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I finally got rid of the goo (Acacia Acuminata)

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I think that appearance is actually very misleading sometimes. It’s common for DMT to come out of acuminata as a clear colorless oil.. especially if using something like DCM. Usual doseage guide applies so it’s very potent. What is your method of vaporizing.. it sounds like it’s maybe something to do with technique. Not once have I ever found Acuminata extract inactive..

The crystals melting at room temp I’ve experienced a lot when using shellite.. although your using hexane for your crystallization?

[EDIT]

Have you tried a more standard style A/B using water? This works well too.. of course methanol works very well but there is the added possibility of pulling some extra stuff from the plant. As an example, the original acacia pioneer 'JG' used methanol (with Acacia maidenii) and experienced significant difficulties removing tars from the extract when acidifying it. For the acid phase, a soak in cold water for 48 hrs fortified with a little vinegar and methanol I imagine would produce a cleaner extract than stripping your bark with straight methanol.
 
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"Have you tried a more standard style A/B using water?"
No, but thats how ill be doing it going forward, 100%
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i rinsed all my different dishes and beaker fractions in anhydrous IPA. holy hell.
after trying a little from each one i was in the astral dimension, not only that but it was so incredibly clean, like cleaner than when i scraped up nothing but clear crystal-oil crust. downright pleasant even.

my problem is i cannot tell the difference between the hexane soluble gunk, and non crystalizing dmt goo, so i dont know where that ends and spice begins.
But it seems like dry IPA is a perfect chemical solution.

i smoked it in a small glass pipe, the cleaner re-re-crystalized fractions did not produce ANY residue or tar after smoking, the oil pretty much vaporized 100%, even after going through a bit of all of them the pipe has so little charring. the worst one which included the very first precipitates, was pretty good. LOTS of oil and wax was left behind in its petri dish after dissolving in IPA.

I tried burning, not smoking tho, some of this goo left behind, it legit smelled like candle wax smoke.

with the raw hexane extract that i have attempted to smoke but found inactive (i presumed it was just depleted after a few hexane pulls), i have added IPA and quite a bit of that has dissolved, ill be testing it later to see what happens, im pretty optimistic now. it stinks of amine, almost fishy even, so i have to wonder, if anythings in there.

IPA seems to be the key. i have put everything in centrifuge tubes since thats all i had on hand, and will try and evap them dry. and weigh what each fraction weighs. its not ideal but since i removed some volume, i have to multiply their remaining volumes to calculate the original yieldz


After all this, considering the material the IPA eliminated, ill try recrystalizing again but VERY carefully, just to see if it does, but, at least half of this goo is better than any DMT i had smoked ever in my life.

One extra note: i used a closed-loop precision hot air gun to heat the pipe, since i had to evap the IPA in the pipe as well and it made it pretty convenient to do so. I cranked up the heat to smoke it, as originally i was concerned about fats and plant matter burning, considering how harsh the smoke had been prior. but that turned out to be pointless so i switched back to a jet lighter. however, there seems to be multiple compounds in there since there is something only flame can liberate, although in the most refined fraction everything was obtained using a stream of 200C air. so im pretty sure i have multiple alkaloids here, unless DMTs different polymorphs vaporize differently.
 
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Thanks for those details @drpotato .. cool to see you experimenting with different methods.

Just fyi, the nicest result I ever got from Acacia acuminata bark was the folllowing:

We knew diggers shellite had some drawbacks and were determined to see if we could remove impurities, so tried cleaning shellite by mixing with a mixture of vinegar and ethanol a few times. The acidic ethanol was drained off and discarded. The rinsed shellite was to be used as our FB extraction/defatting solvent.

