psilocybin
Rising Star
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official extraction help thread
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Psychoactive Haven
Rising Star
Thank you very much for the quick reply!
SWIM made my first two pulls and they're not "milky", shall SWIM let it sit for a while? Or is this not a problem regardless?
SWIM made my first two pulls and they're not "milky", shall SWIM let it sit for a while? Or is this not a problem regardless?
If it's cloudy when you blow on it => stick it in the fridge/freezer
I use a warm-bath (35-45°C) for the pull so the naphta is saturated when it cools down at room temp but not more than 45°C to not get to much "crap"
I use a warm-bath (35-45°C) for the pull so the naphta is saturated when it cools down at room temp but not more than 45°C to not get to much "crap"
just-yb
Rising Star
Du57mi73 said:
thanks alot it worked awesome.
ether was easier tbh eveps quicker, but the naphtha is now freez-part but the naptha still looked pretty brown but more yellow then brown.
what is the easiest way to get the elf-spice out or xyelen? swim's hypothesis bc swim still has tartrate, so i was thinking about dissolving some in acetone then add to the xylene w8 for crystals filter/dry and dissolve in some water and add some naoh (or naoh water solution) and then extract with dcm/chloroform or tolueen may be even thf.
swim doesn't know exactly?? but could use some help
so any suggestions
b.c eveping xylene is just a bitch
TiHKAL
Nullius in verba.
When using the q21 tek #2 with 100g MHRB:
1. Some people recommend having the Acidification step to be 3-4 hours instead of ~40 minutes. Any words of wisdom on this?
2. Can I do the 3-4 pulls within 1-2 hours without any downsides?
3. Can I put the 400ml Naphtha in one pot if I am planning on recrystallising the DMT either way?
4. Should I let the 400ml Napthpa evaporate in room temperature or put it straight into the freezer? (have read different opinions on this one)
5. What's the trick with blowing on the Naphtha? If it goes "dull" there is still DMT in the Naphtha and should be evaped more, correct?
I am aiming for a pure white product with small crystal shards.
Thank you in advance for your help. Preparation is key for me and I want to be as prepared as possible!
1. Some people recommend having the Acidification step to be 3-4 hours instead of ~40 minutes. Any words of wisdom on this?
2. Can I do the 3-4 pulls within 1-2 hours without any downsides?
3. Can I put the 400ml Naphtha in one pot if I am planning on recrystallising the DMT either way?
4. Should I let the 400ml Napthpa evaporate in room temperature or put it straight into the freezer? (have read different opinions on this one)
5. What's the trick with blowing on the Naphtha? If it goes "dull" there is still DMT in the Naphtha and should be evaped more, correct?
I am aiming for a pure white product with small crystal shards.
Thank you in advance for your help. Preparation is key for me and I want to be as prepared as possible!
TiHKAL said:
I actually preferred vodsels approach to the q21 tek. Q21Q21: Vinegar + Lime + Naphtha = Impressive. - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
Pretty straight forward. Usually you want to use 1ml naphtha per 1g bark. Putting 100ml in freezer or letting it evap down a little if you prefer. I personally find it best to do the pulls over a period of a couple weeks. I use two containers and as soon as they are usable I do the next two pulls. Repeat.
If it gets cloudy when you blow on it all that means is that the solvent is saturated with dmt. I actually never experienced this happening. Not sure what you mean by saying there is still dmt in the naphtha and should be evapped more. Why would you need to evap more if there is dmt in your solvent. Once you remove the solvent from the bark you either evap it down a bit and then place it in the freezer or just place it in there.
Du57mi73
Rising Star
just-yb, if you want a salted form then that should should it too. Look in the wiki section of the nexus and youll find out what to do for that. Naptha and xylene evap at about the same rate, no? I never noticed a difference. Jungle spice is grabbed with xylene.
TiHKAL,
1. 3-4 hours will increase your yield.
2. Yes, you will have a lower yield.
3. 400ml in one pot for one? You mean just doing one pull with 400ml? Thats fine, but you aren't going to have very much of it drop out in the freezer. If thats what you want to do, i think youre better off using 200ml, since MAX you are gonna get 2g(more likely youll end up with 1-1.5g) 400 is overkill. 30ml warm naptha per gram, 60ml should be enough, but if youre not heating, then 200ml should be good for a first pull to grab most of it.
4. You should never evaporate your naptha since it can be reused. Why dont use just do a 100ml pull, freeze that, then reuse the 100ml to do your 2-4 pulls. Unless you want crystal clear spice.. Just do 3-4 50ml pulls. If you are using 400ml, you need to evap atleast half of it because 400ml is a huge waste of naptha if youre going to evaporate half of it anyway, just use 200ml, even then that is excessive, especially if youre using heated naptha.
5. The trick with blowing on the naptha is to see if it is saturated. If you blow on the naptha and it starts to get cloudy then you know it is completely packed with spice and cannot grab more.
TiHKAL,
1. 3-4 hours will increase your yield.
