rainbowserpent
Rising Star
(last edited February 6 2008...still working on getting the linguistics up to a high standard...suggestions still are loved 
)
Hey, so someone who really isn't me made this A/B tek based on experiences of several groups and a large collection of information over time. This works especially well for pre-powdered MHRB and for anyone having trouble with either STB teks or with efficiency or purity regarding A/B teks. This leaves one with a very pure result off the bat.
It started with the basic marsofold tek and then changed a bunch of things (number of times bark is cooked, pH bark is cooked in, filtering solids from liquids to ensure efficiency, pH bark is basified to, number of naphtha pulls, removed the ammonia wash, replaced evaporation with freeze precipitation). The person who made the tek was frusterated that no A/B teks were efficient enough, and was not the first person to have trouble with prepowdered bark going STB (nor did they want to deal with heating naphtha due to the danger/vapors). Also, directions were made to be as convenient and practical as possible.
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Why to use this extraction? This extraction is preferable if you have pre-powdered mimosa hostilis rootbark, or if you are attempting to extract DMT from the rootbark in an easy and practical manner. Also, it produces fantastic results if the directions are followed, shortcuts are not taken, and the process is understood
Materials required:
2 half-gallon mason jars
1 small glass mason jar
1 crockpot (or medium-large stove-top pot)
1 gallon white vinegar (distilled to 5% acidity)
1 pound sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
1 half-gallon VM&P Naphtha
1 glass turkey baster
1 pair nitrile gloves
1 pair safety goggles
1 glass baking dish
1 metal coffee filter
1 glass measuring cup
1 pound mimosa hostilis rootbark
Break up the rootbark in the finest pieces possible and grind it up in a glass-topped blender, a little at a time. (The alternative to whole bark being prepowdered bark. Some prefer to see the bark whole to better tell its quality, but if the source is trusted, prepowdered bark removes this step).
Acidification: Use a 1 part vinegar : 1 part water solution. Put the ground-up Mimosa in a 3-Liter crockpot (or pot on stove), then fill it with the water-vinegar solution until the liquid stirs easy…but not too easy. The consistency one should look for here is similar to a liquidy sauce. Turn the on a setting that will allow the bark to simmer without going into a boil. Continue stirring every 10-15 minutes and let the bark simmer for 2 hours. When the bark is heating up for the first time adding more solution might be necessary in order to keep the correct consistency.
~Burn some incense or sage during this process. Even if you don’t believe in metaphysical things…burn some incense or sage during this process~ Note: This is not necessary, and so can be skipped, but was included.
After 2 hours put the ceramic liner of the crockpot in the fridge and let sit for several hours/overnight. As the bark cools it will separate from the liquid…making for a MUCH easier filtration process. When everything is cold pour the liquid through a metal coffee filter into a measuring container (500mL). If the metal coffee filter fits into the container in such a way that the filter is above the liquid, this is best. Take the wet bark and push the remaining liquid out of it so the bark is semi-dry. Put the liquid into a half-gallon mason jar and put the bark back into the crockpot (only do this once you have filtered all the bark).
Take the liquid and filter that again…depending on how hot the liquid was/how fine the filter was, a fair amount of bark can get through the filter the first time.
NOTE: If enough time has passed for the bark to cool one does not have to use a filter if they correctly pour off the liquid. This step was included because it increases efficiency and because often times minute amounts of particles can be floating around in the solution and can make for slightly less pure spice. While filtering is not required, if time is not in issue, it is recommended.
Repeat the simmering process (for longer this time) and then the filtering process. Up to 4 times can be done (generally each longer than the first…making sure never to let the liquid boil) before the bark isn’t worth cooking again. The bark can now be discarded. Generally, cooking the bark 4 times will result in 2 half-gallon mason jars slightly over half full each.
Basification: Add around 200-300mL of cold water to a different mason jar and add between 6-8 tablespoons of NaOH (sodium hydroxide) to the cold water in the separate container.
*One might not need quite that much NaOH, and as such can play around with the numbers if they are so inclined, but these measurements will produce fantastic results!*
Stir the cold water until the NaOH dissolves (and the H2O/NaOH solution heats up) and then slowly add half of the solution to each jar of acidified liquid while stirring them in order to prevent incredible accumulations of NaOH to hit any particular spot of the original solutions.
As they basify the liquid will go from red to white to brown to black (though see-through black can look brown). Each jar should turn black with around 25% of the NaOH left to pour in each to ensure that the final pH is high enough (13.5+). Having the pH this high helps separate layers (and settle emulsions) during the nonpolar extraction and also ensures that all the DMT will be converted to freebase and extracted with naphtha.