  • A simple A/B style of extraction was performed, soaking ground narrow phyllode acuminata branch bark in ethanol for 4 days. Ethanol was strained off and filtered several times - before diluting with water and boiling off the ethanol. Final volume around 400ml.
  • about a lid full of vinegar was added and defat was performed with shellite while solution was warm.. shellite drained off and put aside
  • about 6g NaOH added to solution and 100ml shellite added. 3 pulls were done.. basified mixture was warm but not hot. Warm enough to heat the shellite and allow solubility of DMT
  • The drained solvent was put in a dish and fanned for about an hour to reduce volume. Solvent was then heated in a jar sitting in hot water to dissolve any fine precipitates that the fan forced out of the solvent.. the final reduced solvent rinsed with sodium carb water
  • Solvent placed in freezer overnight to yield lovely crusty white sea urchin style crystals the next morning. Dish placed upside down for an hour and then allowed to air out for a while..
Whether the cleaned shellite helped is hard to say. But that worked very well. I think cold ethanol extract works very well when using bark. The other cool thing you can do which I recently found really cool.. instead of adding water before reducing and boiling off ethanol, gently reduce ethanol to about 100ml and then add cold acidic water.. this can crash out a whole bunch of tars that aren't soluble in cold water and make for a hassle during extraction.. you can then skim them off the surface. Then filter and proceed as normal.
 
Thanks for those details @drpotato .. cool to see you experimenting with different methods.

Just fyi, the nicest result I ever got from Acacia acuminata bark was the folllowing:

We knew diggers shellite had some drawbacks and were determined to see if we could remove impurities, so tried cleaning shellite by mixing with a mixture of vinegar and ethanol a few times. The acidic ethanol was drained off and discarded. The rinsed shellite was to be used as our FB extraction/defatting solvent.

  • A simple A/B style of extraction was performed, soaking ground narrow phyllode acuminata branch bark in ethanol for 4 days. Ethanol was strained off and filtered several times - before diluting with water and boiling off the ethanol. Final volume around 400ml.
  • about a lid full of vinegar was added and defat was performed with shellite while solution was warm.. shellite drained off and put aside
  • about 6g NaOH added to solution and 100ml shellite added. 3 pulls were done.. basified mixture was warm but not hot. Warm enough to heat the shellite and allow solubility of DMT
  • The drained solvent was put in a dish and fanned for about an hour to reduce volume. Solvent was then heated in a jar sitting in hot water to dissolve any fine precipitates that the fan forced out of the solvent.. the final reduced solvent rinsed with sodium carb water
  • Solvent placed in freezer overnight to yield lovely crusty white sea urchin style crystals the next morning. Dish placed upside down for an hour and then allowed to air out for a while..
Whether the cleaned shellite helped is hard to say. But that worked very well. I think cold ethanol extract works very well when using bark. The other cool thing you can do which I recently found really cool.. instead of adding water before reducing and boiling off ethanol, gently reduce ethanol to about 100ml and then add cold acidic water.. this can crash out a whole bunch of tars that aren't soluble in cold water and make for a hassle during extraction.. you can then skim them off the surface. Then filter and proceed as normal.
i suspect there is a considerable difference in performance between naptha and say, pure hexane like i used beyond just the fixed solubility difference. invariably people will evaporate their naptha right? well, naptha is not going to evaporate normally. low bp components leave while high bp components remains, the composition changes as it dries. you might be pulling with 30-50% hexane and 5-15% pentanes but you are crystalizing with 15-30% hexane and 0-2% pentanes the ratio of evaporation of heptane and heavier compounds is far less than lighter ones, but of course they overlap heavily. Im going to distill some diggers shellite and see if it makes a difference if hexane fails to produce results with what i have here now.

In the past though i have specifically been able to fractionate shellite into distinct fractions. i think maybe 3 constant boiling fractions. Heptane is being recommended more often now too, so there may be something to this, since you crystalize in higher-heptane solvent.
 
Hey cool! I didn't realise the composition of naptha changes so much as it evaps but that makes sense. You should post up your results after distilling it. I've not worked with it, but n-heptane seems to be the favourite for recrystallization. I mostly use DCM and really like it but am more keen to pull full spectrum alkaloid profiles than pure DMT. DCM is largely pointless with narrow phyllode acuminata as there's not much else in the way of alks beyond DMT so I would use a selective solvent for it.. if you can't get it to crystallize with n-heptane I'd wager your looking at another polymer of DMT.

Also - you didn't clarify what variety of Acuminata your using.. true narrow phyllode again should be very clean

.. a convenient little word comparison:
Broad leaf = broad spectrum alkaloids (low amount of DMT mixed with a bunch of other alkaloids)
Narrow leaf = narrow spectrum alkaloids (i.e mostly DMT)

The one with the terete needles is true narrow phyllode.. there are intermediate forms too

Are you based in WA? There's some other interesting tryptamine species there worth checking out too.
 
