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RDA for e-mesh Build are now unavailable online?

built2chill

Rising Star
I recently was able to have a couple delivered, maybe a month ago, but now when I look to order myself a couple extra for back stock all RDAs across all websites and vendors seem to reflect as "sold out" or "out of stock." (1/17/25)

Curious how this could possibly be the case. New laws, tariffs, or embargos I'm unaware of?
 
Yeah this is annoying. I'd think it's the lobbying against the vape industry that may be the culprit. There could also be some sort of shortage in a supply or resource needed to make the products.

In my state it's impossible to order anything only for the most part.

You can always transition over to the Divine Tribe V4 or 4 crucible.

One love
 
I recently was able to have a couple delivered, maybe a month ago, but now when I look to order myself a couple extra for back stock all RDAs across all websites and vendors seem to reflect as "sold out" or "out of stock." (1/17/25)

Curious how this could possibly be the case. New laws, tariffs, or embargos I'm unaware of?
Did you see the wotofo profile RDTA?
 
The wotofo profile RDTA looks to convert into the regular profile. Think that would work?
Hello, I can confirm that the Wotofo Profile RDTA works for the e-mesh build, and works wonderfully at that.
I was originally using the Wotofo Profile 1.5 rda’s as my go to until it was removed from market. At which point I was faced with the same question upon discovery of the RDTA. It will build the same as the 1.5 with some simple preliminary steps, as follows:

-the tank simply must be removed from the bottom of the RDA (the tank chamber [bottom chamber as it is configured upon first removal new from package] will easily unscrew at the top of the ‘glass’ from the RDA chamber.)

-if necessary also remove the thick steel cables if they happen to be protruding through the base of the RDA above, as they’re not needed for the e-mesh build.

-The current plate on the bottom of the RDA part (the top chamber we just separated from the bottom ‘tank’) should not be left as is, as it is designed to wick juice from the tank below it. Search the additional parts in the packaging for a round metal plate that should be included. Screw this onto the bottom of the RDA (effectively becoming its new base-plate [I find it also doubles up as a catcher for a good deal of ‘reclaim’ later down the road!])

-Also included in the package will be 2 gold pins that are able to screw into the bottom of the RDA, (pins for making the connection to the mod or battery for use), one gold pin will be solid and one will be hollow, with a hole straight thru it’s center. The hollow one is for something called a ‘squanch box’ which (at this point in time, at least) is not conducive to our needs. One of these may already be installed in the bottom of the RDA, we just want to make sure that it is the solid pin and not the hollow one.

-Congrats welcome to your newly repurposed ‘un-tanked’ RDA!

-Now, at this point it is functionally, for our intents & purposes, basically a Wotofo Profile 1.5. (Assuming from the thread that there is already familiarity with the 1.5 mesh RDA)

I hope this makes sense, & helps!
 
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Do you have details of this rebuild?
Can confirm VaporousDogma's insight. Thank you V!

I would add it seems you have to line up the cap fairly accurately with little margin for error or else it wont cover the o-rings. There's notches inside the cap and two of them come close to the mesh. I wind up looking inside the cap each time before putting it on to line it up. I'd prefer one easier to close the cap, but otherwise it works well. After trying this one, I can tell pretty much anything that'll take VandyVape mesh wire will likely work.
 
I recently picked up 3 Mpro rda's from Aliexpress. In canada, you can't source them as they've become 'illegal' due to not having a 'childproof stamp' (really?!?). Any sites like wish (US) won't ship them to Canada. Ali was my only possibility. They came faster than expected and work well with Vandyvape mesh (I'm using 200). I recently discovered a much better way (less loss) to load the mesh- take a small piece of parchment paper and fold it in half. Open it and put it on the scale, turn scale on or tare, then weigh your spice. Then put the amount in an area on the parchment about the same size as mesh. Fold the parchment in half and squeeze the spot of spice. Open it again and use a dab tool to place your 'pill' of spice on mesh, then light shots of heat to melt.
 
Hello, I can confirm that the Wotofo Profile RDTA works for the e-mesh build, and works wonderfully at that.
I was originally using the Wotofo Profile 1.5 rda’s as my go to until it was removed from market. At which point I was faced with the same question upon discovery of the RDTA. It will build the same as the 1.5 with some simple preliminary steps, as follows:

-the tank simply must be removed from the bottom of the RDA (the tank chamber [bottom chamber as it is configured upon first removal new from package] will easily unscrew at the top of the ‘glass’ from the RDA chamber.)

-if necessary also remove the thick steel cables if they happen to be protruding through the base of the RDA above, as they’re not needed for the e-mesh build.

-The current plate on the bottom of the RDA part (the top chamber we just separated from the bottom ‘tank’) should not be left as is, as it is designed to wick juice from the tank below it. Search the additional parts in the packaging for a round metal plate that should be included. Screw this onto the bottom of the RDA (effectively becoming its new base-plate [I find it also doubles up as a catcher for a good deal of ‘reclaim’ later down the road!])

-Also included in the package will be 2 gold pins that are able to screw into the bottom of the RDA, (pins for making the connection to the mod or battery for use), one gold pin will be solid and one will be hollow, with a hole straight thru it’s center. The hollow one is for something called a ‘squanch box’ which (at this point in time, at least) is not conducive to our needs. One of these may already be installed in the bottom of the RDA, we just want to make sure that it is the solid pin and not the hollow one.

-Congrats welcome to your newly repurposed ‘un-tanked’ RDA!

-Now, at this point it is functionally, for our intents & purposes, basically a Wotofo Profile 1.5. (Assuming from the thread that there is already familiarity with the 1.5 mesh RDA)

I hope this makes sense, & helps!
Did your RDTA come with a 510 squonk pin pre-installed (with threads) and an alternative 510 standard pin (without threads)? Picture attached.
 

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Did your RDTA come with a 510 squonk pin pre-installed (with threads) and an alternative 510 standard pin (without threads)? Picture attached.
I don’t believe so. Both pins came threaded with mine, that pin there in your photo (on the left) doesn’t look familiar to me. Both came looking similar to the one in my [attached] image, except the squonk pin, naturally was hollowed out (I can’t seem to find the box I last put it in to include in the photo, but it looks just like the one on the right in yours).
The only thing I can think of (that is, the only thing that makes sense for the situation) is maybe they shipped that one accidentally with a pre-machined pin?
 

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I don’t believe so. Both pins came threaded with mine, that pin there in your photo (on the left) doesn’t look familiar to me. Both came looking similar to the one in my [attached] image, except the squonk pin, naturally was hollowed out (I can’t seem to find the box I last put it in to include in the photo, but it looks just like the one on the right in yours).
The only thing I can think of (that is, the only thing that makes sense for the situation) is maybe they shipped that one accidentally with a pre-machined pin?
Thank you! They said it must have been a defect and are sending a replacement 510 pin. Have you been using the rdta or something else typically?
 


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