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Leftover Naptha Heated in Sun gets Cloudy

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DimensionlessBeing

Rising Star
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Swim had a jar of NP that had been used for multiple extractions. It was piss yellow and crystal clear. He had already left it in the freezer for 2 days with no precipitation. He decided put it out in the hot son for several hours to evap some of it. The first time he checked, he saw that the NP had gone real cloudy. After several hours he decided to bring it inside. He swirled it and that kicked up some beige looking sediment that had settled at the bottom. the sediment was not there before the heating and it was notr dust/pollen from being outside. Swim knows this because he left a bucket of clear water out overnight and when he checked, there was very little in the way of dust or particles that had settled in it. Swim asked me what this sediment was from so I figured I'd ask.

Any help will be appreciated. The jar cools as we speak.
 
Got a picture?

Try to seperate the 2 phases, if its sediment just filter through coffee filters or tea bag depending on size of particles (you work it out) and let dry out on the side to examine after maybe? Then freeze. You have evapd it down more, should be s.s

hih
 
1) It coloued be plant material, like fats and oils that have become discoloured due to sun.

or a horrible little elf has come along and tipped cooking oil in there.

2) I do not no, seperate it and examine it hence why i say this. Probally just some crap from the plant. But agian that is not certain.

Lol kind looks like goodies in there. Sepreate it and let it dry out on the side :)

hih
 
Looks like really dirty DMT to me.

"If the plan is to freeze precipitate and one uses more naphtha than the recommended amount, it is recommended to pre-evaporate the naphtha before freezing.


The amount that one should pre-evaporate depends of course on how much solvent used. The idea about pre-evap is that the solvent should be as saturated as possible with dmt so that most or all of it precipitates when put in the freezer. If its not saturated enough, then not much (or not at all) will precipitate. So if one used more than 3:1 ratio of bark:solvent, then pre-evaporate enough to reach the equivalent of it (so if one used, lets say, 100ml per 100g bark, pre evaporating till a third of original volume is recommended). Here's an attempt to explain why not having it saturated enough may result in no or low yield


Later pulls will most likely be less saturated with dmt than first pulls, so for the later pulls (like lets say the 4th and 5th), it would be logical to pre-evaporate even more than the first pulls. In the example given above, instead of evaporating until a third of original volume, maybe one could evaporate until there is only a quarter or a fifth of original volume.

Some people gauge the amount of pre-evaporation by doing it until the solvent starts getting cloudy. "
 
Well, seperation and drying is complete. A fine powdery mixture remains. Smells like spice. Never seen extraction yield powder tho. Swim has been using the same batch of mhrb powder for a month or so and hasnt seen this result. Same NP, Lye water etc...
 
Funny thing; I've just made a similar observation only this persons NP got a cloudy sediment floting in the middle when placed in the freezer.
Other conditions are as follows;

Naphtha pull was done 'Dry-Tek' style.
Mimosa H bark was used for starters but, M H Bark was also USED (two Xylene pulls had been done on it previously), the bark was particularly excellent and produced extra beautiful and neat-o(!) visions:d so, a person waited sixty days without letting the mud dry completely (wrapped the bucket in a plastic bag while the bark was still muddy with residual solvent and water\vinegar).
Warm room-temperature VM&P was then used to pull. This Naphtha was old and had been used a few times before to pull. Plus it too had been kept in a dark, warm and humid place, undisturbed, for about sixty days.
Qt21Qt21 points out that in is not the length of the 'Solve' but, rather, it is the 'Cuagula' which determines how effective the pull is when he says;
"SWIM likes to think of using the non-polar solvent like using water to dissolve some salt. Though the salt will not instantaneously become saturated with salt, it will in a few minutes. Same with the solvent, it is the bark and lime that works for hours, not the solvent."
Lastly, the pan that was used to percipitate was an old, glazed ceramic that had a previous history in some sort of lysergine affair.

When a cloudy, brownish, sediment was observed floting in the middle of the solvent that was diffrent from the small, ruff crystal coating on the sides of the pan, the pan was removed from the freezer. The intention was to warm it back up and then filter the solvent a second time plus clean the pan better.
But the cloud dissolved alot! At a diffrent rate than the crystals too!
:?: Is it oils?! Is it a mold or fungus?! seems absurd but fungus can live in some pretty ruff conditions...
Uhh, thats my two cents. Now I'm considering a fermented DMT Citrate beverage.:shock:
 
Looks like goodies with other crap, clean it up. And freeze the np, see if anything more comes out, you might have to evap abit more though. First I have seen of this, thanks for doing all the pictures aswell.
 
definately jungle. re-x'd w/benzine and the brown seperated. New method for leftover NP is now in swims book.

The picture of theh dried and scraped yield is decieving in terms of color. it was actually a darker brown.
 
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