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nah queensland, also i dont know what kind of acuminata i have but since the seller also sold narrow phyllode leaf mulch, i would speculate that its all from the same trees.

I have apparently no shortage of DMT plants locally according to maps, however, i havent been able to extract dmt from anything either, but apparently ive been doing everything wrong this whole time so, now that i have finally seen the proper way, even if it hasnt yielded crystals, i think i can do a clean pull from some fattier, wild maideniis and this other variety nearby, as well as phalaris.
 
well, a big problem though is the final purification is freeze precipitation, and the appearance is the only true indicator of where plant resins end and dmt begins. ive recrystalized like a dozen times now and, i do get crystals although they mostly melt at room temp (its defs not ice though)

the method i initially followed produced a sizeable blob, it was a dry tek that i thought would work well in my glassware, boy was i wrong. basically, long base-soaks, then leech with methanol, and repeat multiple times over the course of days, my modifications over a standard dry tek would just be that i distilled the methanol to re-use, and that i replaced 10% of the carbonate with hydroxide just because i had my doubts about using only carbonate.

i then acidified with acetic acid, did a DCM defat, boiled away any solvent before filtering to ensure no fats passed through.
then basified and transferred to DCM. upon drying out, i was left with something resembling molten resin. i refluxed it for quite some time in pure hexane until it reduced in mass, and from there ive been freeze precipitating. Tonight i finally got something that looks clean, albeit melts into an oil almost immediately, but, this is an oil, rather than the usual goo, theres only one test left to do to confirm ;)

the blob of resin/goo from the DCM after the defat after 2 hexane refluxes, has also been kept, it smells VERY amine-y, like, its in a ziplock bag, it smells actually fishy when i open it. however it is completely inactive and unpleasant, so i dont know what the deal there is.

i tried smoking some of the precipitated goo, it was hit or miss however. sometimes pleasant, other times horrific, sometimes no trace of effect, other times, mind blowing. so physically there was a mix of DMT and non DMT, and other than the crust ring that formed, i couldnt reliably get anything i knew was DMT, from the goo.


Because the tek i followed didnt involve any actual boiling/freezing i think i screwed up there. i just assumed that the leeching power of fresh methanol each time, manually percolating the bark, would do it. ive now pressure cooked that spent bark and will re-attempt. i also cooked some fresh bark too. its like blood in there, meanwhile the spent bark almost instantly settles out, by comparison its like blood that has cleanly clotted out of the plasma.
If the spent bark yields anything ill abandon everything and just recombine ALL of what i have, and follow a proper tek more strictly.
A-HA! So you did a sort of made up tek and got some disappointing to perplexing results. That makes sense - experimentation definitely comes with frustration as a side dish! As well, treating the bark with (presumably) sodium hydroxide may even have decarboxylated some amino acids, giving you the fishy-smelling result - although perhaps more likely than that is phenethylamine freebase, which would also be quite fishy in odour (as well as being the decarb product of phenylalanine).

Good to hear that the hexane did some kind of a job of cleaning it up, and your IPA-wash report is highly encouraging. It will be great to see how you might optimise the use of some of these findings, as well as getting the balance between a rapid, thorough but overly broad-spectrum initial pull versus a succession of [yieldwise] smaller, cleaner pulls.

Keep it up, stay curious! (y)
 
im in the middle of an accuminata extraction and am finding it very difficult to observe any sort of crystaline formation, however i was able to bioassay something, some oily looking crystals that form on the rim of the beaker after a few days in the freezer, it definitely contains spice, but, very dirty. since i havent handled the real thing or done a real, successful, extraction start to finish i may be making some significant mistakes, idk. accuminata was all i could get too, otherwise id have tried something else.

