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Equipment

lurkinsafe

Rising Star
Hi, don't roast me, this is my first post.
How much of the chemistry can be acquired from normal shops, without necessarily having to use the internet? And generally can any acetone sold as 99% pure be made usable with the help of epsom ?
 
acetone is not stable, the drier it is the more likely it is to aldol condense and form diacetone and water and i think some other stuff, so if you need anhydrous acetone, prepare it as needed. Im assuming you want it for FASA, honestly, just try some fresh acetone and see how it goes, buy some that comes in a metal tin instead of plastic bottle. acetone is manufactured anhydrous so in a metal container it should stay factory fresh. they certainly dont add water to it, but 100% pure is theoretically impossible so, if they are being realistic and depending on local laws, theyll say 99% since thats all they can guarantee.

brew shops have measuring cylinders and bigass erlenmeyers. as for chemicals, its lye, vinegar, and naptha.
in my experience having glassware you can pour from without it spilling or dribbling down the side is important, a seperatory funnel is also looking to be increasingly not useful, as it turns out dmt will migrate nicely into the NPS layer just with some gentle heating in a hot water bath and occasional stirring.

unless you go a bit more exotic, you should be able to get most things locally, no need to go online for anything but information
 
thank you

Do you know of a "food safe" source of naphta you could buy in the EU?
to eliminate the possibility of residues, i think theres a method of washing naptha first with acid or base, otherwise, if you distill it, it becomes perfectly pure. but if it leaves no residue then theres no point
 
Solvents that leave no residue, like vm&p naphtha or bestine, will still react with vinegar in swim experience and form precipitate as shown in the vinegar test method.

Will distilling these solvents remove the precipitate that forms when reacted w vinegar? swim is not certain about that yet

Perhaps not using vinegar can avoid the reaction occurring, and using a diff acid, swim has not tried that either. But swim would like to know..

Look up the msds or safety data sheets, look at boiling points range and contents. Compare this with ACS grade solvent msds boiling point ranges.. imo always do vinegar/acid test on solvents.. and maybe also do another test w whatever base you will use the same way to ensure no reactions will occur
 
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Solvents that leave no residue, like vm&p naphtha or bestine, will still react with vinegar in swim experience and form precipitate as shown in the vinegar test method.

Will distilling these solvents remove the precipitate that forms when reacted w vinegar? swim is not certain about that yet

Perhaps not using vinegar can avoid the reaction occurring, and using a diff acid, swim has not tried that either. But swim would like to know..

Look up the msds or safety data sheets, look at boiling points range and contents. Compare this with ACS grade solvent msds boiling point ranges.. imo always do vinegar/acid test on solvents.. and maybe also do another test w whatever base you will use the same way to ensure no reactions will occur
that sounds like the naptha contains a dissolved base of some kind, and if it distills/still reacts after being distilled, then it might be a volatile base
washing it should still do the trick if you use a stronger acid, or a higher conc of your acetic than youll be exposing it to later, you may or may not decide to distill it once acid washed, but if it leaves residue upon acidification, then acidify and remove the residues.
 
Germany has "Wundbenzin", which is at least pharmaceutical grade.
I had issue to acquire anything that doesn't leave residue (lets say in Slovakia). This year I will probably order something from specialized store. But trying to get a solvent that is usually over the counter is pain in the ass. To even look up what is that solvent made of is painful process...

<3
 
acetone is manufactured anhydrous so in a metal container it should stay factory fresh.
I recently bought some acetone for FASA but it's in a plastic bottle. Would transferring it to a glass bottle help in keeping it 'factory fresh'? [I don't have a metal container at hand.]
 
that sounds like the naptha contains a dissolved base of some kind, and if it distills/still reacts after being distilled, then it might be a volatile base
washing it should still do the trick if you use a stronger acid, or a higher conc of your acetic than youll be exposing it to later, you may or may not decide to distill it once acid washed, but if it leaves residue upon acidification, then acidify and remove the residues.
The tested naphtha and all other referred to solvents or acids were clean and could not have contained any other substances than what came w them. This is the same test done in the “Crown and klean strip vmp have changed chemically” thread where Benz analyzed the precipitated substance..

