• Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).

official extraction help thread

Migrated topic.
The acetone dried w/ dehydrated mag sulfate (filtered to catch the sulfate)
Water free fumaricacid 99,5% (food grade)
~ 50mg fb DMT crystals
~ 50mg fumaricacid

* Did dissolve the acid in a ~10ml acetone and the FB crystals in ~1ml acetone
* pipette dripping the acidic acetone into the basic solution

* Problem occured due my highly functional planing skills, was adding 10ml to the 1ml in a 5ml Glas :D

* was forced to pour all over to the bigger glass :(
* anyways the crystals dropped out when I first checked within 30-45 minutes? Didn't watch the time

End product is a bit more then 58mg, had some loss left in Glas.


Is there a difference in dropping the acidic solution into the basic solution and vise versa?
Or any improvement suggestions for the working steps?
 
Is there a difference in dropping the acidic solution into the basic solution and vise versa?
Or any improvement suggestions for the working steps?
Dropping base into acid may here (maybe) result in smaller crystals (according to my in-brain simulation) because of the concentration differences but I could be entirely wrong either by having that backwards or by it turning out to be largely irrelevant. You could dilute the DMT solution to see if that helps with forming larger crystals.

My own FASA work was so long ago I've forgotten how it looked - and anyhow, I was developing a trick for doing FASA straight from naphtha (spike the naphtha with acetone to prevent FA from crashing out). [Or was it limonene?]

I think you've already identified the main improvement - start with a large enough beaker!
 
Thanks for the new tek, now all I got to do is sort through several hundred teks..
I'm just starting another salt extraction to celebrate my 50th birthday. I'm not intellectually gifted, so I've always stuck with the salt extraction method. I'm making it next week. If anyone knows of another easy way with a good yield, it would be great to know. ✌
 
Following is my latest recrystallized product.

My guess is that the yellow ->coating<- (probably polymered DMT) is result by using the petroleum 100/140 naphtha.
My hope was after the precipitating with ~40/60 naphtha I could get rid of this yellow coating.

The yellow is a bit darker or orange alike in RL then fotos show....
If I recrystallized with the 100/140 the yellow is pure dark orange and not just a coating, it is part of the crystals...?

Btw this Foto recrystallized product is recrystallized by using 40/60 naphtha.

Any opinions on the yellow/orange occurrence?
Just polymered, or maybe something else?
Any idea on why this is happening by the 100/140 naphtha?

When I did all steps with the 40/60 naphtha I had pure white product!
But the 100/140 is a big advantage in the work process! No need to hurry, when working with 40°C soup cause of evaporatibg nps.... And such...Photo_2026-05-28 22_11_13_027.JPG
Photo_2026-05-28 22_11_27_134.JPGPhoto_2026-05-28 22_11_50_140.JPG
 
End product is a bit more then 58mg, had some loss left in Glas.


Is there a difference in dropping the acidic solution into the basic solution and vise versa?
Or any improvement suggestions for the working steps?
dont weigh your fumaric acid, just make FASA like you make brine, by adding excess acid. if you make a mistake, im pretty sure the surplus acid will clump up and hold onto that moisture.
also, store your dry fumaric acid with silica gel, magnesium sulfate, or ideally, anhydrous calcium chloride. actually sodium hydroxide would be even more potent but if it deliquesces its going to trash the container you use. two thimbles, one with a dessicant, the other your material, in a sealed jar works, but you can make satchels for dry-dessicants just by folding paper into little satchels.

also try drying the acid with warm air too, its mildly hygroscopic iirc.
not saying your FA was wet, but, it was not not wet if it didnt come in a glass jar with dessicant inside.

idk what the actual purpose of having it be saturated is, more acid is better, and with acetone, less is better here, dmt fumarate may be mildly soluble in acetone, so saturating it ensures everything crashes out. that might be all there is to it, keeping acetone use to a minimum for whatever reason.

as for the yellowing, theres 2 things:
1: DMT is never the only triptamine, and FASA is not going to distinguish between them much. other spices are known to have fancy colors.
2: DMT has polymorphs, under certain conditions it will form crystals that look and behave differently without it being a polymer. these can be attributed to the presence of certain compounds, even just your solvent choice can have an influence.


lastly, you could try a hydro-thermal crystal growing method on the DMT fumarate, use a measuring cylinder as your reaction vessel, something decently tall. having the crystals form where, the top is moderately cooler than the bottom, which you can accomplish with extremely mild heating, like 5 degree differential over a foot, insulation may be required. this causes very large mono-crystals to form, its how people grow those massive clear copper sulfate crystals.
otherwise thermal cycling works, which is just deliberately heating and cooling, or, just heating until you notice some change, then turning off, for however long it takes to hit room temp, and loop that, it makes things also form nice thick crystals, while also helping things with less affinity for a solid state, stay in solution or out of your crystal matrixes, this method is employed for rendering some ultrafine precipitates, filterable, since cycling ultimately targets the smallest particles, so everything is big, and becomes much easier to filter and less likely to clog filter paper. I think i applied that strategy once to vacuum filter tannins more easily from my soup.
 
Hi, tY for the reply.

I forgot to mention that the yellow recrystallized is n,n, dmt. It is not 100% dry/evaporated on the pic, but it will end with yellow tips. Will add a photo later.


To not weigh the fumarate acid is probably what makes most sense! Imo
Ordered my FA dehydrated by a chem supplier ;)

Imo working with best possible source material especially on the chemicals side is important. Money saved in the wrong spot if not I'd say.
At least as long it is not regulated chem.
Found a supplier which offers different grades therefore different prices and amount.
Starting with 500mg(fumaric acid) for example.
 
Back
Top Bottom