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I finally got rid of the goo (Acacia Acuminata)

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No I haven’t used Acumiata phyllodes . Like I said I’ve had this bark for 10 years. Found a fallen tree and got the bark off that. Had a long break due to kids so it’s been in storage. Just jumping back in now.

I have used Phlebophylla phyllodes way back in the day. They are the cleanest source of DMT on the planet I believe. They were amazing but they only grow in one area and it’s not sustainable. Even taking the fallen leaves can affect the ecosystem I believe. How has your experience been with Acuminata phyllodes?
 
sillysyban said:
No I haven’t used Acumiata phyllodes . Like I said I’ve had this bark for 10 years. Found a fallen tree and got the bark off that. Had a long break due to kids so it’s been in storage. Just jumping back in now.

I have used Phlebophylla phyllodes way back in the day. They are the cleanest source of DMT on the planet I believe. They were amazing but they only grow in one area and it’s not sustainable. Even taking the fallen leaves can affect the ecosystem I believe. How has your experience been with Acuminata phyllodes?
Yeah they are very clean indeed.. its a very powerful plant. One of my favourites.. really enjoying growing it at the moment. Its a magical plant to have in the garden

My experience with acuminata phyllodes has either been a clear yellow oil sometimes with crystals trying to form. Experientially still feels like very clean DMT

I have a bag of NP phyllodes from when I lived over in WA.. might have to get them out soon
 
Yeah nice. I heard Phleb was very hard to grow outside of Mt Buffalo? Im in WA now so pretty sure they wouldnt grow well here.

Apparently they need the right Bacteria in the soil to thrive right?
 
sillysyban said:
Yeah nice. I heard Phleb was very hard to grow outside of Mt Buffalo? Im in WA now so pretty sure they wouldnt grow well here.

Apparently they need the right Bacteria in the soil to thrive right?
I've heard the same.. probably depends on climate/medium used.. so far mine are doing fantastic but they are only 6 months old
 

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_Trip_ said:
I've been using a 40% garden mix to 30% grit rock and 30% sand loam and my phlebs are loving life. What mixes are you guys using?

Native potting mix (40%)
Coir (30%)
Perlite (10%)
River Sand (20%)

I found that any ratio sort of works really.

Happy to contribute to broad leaf acumimata experiments down the line! Currently have some 2 year old ones growing!
 
Hey All,

Its probably been mentioned here multiple times but I thought I would share my experience. I have had terrible troubles with goo over the years. I am working with Acacia Acuminata bark that is almost 10 years old now. I would do 3 boils of powdered bark, the base out with an excess of Lye to shoot for a high PH and then extract with Shellite (Naptha). I would then perform a mini A/B on this and still get loads of goo that I had to try and clean up resulting in loss of a lot of our beautiful molecule. I had put this down to it being old bark that must have lots of oils or DMT oxide etc.

I have just done an extraction and it turned out beautifully. I made a few changes. I will first outline what I did and what I think made the difference.
I used 500g of bark here (Yes I know that's a lot but I was virtually getting nothing out of my 10 year old bark after trying to clean up masses of goo over multiple mini A/Bs and recrystallizations.

- Shredded 500g of Acacia Acuminata bark. Shredded not powdered. I believe this to be a huge factor in the success of this extraction. I even went as far as to remove the dust from the shredded material before cooking.

- Did 3 times 2 hour cook with 1 liter of vinegar and 3 liters water in a stainless steel pressure cooker. The third cook was significantly lighter in red color than the previous two so I assumed I got most of what I wanted out of the material.

- Combined cooks and reduced to a bit over 2 liters. I let this sit overnight and then strained this through a very fine mesh filter to remove sludge.

- I divided this into two HDPE bottles and added 50 grams of salt to each and dissolved. This seemed to crash out more sludge which I filtered off. From now on I will refer only to one bottle as the process was the same in each.

- I slowly added 50grams of NaOH to 200mls of water and let cool to room temperature. Once at room temperature I added this to the bottle.

- I added 100ml of Shellite and put the bottle onto a sous vide water bath at 40 Deg C (104 F) for a couple of hours. Every 10 to 15 mins I would take it out and GENTLY roll it back and forth for around a minute. It would separate very quickly with no emulsion and I noticed the Shellite was still clear. I also noticed that the bark soup was thin and very liquid with no sludge.

