Mini A/B still yielding yellow result.

[MachineElf88]

Hey guys, I'm doing a mini A/B on some yellow naptha pulls from an A/B extraction using this method - Simple clean-up for NPS pulled from ACRB ( mini AB ) - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

I'm finding that some of the yellow is still making it's way across to the end product. Has anyone else had this experience? I notice a little yellow tinge coming across in the salting phase and then after basing my naptha pulls are very slightly yellow and I get a yellow end result. Can't seem to see why this is happening. I've tried it twice now and got same result.

1. I make 500ml water ph2-3 with phosphoric acid.
2. I mix with my yellow naptha and separate.
3. I basify the water and pull with fresh naptha.

Can anyone shed any light?

 

[Hupecat]

did you find a solution for your problem??
it appears to be the same with SWIM..??
Heptane turns after first short mixing instantly yellow, once added to the based DMT-Water..?

Any idea on this??

 

[Jega]

Another (simpler) option is to do a re-crystallisation- dissolve DMT in a minimal of hot naptha (heated by standing container in a bowl of boiling water from the kettle), decant naptha off and crystallise as usual, being careful to leave dark yellow/brown goo which is at bottom of container behind to discard.

I believe a lot of the yellow is DMT oxide, because I re-x'd some DMT that had been sitting around and there was a lot more yellow gunk than it had on the previous re-x prior to storing.

 

[skoobysnax]

Nothing wrong with yellow spice 8)
A sodium carb wash done on the first round of combined naptha pulls makes a big difference in the end result IMHO. Then a reX. Any spice i did that step with didnt go beige/brown over time. Talking spice 2+yrs old...

 

[benzyme]

Yellow is fine. Even white tryptamine crystals turns yellow after exposure to air for awhile.

It's caused by the oxidation of pyrrole in the indole structure.

 

[Ratatoskr]

god damn if i dont love benzymes posts.

 

[benzyme]

thanks.

I'm on a crusade to squash the misconception of "yellow/orange must mean plant fats" on the dmt sub.
I've done lcms analyses on a few extracts, and none of them had fatty acids. goo can mean dimers/polymers, from what I've seen.

 

[Tony6Strings]

My most intense trip yet was loaded from one of my vials of yellow.

 

[KuzeMaf]

thanks.

I'm on a crusade to squash the misconception of "yellow/orange must mean plant fats" on the dmt sub.
I've done lcms analyses on a few extracts, and none of them had fatty acids. goo can mean dimers/polymers, from what I've seen.

I will happily join this crusade. Can you direct me to any relevant spice analysis posts?

It's as simple as the oxidation of pyrrole... Wow, this is why I love chemistry.. such a simple explanation.. I wish I would've understood this 10 years ago. Soooo much misinformation has been spread by my own hands that I now feel like I have an ethical duty to right my wrongs.

Keep the analytical posts coming :thumb_up:

Light and Love and Travel Well.

 

[Hupecat]

Nothing wrong with yellow spice 8)
A sodium carb wash done on the first round of combined naptha pulls makes a big difference in the end result IMHO. Then a reX. Any spice i did that step with didnt go beige/brown over time. Talking spice 2+yrs old...

agree...

But isnt it weird that after the mini a/b- the spice still comes out as yellow..??
normally no yellow should have been transferred into the acid water, should it?

 

[benzyme]

thanks.

I'm on a crusade to squash the misconception of "yellow/orange must mean plant fats" on the dmt sub.
I've done lcms analyses on a few extracts, and none of them had fatty acids. goo can mean dimers/polymers, from what I've seen.

I will happily join this crusade. Can you direct me to any relevant spice analysis posts?

It's as simple as the oxidation of pyrrole... Wow, this is why I love chemistry.. such a simple explanation.. I wish I would've understood this 10 years ago. Soooo much misinformation has been spread by my own hands that I now feel like I have an ethical duty to right my wrongs.

Keep the analytical posts coming :thumb_up:

Light and Love and Travel Well.

thanks 8)

here is an example.

I don't think many understand that crystals and fats don't necessarily coexist. Fatty acids disrupt the crystal lattice, and would separate out as an oil anyway. What I've seen with goo is dimerized dmt. This makes sense, since there may be various polymorphs of dmt, they may not arrange neatly into a homogenous lattice. The way to break the dimer bonds is to acidify, convert to a salt. then basify (which may still form dimers, but less than what you started with).

 

[exiled reaper]

HI, a few things here,
if u r getting slightly yellow crystals, before you crash your product out , do a sodium wash and repull dmt. make sure you are very precise and dont contaminate anything!! sometimes it can be harder than it seems.

Be carefull as the corrosive liquid is now crystal clear(like water) but you should feel it as slimey if it leaks...(lye/sodium and water mix)

when u first put your yellow naptha into the cleaning bottle solution(water and lye) it will crash the dmt out and you can discard the oils and crap and continue rolling and mixing fatty naptha through cleaning solution and let settle and decantn crap. repeat until you oils are gone(usually 5 x 50 = 250 ml naptha which is(RINSE)/ REMOVE/COLLECT ALL YOUR CRAP AND DISCARD(dmt will be in clr solution now.. then re add napth 5 x 50mm pulls and pull your clean product out.... collect) when u collect the last bit, put it into a small shot glass and De-canten so as not to contaminate and when doing any pulls with dmt/sodium and naptha ONLY go to the last depth of retrieval on your last pull as it will save you alot of time and contamination risks...(have alot of vinegar on standby to clean everything and neutralise everything as you go)..

