Here you go Manic Minxx:
This is information put together from several SWIY's on this forum...69ron, Jorkest, Bufoman, SyZy, uhhhh, some others probably.
The 'Food Grade DMT Tek', is a non-toxic tek that utilizes LIME, LIMONENE & FUMARIC ACID. SWIM uses this tek just as it is shown here. It works...as SWIM performs it with his specific tools. The interspersed white text is SWIM's notes to whomever is reading it.
This is a document he put together for himself. He's been working on revising it so that it could be posted and understood by others...i.e., filling in informational gaps where SWIM didn't feel the need to write down what was happening. He's only gotten so far though....to the Bufoman Water Re-Xstal, he thinks.
However, Manic Minxx can use '69ron's Food Grade DMT Tek' to begin her/his experiments. Jorkest's new development, the FASI precipitation, can be implemented into the tek @ step 4. So, at after Step 3 of this tek, Minxx can jump to Step 4 of the BLAB. OR, this tek can used as is, with the FASW options in steps 4 & 5.
As for freebasing, there are several ways to go about it, but you will find below some different methods and notes about the conversion.
Hope this helps.
It took more than a few minutes to change ALL THE COLORS!
Would like to do more, but busy, busy, busy.
Any questions, just ask.
69ron's Food Grade DMT Tek:
It's basically a double A/B.
Here are all the steps to end up with freebase DMT using just d-limonene:
1 - Powderize your mimosa bark. Mix 100 grams of bark with 25 grams of calcium hydroxide. Add enough water to make it feel wet but not watery. Mix thoroughly.
(note) SWIM does this in a large 1000ml pyrex measuring cup.
(note) For mixing up this chunky stuff, SWIM uses an over-sized, stainless-steel turkey fork (the tips help to separate the stuff). Chop the stuff, flip it, flop it, push it, churn it, slice through it sideways.....whatever can be done to mix it without making a mess outside of the cup.
2 - Add 300 ml of d-limonene. Mix very thoroughly.. Let sit a few hours or overnight, mixing now and then (THOROUGHLY!!).
(note) For mixing the limonene thoroughly throughout the basified bark stuff, a stainless steel whisk is the best tool. Put the whisk down in there and spin it back and forth like you're trying to start a fire with a stick, only NOT TOO FAST. Take it slow at first and find a good speed/technique without splashing limonene outside the cup. Up, down, round and round. Tilt this way, tilt that way. As you mix, the bark will gather in the whisk....simply spin the whisk back and forth (carefully) while slowly lifting it out of the limonene. The bark re-enters the limonene. Try it and see. It's easy.
3 - Pour off the d-limonene through a filter into the container you'll use to mix in the acid(acetic or FASW).
(note) SWIM pours his through a stainless steel tea strainer (a sieve) into a glass beaker that has a nice pouring lip/spout. Then he pours the limonene into his separatory funnel.
(note) On the last limonene pull, SWIM uses a french press (glass with stainless steel parts) to squeeze out the remaining limonene that is residing in the bark mix, pouring it through the stainless steel tea strainer and into the beaker....the french press is invaluable for this....one could also use The Herbal Perculator or a stainless steel/glass funnel with cheesecloth/coffee filters....anyway to filter and squeeze out the remaining limonene....this is only necessary on the last limonene pull.
4 - Add 25 ml of vinegar to the d-limonene. Mix thoroughly, by swirling and/or shaking....aka, the separatory funnel cha cha....some good energetic music helps make this an enjoyable process. 8)
4 option: instead of using vinegar, add 25 ml of FumaricAcidSaturatedWater (150mg fumaric acid per 25ml hot H2O) for every 75 ml of d-limonene; mix thoroughly, but don't get too carried away.
(note) The vinegar or FASW is added directly into the separatory funnel that contains the limonene.
5 - Separate the vinegar from the d-limonene (vinegar is bottom layer, d-limonene is top layer). This vinegar will contain DMT acetate. Evaporate your vinegar in a food dehydrator, or oven with door open, at 155 F to get sticky DMT acetate.
5 option: separate the FASW from the d-limonene (FASW is bottom layer, d-limonene is top layer); Evaporate your FASW in a food dehydrator, or oven with door open, at 155 F to get DMT fumarate + excess fumaric acid.
(note) Separation is a cinch with a separatory funnel. SWIM tried a gravy separator and was very annoyed, because the base of the spout was about 2cm from the bottom of the glass itself. It didn't work satisfactorily for SWIM....*shrugs shoulders* whatever works best for you.
