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Ethenol/Methanol Extraction?

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kervork

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I notice that DMT is highly soluable in alcohols. So much so that it seems to suck dmt out of naptha.

My question, would this work?

Take 100 g bark, 100 g lye. Mix with 1000ml of alcohol. Soak. Strain.

Evaporate alcohol giving red goo.

Dissolve red goo in hot naptha. Add small amount of hot water. Shake, cool, separate and discard water.

Freeze precipitate dmt from naptha.

I ask this because it seems that DMT isn't very soluble in water or naptha. Using Alcohol to first extract would allow for a far more concentrated solution and hopefully better extraction.
 
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Yes it works. You don' t even have to use lye, you can use sodium carbonate, or calcium hydroxide.


Remember you must moist the bark and base and mix well, and then letting it dry before pulling with alcohol. Well in theory you dont even have to let it dry but then your product will have excess sodium carbonate (or lye if you used that) and other salts (sodium tannate etc ). But if you then use some more dry alcohol or naphtha (or do as the link above and redissolve in vinegar and proceed clean up), then it doesnt matter since those impurities will be left behind.

By the way, I did not understand what you said about DMT being so soluble in alcohol that ' it seems to suck dmt out of naphtha' ? Alcohol will mix with the naphtha, so you cant separate DMT like this.

Oh and, remember to do at least some 3x alcohol pulls on your plant material
 
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kervork said:
Take 100 g bark, 100 g lye. Mix with 1000ml of alcohol. Soak. Strain.

Evaporate alcohol giving red goo.
Click to expand...

As endlessness said, you definitely need to moisten the bark/base mix. pH is a property of water only and without water you won't be freebasing anything.

Also, bear im mind that lye is somewhat soluble in alcohols (like methanol and ethanol). If you want to avoid potential lye contamination and lye carry-overs, then you should imperatively avoid lye and go for sodium carbonate or calcium hydroxide as your base.
 
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I have found that when I mix alcohol (denatured ethanol) with naptha the two don't mix and can be separated. Two distinct layers are rapidly formed. The dmt precipitate dissolves rapidly and the naptha looses color. This leads me to believe that alcohol is a much more attractive solvent than the naptha.
 
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Depending on the type of naphtha you have yes, you can get separation with denatured alcohol - but of course not always.

The problem is that you do not get a fair separation; whilst there are two phases, the naphtha layer will be holdign a fair amount of ethanol and vice-versa.
 
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Parshvik Chintan said:
are salts soluble in alcohol as well?

or just fb?

also infund: when you mentioned calcium carbonate, am i correct in assuming you meant calcium hydroxide?
Click to expand...
Argh, my bad - yes I meant calcium hydroxide.

Also, salts are soluble in alcohols/ketones as well. As a general rule-of-thumb with regard to solubilities of alkaloid salts, water>methanol>ethanol>isopropanol>acetone>MEK. The nature of salt plays important role, e.g. dmt fumarate is insoluble in acetone and very poorly soluble in IPA, whilst dmt citrate, dmt tartrate and dmt malate are quite soluble in both IPA and acetone.
 
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...Figured i'd get in on this. Whilst making a batch of changa in a shot glass with some 99% IPA the same thought crossed my mind about using alcohol instead of naphtha ( im always feel that a lil bit of naphtha is left behind in final product ). Im wondering if you could skip basing the plant material and let it sit soaked in IPA for say, 1 month......add basic water mix (calcium hydroxide), pull and evap. Or even skip basifying and evap and use orally with an MAOI
 
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astralspice said:
...Figured i'd get in on this. Whilst making a batch of changa in a shot glass with some 99% IPA the same thought crossed my mind about using alcohol instead of naphtha ( im always feel that a lil bit of naphtha is left behind in final product ). Im wondering if you could skip basing the plant material and let it sit soaked in IPA for say, 1 month......add basic water mix (calcium hydroxide), pull and evap. Or even skip basifying and evap and use orally with an MAOI
Click to expand...

Wait are you talking about extracting harmalas from caapi leaves or extracting mimosa and then evapping onto caapi leaves? You'd better basify the plant material before soaking in IPA, instead of after. You can add calcium hydroxide and water and mix well, let it dry and then soak with IPA.
 
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sorry endlessness, I realize that my post wasn't clear. Im asking about pulling spice (or jungle) from mimosa with the IPA. I remember reading a post about a year ago about making a sort of aya this way.....
 
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nen888 said:
..in the Acacia extraction workspace i recommend ethanol/methanol mixed with 10-30% basic water..this creates clear separation with most NP solvents..i stay away from naptha though..
ethanol is certainly a more efficient holder of tryptamines than acidified water alone..
Click to expand...
since you seem to have experience with this I have a question. I have some acacia bark that still has something left in it so i have it soaking in 70% isopropyl and a little vinegar. I was planning on evaporating it down after filtering to a goo or at least until all the alcohol is gone, then add a little water and base and pull with naphtha. my main question is if there was still a considerable amount of iso left in the solution when i based it and pulled would it be a problem? or should i make sure it's all out?
 
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