Anyway first batch seems like a bust, so im moving onto the second, i was thinking id try this method from the OP for the second batch, though im also going to at the same time reprocess the failed first batch, so, pressure cooking both of them, seperate, and then seeing if anything comes from it, and comparing. I think a critical error with accuminata was using DCM, i fear its pulled WAY too much goo, the second error was not immediately acid/basing the goo.
but i wont make these mistakes a second time, still, accuminata does seem to require some special attention. Im hoping to apply what ive learned to harvest from wild maidenii leaf/branch cuttings, its especially interesting the idea that the pressure cook may be neccesary to break some natural DMT complexes to release the DMT into a form we know, and can target.
dcm causes the dmt to react and creates the unwanted ammonium salt by product with exposure of dmt to dcm longer than 30 mins. also yeilds N-chloromethyl-N,N-dimethyltryptamine chloride which is not wanted
 
loctite 770 primer is the product that has the solvent heptane that will solve everyones problems on this thread, heat it up in small beaker or shot glass in frying pan on stove as a water bath and dissolve the goo or oil or dirty crystals in it and let it form two layers ,bottom layer is the crap , then pipette the top layer off and allow liquid to return to room temp n let sit in shot glass for 24hrs , put in freezer if crystal growth hasnt triggered by 24 hrz .use minimal amount of heptane. clearlite (n-hexane) is the extracting solvent for the plant materiel to minimize fats n crap being pulled
 
well, a big problem though is the final purification is freeze precipitation, and the appearance is the only true indicator of where plant resins end and dmt begins. ive recrystalized like a dozen times now and, i do get crystals although they mostly melt at room temp (its defs not ice though)

the method i initially followed produced a sizeable blob, it was a dry tek that i thought would work well in my glassware, boy was i wrong. basically, long base-soaks, then leech with methanol, and repeat multiple times over the course of days, my modifications over a standard dry tek would just be that i distilled the methanol to re-use, and that i replaced 10% of the carbonate with hydroxide just because i had my doubts about using only carbonate.

i then acidified with acetic acid, did a DCM defat, boiled away any solvent before filtering to ensure no fats passed through.
then basified and transferred to DCM. upon drying out, i was left with something resembling molten resin. i refluxed it for quite some time in pure hexane until it reduced in mass, and from there ive been freeze precipitating. Tonight i finally got something that looks clean, albeit melts into an oil almost immediately, but, this is an oil, rather than the usual goo, theres only one test left to do to confirm ;)

the blob of resin/goo from the DCM after the defat after 2 hexane refluxes, has also been kept, it smells VERY amine-y, like, its in a ziplock bag, it smells actually fishy when i open it. however it is completely inactive and unpleasant, so i dont know what the deal there is.

i tried smoking some of the precipitated goo, it was hit or miss however. sometimes pleasant, other times horrific, sometimes no trace of effect, other times, mind blowing. so physically there was a mix of DMT and non DMT, and other than the crust ring that formed, i couldnt reliably get anything i knew was DMT, from the goo.


Because the tek i followed didnt involve any actual boiling/freezing i think i screwed up there. i just assumed that the leeching power of fresh methanol each time, manually percolating the bark, would do it. ive now pressure cooked that spent bark and will re-attempt. i also cooked some fresh bark too. its like blood in there, meanwhile the spent bark almost instantly settles out, by comparison its like blood that has cleanly clotted out of the plasma.
If the spent bark yields anything ill abandon everything and just recombine ALL of what i have, and follow a proper tek more strictly.
using dcm in procedure with dmt at any stage of process is bad news and creates ammonium salt by products with direct links to alzheimers , and it yeilds N-chloromethyl-N,N-dimethyltryptamine chloride which is not desired. when dmt is exposed to dcm for period of time longer than 30mins the reaction is occurring and is carried by water easily too so removal and or back tracking is very hard or unlikely
 
using dcm in procedure with dmt at any stage of process is bad news and creates ammonium salt by products with direct links to alzheimers , and it yeilds N-chloromethyl-N,N-dimethyltryptamine chloride which is not desired. when dmt is exposed to dcm for period of time longer than 30mins the reaction is occurring and is carried by water easily too so removal and or back tracking is very hard or unlikely
There’s plenty of extracts analyzed at this site which were extracted with DCM which N-chloromethyl-N,N-dimethyltryptamine is not present in. My understanding is that it’s something that forms after more prolonged exposure to be present in any considerable amount.. and more likely under conditions of heat. I’m aware of the study that found this but in reality it doesn’t seem to occur very often in typical extraction time windows.. and even then the compound favors water solubility so if you are rinsing your solvent thoroughly it would likely migrate to the poalr phase. And the ammonium salt byproducts.. are they soluble in DCM?