- I separated the Shellite and let evaporate naturally (no fan) over a day until when I blew on it it would instantly turn the whole lot cloudy. This went into the freezer for 24 Hours.

- I did the second and 3rd pulls same method using 80ml and 60ml of Shellite but ran the Sous Vide at 50 Deg C (122F). This time I noticed the Shellite was more yellow in color.

- The first pull came of beautiful and white crystals. The second and third combined was still crystals but definitely with some oils but not straight up goo.

I have NEVER had white crystals from this bark first pull without mini A/B and extensive clean-up. What do I think made the difference?

- Shredded bark and not powdered. I have done the same thing many times with powdered bark and the sludge in my opinion releases A LOT more oils into the soup. These can easily be picked up and once they are they seem hard to get rid of even with a mini A/B. I think this was the single biggest factor in this extraction's success.

- Less NaOH. In my previous extractions I have probably gone way too heavy on the Caustic Soda. I have no idea if that has caused problems or not but it MAY be a factor.

- Controlled temperature. I could definitely see a big difference in color of the Shellite and the resulting spice between 40 Deg C (104F) and 50 Deg C (122F). It may require more pulls to get all the goodies but I'm happy to do that rather than spend time cleaning up. I also think that by controlling temperature you could control how clear or yellow you want your spice. Some like it a bit more yellow with plant oils. There was a tiny patch of yellow in the first pull and I think 35 Deg C would have made it even cleaner. The difference in scraping up the first pull to the second pull was massive with the first pull drying quickly and cleanly and the second pull taking a lot longer for the slight amount of oils in them to dry.

I have attached pics of the difference in color of Shellite between first pull and second pull and resulting spice.

Like I said I know all this info has been put here before but I have put it all down here as it made a massive difference for me. Hope it helps someone.

Cheers.

Edit: I ended up with 6.1g of Nice DMT. Pics attached of 3.1g really clean first pull and 3g of yellower and waxy but still very nice DMT from second and third pulls combined.
Great work man, I’m looking to do my first A.A extraction. Have a bit of experience with MH. What tek did you loosely base this off? Or if anyone could chime in, would a modified simple STB like Norman’s tek work with AA?
Again great work silly
Good pull of nice clean product.
 
Great work man, I’m looking to do my first A.A extraction. Have a bit of experience with MH. What tek did you loosely base this off? Or if anyone could chime in, would a modified simple STB like Norman’s tek work with AA?
Again great work silly
Good pull of nice clean product.

A. acuminata can be harder to work with, depends on what country you're in and what solvents brands etc you have available. My best advice with acuminata is to do an A/B. use hot pulls if using naphtha and use a more 'broad spectrum' solvent for your last pull like xylene/ toulene (which will drastically increase yields but leave more of a goo/wax). In addition, if you get emulsion issues with it add more lye (don't go over board with lye or your soup will turn into a gelatin like mess).
 
A. acuminata can be harder to work with, depends on what country you're in and what solvents brands etc you have available. My best advice with acuminata is to do an A/B. use hot pulls if using naphtha and use a more 'broad spectrum' solvent for your last pull like xylene/ toulene (which will drastically increase yields but leave more of a goo/wax). In addition, if you get emulsion issues with it add more lye (don't go over board with lye or your soup will turn into a gelatin like mess)
Appreciate that. I’m in Australia so I’ll be using shellite.
I must admit, i prefer a lower quantity of crystalline product over the wax/goop, I understand it is essentially all DiMiTri, it’s just a personal preference.
Thanks for the info trip,
I’m apprehensive for my first pull using a new species, But the times they are’a’changing haha
 
Honestly I’m extremely appreciative of the information mate, I’ve been doing a little research and I’ve seen, essentially a slightly modified cybs tek. Minus the warm water bath (instead using the thermal reaction of the NaOH for the pull)
I have also read of some A. Acuminata cold pulls with purported success, I am aware the overall mass of the extracted molecule will be diminished although it seems that carefully monitored temperature during the pull or minimal to no temperature. is a good way to avoid the longer polymers. Would I be correct in assuming that?

