's tek... this just means squirting the NPS you pull off the bark soup into about 30ml clean warm water in a narrow container ( a measuring cylinder is good for this), giving it a swish, then waiting for it to settle before pipetting off the top layer into your freezing dish. This will clean out any suspended droplets of caustic bark soup that might be in the NPS. If you water wash then the re-x step is much more optional.

Oh, and invest in a pipette, they are *far* easier to use than turkey basters ( which have less fine control and will also drip NPS everywhere ) and easily available on most online stores.

good luck!
 
One of the main problems with scaling, besides extractions simply getting too large to handle comfortably, is that volume scales more rapidly than surface area. Extraction happens through the surface to surface contact of the extraction phases. It can get more difficult to achieve sufficient contact between the polar and the non-polar phase as the volume increases.
 
...
I'd also add a water wash to Cyb's tek... this just means squirting the NPS you pull off the bark soup into about 30ml clean warm water in a narrow container ( a measuring cylinder is good for this), giving it a swish, then waiting for it to settle before pipetting off the top layer into your freezing dish. This will clean out any suspended droplets of caustic bark soup that might be in the NPS. If you water wash then the re-x step is much more optional.
...

I also water wash the NPS but use saturated salt water. Read it somewhere that the salt made it harder for the DMT to go into the water. Don't know it this is unnecessary?
 
I'd stick with 50g for the first time, fewer eggs in your basket if you get my drift. Also all the proportions have been worked out for you.

I'm no pro chemist, but this is what I've gathered along the way: Scaling isn't linear, don't just multiply everything.

You need enough water to keep the mix liquid and not viscous (otherwise it will hold on to your NPS more), then enough NaOH to get the ph to 12 or 13 ( there's already a heavy excess in the amount given for cybs 50g extractions, this does help reduce emulsion risk though ).

The amount of salt and NPS isn't so critical, don't scale up the NPS, otherwise there's a risk it won't saturate enough to freeze precipitate properly. Just do more pulls at 50-75ml NPS each time to eventually extract all the good stuff.

I've done 100g cybs with keeping everything the same, apart from just adding about 150ml more water to keep it flowing.

I'd also add a water wash to Cyb's tek... this just means squirting the NPS you pull off the bark soup into about 30ml clean warm water in a narrow container ( a measuring cylinder is good for this), giving it a swish, then waiting for it to settle before pipetting off the top layer into your freezing dish. This will clean out any suspended droplets of caustic bark soup that might be in the NPS. If you water wash then the re-x step is much more optional.

Oh, and invest in a pipette, they are *far* easier to use than turkey basters ( which have less fine control and will also drip NPS everywhere ) and easily available on most online stores.

good luck!
Can I just put all the pulls in one glass pyrex instead of putting each one in a seperate one ??? I am saying this as my freezer is small and it wont fit 5 or 4 separate glass pyrex ....
 
One of the main problems with scaling, besides extractions simply getting too large to handle comfortably, is that volume scales more rapidly than surface area. Extraction happens through the surface to surface contact of the extraction phases. It can get more difficult to achieve sufficient contact between the polar and the non-polar phase as the volume increases.
thank you ..... then i will stick to 50g
 
Can I just put all the pulls in one glass pyrex instead of putting each one in a seperate one ??? I am saying this as my freezer is small and it wont fit 5 or 4 separate glass pyrex ....
Yes, although this stops you from tracking the yield for each pull, and, consequently, whether the base soup has been fully extracted. Not necessarily a problem, nor an insurmountable issue if you wanted to check since you could titrate or evaporate small samples of each pull, for example.

You could freeze precip the first pull, then re-use the naphtha for a subsequent pull. You could also have a second pull ready and waiting for when the first one comes out of the freezer. Swapping the naphtha over would save time and potentially allow you to grow bigger crystals. The depleted naphtha from the first pull can then be used for pull 3, and so on.

While it may (will) take a little longer, this "leapfrog" method also allows you to minimise the size of the precipitation vessel.
 
Yes, although this stops you from tracking the yield for each pull, and, consequently, whether the base soup has been fully extracted. Not necessarily a problem, nor an insurmountable issue if you wanted to check since you could titrate or evaporate small samples of each pull, for example.

