psilocybin
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official extraction help thread
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This is so helpful! Thank you! I am trying to find the Max Ion Tek but it looks like it's locked? What do you think of the Hybrid ATB Salt Tek? Is it similar?1. I am not sure it matters. Mine is from Mexico if I am not mistaken. 1.5%-2% yield.
2. Wash is often a rinse, a purification gets rid of plant fats and trace alkaloids, re-x can do some of what a purification would do, and is often used to clean up DMT, but it also used to play with making bigger crystals. They are all ways of "cleaning" your DMT. And yes.
3. A method to remove plant fats from DMT, DMT saturated solvent, or dirty solvent. You usually don't use any plant matter.
4. 18-24 hours. Longer wait is more time for the molecules to bind into crystals, "crashing out."
5. Yield is usually more about execution of a given method and bark content. It's the bark that's potent. The molecule is the molecule, it's potency is constant. I use Max Ion.
It just sounds like you have more pulls to do. Happy extracting.
One love
sparkly! woooohooo!
Hello
Just finished my first Max Ion tek and anxiously awaiting the results. Here are some new questions that I encountered during the process:
How can I tell when I have exhausted the MHRB? How do I know when to stop doing pulls?
Will a microwave change the properties of any of the chemicals, such as deionized water of naptha?
What sort of consistency should I expect with an ATB tek after the acidification stage? I read that it should be 1 part vinegar for 3 parts water. Is this correct?
If my mix registers a ph of 14 during basification, is it okay to add water to bring it back down to 12?
What is a reasonable amount of Naptha to use with a mix that measures around 1500ml?
I noticed that some teks call for hours of time between pulls, and some say you can do them back to back. What is the benefit of waiting between pulls, after the naptha/mix has been agitated? what happens if I just pull the naptha as soon as it separates to the top each time?
Has anyone swapped out the vinegar for phosphoric acid during acidification stage? If so, was it worth it?
DO NOT MICROWAVE NAPHTHA!!Hello
Just finished my first Max Ion tek and anxiously awaiting the results. Here are some new questions that I encountered during the process:
How can I tell when I have exhausted the MHRB? How do I know when to stop doing pulls?
Will a microwave change the properties of any of the chemicals, such as deionized water of naptha?
What sort of consistency should I expect with an ATB tek after the acidification stage? I read that it should be 1 part vinegar for 3 parts water. Is this correct?
If my mix registers a ph of 14 during basification, is it okay to add water to bring it back down to 12?
What is a reasonable amount of Naptha to use with a mix that measures around 1500ml?
I noticed that some teks call for hours of time between pulls, and some say you can do them back to back. What is the benefit of waiting between pulls, after the naptha/mix has been agitated? what happens if I just pull the naptha as soon as it separates to the top each time?
Has anyone swapped out the vinegar for phosphoric acid during acidification stage? If so, was it worth it?
Will come back when I more time to answer the rest but please never microwave naphtha.
Hello!Hello
Great choice
You should have most everything after five pulls. To be sure, you can do a sixth but freeze precip it separately. If your sixth pull weighs less than 10% of your first 5 pulls combined, you've pretty much exhausted it
Yes, but not in a good way.
Never ever ever ever ever ever ever ...
Microwave naphtha.
iirc there are microwave teks out there but they only ever microwave the water.
Thats excessive for the vinegar. Also, acid isnt really needed for mhrb, it's only required if you need to defat your material
I dont think that will work. At least not at any reasonable volume
It's less about the mix volume and more about the vessel diameter imo. but aim for 30 to 50 ml per pull.
Waiting for your naphtha to settle should only take 5 to 10 min with max ion and appropriate mixing technique. you can then pull immediately. its a good practice to do 3 pulls pretty much immediately after the initial base soak then wait 8 to 24 hrs to do the remaining pulls. the delay allows time for the base to free up more target alkaloid from the bark, increasing the yield of your final pulls
I imagine someone has. try the search function
Good luck!
use a hot water bath. microwaving naptha is bad. the microwaves could randomly ionize it, which, in the gas phase means plasma, which means explosion.