Nonpolar Extraction...(aka extraction of DMT from basified solution):
Depending on how much room is left in each jar add between 100-200ml of VM&P Naptha to the each jar (amount dependent on both space and number of extractions done). Put the lids on the jars and turn each jar end-over-end (around once per second) for 7-10 minutes. Let each jar sit for around 15 minutes, after which point two layers should be visible. There may be a layer of bubbles in the clear layer (generally the jar with the 3rd and 4th brew has this more) which must move into the lower layer before they can be separated. This can take a while, but may not. Use a glass turkey baster to suck up the top clear layer into a glass baking container and repeat the non-polar extraction up to 3 more times. When finished, the basified layer can be put down plumbing.
Freeze-precipitation/evaporation: When all of the naphtha is collected the container must sit for a period of time until part of the solution evaporates (let it evaporate outside or in a place where nothing living will breathe the vapors…it is a good idea to always work with naphtha outside). Generally between 1/3 to 2/3 of the solution evaporating is a good amount, but if the solution starts to become cloudy or crystals start to form it is a good sign that the solution is ready. [note: if it is cold outside crystals can form even if the solution is not ready].
**check for tiny black dots in the solution. This is NaOH solution. If there is some (or other impurities), don’t panic. Use a turkey baster to transfer the solution to another container. If this is done in even a semi-careful manner the NaOH will be left in the first container…you CAN NOT let any be in your final solution. Also, doing this can remove the bottom layer of oil that sometimes forms as the naphtha evaporates down.**
Cover the container with plastic wrap and put it in a freezer (on its coldest setting) for 36-72 hours (sometimes crystals form late). The solution has to be saturated enough for almost all of the DMT to precipitate out in the cold…hence why the prior evaporation was required. Once the DMT has precipitated out of the solution it will mostly freeze to the sides. Remove the plastic wrap and take the container out of the freezer. Pour all of the naphtha into another container (with the suspended DMT) and if possible pour the naphtha out of that container in such a way that the suspended DMT is caught on the sides. (Obviously, do this while it is still freezing). Evaporate the leftover naphtha (which contains oils and a trace amount of DMT) because naphtha is toxic. You can either refine the oil, save it up or discard it.
If everything worked out correctly you should be left with off-white/slightly-yellow DMT powder and/or crystals that you can scrape off with a razor blade. Sometimes you even will get clear crystals. The crystals are denser than the powder and generally smoke better. Clear crystals smoke better than yellow ones. When smoking, use between 20-100mgs and make sure to keep the lighter from burning the DMT (keep it FAR away!). Hold in hits for a long time. Generally, for full effects, one should use more DMT than they plan on smoking (because of inefficiency/burning/not smoking it all) and take several hits. As one is taking the last hit they should be hallucinating hard. At that point relaxing is the best thing they can do.
much love and hope for all
namaste
)Hey, so someone who really isn't me made this A/B tek based on experiences of several groups and a large collection of information over time. This works especially well for pre-powdered MHRB and for anyone having trouble with either STB teks or with efficiency or purity regarding A/B teks. This leaves one with a very pure result off the bat.
It started with the basic marsofold tek and then changed a bunch of things (number of times bark is cooked, pH bark is cooked in, filtering solids from liquids to ensure efficiency, pH bark is basified to, number of naphtha pulls, removed the ammonia wash, replaced evaporation with freeze precipitation). The person who made the tek was frusterated that no A/B teks were efficient enough, and was not the first person to have trouble with prepowdered bark going STB (nor did they want to deal with heating naphtha due to the danger/vapors). Also, directions were made to be as convenient and practical as possible.
------
Why to use this extraction? This extraction is preferable if you have pre-powdered mimosa hostilis rootbark, or if you are attempting to extract DMT from the rootbark in an easy and practical manner. Also, it produces fantastic results if the directions are followed, shortcuts are not taken, and the process is understood
Materials required:
2 half-gallon mason jars
1 small glass mason jar
1 crockpot (or medium-large stove-top pot)
1 gallon white vinegar (distilled to 5% acidity)
1 pound sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
1 half-gallon VM&P Naphtha
1 glass turkey baster
1 pair nitrile gloves
1 pair safety goggles
1 glass baking dish
1 metal coffee filter
1 glass measuring cup
1 pound mimosa hostilis rootbark
Break up the rootbark in the finest pieces possible and grind it up in a glass-topped blender, a little at a time. (The alternative to whole bark being prepowdered bark. Some prefer to see the bark whole to better tell its quality, but if the source is trusted, prepowdered bark removes this step).
Acidification: Use a 1 part vinegar : 1 part water solution. Put the ground-up Mimosa in a 3-Liter crockpot (or pot on stove), then fill it with the water-vinegar solution until the liquid stirs easy…but not too easy. The consistency one should look for here is similar to a liquidy sauce. Turn the on a setting that will allow the bark to simmer without going into a boil. Continue stirring every 10-15 minutes and let the bark simmer for 2 hours. When the bark is heating up for the first time adding more solution might be necessary in order to keep the correct consistency.
~Burn some incense or sage during this process. Even if you don’t believe in metaphysical things…burn some incense or sage during this process~ Note: This is not necessary, and so can be skipped, but was included.
