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Im a newbie and put togther this tek is it correct and solid?

So I did some reading and watching to understand the process of dmt extraction i still dont fully understand everthing but from what I have learnt I put this tek togther now since im a newbie I dont know if its fully correct and a solid viable method, here it is, refined version:
Materials Needed
- Acacia Bark: 250 grams (shredded and powdered)
- Distilled Water: 500 mL
- Lye (Sodium Hydroxide): 100 grams
- Shellite: 250 mL (or another suitable non-polar solvent but in this case im stuck with shellite)
- Sea Salt: About 50 grams (optional, for purification)
- Mason Jar: Large enough to hold the mixture
- Pan with Water: For the water bath
- Fume Extractor: To ensure good ventilation
- Glass Turkey Baster: For layer separation
- Coffee Filter or Fine Mesh Strainer: For filtering
- Safety Equipment: Gloves, goggles,

Step-by-Step Procedure

1. Preparation:
- Ensure your workspace is clean and well-ventilated.
- Wear gloves and safety goggles.
- Fill a pan with water and place it on the stove, set to a temperature of 40°C.

2. Set Up the Water Bath:
- Place the mason jar in the pan of water. Make sure the water level is sufficient to provide consistent heating.

3. Basification:
- In the mason jar, add 500 mL of distilled water.
- Add 250g of powderded acia bark to the distilled water in the mason jar.
- Stir gently

4. Add the lye & salt:
- In the mason jar, Carefully dissolve 100 grams of lye into the soup in the mason jar.
- Stir gently to mix thoroughly.
-then add 50g of pure sea salt to the soup and stir thoughly.

5. Extraction:
- Add 250 mL of Shellite to the jar. Seal the jar tightly.
- Mix the contents vigorously for about 2 minutes.
- Let the mixture sit for 2 hours, stirring every 20 minutes to maximize extraction.

6. Separation:
- After the 2 hours, carefully remove the jar from the water bath and let it sit undisturbed for an additional 2 hours to allow for clear separation of layers.
- After the separation period, you should see two distinct layers: the upper layer (shellite with DMT) and the lower aqueous layer.

7. Transfer the Shellite:
- Using a glass turkey baster, carefully extract the upper shellite layer and transfer it to a shallow dish or tray with a lid.

8. Freezing:
- place the dish/tray with lid in the freezer for at least 1 night.

9. Evaporation:
- In the morning, check for crystal formation.
-Next remove the tray and pour any shellite into a seprate jar so it can be reused, then Place the tray in a well-ventilated area to allow the Shellite to evaporate completely. This may take several hours or overnight or till no chemical smell is present.

10. Final Processing:
- Filter out any remaining impurities using a coffee filter or fine mesh strainer if needed.

11. Storage:
- Once fully evaporated, store the dry DMT in a cool, dry place away from light and moisture.
12. Reuse (optional)
-shellite can be re added to the soup in the jar to allow multiple pulls.
 
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So I did some reading and watching to understand the process of dmt extraction i still dont fully understand everthing but from what I have learnt I put this tek togther now since im a newbie I dont know if its fully correct and a solid viable method, here it is
DMT Extraction from Acacia Using Shellite

Materials Needed
- Acacia Bark: 250 grams (shredded and powdered)
- Distilled Water: 500 mL
- Lye (Sodium Hydroxide): 20 grams
- Shellite: 500 mL (or another suitable non-polar solvent but in this case im stuck with shellite)
- Sea Salt: About 20 grams (optional, for purification)
- Mason Jar: Large enough to hold the mixture
- Pan with Water: For the water bath
- Fume Extractor: To ensure good ventilation
- Glass Turkey Baster: For layer separation
- Coffee Filter or Fine Mesh Strainer: For filtering
- Safety Equipment: Gloves, goggles,

Step-by-Step Procedure

1. Preparation:
- Ensure your workspace is clean and well-ventilated.
- Wear gloves and safety goggles.
- Fill a pan with water and place it on the stove, set to a temperature of 40°C.

2. Set Up the Water Bath:
- Place the mason jar in the pan of water. Make sure the water level is sufficient to provide consistent heating.

3. Basification:
- In the mason jar, add 500 mL of distilled water.
- Carefully dissolve 20 grams of lye into the distilled water in the mason jar.
- Stir gently to mix thoroughly.

4. Add the Bark:
- Slowly add 250 grams of shredded and powdered Acacia bark to the lye solution in the mason jar, stirring briefly to ensure it's evenly mixed.