in leu of real chemistry equipment like a condenser, try improvising a cold trap using a sock/towel and a chunk of ice. cold wet fabric also resists naptha vapors a good deal without building pressure in a way that causes it to buildup, it just adds harmless resistance. though be mindful this also gives naptha a way to condense and dribble down outside the vessel.
also, naptha is hexane and heptane generally, or isomers that may as well be the same, and in low quality stuff, some higher chain length stuff too. hexane boils at a lower temp than heptane. the longer your naptha boils, the greater the heptane to hexane ratio becomes, and consequently, the less DMT can be dissolved in your naptha you can have, it wont really release that dmt back into the water but it will stop solvating it effectively, slowling the rate it draws it in. it can be disadvantageous to let it go so long the volume changes appreciably. if you find you dont get results if you arent at the boiling point of your naptha, keep this in mind that theres little benefit to the massive brain cell death caused by hexane fumes from boiling naptha.
Also, i have used phosphoric acid. it is not great. theres a dozen salt complexes it gives, it makes the viscosity of the fluid thicker, and salts like trisodium phosphate have chelative effects, causing transient solids to form as it encounters trace metal or calcium. to reach total acidification requires possibly more than 1 mol of phosphoric acid because equillibriums may establish between minerals, the dmt, and acid, resulting in things like poly-anion-phosphates, like, a 1-dmt-1-phosphate might be acidic enough that 2 DMTs could share a phosphate, or 1 dmt could take 2 phosphates while freebase is still there, your ph will be all over the place and an acidic solution might still hold freebase because the poor solubility/emulsion problems it gives allow for chaos. fumaric acid does something similar, as does citric. ultimately you might need everything to hold the maximum number of phosphate ions before you can trust the water solubility to be ionizing dmt sufficiently that it can migrate out of the resinous goo soaked in the bark particles it exists in.
use hydrochloric or acetic acid. your chosen acid should have the highest possible water solubility. acetic acid excluded, avoid carboxylic acids.
phosphoric acid by the way is benign at room temp but it can attack silica (glass, soda glass so bad it might crack it) when heated, and stainless steel components too. basic phosphate is "soapy".
sulfuric acid would be good but you have a mix of realy soluble and insoluble things, i wouldnt touch a sulfate-soup that wasnt VERY thoroughly filtered down to a nice clear tea, nor would i dare try concentrating it further.
you can use HCl if you go to a brew shop and buy a huge connical flask, they cost like $20/L of capacity. alternatively do what i do, go to a camping shop and buy a billy, which, is, an enamel coated pot. provided it never gets chipped, the enamel will happily tolerate very dilute hydrochloric acid, or any acid, even phosphoric for a while. also means you can use any acetic acid concentration you want at any amount of heat without leeching stainless metals like chrome into the soup. its great for when you want to go out camping in an acacia forest, and make some fresh acacia soup
you can spot problematic acids by how foamy they will let your soup become, if you want to try random stuff. if it lets it get all foamy its not lowering the surface tension much, and isnt penetrating cells well, besides also leaving lipids and fats in tact to form emulsions and protective capsules.
lastly, one reason to wait between pulls is that no amount of intimate stirring and shaking is going to coalesque the ultra fine droplets of dmt in naptha, besides time and heat. also, the dmt is slowed by having to pass through solids. or particulates. depending on the kind of tek you went with. with direct extraction of basic bark soup, imagine that the naptha only strips the outer layer of the bark, it needs time to wick up more dmt to the surface.
for a clean filtered soup, big droplets simply will not collide with small ones.
but you can tell wether or not its neccesary based on, how long does it take for a rainbow oily layer to form after all the naptha evaporated off the soup. if you already filtered it all and you havent got a slurry, you can probably just go back to back though, then when you finish add a splash of xylene or some water-washed paint thinner toluene (water removes the ethanol and acetone), let that sit for a few days, extract later and see what boiling naptha can pull out of that, unlike naptha, toluene is actually a strong solvent.
in leu of real chemistry equipment like a condenser, try improvising a cold trap using a sock/towel and a chunk of ice. cold wet fabric also resists naptha vapors a good deal without building pressure in a way that causes it to buildup, it just adds harmless resistance. though be mindful this also gives naptha a way to condense and dribble down outside the vessel.
also, naptha is hexane and heptane generally, or isomers that may as well be the same, and in low quality stuff, some higher chain length stuff too. hexane boils at a lower temp than heptane. the longer your naptha boils, the greater the heptane to hexane ratio becomes, and consequently, the less DMT can be dissolved in your naptha you can have, it wont really release that dmt back into the water but it will stop solvating it effectively, slowling the rate it draws it in. it can be disadvantageous to let it go so long the volume changes appreciably. if you find you dont get results if you arent at the boiling point of your naptha, keep this in mind that theres little benefit to the massive brain cell death caused by hexane fumes from boiling naptha.