2. Yes, you will have a lower yield.
3. 400ml in one pot for one? You mean just doing one pull with 400ml? Thats fine, but you aren't going to have very much of it drop out in the freezer. If thats what you want to do, i think youre better off using 200ml, since MAX you are gonna get 2g(more likely youll end up with 1-1.5g) 400 is overkill. 30ml warm naptha per gram, 60ml should be enough, but if youre not heating, then 200ml should be good for a first pull to grab most of it.
4. You should never evaporate your naptha since it can be reused. Why dont use just do a 100ml pull, freeze that, then reuse the 100ml to do your 2-4 pulls. Unless you want crystal clear spice.. Just do 3-4 50ml pulls. If you are using 400ml, you need to evap atleast half of it because 400ml is a huge waste of naptha if youre going to evaporate half of it anyway, just use 200ml, even then that is excessive, especially if youre using heated naptha.
5. The trick with blowing on the naptha is to see if it is saturated. If you blow on the naptha and it starts to get cloudy then you know it is completely packed with spice and cannot grab more.
just-yb
Rising Star
Du57mi73 said:
nope swim once tried eveping 4L xylene took 2 months
plus the hole environment smelled like a gass station the hole time ( even had a police search thay coulnd find any thing only said someone could better dishwash my pyrex >.< ) and freez doesnt work cant find much about salting out xylene or swim dunno witch criteria to look for
did find this but dint work STB Extraction using xylene then salting out in methanol - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
but did find this Spice Extraction-The FASA Approach - DMT-Nexus Wiki
but swim tried it in the past and the freebasing tek jsut doesnt work well so swim need another for that but swim can probably find it
TiHKAL
Nullius in verba.
anrchy said:
I've read his Tek and liked it but I've read the post from truthone where he mentioned that he prefers to leave out the heat for better results so I might try that one first.
Du57mi73 said:
1. Alright. What would be the recommended time to wait after adding the vinegar and water to the MHRB and stirring it in? I'd like to use as little heat as possible in this step but wouldn't mind waiting. In general, how necessary is it for the Acidification step to have nearly boiling water?
Additional Information: I am using MHRB Powder.
2. Sounds reasonable. I remember ewok and smokerx saying that it had no influence on their yields but I'm going to be patient.
3. My bad I wanted to say that I'll do 4x100ml pulls for 100g MHRB and then mix them together in one containers instead of using four different containers. People said that this is counterproductive as the first pull is almost the cleanest one compared to the fourth but if I am planning on doing a recristallisation afterwards I don't see a problem with mixing it together or am I mistaken?
Additional Information: I am planning to pull with 40° = 100F Napthpha.
4. So if I am using my 4x100ml pulls and end up with ~400ml (probably going to lose a lot of Naphtha) should I still allow it to evaporate to 50% at roomtemperature before putting it in the freezer?
My understanding is that if I'm allowing it to evaporate at room temperature oxides will colour the spice yellowish but if I'm having too much solvent the crystals won't come out in the freezer, correct?
You don't want to combine that volume of pulls. The more solvent you are freeze precipitating the less dmt will crash out. I didn't evap my solvent at all and everything went fine.
Besides if your waiting to do each pull combining them all doesn't make much sense anyways. The longer you wait to do each pull the more you will get.
Besides if your waiting to do each pull combining them all doesn't make much sense anyways. The longer you wait to do each pull the more you will get.
@ TiKHAL
3) I recommend freezing the 100ml pulls separately and then combining the powder after.
4) On your 4 or more pulls(do more if the fourth still is yielding, this is why we freeze separately, so we know when to stop pulling) no need to evaporate beforehand. Just let them freeze for a day or two past what you think is good.
When pulling, heating the naptha is not necessary, it will be cooled off by the basified water anyway. It helps, but meh, just do an extra pull. I rarely use heating(only on the last recrystallize to make super saturated, and even then i just use hot water from tap in a bowl) during my Xtract, i just do the same thing more. broken too many glass jars using heat.
pour the used naptha back into your 'used naptha' container which can be used again for first pulls. Since you are doing recrystallizing, which i agree with, your naptha with you first pulls can be pretty yellow until it stops working.
with recrystallizing you should always use fresh clean naptha. since alot of oil will stay in used naptha.
recrystallize until you are happy with the clarity. and on the last crystallize, dont even freeze, just make a super saturated solution of naptha+powder and let it sit on your counter(1-2 weeks), the clearest crystals form slowly, instead of crashing out in the freezer.
3) I recommend freezing the 100ml pulls separately and then combining the powder after.
4) On your 4 or more pulls(do more if the fourth still is yielding, this is why we freeze separately, so we know when to stop pulling) no need to evaporate beforehand. Just let them freeze for a day or two past what you think is good.
