Large alteration to Q21Q21's tek to reduce solvent-loss - *Thanks Chronic*

[tele]

Simon jester: Your tip doesn't help for naphtha loss...

 

[q21q21]

The tek has been changed in 2 sections, in tek 2 and tek 1.

I'm looking for critique! I'd be willing to wager I made a spelling mistake or two at the least. Also, how is the clarity?

(Ugh, the colors didn't come through, if it helps you can look in the wiki)
Basification now reads:

This step utilizes the alkalinity of the lime to convert the polar DMT-acetate in the vinegar-water (a polar solvent) into non-polar DMT freebase which is soluble in limonene/xylene (non-polar solvents) and not soluble in water. Since lime can raise the PH to 12-12.5 the PH of the "mush" should be close to that though once again PH testing shouldn't be necessary

MAKE SURE YOUR LIME IS Calcium Hydroxide OR ELSE THE TEK WILL NOT WORK!

Step 1: Add to the mix at least 3g of lime for every 4g of MHRB used. (IE: 150g lime for 200g MHRB)
(More lime will not hurt.)

Adding it bit-by-bit and mixing will be easier to mix, but you can dump it all in if you want.
(For those of you without scales: 1 cup of lime is 130-150g)


Step 2: Stir it very thoroughly until all the pure-white lime is mix and there is no more red. Add very small amounts of water if needed to achieve a moist and consistent mixture.

Note 1: The mix tends to form a "dark top" when you stop mixing that is fine. It is completely normal.

Step 3: Create the right consistency.

The ideal consistency is not super exact. There are 2 main options for consistency. Consistency 1 will work 100% as well as Consistency 2, it may absorb more solvent than Consistency 2.

There will be inevitable solvent loss regardless but my estimate is anywhere from 25%-40% reduction in solvent loss using Consistency 2 which in a 100g MHRB extraction might be 50-80ml less solvent lost. If solvent supplies are plentiful then there should be no problem using Consistency 1 or Consistency 2, remember that they can be RE-USED many times.


Consistency 1: Add water (if needed) to make the mix look like anywhere from thick oatmeal too kinda like thick pea-soup. Both will work fine. If it is like tomato soup that's too soupy!

Step 3a: if it is too dry add some tap water a TINY TINY splash at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it is JUST moistened throughout

Step 3b: if it is too wet add more lime a little bit at a time, stir well and repeat adding and stirring until it thickens and dries to the right consistency

Consistency 2: Either let the mix dry until crumbly (Like the top of an apple crisp) or dry it in the oven (in an oven-safe container!) at 95C or the lowest setting until crumbly.
You don't want it bone-dry because it will absorb more solvent than Consistency 1, if it does get bone-dry then just add some water to make it crumbly.

And I also added this to the top of non-polar wash.

Note 1: The tek is designed to do each step directly after another without any waiting periods except those that are steps.

The first pull if done immediately after getting the lime-bark to one of the consistencies shouldould yield anywhere from 10%-35% (in SWIM's experience.) If the first pull is done after 6-8 hours however it will likely yield 25%-60%. 2 pulls done around 24 hours and 48 hours (or later) should be enough to get 80%-90% of the DMT (In SWIM's experience). Pulls after that tend to be rather small but SWIM highly recommends doing pulls at 1 week and another at 2 or 3 weeks to get all the DMT possible.

Step 1: Add at least 1.5-2ml d-limonene or xylene for every gram of MHRB. (75-100ml for 50g)
This can be done immediately following the addition of the lime or anywhere up to several days later.

 

[tele]

Cool. I would add that if one has bone dried the mixture, it's better to spray some water into the mixture if possible. Makes it more evenly moist.

 

[Analogue]

hm.. I personally like to dump the mush into a bowl with cloth, wrap up the cloth, then squeeze the crap out of it into the bowl. very little water comes out and when it does, its usually not in an emulsion so separation is easy. wonder if I am the only one doing this?

 

[q21q21]

hm.. I personally like to dump the mush into a bowl with cloth, wrap up the cloth, then squeeze the crap out of it into the bowl. very little water comes out and when it does, its usually not in an emulsion so separation is easy. wonder if I am the only one doing this?

That is an interesting strategy. Does it come out crumbly and not-too-wet? If so that seems like it is way better than oven-drying!

I'm sure you can even hang the cloth to dry then do a pull on it later too, haha.

 

[Analogue]

err, i meant after you've tried several pulls, you can squeeze it and much of the solvent that gets emulsified/absorbed will come out.

however, seeing as it might be helpful to be able to squeeze it for consistency and to get solvent out, i was wondering if one just might want to do the whole tek with the mhrb in cloth, like kava kava almost,

for instance, one could do the vinegar/CaO steps in a container with excess water if one chooses, then transfer to cloth to squeeze out excess moisture. Then, one could put the cloth into a steep bowl, break up the bark, add solvent/mix then just squeeze out solvent into collection vessel... however, come to think of it, it would most likely be better to squeeze it as a last step, not sure how easy it is to squeeze out the solvent without completely compacting/drying the mhrb into a ball,but perhaps this is your 'right' consistency though.. ive never tried to do a pull after the big squeeze personally, always been too short on time. will try it out, but it will take maybe a week or more before that happens

you should try it out and tell me what you think!

 

[YTXian]

Not sure if this is the right thread to post this in but I think I may have found another way to minimize solvent loss for this tek.
I'll state the exact numbers for the purpose of duplication;
.75-lb. MHRB
salted with 1 cup water with 5ml. of muratic acid (I don't like the results I get with vinegar)
waited 20min...
Next just under a full pint glass of distilled water was heated (in the microwave, till almost about to boil) and added to the salted bark and .75-lb. hydrated lime was added to this mixture and this mixture was sifted with a spatula untill it was uniform, dark, and grainy but moist. Like finely tilled soil.
Next 1.33 cup(one and one third of a cup to be exact)of naphtha was pured into the mixture. The bark mixture seemed to absorb all of it like a sponge.
This was sifted for a few minutes AND THEN;
another 1.33 cup of HOT WATER was poured into the mix.
This was thoroughly but gently stired with a spatula.
All the naphtha is now floating on top of the root bark mixture and it is my hope that in just a few minutes the imaginary deviant in my basement who is comiting this atrocity will recover almost a full one and a third cups of naphtha.

 

[tele]

What's the difference between use of muratic and acetic acid? Have you compared the yield or the color of the product?

 

[YTXian]

OK; This didn't work as good as it first apeared to. Upon measuring the naphtha returned it is only .75 cups. The rest seems to be in emulsion...maybe I can find a way to settle this emulsion for further recovery of solvent. Oh well, still progress if you consider that yet another way to do this that DOESN'T work was found:?
Tele; yes, I recall you've asked me about this before. I still don't have a good answer based upon measurable quantity and fact, all I have is that, for me, I've noticed the smoke from spice where vinegar was used in this tek seems very harsh and the yeild often slightly less than usual (I'm sure that the quality of the bark is the main thing affecting this but I belive the acid used is a minor factor).
Consider what is created when vinegar is used vs. hydrocloric acid; DMT acetate and DMT HCI respectivly. It has been my experience that DMT acetate converts to freebase in a rather messy and incomplete manor where as DMT hydrocloride converts completly and consistently.
Ofcourse this is based upon my perception and not on mesurements taken by acurate equipment so...once again, I'm not unwilling to admite that I may be in error. I am, however, unwilling to spread false information so I'll make it known that this is really more of my preference and you should reach your own conclusions about this matter.