Also, i have used phosphoric acid. it is not great. theres a dozen salt complexes it gives, it makes the viscosity of the fluid thicker, and salts like trisodium phosphate have chelative effects, causing transient solids to form as it encounters trace metal or calcium. to reach total acidification requires possibly more than 1 mol of phosphoric acid because equillibriums may establish between minerals, the dmt, and acid, resulting in things like poly-anion-phosphates, like, a 1-dmt-1-phosphate might be acidic enough that 2 DMTs could share a phosphate, or 1 dmt could take 2 phosphates while freebase is still there, your ph will be all over the place and an acidic solution might still hold freebase because the poor solubility/emulsion problems it gives allow for chaos. fumaric acid does something similar, as does citric. ultimately you might need everything to hold the maximum number of phosphate ions before you can trust the water solubility to be ionizing dmt sufficiently that it can migrate out of the resinous goo soaked in the bark particles it exists in.
use hydrochloric or acetic acid. your chosen acid should have the highest possible water solubility. acetic acid excluded, avoid carboxylic acids.
phosphoric acid by the way is benign at room temp but it can attack silica (glass, soda glass so bad it might crack it) when heated, and stainless steel components too. basic phosphate is "soapy".
sulfuric acid would be good but you have a mix of realy soluble and insoluble things, i wouldnt touch a sulfate-soup that wasnt VERY thoroughly filtered down to a nice clear tea, nor would i dare try concentrating it further.
you can use HCl if you go to a brew shop and buy a huge connical flask, they cost like $20/L of capacity. alternatively do what i do, go to a camping shop and buy a billy, which, is, an enamel coated pot. provided it never gets chipped, the enamel will happily tolerate very dilute hydrochloric acid, or any acid, even phosphoric for a while. also means you can use any acetic acid concentration you want at any amount of heat without leeching stainless metals like chrome into the soup. its great for when you want to go out camping in an acacia forest, and make some fresh acacia soup
you can spot problematic acids by how foamy they will let your soup become, if you want to try random stuff. if it lets it get all foamy its not lowering the surface tension much, and isnt penetrating cells well, besides also leaving lipids and fats in tact to form emulsions and protective capsules.
lastly, one reason to wait between pulls is that no amount of intimate stirring and shaking is going to coalesque the ultra fine droplets of dmt in naptha, besides time and heat. also, the dmt is slowed by having to pass through solids. or particulates. depending on the kind of tek you went with. with direct extraction of basic bark soup, imagine that the naptha only strips the outer layer of the bark, it needs time to wick up more dmt to the surface.
for a clean filtered soup, big droplets simply will not collide with small ones.
but you can tell wether or not its neccesary based on, how long does it take for a rainbow oily layer to form after all the naptha evaporated off the soup. if you already filtered it all and you havent got a slurry, you can probably just go back to back though, then when you finish add a splash of xylene or some water-washed paint thinner toluene (water removes the ethanol and acetone), let that sit for a few days, extract later and see what boiling naptha can pull out of that, unlike naptha, toluene is actually a strong solvent.
So last night I soaked my powder and added my base. Instead of adding the naphtha I fell asleep and now my jar is cold. Do I need to reheat my jar before adding the naphtha? Or can I just add it cold and begin the roll on my jar? Can I just add another shot of lye to get it heated up good again? Also once I add my naphtha how long do I need to roll and let it separate before my first pull? It’s been a year or so since I’ve done this but I’ve never let my jar go cold before I added the naphtha? Please advise….
froggydays
Esteemed member
You can use a hot water bath to slightly heat the jar for like 15 minutes.