5. Extraction:
- Add 500 mL of Shellite to the jar. Seal the jar tightly.
- Mix the contents vigorously for about 2 minutes.
- Let the mixture sit for 2 hours, stirring every 20 minutes to maximize extraction.

6. Separation:
- After the 2 hours, carefully remove the jar from the water bath and let it sit undisturbed for an additional 2 hours to allow for clear separation of layers.
- After the separation period, you should see two distinct layers: the upper layer (shellite with DMT) and the lower aqueous layer.

7. Transfer the Shellite:
- Using a glass turkey baster, carefully extract the upper shellite layer and transfer it to a shallow dish or tray.

8. Evaporation:
- Place the tray in a well-ventilated area to allow the Shellite to evaporate completely. This may take several hours or overnight.
- Optionally, you may add 20 grams of sea salt to the remaining product before evaporation to help purify it.

9. Freezing:
- Once the shellite has evaporated and there is no chemical smell left, transfer the residue to a freezer-safe container and place it in the freezer for at least 1 night.

10. Final Processing:
- In the morning, check for crystal formation. Allow the product to thaw slightly if frozen.
- Filter out any remaining impurities using a coffee filter or fine mesh strainer, then evaporate any remaining solvents as needed.

11. Storage:
- Once fully evaporated, store the dry DMT in a cool, dry place away from light and moisture.
Hey there and welcome. I see what you wrote, but that doesn’t seem to be the best method. I’ve added a link below, it includes several teks that have been verified multiple times and do work. It’s best to pick one from there.


 
8. Evaporation
Wasteful. Instead of evaporating all your solvent, either freeze precipitate the product, or use a vinegar wash - known as "backsalting" - to pull the alkaloids back out of the NPS. In the latter case, you'll end up with a solution of the acetate salt of DMT.

If you want to convert that back to the freebase, there are several ways of going about it, making the process as a whole something known as the "mini A/B".

This is particularly useful as a way of cleaning up extractions from acacia plant material, which often yield oily results, and it can also be performed on the freeze-precipitated material by dissolving it in diluted vinegar or other food grade acid.

Right at the start, you'd be better off doing multiple acid cooks on the bark (if it's Acacia confusa) or, better yet, use phyllodes ("leaves") if it's any of the Australian acacias, since this latter option is far better in terms of sustainability.

Combine all the batches of acidic acacia brew, defat the combined brew and proceed with adding base, pulling, etc. If you're adding salt, it's better to do so before adding the base.

The bit about adding salt prior to crystallisation seems to be a result of confusion - salt water washes - or ones using sodium carbonate solution - will help to remove remnants of the basic solution after collecting the NPS pulls, however.

Have a read through some of the extraction methods that varallo pointed towards; they should help you square up some of these tips. For a more general understanding of how extraction works, read this:

Welcome to the Nexus!
 
8, 9, 10 have errors.

😆
Thanks I posted the same thing on reddit and the salt is meant to be added with the soup and I also reorganised some steps, on reddit someone said add more lye and less solvent so I changed it up does it make sense now?
 
Wasteful. Instead of evaporating all your solvent, either freeze precipitate the product, or use a vinegar wash - known as "backsalting" - to pull the alkaloids back out of the NPS. In the latter case, you'll end up with a solution of the acetate salt of DMT.

If you want to convert that back to the freebase, there are several ways of going about it, making the process as a whole something known as the "mini A/B".

This is particularly useful as a way of cleaning up extractions from acacia plant material, which often yield oily results, and it can also be performed on the freeze-precipitated material by dissolving it in diluted vinegar or other food grade acid.

Right at the start, you'd be better off doing multiple acid cooks on the bark (if it's Acacia confusa) or, better yet, use phyllodes ("leaves") if it's any of the Australian acacias, since this latter option is far better in terms of sustainability.

Combine all the batches of acidic acacia brew, defat the combined brew and proceed with adding base, pulling, etc. If you're adding salt, it's better to do so before adding the base.

The bit about adding salt prior to crystallisation seems to be a result of confusion - salt water washes - or ones using sodium carbonate solution - will help to remove remnants of the basic solution after collecting the NPS pulls, however.

Have a read through some of the extraction methods that varallo pointed towards; they should help you square up some of these tips. For a more general understanding of how extraction works, read this:

Welcome to the Nexus!
With the last stage i am abit confused so do I let the solvent evaporatate then put the tray in freezer or do I put the solvent tray in the freezer wait a night then let it evaporate?
 