6 - Repeat steps 4 & 5 at least 2-3 times,
7 - Repeat steps 2 - 6 at least 2 times.
69ron's Method of removing Excess Fumaric Acid:
Bring the DMT saturated FASW to near freezing and most of the excess fumaric acid will sink to the bottom of the water and can be filtered off; lastly, evaporate to reveal nearly pure DMT fumarate with traces of fumaric acid as the only contaminant.
(note) SWIM has not tried this method. It probably works great.
Bufoman's Method of Removing Excess Fumaric Acid:
To separate the desirables from the fumaric acid one simply adds 12mL H2O per gram of material. (the DMT fumarate is soluble in the water while the fumaric acid is not).
The aqueous (now yellow) solution is carefully decanted into a clean beaker or drying surface.
The water is reduced by 1/2 with a hair drier and then allow to sit open to the air and slowly evaporate.
Within a day (at most) large transparent crystals will begin to precipitate out one can collect these. (If one does not care about ascetics the solution can just be rapidly evaporate with a hair drier or on the oven and the crystals utilized right away. However SWIM recommends the crystallization.)
The remaining solution is then reduced again with a hair drier and allowed to sit as before. Once it has fully evaporated the crystals can be collected.
One now has highly pure DMT fumarate. The crystals are very nice to look at. One can attempt to wash the fumaric acid crystals again with an additional 10mL of H2O to see if any crystals are obtained however due to its solubility most of the DMT fumarate will collect during the first attempt.
(note) SWIM uses this method and finds it satisfactory.
Jorkest's Sodium Carbonate/Ethanol Method For Getting Freebase DMT:
well once you get to the dmt acetate (or dmt fumarate) you freebase again with some sodium carbonate and a bit of water
dry that..and then soak it in ethanol...pour of ethanol and evap for smokeable spice..
Time to freebase. Depending on how much DMT fumarate you have been able to get, add two parts sodium carbonate. So, if you got 1g DMT fumarate, you would add 2g sodium carbonate. Then add 2-4ml of water, just enough to get it nice and wet. Stir this for awhile, it will probably bubble a little bit. Make sure any chunks get absorbed, this may take 5-10 minutes. Throw this into the food dehydrator until dry. Once dry,
SyZyGyPSy's Sodium Carbonate/Isopropanol Method For Getting Freebase DMT:
How to get freebase:
SWIM would not recommend ron's method, though apparently it works.
What SWIM does is get dmt acetate (any other salt should be fine as well), then redissolve it in a little HOT distilled water.
Then, in an eyedropper bottle, he has the bottle roughly 1/3 of the way filled with this redissolved acetic salt solution... he adds another 1/3 warm saturated sodium carbonate solution. Then he fills the eyedropper bottle the rest of the way up with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol). He agitates and the layers separate, iso on top. Using the eyedropper he removes the iso layer which contains the freebase alkaloids, then adds more iso and repeats two more times (3x total iso pulls) then combines iso pulls and evaps. There's still a little sodium carbonate residue cuz it's an incomplete separation, but there's much less that there would be if he just evapped the aqueous layer.
Then he uses anhydrous iso to redissolve the alkaloid goo, using a spoon to crush up the insoluble sodium carbonate residue and liberate any molecules trapped in it. He does this 3-4x, filtering to remove sodium carbonate residue, then evaps the iso onto a small amt. of leaf.
The reason for using IPA instead of ETOH is the solubility of sodium carbonate. SWIM has read that sodium carbonate is slightly soluble in ethanol, but not so in anhydrous iso. If you use 91% iso for redissolving the freebase goo, the 9% water will still dissolve some sodium carbonate. However you can use 91% for the "pulling" phase, but ideally you want dry iso for the "cleaning" phase.
To clarify, it goes like this:
1. Acetic salt goo is redissolved in small amount of water and freebased with sodium carbonate. Iso of any grade is then added, it doesn't matter what %age since it's mixing with water anyway. Ethanol -could- be used for this, but elsewhere on this forum someone posted an experiment that showed that ethanol does not separate nearly as efficiently as iso. Even the iso separation is not perfect, the top layer still contains a little water and hence a little sodium carbonate. But it's a much better separation than ethanol would be.