You could freeze precip the first pull, then re-use the naphtha for a subsequent pull. You could also have a second pull ready and waiting for when the first one comes out of the freezer. Swapping the naphtha over would save time and potentially allow you to grow bigger crystals. The depleted naphtha from the first pull can then be used for pull 3, and so on.

While it may (will) take a little longer, this "leapfrog" method also allows you to minimise the size of the precipitation vessel.
I understand ..... this means if i will reuse the same solvent for all the pulls this will take me from 4 to 5 days to finish which is very long and time consuming.... so I guess it is best to just add fresh solvent for each pull and freeze them all in the same day and just number the pulls to see after freezing how much each pull yielded and then just save all the solvent from all the pulls in one jar and keep it frozen and see also if it will yield more crystals
 
Yes, although this stops you from tracking the yield for each pull, and, consequently, whether the base soup has been fully extracted. Not necessarily a problem, nor an insurmountable issue if you wanted to check since you could titrate or evaporate small samples of each pull, for example.

You could freeze precip the first pull, then re-use the naphtha for a subsequent pull. You could also have a second pull ready and waiting for when the first one comes out of the freezer. Swapping the naphtha over would save time and potentially allow you to grow bigger crystals. The depleted naphtha from the first pull can then be used for pull 3, and so on.

While it may (will) take a little longer, this "leapfrog" method also allows you to minimise the size of the precipitation vessel.
Please i want to ask what is the best way to preserve the extracted DMT ??? in the freezer and what to use ? a glass jar ??
 
Please i want to ask what is the best way to preserve the extracted DMT ??? in the freezer and what to use ? a glass jar ??
A freezer is the best place for longer term storage, based on my study. A cool dark place is a secondary option.

I recently looked into whether a filled vape cartridge would suffer harm if stored in the freezer. It did not suffer damager, nor could I detect any change in the vape cartridge contents. I did allow the cartridge a couple hours to warm up to room temperature before vaping.

I bought a bunch of two ounce borosilicate glass jars online that I have found useful both for storage and for precipitations.
Borosilicate glass is resistant to damage from both Lye and Naphtha. I removed the 'foam" lid liners, as I don't want naphtha dissolved lid crude in my extract. But otherwise these jars with their lids on never suffer harm from their time in the freezer. Largely on this account, but also because several small jars cool down faster that a single larger vessel (with thicker walls) ,after concentrating my naphtha through evaporation, I put it in those small jars for crystalization These small jars are also easier to keep out of sight in my freezer than a single larger vessel.

Regarding the reuse of Naphtha after the crystals are removed, while I can understand the cost savings of reusing Naphtha, I have not found that the naphtha I pour off post crystalization contains other than very small amounts of product. I came to this conclusion after allowing my "post crystalization" naphtha to evaporate, and examining what remains, on two occasions: a very few yellow drops. Few as in three, most recently, following two grams of crystalization

Has anyone else made investigations regarding this matter?
 
A freezer is the best place for longer term storage, based on my study. A cool dark place is a secondary option.

I recently looked into whether a filled vape cartridge would suffer harm if stored in the freezer. It did not suffer damager, nor could I detect any change in the vape cartridge contents. I did allow the cartridge a couple hours to warm up to room temperature before vaping.

I bought a bunch of two ounce borosilicate glass jars online that I have found useful both for storage and for precipitations.
Borosilicate glass is resistant to damage from both Lye and Naphtha. I removed the 'foam" lid liners, as I don't want naphtha dissolved lid crude in my extract. But otherwise these jars with their lids on never suffer harm from their time in the freezer. Largely on this account, but also because several small jars cool down faster that a single larger vessel (with thicker walls) ,after concentrating my naphtha through evaporation, I put it in those small jars for crystalization These small jars are also easier to keep out of sight in my freezer than a single larger vessel.

Regarding the reuse of Naphtha after the crystals are removed, while I can understand the cost savings of reusing Naphtha, I have not found that the naphtha I pour off post crystalization contains other than very small amounts of product. I came to this conclusion after allowing my "post crystalization" naphtha to evaporate, and examining what remains, on two occasions: a very few yellow drops. Few as in three, most recently, following two grams of crystalization

Has anyone else made investigations regarding this matter?
Thank you for all the info ..... It is my first time extracting and all my pulls are now setting in the freezer waiting for 24 hours to pass I used n-Heptane 99% pure ..... for freezing the n-heptane i used pyrex cook & freeze glass .....
 
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