When pulling, heating the naptha is not necessary, it will be cooled off by the basified water anyway. It helps, but meh, just do an extra pull. I rarely use heating(only on the last recrystallize to make super saturated, and even then i just use hot water from tap in a bowl) during my Xtract, i just do the same thing more. broken too many glass jars using heat.
pour the used naptha back into your 'used naptha' container which can be used again for first pulls. Since you are doing recrystallizing, which i agree with, your naptha with you first pulls can be pretty yellow until it stops working.
with recrystallizing you should always use fresh clean naptha. since alot of oil will stay in used naptha.
recrystallize until you are happy with the clarity. and on the last crystallize, dont even freeze, just make a super saturated solution of naptha+powder and let it sit on your counter(1-2 weeks), the clearest crystals form slowly, instead of crashing out in the freezer.
TiHKAL
Nullius in verba.
anrchy said:
Sounds perfect anrchy, thank you! I'll just try doing a 90-100ml pull and it should be fine. Going to keep pulling each day once until I'll have an almost non existant yield.
diox8tony said:
3. This sounds the most logical now and probably what I'll do. Maybe I'll recrystallize my first pull seperated from the 2,3,4,5th because it would be my "pristine" pull but I guess there won't be much difference if I do the reX the right way. I was actually wondering why people were using a pipette to suck out the goo from the shot glass here
Wouldn't it be easier to use the pipette and slowly suck out the clear solution without moving the glass so the goo doesn't start mixing with the solution again? When washing other chemicals I always disturb the mix as little as possible using the pipette to suck out the good solution and put it in a seperate container, then add a bit of solution and repeat the procedure to get the most out of my dirty goo.
4. I was thinking of giving the "bark" container as well as the Naphtha container a warm bath until they are both at 40° and then mixing in the Naphtha just to be sure and on point. Maybe I won't warm it up but since I have an electronical thermometer just for that, I might just as well use it. As for breaking jars, I'll be using beakers so there's no risk of them cracking.
For recrystallizing I am going to use heptane so it'll be clean and should hopefully produce the crystals I am hoping for but then again I'm going to smash them up either way at some point so I might just put the petridish in the freezer.
One last question (for now
) when I am going to let the "mush" sit after the first pull for 24 hours it will dry out. Should I add water to the mush until it gets to the consistency of cookie dough again or should I just add 100ml naptha (the 50-60ml or whatever I have left from my first pull and 40-50ml fresh naptha) to the mush and do the pull?I'm excited for my first extraction and will make a live thread with a pictorial so you guys have something amusing to read.
decibel
Rising Star
Thank you for clarifying this issue for me Sarek It was very helpful!
I will evap what's left of naphta in my jar and hope it contains some goodies
New question. I'm preparing for my second extraction. This time with powdered MHRB instead of shredded. Will this need to boil as long as shredded MHRB?
It was very helpful!I will evap what's left of naphta in my jar and hope it contains some goodies
New question. I'm preparing for my second extraction. This time with powdered MHRB instead of shredded. Will this need to boil as long as shredded MHRB?
palomita
Rising Star
Hey dear DMT-nexians, I'm coming to you because I'm really perplexed about my DMT extracton using the citric acid/naphta tek.
I did everything like it was supposed to be done except when I was supposed to wait, I then waited longer than recomended to be sure that the maximum amount of DMT got into the solvent.
My problem is that one week after adding FASA, there is still no crystal formed. There is also like a dark brown sticky and very thin layer at the bottom of the container. :surprised
In my opinion this may be due to the acetone, that may contain water even after drying.
Would you have an idea of what to do ?
I did everything like it was supposed to be done except when I was supposed to wait, I then waited longer than recomended to be sure that the maximum amount of DMT got into the solvent.
My problem is that one week after adding FASA, there is still no crystal formed. There is also like a dark brown sticky and very thin layer at the bottom of the container. :surprised
In my opinion this may be due to the acetone, that may contain water even after drying.
Would you have an idea of what to do ?
DreaMTripper
Rising Star
FASA doesnt work with naptha, I suggest separating the layers put the precipitate back in the base mix and pull again. Separate the naptha wash vigorously and repeatedly with FASW, separate naptha then evaporate the FASW liquid then convert to freebase if required, or remove excess fumaric acid , see BLAB tek for conversion and clean-up teks.
sarek
The world is hollow and I have touched the sky
Lucidity,
More info would be appreciated. What plant material, what procedure was used, what amount of solvent was used, etc.
Nobody here is going to be able to tell you what went wrong from one picture like that. If I had to guess though, I would say that your layers didn't separate properly, but maybe they did and the NPS is still dark. Like I said, it's impossible to know what's happening from that one picture. Fortunately, both of those potential issues are touched upon in the FAQ (it's a wonderful resource):
Also,
More info would be appreciated. What plant material, what procedure was used, what amount of solvent was used, etc.
Nobody here is going to be able to tell you what went wrong from one picture like that. If I had to guess though, I would say that your layers didn't separate properly, but maybe they did and the NPS is still dark. Like I said, it's impossible to know what's happening from that one picture. Fortunately, both of those potential issues are touched upon in the FAQ (it's a wonderful resource):
Also,