Distilling is def a good idea, which swim will try. May need to react the naphtha w vinegar prior to distillation to actually remove the precipitate that forms. Prob observe that test at some point out of curiosity.

Ive observed that when a shake test is done w vinegar and most solvents or acids that r store bought some sort of precipitate forms to a degree regardless of whether they r shaken hard or stirred gently. A disappointing but inspiring observation. Sometimes the nps layer will remain clean and only the base layer or acid layer will form precipitate.. other times, as is the case with store bought naptha and vinegar, a precipitate end up in both layers to a degree ime. Lab grade solvents and base/acids may fix this issue but I haven’t observed that myself.
 
I recently bought some acetone for FASA but it's in a plastic bottle. Would transferring it to a glass bottle help in keeping it 'factory fresh'? [I don't have a metal container at hand.]
If you have one with a compatible lid, it may help to minimise the leaching of plasticizers from the bottle material. If performing FASA, the plasticizers that are already in solution should stay in solution, limiting contamination to the few microgrammes of acetone which remain physically stuck to the fumarate crystals. It seems like you'd be looking at a few picogrammes of plasticizer per gramme of fumarate (as a top-of-the-head estimate) so further steps like pre-distillation of the acetone would be a matter of personal choice, best made by obtaining clear data about both the level and type of plasticizer contamination in the acetone, and the likely effects - if any - of a tiny amount of any particular kinds of plasticiser. Some of them have dramatic hormone-mimicking effects at shockingly tiny levels, but that should more put us off the use of plastic packaging in general.
 
Do you mean a glass bottle with a compatible lid?
I was thinking of transferring the acetone to an empty grain alcohol bottle or maybe an empty vodka bottle.
Yes, that's about right, although you'd have to check that the lid insert won't get dissolved by the acetone (some of them seem to be polystyrene, for example).

Fwiw, acetone tends to be sold in metal canisters in my part of the world. The cap liners' inner surface are some kind of metal foil, too.
 
Yes, that's about right, although you'd have to check that the lid insert won't get dissolved by the acetone (some of them seem to be polystyrene, for example).

Fwiw, acetone tends to be sold in metal canisters in my part of the world. The cap liners' inner surface are some kind of metal foil, too.
Ok, thanks.
Would the tiny amounts of plastic in acetone be detectable with an evap test? Because I already used the acetone for FASA after doing an evap test on it (which it passed).
(Nice to see you're still alive btw)
 
Ok, thanks.
Would the tiny amounts of plastic in acetone be detectable with an evap test? Because I already used the acetone for FASA after doing an evap test on it (which it passed).
(Nice to see you're still alive btw)
Nanograms per millilitre of plasticizer wouldn't necessarily show up with a visual inspection as per the evap test. Accidentally dissolved polystyrene probably would. I would suspect that cleaning-grade acetone gets put into containers that are broadly compatible for the intended purpose, but keep in mind that the oestrogenic effects of some plasticizers were discovered accidentally as a result of using plastic labware.

While it's obviously desirable to minimise exposure to various environmental contaminants, plastic-associated or otherwise, one must put into perspective just how significant this route of exposure (i.e., from FASA-derived pharmahuasca) in comparison to general dietary and environmental exposure.

If you're committed to purity in a sacred substance, distill your acetone and store it in ceramic, glass or metal.

Worrying about picograms of plasticizer is likely more harmful than the plasticizer, at least in the short term :D Thinking about this has also led me to consider how much the basicity of a glass surface might contribute to self-condensation in the acetone. Using freshly-distilled acetone would appear to be your best bet, if you're happy with distilling a flammable solvent with a fairly low boiling point.
 
I recently bought some acetone for FASA but it's in a plastic bottle. Would transferring it to a glass bottle help in keeping it 'factory fresh'? [I don't have a metal container at hand.]
Acetone isnt super hygroscopic as such, but it can absorb more moisture more readily than something should, by other means. teflon tape the thread and remove any cap liners since theyll probably dissolve or leak plasticizer. Keep in mind acetone will produce quite a bit of pressure even if its cold, so it had better be a good bottle with a good seal or its just going to leak fumes out.
 
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