psilocybin
Rising Star
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official extraction help thread
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Noxulifer
Rising Star
pete666 said:
I just poured off the acetone into another glass container to let it sit a couple of days more. In the original container I now got a lot of clear crystals :thumb_up:
Looks very appetizing
I will try it tomorrow! I'll let you know the results!
I brought it up because I have had little success freeze precipitating from a non polar solvent and if I am to pull dmt freebase from my dmt freebase solution I want to know why I failed to freeze precip so I can successfully precip when I pull from the water solution. I froze for 7 hours and only got a fine dust in the plant fats in the bottom of the solution. If I simply freeze for 48 hours would I have better luck crystallizing my freebase? My water is saturated with sodium carbonate. after drying and pulling 3 times I was able to pull no freebase. Even after sprinkling a little lye in. Thanks for your help.
pete666
Established member
When precipitating from np, it has to be properly saturated. If it is not precipitating after freezing, then very likely there is not enough alkaloids compared to the np volume. You can evaporate half of the np and try again.
If you had dirty freebase and converted to fumarate, then converting it back to freebase with sodium carbonate is mini A/B, which is usualy used for purification, so the result should be cleaner than the source.
If you have clean heptane or naptha, you can do hot pull from the water/sodium carbonate solution. If you know how much dmt fumarate was at the input, then for each 1,3g of dmt fumarate use about 20ml of clean heptane/naptha. Everything can be heated to about 70C (water bath) and mixed shorly. The water will probably get less cloudy, maybe will be clear. The np layer will be colored. Then pour off the np to another beaker and let cool down to room temperature. Then place in a fridge for few hours. Then in a freezer for 12 hours.
If you want cleaner product, do not pour off when hot, but wait till the np is less colored. You can wait till room temperature, when it is likely to be almost clear. There still be quite a lot goodies in there for freeze-precip.
Do more pulls, with less np to get everything out of the water.
If you had dirty freebase and converted to fumarate, then converting it back to freebase with sodium carbonate is mini A/B, which is usualy used for purification, so the result should be cleaner than the source.
If you have clean heptane or naptha, you can do hot pull from the water/sodium carbonate solution. If you know how much dmt fumarate was at the input, then for each 1,3g of dmt fumarate use about 20ml of clean heptane/naptha. Everything can be heated to about 70C (water bath) and mixed shorly. The water will probably get less cloudy, maybe will be clear. The np layer will be colored. Then pour off the np to another beaker and let cool down to room temperature. Then place in a fridge for few hours. Then in a freezer for 12 hours.
If you want cleaner product, do not pour off when hot, but wait till the np is less colored. You can wait till room temperature, when it is likely to be almost clear. There still be quite a lot goodies in there for freeze-precip.
Do more pulls, with less np to get everything out of the water.
Smeed
Rising Star
Hey, everyone, quick question, here.
During the freeze precipitation step, is any cloudiness that is seen in the naphtha solute from the root used (per Q2121, Tek 2)?
After 18+ hours, there is certainly sediment, and very few crystals are floating around, but there are a couple spots of "cloudiness" (for lack of a better term) floating around the naphtha. I always save my solvent, but I'm just curious if waiting any longer would lead to "the clouds" settling, resulting in a bigger yield?
During the freeze precipitation step, is any cloudiness that is seen in the naphtha solute from the root used (per Q2121, Tek 2)?
After 18+ hours, there is certainly sediment, and very few crystals are floating around, but there are a couple spots of "cloudiness" (for lack of a better term) floating around the naphtha. I always save my solvent, but I'm just curious if waiting any longer would lead to "the clouds" settling, resulting in a bigger yield?