This is also how to clean acrb to pure white crystals

And on the second note of crappy contaminated spice.. I have made and cleaned and used many different coloured spices and in my opinion really red contaminated/brown Dmt/nmt/plant fats combined are very active but add alot of load to your trip and are not as potent as say a clear/white or nice yellow dmt.

Red is the less potent (jungle spice) of the dmt range but long lasting effects due to other alkaloids depending on the source plant

..Orange/waxy Dmt is better than Red as it has higher Nndmt content than other alkaloids compared to the red but still isnt as potent as yellow or white.. Works fine and a little different as it will last longer than yellow or clr but the more colour the less Nndmt content per weighed dose..

yellow powder Dmt is very potent in duration and effect at medium to high doses and seems usually to be very vibrant. yellow Dmt is usually a Nndmt/Nmt combo with maybe a little contamination from plant alkaloids but if u wash you Dmt it will remove all fats... and oils ..
Some say yellow is more like the traditional aya/spiritual way as it has the original source plant mixed in. you are not just isolating Nndmt you are getting a slight mix..I have had some very profound experiences with Yellow Powder Dmt....



Crystal clearr dmt crystals are both beatiful to watch grow and consume.
They are very light in weight comparison to the coloured dmt batches and are less smelly..
these are by far the best to smoke high doses with as the body load is less as there are no other alkaloids present only Nndmt.. This is the Best in my opinion followed closely by yellow powder
,,
The waxy dmts are active but are very variable in effects and alkaloids/tryptamines and other shit you are consuming...

Ive had goo too and extracted pure nmt crystals and the more nmt in you dmt the more pro longed the initial trip wil be, the nmt/goo in acrb has a slight maoi effect with a harmala alkaloid enclosed..Bonus! but heavy lol

Happy travells.. Look on Earthwalkers posts for the sodium/water wash and re-x for exact ml or pm me and i will post , just cant remember the exact atm but i do have written down... PEACE and HAPPY TRAVELS always show yourself and spice respect and it will show you respect. abuse it and it will kick your ass!!!!!...

ALL DMT WILL TURN COLOUR WITH EXPOSURE TO OXYGEN!

CLEAR will turn White
White to Pale white
Pale White to a brownish tinge
Yellow to darker / pinkish yellow
orange - waxy blob

KEEP DMT IN AIRTIGHT CONTAINERS IN A DARK SPOT THAT DOSNT GET ABOVE 20 degrees celcius..For long term storage put in airtight containers wrapped in plastic, ect sealed like a mofo and it will last years and years and years...

 

[exiled reaper]

Use Naptha - sodium hydroxide, vinegar... or citric acid..
Make sure all you chemicals are 100% clean. all the stuff we need can come with less potent products.. eg most lye powder is tainted with dyes and crap unless you search and find the best you can not the cheapest or first and same goes for vinegar and Naptha.. you want a natural - not chemically made one with contaminants.. CHECK THE LABELS and do a little research on the shit you are using.. ,maybe its the glue off a seal on a lid on a jar, maybe it off your turkey baster..I had all this to deal with as well.. Are you covering your jar lids with a plastic so as not to contaminate with the crap under the lid?? and if you are make sure its PE5 chemical grade plastic or the covering will breakdown and leak into your product.... ARE YOU USING DEMINERALISED WATER!!($5 from supermarket for 10l) if you dont your product will have a slight yellow tinge no matter what u do.. All tap water is tainted with many different chemicals... IS YOUR SALT IODISED( got iodine in it - which creates a pale yellow spice??). you dont sound silly at all, just check this stuff as it all makes a difference..
Making Dmt is not rocket science but getting pure clean crystals is a precise job,..
.Good luck i hope i helped..

 

[downwardsfromzero]

It seems worth re-stating what Benzyme says about yellow DMT:

Yellow is fine. Even white tryptamine crystals turns yellow after exposure to air for awhile.

It's caused by the oxidation of pyrrole in the indole structure.

I'm on a crusade to squash the misconception of "yellow/orange must mean plant fats" on the dmt sub.
I've done lcms analyses on a few extracts, and none of them had fatty acids. goo can mean dimers/polymers, from what I've seen.

I don't think many understand that crystals and fats don't necessarily coexist. Fatty acids disrupt the crystal lattice, and would separate out as an oil anyway. What I've seen with goo is dimerized dmt. This makes sense, since there may be various polymorphs of dmt, they may not arrange neatly into a homogenous lattice. The way to break the dimer bonds is to acidify, convert to a salt. then basify (which may still form dimers, but less than what you started with).

[...]REMOVE/COLLECT ALL YOUR CRAP AND DISCARD[...]

It's very much worth checking that your 'crap' is actually crap and that you're not throwing away a large portion of your your yield which has simply dimerised/oligomerised. This is borne out by the observation that the orange-coloured oil which separates when performing a recrystallisation with heptane typically will still crystallise on cooling and consists almost entirely of DMT.

Actual contaminants that make it through to freeze precipitation are most often particles of base soup that got carried over to the precipitation container. Avoiding this is a matter of improving the separation technique when removing the naphtha from the base soup.

Contamination through use of sub-standard materials is, as suggested, something which can be prevented through due diligence in selection of materials. The would-be extractor should not allow this to happen; if quality materials are not immediately available then it is best to wait until they have been located.