However I’m aware the formation of crystal is an elaborate process in general relying on multiple conditions/factors. Like the nature & structure of the molecule that’s aggregating
 
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Yh using the exothermic reaction is a good idea over warm water bath. Yh pretty much on the ball, cold pulls will give nice crystals but drastically decrease yield. You can re-x wax and goo from naphtha pulls anyway.

However, Xylene pulls will give more polymer dmt and likely a few plant fats and or more likely 2-MTHBC. This will increase yeild though and works well for changa. Even as the oil turns to a wax overtime its still easy to work with and smoke. You could convert your goo or wax dmt into dmt benzoate quite easily. It's stable, smokable and can be used orally. But I don't see an issue with using freebase wax over crystal. Crystals do look prettier. And use xylene as a last separate pull and evaporate you can't freeze precipitate from xylene only evap. Not environmental friend but good yields. You could try to crash crystals from xylene once you get the process right.
 
Aside from being potentially challenging for crystalization, acuminata phyllode is a true blessing.. at around 1% that’s a pretty whopping amount of DMT per gram.. some of my most powerful breakthroughs have been from acuminata phyllode. It’s a VERY clean smoke.. In power it stands equally with mimosa IMO.. that’s 100g of “leaves” to produce roughly 25+ breakthrough level doses.

Further more, as I’m sure your aware - bark is higher yield, but stem/twig is covered in bark and is actually cleaner than trunk bark so more pure extract.. check nen888’s tests in the acacia analysis thread.

aka.. if you want crystals, thoughtful pruning of tips of branches will give you some phyllode and twig to work with. Separate them.. makes for better understanding of the species alkaloids. Trunk bark is really never needed :) .. it can kill a tree taking bark off the main trunk. Might take a few months.. might take a year.. but its demise will have been sowed from that harvest.

If I could impart some subjective “wisdom”.. worry about the alkaloids first and crystalize later if needed. Acuminata as an oil or crystal is powerful
 
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Aside from being potentially challenging for crystalization, acuminata phyllode is a true blessing.. at around 1% that’s a pretty whopping amount of DMT per gram.. some of my most powerful breakthroughs have been from acuminata phyllode. It’s a VERY clean smoke.. In power it stands equally with mimosa IMO.. that’s 100g of “leaves” to produce roughly 25+ breakthrough level doses.

Further more, as I’m sure your aware - bark is higher yield, but stem/twig is covered in bark and is actually cleaner than trunk bark so more pure extract.. check nen888’s tests in the acacia analysis thread.

aka.. if you want crystals, thoughtful pruning of tips of branches will give you some phyllode and twig to work with. Separate them.. makes for better understanding of the species alkaloids. Trunk bark is really never needed :) .. it can kill a tree taking bark off the main trunk. Might take a few months.. might take a year.. but its demise will have been sowed from that harvest.

If I could impart some subjective “wisdom”.. worry about the alkaloids first and crystalize later if needed. Acuminata as an oil or crystal is powerful
Hello I want to do a acacia acuminata extraction, I was wondering if you could point me in the direction of what extraction method I should use, also <snip> the acuminata [could be] bark [or] phyllodes, what is better for extraction and do either require a different method? thankyou
 
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im in the middle of an accuminata extraction and am finding it very difficult to observe any sort of crystaline formation, however i was able to bioassay something, some oily looking crystals that form on the rim of the beaker after a few days in the freezer, it definitely contains spice, but, very dirty. since i havent handled the real thing or done a real, successful, extraction start to finish i may be making some significant mistakes, idk. accuminata was all i could get too, otherwise id have tried something else.

Anyway first batch seems like a bust, so im moving onto the second, i was thinking id try this method from the OP for the second batch, though im also going to at the same time reprocess the failed first batch, so, pressure cooking both of them, seperate, and then seeing if anything comes from it, and comparing. I think a critical error with accuminata was using DCM, i fear its pulled WAY too much goo, the second error was not immediately acid/basing the goo.
but i wont make these mistakes a second time, still, accuminata does seem to require some special attention. Im hoping to apply what ive learned to harvest from wild maidenii leaf/branch cuttings, its especially interesting the idea that the pressure cook may be neccesary to break some natural DMT complexes to release the DMT into a form we know, and can target.
 
Don't ditch the goo!

Have a rummage through this thread and some of @acacian's other posts and you should be able to workout how to coax it into giving you crystals.

