psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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you pretty much just add acid to freebase goo until it has all dissolved, it wont take much. granted it might not react instantly, and the goo will contain sap, oils and fats that wont react at all. unlike extracting the dmt out of organic matter, the mini AB doesnt require a hundredfold excess. it works close to stoichiometrically, depending on how much insoluble goo you have. so for grams of spice you are looking at an order of grams of acid and base too.
Thanks drpotato! I've got a glass dish with about 1g crystals and a fair amount of red goo. I'm planning on pouring some hot naptha in there, dissolve the crystals and try to leave the goo behind > then pipette the naptha into an acid solution > then pour the acid solution into a base solution and add more naptha > pipette off the naptha and freeze...
Been drinking again?
If it's stainless steel, it should be fine - except that stitching might not be.
this is DMT question.. so I was attempting an extraction on very little info.(before I found this site) But because of lack of knowledge and resources I used ULTRA PURE LAMP OIL (PARRAFIN). for solvent and when i put in freezer the oil freezes. and i don't see any crystals. rewind i started by puttimng 500g of mimosa hostilis in 600ml of water with 1/2 cup vinigar and mixed and let sit for a few days stirring occationally, never taking PH reading ( first blunder) then strained it through cheese cloth and , took that liquid and added water with lye that was ph 12.2. added to other and stirred slowly.
(blunder #8?) then added solvent and mixed slowly. for 1 day. then sperated and put solventy in cake pan . covered and put in very cold freezer.. like -12C. and oil froze. Question is ,,,,is it worth trying to save?? or after reading alot of Tecs in here and going with a simple proven tec and getting all the right parts . just call it a learning experiance and move on... maybe learn to spell... ha ha
Yes, absolutely - you can recover the DMT with some washes of diluted distilled vinegar, or another pure acidic solution, like citric or fumaric. You'll then have a solution of the corresponding DMT salt. You can either evaporate off the water to collect a solid mass of salt, or add more lye solution and pull again with a more suitable solvent.
Evaporation is best with a volatile acid like acetic (found in vinegar), since any excess acid does eventually evaporate. Solid acids like fumaric and citric will remain present in the crystallised residue when present in excess.
There's another class of options known as FASA/FASI that I could explain if you have access to the appropriate materials (fumaric acid and either acetone or isopropanol).
What other solvents and acids can you get hold of? And how do you plan to use your product once you've isolated it? The answers to these two questions will guide the best course of action from where you currently are.
hyperportal
Rising Star
using q121q1 tek, after i did a pull, several hours later, liquid has gathered in the remaining bark, it is brownish water and naptha, how can i seperate? seems like a lot of dmt in this bit,
I have now got hydrochloric acid and VM&P Naphtha for solvent. Red devil Lye. distilled water i also bought a 500 ml Separatory funnel, 500 ml Buchner funnel and pump. 3- 500 ml flasks, and a 2000 ml flask. i have digital ph meter, ,glass turkey baster, glass casserole dish. i also have mini freezer that gets -20 C. Plus 500 gram of MHRB. [[mod edit - no sourcing talk!]] I am ready to start over. i'm going to use Vovin tec.
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If you're not entirely sure what you're doing, stick to a 100g extraction first. That way, you'll avoid ruining 50og of precious bark all at once…
→do you mean q21q21? There are several methods with the q21q21 tag attached to them, so you're going to have to be far more specific about what you've done and observed.
If you're looking at liquid separating from a solid mass, you can wour it of and separate the naphtha from the water with one of the usual methods.
Should you happen to be feeling more daring, you could attempt to soak up the water with careful addition of some dry lime. There's a risp that might soak up the naphtha as well, however.
ok, I'm going to run 100g batch and see if I can make it work, I feel that I have a much better understanding of the process after reading alot of forums here. sorry about sourcing talk. [MOD EDIT: NOPE! WE REALLY DO MEAN IT - NO SOURCING QUESTIONS!] hope that doesn't get me in trouble...again...lol I will run Tec and report back with My results... Thanks to the collective...
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fractals4life
Titanium Teammate
As you've invested in lab glassware like the seperatory funnel, buchner and flasks, why not treat yourself to a proper pipette or two, they are so much better to handle than turky basters which have little fine control and dribble a lot. I've never looked back! Add a pipette pump for extra luxury and precision in sucking up that last fine layer of NPS, money well spent, IMHO.
Here's a final reminder to read and comprehend this:
AND THIS:
From the very top:
Important! Thread 'Enforcement of sourcing talk'
so, i went through a mini a/b to wash up my crystals (MHRB) (following an extraction using Cyb's hybrid atb salt tek) from a pretty massive red goo infestation. This appears to have been about 99% successful, which is encouraging. But, I need to account for that 1% of red discoloration that is still discernible. I will do another mini a/b if necessary but what is the recommended course of action here for a simpler cleanup? I think i need more than a re-x and less than a mini a/b...I've seen there are some sodium carbonate washes, activated charcoal, etc. Thoughts?
