omnilucident
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Some of you are probably starting to notice my never-ending trail of pleas for help on these forums.
after many many extractions using acuminata phyllodes, and my recent two attempts with bark I have never been able to surpass a 0.05-0.1% yield.
I have adapted many many changes to my recipe and while I have had improvements, I have not broken through into anything like what everyone else on this site seems to get.
I recently had an idea and would like other's input.
up until very recently I did not realise the signifigance of low heat in an extraction. I had always the thought that because shellite's ability to hold dmt increased with heat, that using heat baths of boiling water and adding excess lye throughout would be positive for my yield.
But recently I discovered that dmt+heat+oxygen creates dmt oxide (correct me if this is oversimplified).
So what if the fact that my basic soup had boiled and been shaken a lot before any solvent had touched it (plus lots of heat and oxygen shaking after solvent added) meant that most of the dmt had already converted and thus was not soluble in shellite/naphtha? (read somewhere that dmt oxide was insoluble in naptha)
another reason for me thinking this is that I have never gotten anything remotely like white crystals from freeze precipitation, only small amounts of bright yellow crystals and large amounts of oil frozen to the bottom of vessels (which is re crystalised).
I personally prefer the white n-dmt but have a lot of difficult acquiring it.
the only time this system was good for me is when somehow I managed to precipitate dark green crystals from the phyllodes of acuminata. I strongly believe that the green tint was from plant oils that contained an MAOI (hyperspatial visit was noticably longer) and other interesting compounds. After a session last year with several friends we all agreed that the green crystals contained a friendlier and more helpful spirit than any other we had encountered with dmt.
anyway, sorry for such a long post but I thought this might trigger an interesting discussion.
after many many extractions using acuminata phyllodes, and my recent two attempts with bark I have never been able to surpass a 0.05-0.1% yield.
I have adapted many many changes to my recipe and while I have had improvements, I have not broken through into anything like what everyone else on this site seems to get.
I recently had an idea and would like other's input.
up until very recently I did not realise the signifigance of low heat in an extraction. I had always the thought that because shellite's ability to hold dmt increased with heat, that using heat baths of boiling water and adding excess lye throughout would be positive for my yield.
But recently I discovered that dmt+heat+oxygen creates dmt oxide (correct me if this is oversimplified).
So what if the fact that my basic soup had boiled and been shaken a lot before any solvent had touched it (plus lots of heat and oxygen shaking after solvent added) meant that most of the dmt had already converted and thus was not soluble in shellite/naphtha? (read somewhere that dmt oxide was insoluble in naptha)
another reason for me thinking this is that I have never gotten anything remotely like white crystals from freeze precipitation, only small amounts of bright yellow crystals and large amounts of oil frozen to the bottom of vessels (which is re crystalised).
I personally prefer the white n-dmt but have a lot of difficult acquiring it.
the only time this system was good for me is when somehow I managed to precipitate dark green crystals from the phyllodes of acuminata. I strongly believe that the green tint was from plant oils that contained an MAOI (hyperspatial visit was noticably longer) and other interesting compounds. After a session last year with several friends we all agreed that the green crystals contained a friendlier and more helpful spirit than any other we had encountered with dmt.
anyway, sorry for such a long post but I thought this might trigger an interesting discussion.

, for me importing acrb into Australia is way too risky. So I read until I find an other option.