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edit: My friend dyed his carpet MHRB red!

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N

newswimmer

Rising Star
Well, not intentionally, and not the whole room, just about 5 square feet of it. He was moving an old jar of 'soup', and I suppose due to etching, the jar was weak. He accidentally bumped it against the bed frame, and POOF! The jar busted wide open and soup went spilling everywhere. He quickly neutralized the spill with vinegar, and luckily had a wet vac handy, but the carpet still has a deep red tint to it. There's no telling what the landlord will think about the situation. He just resigned his lease, so I guess he's got another year till he has to deal with it.

ouch!
 
Entropymancer said:
That's a bummer. Big thumbsdown on the misspelling in the thread title though, at a glance I thought it was about a DMT-related death!:shock:
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My bad. I've fixed it. Needless to say, my friend wasn't in a calm state of mind when typing this thread.
 
newswimmer said:
He was moving an old jar of 'soup', and I suppose due to etching, the jar was weak. He accidentally bumped it against the bed frame, and POOF! The jar busted wide open and soup went spilling everywhere.
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A very good reason to use plastic containers for your extractions.
 
... or ... I'll suggest, do a tek that isn't an excercise in glass etching..! ( .. here I go ...)

If I understand correctly your friend had been doing a pulp-mill-STB type extaction...?

Either way imo, basifing a solution of MHRB extract ought to be a quick task - the dmt-freebase in lye is screaming for a safe haven, somewhere in a non polar solvent, don't torture the dmt by leavng it in there !

This is true for dmt when at a pH of > 11.5 - the pH at which it will form clathrates and become insoluble gunk, dmt starts to get contaminated and any not in a clathrate-form will degrade, oxidize etc etc ...

So I say that when basified, tumble the jars for 20 - 30 min and get the naphtha out quick - unless you're actually after some 'pulp-mill' purity in your product !
 
El Ka Bong said:
... or ... I'll suggest, do a tek that isn't an excercise in glass etching..! ( .. here I go ...)

If I understand correctly your friend had been doing a pulp-mill-STB type extaction...?

Either way imo, basifing a solution of MHRB extract ought to be a quick task - the dmt-freebase in lye is screaming for a safe haven, somewhere in a non polar solvent, don't torture the dmt by leavng it in there !

This is true for dmt when at a pH of > 11.5 - the pH at which it will form clathrates and become insoluble gunk, dmt starts to get contaminated and any not in a clathrate-form will degrade, oxidize etc etc ...

So I say that when basified, tumble the jars for 20 - 30 min and get the naphtha out quick - unless you're actually after some 'pulp-mill' purity in your product !
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No, no. He wasn't doing STB. He was doing rainbowserpent's A/B. He just left a couple of jars of 'soup' lying around, and never emptied them. They were old, probably 4-5 months old. He just never got around to emptying them.
 
haha, sorry not bout the stain

...just bout elka assuming you were doing the 'oh noes pulp mill method'
and then you were doing the a/b method
 
adrian89987 said:
haha, sorry not bout the stain

...just bout elka assuming you were doing the 'oh noes pulp mill method'
and then you were doing the a/b method
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rainbowserpent's TEK, although A/B, is pretty lye heavy. It calls for a pH of 13.5. I can see some calling it "pulp mill" as well.
 
i spilled a little bit on my carpet and then i quickly cleaned it with some soap and water... now you can barely see the spot, but during certain states of mind I've suprisingly found the spot to appear vividly colorful, and I was like "oh shit!!!" there goes my deposit!!! But then the spot faded to normal almost un-noticable again!
 
adrian89987 said:
hah I still think it was funny
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Me too, I El Ka Bong is always so ready to hate on the STB.

But for serious, let's clear up something up: El Ka said that above pH 11.5, any DMT not in clathrate structures is subject to oxidation/degradation. I don't know, that might even be true. But if it is true, then it just means that all the DMT is in clathrate structures above pH 11.5. Because the simple fact is, STB and A/B extractions both are capable of achieving the same yields with roughly the same effort.
 
Spock's Brain said:
i spilled a little bit on my carpet and then i quickly cleaned it with some soap and water... now you can barely see the spot, but during certain states of mind I've suprisingly found the spot to appear vividly colorful, and I was like "oh shit!!!" there goes my deposit!!! But then the spot faded to normal almost un-noticable again!
Click to expand...

There's a stain on my ceiling that became a large catfish and swam about one evening...
 
Oh yes .. I laugh at my self all the time .. it's good for everyone to laugh ! I think there's something cathartic in my ranting though, ... forgive me if it grates on anyone ~! .. maybe I speak for a few other skeptics too ..

Rainbow Serpent's tek ignores the fact that the pKa of dmt is 8.7 .. basifying a pH of 13.5 is just ridiculous and I say it's an error, 1000 times too much lye !. Lye-eaters are everywhere !

The moral of the story - when basifying, have an NP solvent layer already on the acid-extract before adding lye, and be quick - 30 minutes max, and then replace the NP solvent and do it two more times. All the dmt-freebase will have come out by then if using naphtha. Give the dmt-freebase a place to go, before it clumps into gunk. And why avoid filtering the stuff - how else do you assure purity..? Always filter the acid extract. In the pulp mill tek there is un-filtered sludge where clathrates are unavoidable.

For the sake of all of our understanding -I am glad to have the concept of a 'clathrate' to explain how an STB tek works ... That does work for me - it'll shut up my mistrust of the method, but I'll still have some comments about what's the 'better' way.

For eg - you will not get as clean dmt-freebase from a pulp-mill tek - and you will have to wash and lose some yield.

Filtering an acid extract, followed by quick basification, using naphtha as NP solvent makes uber-clean dmt-freebase at a yeild of 0.7 - 0.98 %. This is easy as pie, skip all freezer sep', just evaporate your NP solvent and get 0.9% yield, very pure dmt.

Derailing the thread a bit more here ... given that carpet stains can be totally eliminated with this stuff !




Do people choose the pulp-mill tek because it's supposed to be cheaper - what's going on there, what's being saved..? It used to be called the 'lazyman's tek' ... There are more steps involved (washing etc ..), it yields dirtier products at lower yields....
 
lol @ clatharate. you learned a new chemistry term and now every post is "you pulp-millers with your clatherates".


My buddy had a jar spill on his carpet too. A whole gallon of pulp-mill, bark, naptha and all. Took 3 towels and a couple rolls of paper towels to clean up. My friend showed me the spot, and you can hardly tell at all. The carpet was brown to begin with, and Resolve works wonders for cleaning carpet.
 
I'd say with 'clathrates' in our vocabulary, we all learned how the stb tek works ... who didn't learn a new word / concept that day whom-everbrought it up ?! We're all some sort of chemistry geeks here...

And since you put it that way, it makes me wonder, who here goes about these teks without 'seeing' what is going on in their mind's-eye ? We all must have some 'cartoon' of whats going on ... right.? So clathrates do it for me - molecular superstructures that cage-off the precious, insoluble dmt-freebase.
 
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