After 2 hours put the ceramic liner of the crockpot in the fridge and let sit for several hours/overnight. As the bark cools it will separate from the liquid…making for a MUCH easier filtration process. When everything is cold pour the liquid through a metal coffee filter into a measuring container (500mL). If the metal coffee filter fits into the container in such a way that the filter is above the liquid, this is best. Take the wet bark and push the remaining liquid out of it so the bark is semi-dry. Put the liquid into a half-gallon mason jar and put the bark back into the crockpot (only do this once you have filtered all the bark).
Take the liquid and filter that again…depending on how hot the liquid was/how fine the filter was, a fair amount of bark can get through the filter the first time.
NOTE: If enough time has passed for the bark to cool one does not have to use a filter if they correctly pour off the liquid. This step was included because it increases efficiency and because often times minute amounts of particles can be floating around in the solution and can make for slightly less pure spice. While filtering is not required, if time is not in issue, it is recommended.
Repeat the simmering process (for longer this time) and then the filtering process. Up to 4 times can be done (generally each longer than the first…making sure never to let the liquid boil) before the bark isn’t worth cooking again. The bark can now be discarded. Generally, cooking the bark 4 times will result in 2 half-gallon mason jars slightly over half full each.
Basification: Add around 200-300mL of cold water to a different mason jar and add between 6-8 tablespoons of NaOH (sodium hydroxide) to the cold water in the separate container.
*One might not need quite that much NaOH, and as such can play around with the numbers if they are so inclined, but these measurements will produce fantastic results!*
Stir the cold water until the NaOH dissolves (and the H2O/NaOH solution heats up) and then slowly add half of the solution to each jar of acidified liquid while stirring them in order to prevent incredible accumulations of NaOH to hit any particular spot of the original solutions.
As they basify the liquid will go from red to white to brown to black (though see-through black can look brown). Each jar should turn black with around 25% of the NaOH left to pour in each to ensure that the final pH is high enough (13.5+). Having the pH this high helps separate layers (and settle emulsions) during the nonpolar extraction and also ensures that all the DMT will be converted to freebase and extracted with naphtha.
Nonpolar Extraction...(aka extraction of DMT from basified solution):
Depending on how much room is left in each jar add between 100-200ml of VM&P Naptha to the each jar (amount dependent on both space and number of extractions done). Put the lids on the jars and turn each jar end-over-end (around once per second) for 7-10 minutes. Let each jar sit for around 15 minutes, after which point two layers should be visible. There may be a layer of bubbles in the clear layer (generally the jar with the 3rd and 4th brew has this more) which must move into the lower layer before they can be separated. This can take a while, but may not. Use a glass turkey baster to suck up the top clear layer into a glass baking container and repeat the non-polar extraction up to 3 more times. When finished, the basified layer can be put down plumbing.
Freeze-precipitation/evaporation: When all of the naphtha is collected the container must sit for a period of time until part of the solution evaporates (let it evaporate outside or in a place where nothing living will breathe the vapors…it is a good idea to always work with naphtha outside). Generally between 1/3 to 2/3 of the solution evaporating is a good amount, but if the solution starts to become cloudy or crystals start to form it is a good sign that the solution is ready. [note: if it is cold outside crystals can form even if the solution is not ready].
**check for tiny black dots in the solution. This is NaOH solution. If there is some (or other impurities), don’t panic. Use a turkey baster to transfer the solution to another container. If this is done in even a semi-careful manner the NaOH will be left in the first container…you CAN NOT let any be in your final solution. Also, doing this can remove the bottom layer of oil that sometimes forms as the naphtha evaporates down.**
Cover the container with plastic wrap and put it in a freezer (on its coldest setting) for 36-72 hours (sometimes crystals form late). The solution has to be saturated enough for almost all of the DMT to precipitate out in the cold…hence why the prior evaporation was required. Once the DMT has precipitated out of the solution it will mostly freeze to the sides. Remove the plastic wrap and take the container out of the freezer. Pour all of the naphtha into another container (with the suspended DMT) and if possible pour the naphtha out of that container in such a way that the suspended DMT is caught on the sides. (Obviously, do this while it is still freezing). Evaporate the leftover naphtha (which contains oils and a trace amount of DMT) because naphtha is toxic. You can either refine the oil, save it up or discard it.
If everything worked out correctly you should be left with off-white/slightly-yellow DMT powder and/or crystals that you can scrape off with a razor blade. Sometimes you even will get clear crystals. The crystals are denser than the powder and generally smoke better. Clear crystals smoke better than yellow ones. When smoking, use between 20-100mgs and make sure to keep the lighter from burning the DMT (keep it FAR away!). Hold in hits for a long time. Generally, for full effects, one should use more DMT than they plan on smoking (because of inefficiency/burning/not smoking it all) and take several hits. As one is taking the last hit they should be hallucinating hard. At that point relaxing is the best thing they can do.
much love and hope for all
namaste
If anything marsofold needs more credit because that was a great starting point.