Don't evaporate anything at any stage for this first time, I think this part is confusing you.
Use 50ml of Shellite at a time, flip the mason jar ( a borosilicate flask would be better) end to end 50 times then let seperate (usually 10 - 40 minutes).
Use the baster to suck out the top Shellite layer into a small pyrex dish with sealable lid.
Chuck the pyrex dish straight into the freezer and leave over night.
Repeat straight away with another 50ml of Shellite.
I use 5 seperate small pyrex dishes and keep every 50ml or "pull" seperate, so for 250ml worth of solvent you'll need 5 dishes.
The next day the crystals would have formed and be stuck to the pyrex dish, from here you just gently pour off the Shellite and then leave the crystals to dry.

As a side note 250 grams of bark will be too much for most comfortable jars/flasks. I use 50-100 grams in my 1 litre flask and 100-200 grams in my 2 litre flask. The upper ends of both those amounts are bordering on too thick of an aqueous solution. I would suggest doing a first run on 50 grams.
 
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Don't evaporate anything at any stage for this first time, I think this part is confusing you.
Use 50ml of Shellite at a time, flip the mason jar ( a borosilicate flask would be better) end to end 50 times then let seperate (usually 10 - 40 minutes).
Use the baster to suck out the top Shellite layer into a small pyrex dish with sealable lid.
Chuck the pyrex dish straight into the freezer and leave over night.
Repeat straight away with another 50ml of Shellite.
I use 5 seperate small pyrex dishes and keep every 50ml or "pull" seperate, so for 250ml worth of solvent you'll need 5 dishes.
The next day the crystals would have formed and be stuck to the pyrex dish, from here you just gently pour off the Shellite and then leave the crystals to dry.

As a side note 250 grams of bark will be too much for most comfortable jars/flasks. I use 50-100 grams in my 1 litre flask and 100-200 grams in my 2 litre flask. The upper ends of both those amounts are bordering on too thick of an aqueous solution. I would suggest doing a first run on 50 grams.
Alright thanks i undestand it so with the shellite in the dishes I put that in the freezer for a night then remove and leave somewhere ventilated to dry out and so any remaining shellite will be gone and whats left is just crystals
 
Alright thanks i undestand it so with the shellite in the dishes I put that in the freezer for a night then remove and leave somewhere ventilated to dry out and so any remaining shellite will be gone and whats left is just crystals
More or less.

The drop in temperature causes the DMT to crystallise out of the shellite. The remaining shellite is then carefully poured off, using a filter or strainer if necessary to collect any floaters, and put aside for later re-use.

[Naphtha will typically contain up to a gram per litre of DMT which stays dissolved at freezer temperatures so on no account throw it away!]

If you can prop the dish up in the freezer to help the last drops of naphtha drain off, this will go some way towards stopping redissolution of the crystals. Use a lid at all stages of the freezing process to minimise ice formation - stray ice crystals can be misleading and give rise to disappointment!

Once the dish has drained fully, pour off and collect those last drips of naphtha in with the rest of the drainings before transferring the dish to a well-ventilated place to allow the last trace remnants of naphtha to evaporate away.I's a good idea to keep the dish sealed while it warms up to room temperature, especially if you're working somewhere humid.

TL;DR
  • freeze overnight
  • drain thoroughly
  • save naphtha
  • leave crystals to dry
  • protect against moisture during cold processes
 
If you haven't extracted before, just follow an existing Tek. You'll have time to experiment later. There's no reason to or benefit from designing your own without neither experience nor theoretical knowledge.
I have not extracted before and the main reason of making my own tek is its easier to understand and also as its based on exactly what I have available
 
Fair enough, but there are preexisting methods which use exactly the materials you've listed. No need to reinvent the catflap!
I did some more looking and many teks seem to be for mimosa hostilis, and another reason why im trying to make a tek is because I still have a few weeks till my bark arrives, so i have the time though when it does arrive and hopefully by then if I have a viable tek I would still use a smaller amount of bark for example 100g
 
I did some more looking and many teks seem to be for mimosa hostilis, and another reason why im trying to make a tek is because I still have a few weeks till my bark arrives, so i have the time though when it does arrive and hopefully by then if I have a viable tek I would still use a smaller amount of bark for example 100g
Once you understand what's going on, you might realize how a tek, any of them, is basically overkill. It's a very simple 2 or 3 step process. You should spend your time asking specific questions about steps you're confused about, until you know the why's and how's and not just the what-to-do. Why not just ask "hey, i'm new; what's a good, reliable tek for acacia?" and just follow that lol.