Did you perform a defat on the acid cooks before adding base? Providing all of the details of your extraction procedure would help a lot with troubleshooting.
 
I would do a double A/B and not use diggers shellite.. it’s pretty crappy stuff now and stopped working reliably for crystals a very long time ago. Shellite/Naptha is a mix of hydrocarbons so it’s not all the same. Different companies may have slightly differing formulas.

Australian shellite always seems to end up with moisture beads after freeze precipitation so you could try mixing it with a drying agent before you put it in the freezer. Using good food grade NaOH is also good practice - as opposed to hardware brands which can contain traces of detergents.. just to eliminate any solvent/other chemical factors. Quality of chemicals used is a great way to eiliminate some variables.. jump on and check MSDS for different brands. Know what your getting is good quality. Lab chemical supply companies are your friend in this sense.. hardware stores maybe not so much.

And clean the hell out of your acidic mixture.. filter filter filter.. fridge decant until that sediment is a solid rock and then filter again. Avoid having your base mixture too hot.. that will increase the amount of other stuff you pull.

Acuminata is such a vastly occurring plant in WA too.. there seems to be so many different forms. Alkaloid profile may change between forms.. even within the narrow phyllodes complex. I know of someone who is convinced there are around 16 different forms of acuminata in WA.. all with differing yields.. all containing DMT though. It’s a very reliable tree if you can try and forget about having white sea urchins..

Just remember whatever you get from narrow phyllode acuminata is almost always clean DMT.. even if it doesn’t look pretty. If your at a wits end with how to store it then make some enhanced leaf.. bipinnate acacias offer a great leaf base to infuse DMT into. Goo does not equal failure.. the majority of my hyperspace forays come from goo.

All in all I’m not convinced that narrow phyllode acuminata “goo” is really anything but DMT and maybe trace other alkaloids. Experientially it is clean and powerful like mimosa. The sooner people stop fretting over non solidified extracts the sooner they may get on with smoking DMT. Of course crystals are nice.. but to be throwing out DMT cos it doesn't look pretty.. this is wasteful and a little insulting to the plant IMO. Take the necessary precautions to ensure your extract is just alkaloids and its good to go. :)
 
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well, a big problem though is the final purification is freeze precipitation, and the appearance is the only true indicator of where plant resins end and dmt begins. ive recrystalized like a dozen times now and, i do get crystals although they mostly melt at room temp (its defs not ice though)

the method i initially followed produced a sizeable blob, it was a dry tek that i thought would work well in my glassware, boy was i wrong. basically, long base-soaks, then leech with methanol, and repeat multiple times over the course of days, my modifications over a standard dry tek would just be that i distilled the methanol to re-use, and that i replaced 10% of the carbonate with hydroxide just because i had my doubts about using only carbonate.

i then acidified with acetic acid, did a DCM defat, boiled away any solvent before filtering to ensure no fats passed through.
then basified and transferred to DCM. upon drying out, i was left with something resembling molten resin. i refluxed it for quite some time in pure hexane until it reduced in mass, and from there ive been freeze precipitating. Tonight i finally got something that looks clean, albeit melts into an oil almost immediately, but, this is an oil, rather than the usual goo, theres only one test left to do to confirm ;)

the blob of resin/goo from the DCM after the defat after 2 hexane refluxes, has also been kept, it smells VERY amine-y, like, its in a ziplock bag, it smells actually fishy when i open it. however it is completely inactive and unpleasant, so i dont know what the deal there is.

i tried smoking some of the precipitated goo, it was hit or miss however. sometimes pleasant, other times horrific, sometimes no trace of effect, other times, mind blowing. so physically there was a mix of DMT and non DMT, and other than the crust ring that formed, i couldnt reliably get anything i knew was DMT, from the goo.


Because the tek i followed didnt involve any actual boiling/freezing i think i screwed up there. i just assumed that the leeching power of fresh methanol each time, manually percolating the bark, would do it. ive now pressure cooked that spent bark and will re-attempt. i also cooked some fresh bark too. its like blood in there, meanwhile the spent bark almost instantly settles out, by comparison its like blood that has cleanly clotted out of the plasma.
If the spent bark yields anything ill abandon everything and just recombine ALL of what i have, and follow a proper tek more strictly.
 
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