Bionecrosis, i swear at times your posts made me laugh out loud, but at times it can become hard work to decipher your slang, man. :roll:
Anyway, for the sake of the nexus environment and workflow which i love so much, and for the fact i trust and believe in the great power of learning. Also respect to downwardsfromzero for contributing in spreading the good vibes.
Pay attention!
First of all you mentioned doing acid cooks:
1. 30 gr grinded MHRB was cooked in 120 ml water PH 3.3 for 1.5h at low heat
You do not mention how many acid cooks though, and if you disposed of the bark after, and continued as a CYB tek. If you did dispose of it, know that one acid cook is never enough to migrate all the actives from the bark into solution. Usually people do 3 washes. If, on the other hand, you cooked the bark and continued with CYB's, disregard all the above since all the alkaloids should still be present in solution.
As downwardsfromzero, and the rest of us here always say,
do not throw any extraction materials away until you are finished and satisfied with your end results!
4. 6 x 25ml low heated heptan pull used but proabably didn't let the heptan separate good because of color changed.(The last pull weited more and saw better separation. Each pull was about 30sec mooving and let searate x 3.Heptane was placed in evap dish and some white cristals was forming with strong smell(first pull completly evaporated befor I did the rest.)
At first, until you become more accustomed to these processes, leave yourself some "space to breathe". Use more solvent if needed. The tek you followed recommends using 50ml per pull. It does so for certain reasons. In 50ml you get enough space to suck some of it out without disturbing the bark solution. You don't need to strive to get the last bits of solvent out since you will do more pulls, and what is leftover will always get diluted by the next batches and so on. Trust me, nothing is lost apart from a tiny bit of nps... more so if you're doing 4 pulls per extraction, everything migrates out, even the last bit. You will most likely not have any "brown sith" in your extract, and you'll most likely not be needing any carbonate washes or cleanup steps apart from a simple re-x, ever! It has been said numerous times in plenty forum posts, the information is here... it won't look for you though! 8) Also here, that which i've already said in my second post about stirring and letting separate has to be added.
Patience is key! You get out what you put in!
5. Half of heptan was evaporated and placed the dish for 3h in -24 celsius.Remooved the nafta and dried the dish.Some brown crystals was formed and after scrap it was around 0.5 gr(didn't weighted)Some condesatiom ocured also and probably the cristal was wet
Stop reducing your solvent unless you've used large amounts of it. -24C is a very good freezer, there is no need for reducing nps, it only creates more loss of materials. Also 3h to freeze precipitate? That is hardly going to work, or i would not trust that everything crashes out in 3h, not even in post re-x freeze precip. Consider having around at least 8-12h+ patience, depending on situation! :thumb_up:
In order to avoid condensation pre/post freeze precipitation, take the time (have patience...lol?) to slowly acclimatise the solvent to the new temp. conditions.
Example: pre freeze precip let solvent reach room temp, introduce dish in the fridge for some time at first, then move it to the freezer overnight/day or what have you.
After freeze precip: decant nps, refreeze until all nps has dripped out (dish upside down), move dish into the fridge until it reached fridge temp, take out to room temp and proceed to airdry.
This is also a good method for crystal growth, though i advise to approach it at a later development stage in your experience with extracting, if that would be the case even.
did a wash with small amount of sodium carbonate - 5 ml to the nafta 30-40 ml.Something like yellow oil formed in the middle of the two layers.I thout it was crashing dmt and reheated the solution.Nothing heppend and I keep the hetptane only and the yellow oil in the rubish.Did 2 more washes with 5 ml clear water and after two hours in the -24 celsius fridg nothing ofrming. What did I wrong with the re and should I use more heptane for the pulls.What about the heptane and mixrure temperature.
Always IMO use the same amount of water as solvent.Makes life much easier. Always try to work at room temp. Never warm solvent - cold water, as the differences in temperature between the two can mess up with the nps's proprieties and in worst cases some alkaloids could crash out. Of course that with freebase being non polar it will always remain cought between layers and could always be salvaged, but it's best to avoid situations like this from the start.
The right thing to do in your case would be to try and stick with learning the basics of extraction first, trying to not end up needing washes in the first place, as i've already said. I find it more logical and efficient anyway. Course you might think that it will render greater purity. It would in some cases, for sure, but if the first steps are carried out with greatest care to not contaminate pulls, using also freeze precip in the end, you might aswell skip the washes and mostly, mostly do a final re-x.
You want purity? Use less heat. Do teks cold. Do more pulls with fresh solvent etc. Plenty options. All these infos can be found in the forum threads.
I will put all the solvent in jar befor placing in the dish and probably will use DCM for pull
Again you seem to like overcomplicating yourself. Forget about the DCM, seriously, last thing you need now is messing around with that. Save the heptane, source some naphtha!
Please understand that what you are trying to do is not some sort of play. Extractions which involve heavy bases, potentially hazardous solvents, and one of the most strongest hallucinogens known to man, are not something you can toy with!!
Don't get me wrong bionecrosis, i have nothing against you, but there are some things that raise red flags in your behaviour and need to be pointed out for harm reductions sake. Afterall the dmt-nexus is a harm reduction platform. And if you want to be a part, man, you need to comply. You've got some work to do!
Actualy DMT is very cheep ticket to the space so I dont worry
This intrigues me the most until now.
Just because these plants are so readily available, and just because this community has invested a lot of time and effort to research and publicise this type of knowledge to the masses, it certainly does not mean that "DMT is very cheep ticket to space"!!
Somewhere in the middle i think you've got some respect issues, and that you don't even imagine what you're taking for granted. Please revise your attitude towards this entheogen, source, nature, everything... and give thanks, you are very lucky, remember that!
I also have havier petrolium destilate kerosene should I use it?I dont think it will evaporate properly and already caused explosion coz of vapores.What is better idea to use both basic soap and solvent warm or only solvent,anyway I have little hole at the top of the jar so the vapores can go out
Forget about the kerosene, and maybe give it to someone who might need it or dispose of it in a non hazardous way for nature.
Read the tek, study the graph, watch the pictorial, step by step. It's all there in CYB's, follow it. Water bath is usually used to warmup the whole extraction vessel, all ingredients included. Think in terms of efficiency.
proabbly u mean do mini A/B other time when I do extraction.Do u have any idea what is th exact reason for sodium carboanate to be bad.And what do u think is better mini A/B or defating because mini A/B is something like defating.
Any way I did second re with 10 ml heptan with the 200 mg spice, almost nothing rest in the jar. Fast evaporated the 10ml and scraped around 180 mg yellow spice it is something like waxy.Not shure if scraped befor full evaporate because when I smoked a little from aluminium plate the taste was very bad and rest some burning sensation on my tongue.Some effect come Smile just to remembeber me what was about the dmt.Didnt enter in his world bud I remember it yes.
Mini a/b translates to
backsalting not
defatting. Practically it does leave behind (not remove) "fats". Theoretically defatting and backsalting are two very different things. Where defatting is done after the acid cooks, and before adding the base in solution. The latter, in your case, is unnecessary. It will only overcomplicate things and waste more precious materials.
Aluminum is a bad choice. Prolly many made the mistake of using it when nothing else was available, but please, this is not the case anymore. There are plenty, much better options available at your disposal. Pipes, bongs, the machine etc. Many usable things out there that do not involve the danger of leaking into your body. Also the bad taste and burning feeling on your tongue is likely happening because you are toasting it. Improve, yeah!
Doid I meade mesfly cloear ehgnou, bionecrosis?