Not saying its not something people shouldn't be aware of.. but I think is maybe less of an isue than people make it out to be. Don't leave your DMT in DCM for hours and hours and I can't see that very much of the chlorinated byproduct is going to be an issue.
 
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ive read mixed information with DCM, though the consensus is that the reaction is very VERY slow. and youll get fractions of a percent within a span of a few hours. soon though ill switch to diethyl ether instead, as i dont like using toluene at all, and ether smells so nice :)

Also, an update. some more leeching with iso has produced undesirable results. its not perfect, sadly. i suspect that the DMT is able to salt out the resins or something. my results were that everything was perfect except the stuff that wasnt, which tasted nasty and even powering through didnt produce nice effects.
i could smell more amine-smell on a petri dish i had leeched from already and thought, hmm, maybe i missed something? it extracted over quite a bit more goo, but this was just goo. in the pull i did before involving a long soak and then a quick rinse with a spray-mist bottle, the extract from that was almost perfect. so that makes me think that its not insoluble, just very poorly soluble in isopropyl, and the DMTs presence is enough to salt out most of the resins/ non active goo stuff.

another thing ill note.
having fractioned my precipitates, the first small amount of goo contained very little of value. next one was heavier, very clean, very geometric. next one, similar but changing in a weird way. next one felt like brain damage, visually heavy but rather than transforming it was like my visual center was unable to refresh itself, so id keep having thought-loop like flashbacks to up to 10 seconds prior, my visual memory got very cluttered. still clean smoke tho. then the VERY last one was a bit yuck in a way i couldnt articulate, but, now i know, once the DMT was gone, nasties come over. at no point did i try hexane crystalizing the iso-washes yet, had too much fun bio-assaying and it was so nice and clean, there was no point, i have heaps more bark to extract anyway.

it seems that, much like how resin precipitates first and fats precipitate last, or i guess, dont, ever since they are fully soluble in hexane at any temp, the various triptamines also precipitate out in an order of specific solubility, with a lack of overlap enough that certain vials of extract kept producing consistent results. it was quite interesting. Resin and fat overlapped with everything though and the iso seems to clean it up quite a good deal, but, another extraction, this time done proper, will tell me more and give me room to properly experiment.
 
I hope you understand how hella dangerous diethyl ether is! The flammability and explosion hazards should not be underestimated.
im well aware, the ether i use is BHT stabilized and stored dry and sealed properly, plus i always work in a fumehood.


Also, i had some kinda interesting results from trying to hexane crystalize the iso washes. freezing produced no crystals, so instead i let it evaporate, and what happened then was like it crystalized, then melted, the resin and dmt totally seperated, where all DMT was concentrated in this array of droplets. using a UV light, it was observed that there was orange oil droplets that would glow, surrounded by completely unresponsive material. i observed something like this once before, but only in the sense that it was a singular blob that was seperate from its surroundings, this seems like it was on the verge of crystalizing but couldnt, but still was able to seperate itself from the surroundings quite well. So it warrants more research i think, but im not going to mess around with this anymore until i have an actual control sample of pure DMT that readily crystalizes, and to do that i decided to just brute force a solution using fumaric acid. but its a ways away, so for now ill just keep doing extractions and collect more gooey extract.
 
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i got fumaric acid, did FASA and FASI, and then tried to reX, then freebased, then hexane extracted, at no point even as a fumarate, was i EVER able to obtain a solid. it maintained its goo status the entire time. now however i have an absolutely perfect crystal clear orange oil that drips down the evaporating dish when left at an angle, much like how tar seems to flow like molten glass over a span of centuries.
So, it worked, but, it didnt fix the issue of the extract not bloody forming a solid.

Something interesting did occur though, i accidentally distilled/smoked over DMT out of the raw first NPS extract as i was concentrating it and distilling over like 250ml of toluene. it was so clean though i didnt notice when it turned thick and all the toluene was gone, so then it just kinda started cooking and vaporizing against the glass, but it barely just turned yellow. afterwards i added toluene back and distilled more to rinse the DMT out of the condenser, and later i added FASA to the receiver, and got perfect results. about 40mg of high purity as-described DMT fumarate, formed the right crystals behaved the right way, i have yet to freebase it to see if it crystalizes properly. Just thought id note this. It makes me wonder, what if i tried vacuum distilling raw base instead. at very least it might let me get away from whatever is preventing solid fumarate from forming.