Don't boil or overheat because the lye will further increase the solution temperature to over 100 degrees.
Thank you!use a hot water bath. microwaving naptha is bad. the microwaves could randomly ionize it, which, in the gas phase means plasma, which means explosion.
in leu of real chemistry equipment like a condenser, try improvising a cold trap using a sock/towel and a chunk of ice. cold wet fabric also resists naptha vapors a good deal without building pressure in a way that causes it to buildup, it just adds harmless resistance. though be mindful this also gives naptha a way to condense and dribble down outside the vessel.
also, naptha is hexane and heptane generally, or isomers that may as well be the same, and in low quality stuff, some higher chain length stuff too. hexane boils at a lower temp than heptane. the longer your naptha boils, the greater the heptane to hexane ratio becomes, and consequently, the less DMT can be dissolved in your naptha you can have, it wont really release that dmt back into the water but it will stop solvating it effectively, slowling the rate it draws it in. it can be disadvantageous to let it go so long the volume changes appreciably. if you find you dont get results if you arent at the boiling point of your naptha, keep this in mind that theres little benefit to the massive brain cell death caused by hexane fumes from boiling naptha.
Also, i have used phosphoric acid. it is not great. theres a dozen salt complexes it gives, it makes the viscosity of the fluid thicker, and salts like trisodium phosphate have chelative effects, causing transient solids to form as it encounters trace metal or calcium. to reach total acidification requires possibly more than 1 mol of phosphoric acid because equillibriums may establish between minerals, the dmt, and acid, resulting in things like poly-anion-phosphates, like, a 1-dmt-1-phosphate might be acidic enough that 2 DMTs could share a phosphate, or 1 dmt could take 2 phosphates while freebase is still there, your ph will be all over the place and an acidic solution might still hold freebase because the poor solubility/emulsion problems it gives allow for chaos. fumaric acid does something similar, as does citric. ultimately you might need everything to hold the maximum number of phosphate ions before you can trust the water solubility to be ionizing dmt sufficiently that it can migrate out of the resinous goo soaked in the bark particles it exists in.
use hydrochloric or acetic acid. your chosen acid should have the highest possible water solubility. acetic acid excluded, avoid carboxylic acids.
phosphoric acid by the way is benign at room temp but it can attack silica (glass, soda glass so bad it might crack it) when heated, and stainless steel components too. basic phosphate is "soapy".
sulfuric acid would be good but you have a mix of realy soluble and insoluble things, i wouldnt touch a sulfate-soup that wasnt VERY thoroughly filtered down to a nice clear tea, nor would i dare try concentrating it further.
you can use HCl if you go to a brew shop and buy a huge connical flask, they cost like $20/L of capacity. alternatively do what i do, go to a camping shop and buy a billy, which, is, an enamel coated pot. provided it never gets chipped, the enamel will happily tolerate very dilute hydrochloric acid, or any acid, even phosphoric for a while. also means you can use any acetic acid concentration you want at any amount of heat without leeching stainless metals like chrome into the soup. its great for when you want to go out camping in an acacia forest, and make some fresh acacia soup
you can spot problematic acids by how foamy they will let your soup become, if you want to try random stuff. if it lets it get all foamy its not lowering the surface tension much, and isnt penetrating cells well, besides also leaving lipids and fats in tact to form emulsions and protective capsules.
lastly, one reason to wait between pulls is that no amount of intimate stirring and shaking is going to coalesque the ultra fine droplets of dmt in naptha, besides time and heat. also, the dmt is slowed by having to pass through solids. or particulates. depending on the kind of tek you went with. with direct extraction of basic bark soup, imagine that the naptha only strips the outer layer of the bark, it needs time to wick up more dmt to the surface.
for a clean filtered soup, big droplets simply will not collide with small ones.
but you can tell wether or not its neccesary based on, how long does it take for a rainbow oily layer to form after all the naptha evaporated off the soup. if you already filtered it all and you havent got a slurry, you can probably just go back to back though, then when you finish add a splash of xylene or some water-washed paint thinner toluene (water removes the ethanol and acetone), let that sit for a few days, extract later and see what boiling naptha can pull out of that, unlike naptha, toluene is actually a strong solvent.
