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Hi there and thanks already!

DK_one

Established member
Ok, I first off want to really say thank you to all of who are involved in this community and especially the core of the community!

Without all of you I think I would have quitted the interest in Extractions and considered myself to stupid to get a positive result.

Ofc I have a selfish request that I will open up a thread for, but still thanking you for all I was able to take advantage of by your knowledge is important for me to having said desperately.
 
I started with juking 100g MHRB and 125g Viridis also junked.
With 25g PViridis left I wanted to determine the options being to stupid or having dead material.

Without changing the Tek but alot more of understanding for what I am doing. I instantly had a DMT and NOxide success of 115mg from that 25g PViridis.

I just found so much information that lined out my errors and or possible errors
 
I started with juking 100g MHRB and 125g Viridis also junked.
With 25g PViridis left I wanted to determine the options being to stupid or having dead material.

Without changing the Tek but alot more of understanding for what I am doing. I instantly had a DMT and NOxide success of 115mg from that 25g PViridis.

I just found so much information that lined out my errors and or possible errors
Ah, too sad!

The golden rule of extraction is - never ditch anything until you're sure you've got the goods 🤷‍♂️

I too am impressed that you've managed to extract a visible amount from 25g chacruna.

Welcome to the Nexus!
 
Ok, NM when this is your honest reaction I feel the urge to get some pictures up of the extract.

Also I need maybe need to get the translator.

Gimme a few hours maybe, but I definitely will post it before I go to bed.

GMT +1
 
Ok, NM when this is your honest reaction I feel the urge to get some pictures up of the extract.

Also I need maybe need to get the translator.

Gimme a few hours maybe, but I definitely will post it before I go to bed.

GMT +1
Perhaps, "juking" didn't make much sense except as a typo for "junking" which I took to mean that you'd considered it a failure and thrown it away. Awesome if this turns out not to be the case…
 
Perhaps, "juking" didn't make much sense except as a typo for "junking" which I took to mean that you'd considered it a failure and thrown it away. Awesome if this turns out not to be the case…
Typo yes. But im End this was apprentice's due so to say. For sure I wouldn't trash can potentially alkaloids holding liquids again.


Besides that I am really sorry for making an announcement I was not able to hold on to.
 
A brief outline of my procedure.

A simple A/B extraction
* Boil citric acid
* naptha (tested by evaporation) defatt
* sodium carbonate basify
* DCM pull
* naptha separating n,n DMT
* IPA pick up left overs (probably N-oxide DMT)

The DCM pull evaporating in a glass bowl overnight in the morning initially was disappointed, as a very non viscous liquid collected at the bottom of the bowl.

Later that evening, however, the liquid had changed in viscosity from very fast running non viscose to extremely slow, almost rigid - viscose. And the first white deposits gave hope that the evaporation would simply drag on; after all, I'm not familiar with this sort of thing.

The next morning, yellow drops were suddenly scattered all over the bowl, with only a few snow-white structures in the corners and sides. With imagination, it was like a negative of a snowflake.

ff6268b4-ffb7-440e-ae69-f04164d3f3ea~2.jpg649b93b2-5b66-44e2-a6dc-f12222c96cb8~2.jpg

Unsure how to collect this result from the bowl, and a surgical procedure on my tongue resulted in the bowl sitting unnoticed for two more days.

Day 5 or 6 after the evaporation night, the bowl was populated by this negative snowflake network, but the snowy white had transformed into a yellowish white or off-white.
Upon closer inspection, it became clear that all of the oily spots had indeed transformed.

58f7a10d-fd5c-4284-9d45-49830fab48a3_copy_2703x2027_copy_2027x1520.jpg

Next, the resulting substance could be easily scraped from the glass. The scale showed 0.115g. I hoped and suspected that I actually had N,N DMT and N-oxide DMT.

For various reasons, primarily curiosity about a crystal, I then dissolved the extracted material in warm naptha. Some dissolved spontaneously, and some clumped together in a reddish-brown color at the bottom of the glass.

The naptha was pipetted into a tapered glass (a champagne glass). This was sealed with cling film with minimal perforation.

ccc46c5e-1a2f-4b9f-b8de-a9006198cf4f~2.jpg

The reddish-brown clumps were easily dissolved in IPA to 99.6% and evaporated with a fan.

c8180136-b2bb-4287-8ab7-37c0e1e43273_copy_5406x4055_copy_4054x3041.jpg

Because the glas size with IPA evap didn't allow to collect the now very sticky material. It was picked up with IPA again and transferred to a wider lower bowl.

def2a450-7df7-4dd3-b391-a6050b426b36_copy_5406x4055_copy_4054x3041.jpg

Trying to scrap off this what hopefully is N-oxide DMT resulted in remembering the words I read lately by someone in this forum. Something like "if you got N-oxide don't collecting it just do a changa with it"
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Correct me if I am wrong please, but the crystals in the champagne glass look like n,n DMT for me.