EDITED: No need to respond. I'm answering my own question by doing a sodium carbonate wash as described in the FAQ. I'm reasonably certain that will get me to 100%, the entire process being a mini a/b to a sodium carbonate wash (for those who also, accidentally, conjured the red goo).
EDITED: No need to respond. I'm answering my own question by doing a sodium carbonate wash as described in the FAQ. I'm reasonably certain that will get me to 100%, the entire process being a mini a/b to a sodium carbonate wash (for those who also, accidentally, conjured the red goo).
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i had observable results spraying dry IPA, barely a ml or 2 each time, onto a dish i used to dry my goo, so it was uniformly coated since it didnt crystalize.
i did that about 7 times and got 7 fractions since cold IPA is extremely ineffective at dissolving goo, so its able to leech it out. this is the exact opposite of the precipitation process, its more like chromatography, though chromatography is also an option too you know. the DMT and goo will be totally different compounds that seperate very readily even on paper, you just need the right kind of paper or other medium. i have had someone show me that this is actually really easily done if you have some nice thick paper. i cant help with the source or other details though as i dont really recall much more.
each fraction hit completely differently and the middle most one did form some crystals in the oil, but then i still had non-goo oil to contend with XD
activated charcoal i feel like, is something you use if you just have discolored oil. by the way have you considered FASA/FASI?
i did that about 7 times and got 7 fractions since cold IPA is extremely ineffective at dissolving goo, so its able to leech it out. this is the exact opposite of the precipitation process, its more like chromatography, though chromatography is also an option too you know. the DMT and goo will be totally different compounds that seperate very readily even on paper, you just need the right kind of paper or other medium. i have had someone show me that this is actually really easily done if you have some nice thick paper. i cant help with the source or other details though as i dont really recall much more.
each fraction hit completely differently and the middle most one did form some crystals in the oil, but then i still had non-goo oil to contend with XD
activated charcoal i feel like, is something you use if you just have discolored oil. by the way have you considered FASA/FASI?
fumaric acid and other similar methods that use an acid saturated solvent to cause all the DMT to instantly crash out as the insoluble salt, are all pretty much a mini AB with the benefit of two stages of crystalization, because your DMT fumarate will form nice pure crystals, that you can then collect, while things like goo's even if they form a salt as well its not going to be attached to the structure, assuming they even form a solid its probably just going to be a layer of silt, meanwhile the fumarate keeps growing thicker and crunchier.
your non polar is also pretty much infinitely reusable too since effectively everything came from a base-extract, meaning everything that is soluble in NP solvent, is things that were became soluble when they got freebased, so if acidified they will migrate back to the aqueous phase, rendering your NP solvent absolutely pure.
once you filter/decant your crystals out, and everything is accounted for, add water and the acetone/IPA gets pulled out of, lets say, your toluene. seperate and discard the aqueous layer, or distill, whatevs, but, after drying the toluene out with some kind of drying agent, like sodium sulfate to clump up all the water down to like 500ppm, then add some silica gel, molecular sieve (3A only), or magnesium sulfate and store it over that until needed. its important that your solvents be anhydrous. acetone is a bit complicated to dry, which is why all my future endeavours are going to be with IPA since you can make that bone dry and it wont change into some other chemical and produce water when it does it, which acetone does.
By the way, washing solubles out away from toluene/xylene/misc NP is a really simple way to get relatively pure NP from basic paint thinner formulations without distillation. i got a tin of thinners the other day that was just 30% acetone 70% toluene and nothing else. I intend to distill it but, if i really needed toluene ASAP i could just add water until the acetone seperates out.
before you turn the fumarate into freebase DMT, keep in mind fumarate is WAY more stable than DMT, refrigerated it basically lasts forever. its perhaps the 2nd or 3rd most ideal form for long term storage, and it can be smoked as is too i believe.
Lastly, there was something i wanted to try, which is turning some fumaric acid into its anhydride, and then using that to keep the IPA dry, but also, do a long term storage with acetone and see if that causes self condensation to occur, the anhydride will destroy any water that forms though, and if acetone is stable around the anhydride, and acid, it might prove to be the ideal way to store FASA. for FASI, its not hard to dry but, that would still be really convenenient.
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forum.dmt-nexus.me
So this is the next advancement in D-Limonene extraction teks. It was thought of for the Nexus by usweyoume. This tek is designed to use LITTLE space with lots of bark for HIGH yields. Nothing really more to say except this Tek was written while on the final material, pharma style
~~~ONTO THE TEK~~~
Materials
-Gallon Milk Jug(HDPE #2 plastic)
-Two 800ml(as close as you can) glass jar
-One 100ml(also as close as you can get) glass jar
-250g Sodium Hydroxide
-About 5g of Fumaric Acid(probably way more than enough but whatever)
-1 liter of 5% vinegar
-450g(one pound) of...
~~~ONTO THE TEK~~~Materials
-Gallon Milk Jug(HDPE #2 plastic)
-Two 800ml(as close as you can) glass jar
-One 100ml(also as close as you can get) glass jar
-250g Sodium Hydroxide
-About 5g of Fumaric Acid(probably way more than enough but whatever)
-1 liter of 5% vinegar
-450g(one pound) of...