2. Iso is pulled off and evaporated. This leaves behind freebase goo, and a little sodium carbonate from the little bit of water that was in the top iso layer. If one used ethanol, there would be much more sodium carbonate here.
3. Anhydrous iso is then used to redissolve the goo without dissolving the sodium carbonate. If one used 91% iso for this, the 9% water would dissolve sodium carbonate. Also if one used ethanol for this, some sodium carbonate would be dissolved, even if one managed to get pure ethanol (which everclear is NOT). Also pure ethanol is much more expensive than iso, and is usually denatured (= NOT food grade!). Dry iso can easily be created from 91% using NaCl and baked epsom salt. It can also be purchased online for relatively cheap (compared to pure ethanol), from soap making supply places and such.
69ron's Method For Getting Freebase DMT:
8 - Take your sticky DMT acetate, and add about 2 parts calcium hydroxide and a tiny bit of water, just enough to make it wet. Thoroughly mix it. Let it sit for about 5 minutes or so. Evaporate your freebased DMT in a food dehydrator at no hotter than 110 F to get freebase DMT, calcium hydroxide, and calcium acetate.
9 - Dissolve your DMT (it’s about 1 gram at this point) and other calcium junk in about 25 ml of warm d-limonene (no hotter than 110 F). Filter and evaporate your d-limonene in a food dehydrator at no hotter than 110 F to get freebase DMT,
10 - Repeat step 9 until no more DMT is extracted from the calcium mix.
Jorkest's Sodium Carbonate/Ethanol Method For Getting Freebase DMT:
well once you got to the dmt acetate you freebase again with some sodium carbonate and a bit of water
dry that..and then soak it in ethanol...pour of ethanol and evap for smokeable spice..
Time to freebase. Depending on how much DMT fumarate you have been able to get, add two parts sodium carbonate. So, if you got 1g DMT fumarate, you would add 2g sodium carbonate. Then add 2-4ml of water, just enough to get it nice and wet. Stir this for awhile, it will probably bubble a little bit. Make sure any chunks get absorbed, this may take 5-10 minutes. Throw this into the food dehydrator until dry.
Changa Preparation:
Weigh the amount of leaf you wish to enhance with DMT at the desired ratio.
Using leaf that is chopped to the consistency which it will be smoked at makes
life easier later on. Pictured is a mixture containing 4 grams of Calea leaf and 3.5 grams
of Brugmansia Sanguinea flower. Weigh the amount of freebase DMT needed to enhance your leaf
to the desired ratio. Thoroughly dissolve the freebase DMT (use about 40mL of solvent per gram
of DMT) in one of the following: 100% Ethyl Alcohol, Acetone or Isopropyl Alcohol.
You want to use a dish with a width that will allow your leaf to sit between 5-10mm high.
Add the leaf to the DMT saturated solvent and swirl it around so all the leaf is spread evenly on
the bottom of your dish. If you need to, add a little more solvent so that the leaf is well
covered. Place the dish somewhere where it will stay undisturbed for several days. It took
about four days for the Acetone to completely evaporate and the leaf to dry in this example
Once dry, the leaf can be weighed. It should be heavier by the amount of freebase DMT that
it is enhanced with.
69ron – Converting DMT Acetate to DMT Fumerate:
The only salt form of DMT that is not sticky as far as I know is DMT fumarate.
You can easily later convert DMT acetate to DMT fumarate by just dissolving DMT acetate in as little water needed to dissolve it and then add one part more water. Then mix in fumaric acid. Keep adding more fumaric acid while mixing until no more dissolves. Then bring the water to near freezing and most of the excess fumaric acid will sink to the bottom of the water and can be filtered off. Then evaporate the water to get nearly pure DMT fumarate with traces of fumaric acid in it as the only contaminant. There is no need for any toxic solvents.
Extras Bits:
the dlimo extraction, the dmt is salted out of the limonene because limonene dissolves dmt way too good even at low temps, so it cant be freeze precipitated, and it doesnt evap clean, it leaves too much residue.. So the solution people found is to salt it out with fumaric acid solution or just vinegar, and then evap that instead (which will be mostly alkaloids, not much gunk anymore), to leave either solid dmt fumarate or gooey dmt acetate... then, if one wants freebase, make paste with sodium carbonate and mix, let dry, and then pull this stuff with IPA or acetone, and this will pick up the freebase alkaloids and leave the rest behind, filtering the IPA/acetone and evapping it (for example any sodium carbonate contamination will stay behind).