After the cleaning/separating the weight did drop to lower then a ⅓.

59c79dc2-33cb-44db-a060-2e5c8c3fde2c~2.jpg
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Q-1: Is there anything that clearly speaks against this being N-oxide? The information I've been able to find so far has basically only pointed to N-oxide. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any photos for comparison to date.

Q-2: is N-oxide Ethanol-soluble? What solvent would you recommend if ethanol won't for doing a N-oxid change?





Hope this post is somewhat good formated and maybe got some "relevant" information beside the DCM for Pull.

Walking in the subway ATM. Will post it for now
 

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Q-1: Is there anything that clearly speaks against this being N-oxide? The information I've been able to find so far has basically only pointed to N-oxide.
More recent examination of this kind of material has shown it to be polymeric DMT, although your material pulled from chacruna using DCM has a higher likelihood of being the actual N-oxide. The polymer is active when vaporised, the N-oxide isn't, according to tests by @Brennendes Wasser in the latter case.
Q-2: is N-oxide Ethanol-soluble? What solvent would you recommend if ethanol won't for doing a N-oxid change?
The polymer should be readily soluble in ethanol. I'd expect the same for the N-oxide, although its use in a smoking mixture may be of limited value - if it really is N-oxide. (Material from MHRB would be the polymer, but I'm presuming we're discussing the 25g chacruna extraction based on the yield. Even so, it may well just be the polymer.)

There's a simple way of breaking up the polymer, although it's hardly worth it with only 36mg of material unless you simply fancy the labwork practise. Dissolve the goo in water with the minimum necessary amount of acid, add base and pull with warm naphtha. Precipitate in the freezer. This procedure is know as mini A/B.
 
Ok, ATM I am fancy enough to give it a try.
Already read a thread in which the polymere stuff was discussed on MHRB Stb extraction.

Primarily when the DCM was sitting in the Soul for longer then 2 hours I think to remember.

The 2 questions I got now are:

The polymere are very Toxic and rly safer to just avoid if I remember correctly?
- We are talking about the good sticky re brownish resin stuff on this picture, right?
Since I am not able to scrap it of the bowl I can't use scale on it.
def2a450-7df7-4dd3-b391-a6050b426b36_copy_5406x4055_copy_4054x3041.jpg



2nd - the 36mg is the weight of the Crystals the Glas in the following Picture
ccc46c5e-1a2f-4b9f-b8de-a9006198cf4f~2.jpg
 
Q-2: is N-oxide Ethanol-soluble? What solvent would you recommend if ethanol won't for doing a N-oxid change?

Just noticed the typo by auto correct

Last word was ment to be CHANGA
 
Q-2: is N-oxide Ethanol-soluble? What solvent would you recommend if ethanol won't for doing a N-oxid change?

Just noticed the typo by auto correct

Last word was ment to be CHANGA
should cover most of your questions, I hope.
 
Fresh P. viridis extractions sometimes goo slightly on the evap. Not sure if that's due to an abundance of indoles and methyl esters (smells way more fragrant than with MHRB) or poorly performed defats. Yield also seems sneaky—weird and unexpected things can happen. Jars left sitting for weeks seem to create layers of spice and fat, so perhaps stronger emulsions with more patience is required to reduce collecting aromatic compounds. Or, maybe something else is going on that I'm not aware of (hexane could be better for removing these particular impurities). Curious to also try an acetone wash next time this happens.

Would be great if someone knowledgeable could provide more detail about differences in plant composition.
 
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On the extraction above

I had an defat with Naptha or two I think.
The Naptha did had no visible color change, but I am sure I made a 2nd run on defat.

The DCM extraction or swap or what the correct wording would be. Was a really fast one. Maybe 30 minutes to let the Emulsion fade.
I didn t run a 2nd one even.

Does this help on make any assumptions on the end product?
 
When I do a MHRB A/B

Naptha pull



- Is it enough to store with magnetic device so that there is just movement for a good while?

In seoeratory I had mad Emulsion just but putting it on the head to vent....



- is it a fatal thing when adding to much naoh with an A/B pull or better even switch to an ph 12 base?



Working with minor amounts btw... To get used
 
Ok just found a thread to water-bath the emulsion and turn left and right.

This worked pretty well with a bunch of patience @100°c bath!
 
Ok just found a thread to water-bath the emulsion and turn left and right.

This worked pretty well with a bunch of patience @100°c bath!
Thanks for taking the time to look into it for ymurself - that's the sort of approach we prefer to encourage. Maybe you already saw, vibration can also help with breaking emulsions. A massage device 'of some kind' has been reported to provide favourable results.
 
I found that turning the flask (Erlenmeyer) left right (spin is better term I guess) helped already alot.
 
I got all questions answered meanwhile except one

For StB I found explanation why to add more lye the necessary (cell break up or similar I think)

But for an A/B MHRB extraction isn't it better to just barely hit PH14?

And I really didn't find answer to it or maybe did oversee it.
 
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