edit- after going back and re-reading the OP which for some reason i havent done at all since trying my own process, i realize something, possibly a method of purifying spice and even seperating them to some degree. My method with IPA was on the mark, although it suffers from a lack of water, and i realized, the OP method here, does just that, they do minimize nasties at first by crashing out undesired gunk. my soup at any given time is like a smoothy its that thick with tannins and such, i just reprocessed the soup before disposing and got more of a yield, and this was after already re-trying yet another time (i think the DMT sticks to tannins and precipitates slowly how readily it touches solvent and migrates, leaving it behind even though theres no bark anymore, thick soup might just be that naughty).
Next though, they do not shake the heated naptha hard on their thinned soup, they dont say why but i bet its just because it has previously formed awful emulsions and they wanted to avoid that. this results in a very gradual dissolution of dmt into the solvent, and this is the key: substances will dissolve slowly, in order, at the interface they might even form supersaturated pockets and crash back out, who knows, molecular physics is chaotic, but, the most soluble things will migrate first and the least soluble things, last.
Having accidentally distilled some of the DMT, entrained in toluene, but distilled nontheless, i note that, the pure crystaline product i got was pure white also while the rest was yellow. so whatever it is causing the coloring is, in some manners or another, heavier.
Because of the controlled manner in which spice dissolved into the solvent, it fractionates, though i think theres probably another word for this since its basically the opposite, its fractional leeching?
anyway, as the dissolution is slow and controlled, and there isnt any extreme forces at play like shaking which can practically FORCE things into solution with mechanical force rather than osmotic/ionic ones, pure DMT is obtained, and its seemingly seperated from whatever it is that encourages the formation of oily polymorphs over crystals. incidentally resins which precipitate out readily even at RT i found, a little, given time, do not enter the solvent at all. shaking can force them in, as can aggressively dissolving into hot solvent which still is nowhere near saturated.
less pure DMT is obtained in subsequent fractions, but this still lacks a critical polymer/polymorphing component, allowing the spice oils to co-crystalize with the dmt, or at least, i assume, form waxes or oils adsorbed/dispersed throughout crystal structures.

The other day i wanted to quickly dissolve my freebase in hexane so i could see if it had been sufficiently purified after being a fumarate salt, i added enough hexane to the evaporating dish i had used, but found it really didnt want to dissolve. it eventually did though with the aid of some stirring and gently heaving the point where the oil was collected, the boiling aggitating it, and etc, but, it really really resisted. under these conditions, it did not want to precipitate, not even close, and it wasnt fogging until the volume was subsequently reduced. but really think about that, i had to force it to dissolve, but then once it was, it would not come out nearly so easily. i know for fact having tried freezing more concentrated, vastly dirtier actual goo, that it would not precipitate out undesirables under the same conditions it was kicking and screaming as i tried to dissolve it.
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So what im getting at if you cant make it through my ramblings is that since spice goo/oil behaves very differently dissolving vs precipitating, perhaps we can exploit this somehow, which is how the thread OP process works too.
I think i at least proved in a simple way, that if you rinse goo with IPA, based on how long it spends in contact, you get totally different compositions oover time while the goo/gum/resin does not dissolve at all until its literally all that is left.
After thinning the base-soup eliminating the floating solids that might radically slow spice mechanically, from reaching the solvent, and just being very gentle, and letting things happen naturally, in chemisties on natural order, pure products were also obtained, much moreso than mine, and i think the difference is the water adds an additional kind of threshhold, adding even more controlled order, maybe reducing what i had, as 5% contaminants making it through, down to 0.1% enough that it finally crystalizes and drove everything to keep on seperating apart as solids and liquids.
So perhaps there is a process we can employ, opposite to fractional crystalization, where we can leech specific portions of available products, at more selective, desirable rates, utilizing the natural ordering of things when left to their own devices, and getting cleaner products based on how the affinity drops off a cliff as a solution becomes saturated. The reason we havent previously seen this is that through shaking, actual water-pressure causes molecules to reach escape velocity, in a manner of speaking, at complete random. very quickly you get 99% of everything in solutionm but then the rules change when its time to do the process in reverse, because a mystery-compound prevents the DMT from assuming a solid form, period, which we rely on to finish seperation during crystalization.
 
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