For example:
Thanks I posted the same thing on reddit and the salt is meant to be added with the soup and I also reorganised some steps, on reddit someone said add more lye and less solvent so I changed it up does it make sense now?
"More lye and less solvent" is not going to make or break a tek. People could tell you a dozen different things and they'd all be right, because there's so many variations and ultimately most of them don't even matter. You could 100% do this without even weighing or measuring volume.

You should be asking "How do I know how much lye is enough?". That answer will unlock true freedom in your process. The answer is to measure the pH. Keep adding lye until your bark-soup is over 11 pH, it's that easy. Do you know why 11 pH? If not, maybe you should ask that next.
 
Once you understand what's going on, you might realize how a tek, any of them, is basically overkill. It's a very simple 2 or 3 step process. You should spend your time asking specific questions about steps you're confused about, until you know the why's and how's and not just the what-to-do. Why not just ask "hey, i'm new; what's a good, reliable tek for acacia?" and just follow that lol.

For example:

"More lye and less solvent" is not going to make or break a tek. People could tell you a dozen different things and they'd all be right, because there's so many variations and ultimately most of them don't even matter. You could 100% do this without even weighing or measuring volume.

You should be asking "How do I know how much lye is enough?". That answer will unlock true freedom in your process. The answer is to measure the pH. Keep adding lye until your bark-soup is over 11 pH, it's that easy. Do you know why 11 pH? If not, maybe you should ask that next.
Good point, how to know what amounts of lye and salt is enough and what amount of solvent along with what amount of bark is optimal perhaps something universal/some type of rule?
 
Good point, how to know what amounts of lye and salt is enough and what amount of solvent along with what amount of bark is optimal perhaps something universal/some type of rule?
Hey trypter11,

I’d like to ask you to do your homework a bit more thoroughly. I’ve seen your thread, and it seems to me that you’re asking questions you could quite easily have found answers to yourself. With just a bit of prior research, reading up on the topic, sharing what you found, and saying something like “here’s what I’ve seen and read, so I’m concluding that…” you could make the discussion much more interesting. Right now, you’re mostly asking very basic questions and, it seems, avoiding really diving into the material.


My advice: take the time to do that research and then approach the process differently.

Good luck
 
Good point, how to know what amounts of lye and salt is enough and what amount of solvent along with what amount of bark is optimal perhaps something universal/some type of rule?
The existing teks sometimes explain their rationale, and the vast amounts of discussion about them here, on Reddit and elsewhere also discuss the amounts and the reasons for those. IMHO we don't need any more teks at this point. It's really quite a simple process of acid base extraction.

There isn't a definitive answer to your questions.
No NaCl is needed. It is used to help increase the ionic strength of the aqueous solution with the hope that this drives the dmt into the non polar solvent, and or reduces risk of emulsions and keep the NPS 'dry'. I think Cyb's max Ion tek either introduced or at least popularised adding salt.

Most teks use a considerable excess of alkali beyond what is needed to freebase the DMT and achieve the required pH which would only be a few grams, iirc. The arguments for using an excess are that it helps to breakdown (lyse) cell walls and again increases the ionic strength, which are believed to increase yield.

There's also no definitive answer on the volume of water to bark. It remains an area of debate and experimentation. There are some dry teks that use very little water when basing and others that use approx 10 or 20:1 water to bark by weight.

There are other important factors to consider like the extraction temperature, filtering out the plant material or not, whether to cook/heat during the acid soak, the solvent to use. Again, no definitive answers, depends if you want to maximise overall yield of a less clean extract or try to be more selective for DMT.
 
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Good point, how to know what amounts of lye and salt is enough and what amount of solvent along with what amount of bark is optimal perhaps something universal/some type of rule?
@AcaciaConfusedYah already researched the minimum viable amount of NaOH some years ago, so have a look at his posts and follow his methodology.
 
If you haven't extracted before, just follow an existing Tek. You'll have time to experiment later. There's no reason to or benefit from designing your own without neither experience nor theoretical knowledge.
I'm still wondering why people are reinventing the wheel.

I have not extracted before and the main reason of making my own tek is its easier to understand and also as its based on exactly what I have available
This is precisely the reason you should slow down. When you find something you don't understand, you ought to stop there and try to understand it, not skip it and try to make up something YOU understand, when you don't understand Extraction. Do you see the problem here?

I understand wanting to use what you have available, but without understanding the ins and outs of extraction, you may be putting yourself unnecessarily at risk. Also, wanting to use what you have available is a sign of impatience.

So, as @Varallo and others have said, slow down, and do your homework.

This thread will be invaluable.

One love
 
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