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Reasons for freeze precip not working:observe said:
*Naphtha not saturated with alkaloid;
*Freezer not cold enough;
*Solvent contains too much aromatic compounds (toluene, xylene etc.),
*and/or other organic solvents present (acetone, IPA, ethanol).
ridnovir
Rising Star
My first extraction was Q21 tek 1 I converted fumarate to freebase via saturated sodium carbonate solution after a week in fridge I decanted the water and observed nice crystals so I left it for about 2 days to dry when I looked at it again there were no crystals just a hard glassy film which scraped into waxy powder. Is it normal? Of note it was over 85 F and my kitchen was pretty hot when I picked up class container with freebase it was noticeably worm. So I am curious did my crystals melt or thait is how freebase dries?
magic mike
Rising Star
I've done about 5 pulls on 30g of mhrb with Q2121's tek 2 and I have what's left over sitting in a small Nutella jar for about a month and a half. It still smells of dmt. I faintly remember reading something about using the leftovers from this particular tek for making enhanced leaf with vinegar or acetone or something similar, but I can't find anything about it. Am I misremembering and should I just throw it out, or does anyone know what I'm talking about?
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Pull again with a bit of warm naphtha, or maybe some toluene, and you may be pleasantly surprised...magic mike said:
Questions: Ive searched for this but cant find a specific answer. Hopefully someone with better chem knowledge could help.
Swim followed Q2121's tek (2 seperate 50mg batches), but after basifying he made the mistake of shaking too vigorously creating a black sludge emulsion. So he came here and found that salt can help aid seperation, but he didnt have the kind everyone referenced..
He did have calcium chloride. Matched the ratio of bark & lime and still no progress... read that someone had success with the F-it-alls so he dumped the rest of the small pickling salt jar from wally mart in the batch and all of a sudden the entire batch formed the consistency of wet cement and kicked out all the naptha within seconds. He pulled it and it was clear as could be and glistening crystals once precipiated. 2 previous batches (A/B using Lie/Naptha, and Q21's but no accidental emulsification using lime/naptha) never looked this clean so he was skeptical this was legit after not seeing this calcium chloride specific method documented before.
Question 1: Is there any residuals from the Calcium Chloride in the crystals that swim should worry about?
Question 2: he had another batch running at the same time, exactly same process, with the same problem, ran out at got a big box of mortons salt(no iodine) (used up all the calcium chloride) and had HORRIBLE yields and pulls and lack luster seperation even after the F-it-alls... Has the use of Calcium Chloride been thought of as one step in a timesaving tek before?
The emultion became so cement like he didnt need to "pull" with a turkey baster, he just poured crystal clear naptha right out the bottle with no particles following it leading to excellent results.
Swim followed Q2121's tek (2 seperate 50mg batches), but after basifying he made the mistake of shaking too vigorously creating a black sludge emulsion. So he came here and found that salt can help aid seperation, but he didnt have the kind everyone referenced..
He did have calcium chloride. Matched the ratio of bark & lime and still no progress... read that someone had success with the F-it-alls so he dumped the rest of the small pickling salt jar from wally mart in the batch and all of a sudden the entire batch formed the consistency of wet cement and kicked out all the naptha within seconds. He pulled it and it was clear as could be and glistening crystals once precipiated. 2 previous batches (A/B using Lie/Naptha, and Q21's but no accidental emulsification using lime/naptha) never looked this clean so he was skeptical this was legit after not seeing this calcium chloride specific method documented before.
Question 1: Is there any residuals from the Calcium Chloride in the crystals that swim should worry about?
Question 2: he had another batch running at the same time, exactly same process, with the same problem, ran out at got a big box of mortons salt(no iodine) (used up all the calcium chloride) and had HORRIBLE yields and pulls and lack luster seperation even after the F-it-alls... Has the use of Calcium Chloride been thought of as one step in a timesaving tek before?
The emultion became so cement like he didnt need to "pull" with a turkey baster, he just poured crystal clear naptha right out the bottle with no particles following it leading to excellent results.
I'm new to this page and need some help like badly. My name is Jay and I recently made 2 batches or at least tried to make till now they are in the freezer one with bark, lye, lamp oil, yellownaphtha I did a bunch of extractions during the day today and extracted one mix with no yellow naphtha just lamp oil and another with it need serious help if possible will upload pics I'm just new to this page.can anyone tell me how my results should look Thank you
