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Solvent for making changa??

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Omega2hk

Rising Star
Just read a great pdf handbook of extracting DMT, but I got one thing confused when I read about processing enhanced leaf.

My understanding is there are two form of DMT

1. Salted DMT which dissolve in polar solvent like water
2. Freebase DMT which dissolve in non polar solvent like naptha

The book suggest to use 100% ethyl alcohol / acetone / IPA (polar solvent)to dissolve FREEBASE DMT??

How does it happen? does it means freebase DMT cloud also dissolve in polar solvent but just slower or harder?

If someone has the Salted DMT, could he dissolve that with polar solvent and enhanced some leaves too?
 
:thumb_up: thanks for the reply, this gonna be helpful in the future.

But hey bro, someone has his freebase DMT in hands already and he want to enhance some leafs to make changa, should he use some polar solvent like IPA to dissolve that? Coz according to his knowledge freebase DMT could only be dissolved by non polar solvent like naptha?

Pls let him know if he has something misunderstood
 
Yes IPA should work but I prefer ethanol.

Here is a quote from pitubu that helped me produce my first changa blend.

some preliminary WARNINGS about the use of ethanol as a solvent in thye procedure described below:
- Ethanol is flammable and ethanol vapors are potentially explosive. Keep away from open fire and other sources of ignition (even static sparks), especially ethanol vapors.
- Obviously, all evaporation should be done in a highly ventilated area, preferably outside, and away from any sources of ignition.
- Other handling of hot ethanol should also be done in a well ventilated area.
- Additionally, breathing ethanol vapors that accumulate in an enclosed small space may cause loss of critical faculties and coordination of the operator.
- Be careful. Think ahead of what could go wrong and take adequate precautions.


Use no more ethanol than you need to cover the herbs with. Fill your mixing container with the herbs to measure its height in the container. Then remove the herbs again and fill the container with the ethanol. Now heat the mixing container with ethanol in a pre-prepared hot water bath. Try to use a container that you can close with a lid while you are not stirring. Otherwise too much water vapor might get into the ethanol and too much ethanol vapor gets into the atmosphere while you're working.

Add the harmala freebase first, it is the hardest to get to dissolve. The ethanol probably needs to be near boiling before the harmala freebase will dissolve completely. You may also need to stir or swirl a lot. When the harmala freebase has fully dissolved, you can add the dmt freebase, and this should dissolve readily. If any of the alkaloids will not dissolve fully, despite heating and stirring, only then add more ethanol and allow for the added ethanol to heat up. When all alkaloids have dissolved, then finally add your herbs, but leave a little bit (about 5%) out for later use. Now you are ready to evaporate the ethanol off.

Ideally, you should evaporate the ethanol as fast as reasonably possible. To do this, make sure the water bath is close to boiling again and cover it with some plastic wrap with a hole in it just wide enough to fit your ethanol, alkaloids and herb container. This stops the evaporation of the water in the bath, which would otherwise cause the water bath too cool down unnecessarily and it would deposit water vapor into the ethanol mixture, slowing down its evaporation.

A small fan can help speed up evaporation. Change the water in the water bath with fresh boiling water when the bath temperature too low. Keep stirring regularly to ensure good mixing and even deposition of the alkaloids on the herbal matrix. This gets more important as the amount of ethanol decreases to a small layer below the top of the herbs.

When almost no ethanol is present as a liquid, take the container out of the water bath, dry the container's outer side from water, and dump the still hot and ethanol-wet changa onto a preheated dish. The larger exposed surface should aid in getting the final bits of ethanol to evaporate quickly.

Now you'll probably notice a lot of residue sticking on the inside of the container. Use half of the herbs that you saved earlier to scrape the walls clean. Add these herbs to the dish and mix it in with the drying changa. When the changa in the dish has dries sufficiently, put it on another clean dish. The other dish probably also has accumulated some residue. Wet the last bits of clean herb that you reserved with ethanol and wipe the residue from the dish with it. Add this herb to the bowl and mix thoroughly.

The last step is to place the bowl in an oven preheated to 140 degrees Celcius. The oven must be turned off before you put the bowl inside it. I cannot stress this enough, the oven must be turned off before placing the ethanol-wet changa mix inside. When ethanol vapor comes in contact with anything hotter than 365 degrees centigrade, it spontaneously takes fire (or perhaps even explodes). The heater element when red hot, or even a spark from the thermostat switch, are hotter than that. Make sure that the oven is turned off, so that none of this can happen while there are ethanol vapors inside the oven.

With the bowl of almost dry changa inside, leave the oven door slightly ajar to let ethanol and water vapor escape. You can only do this oven drying when the changa has only minute traces of ethanol present or else the amount of vapor given off would be dangerous. After an hour of drying, the oven will be sufficiently cool to take out the bowl with changa. Smell test to check for the presence of ethanol. If no more smell of ethanol is discernible, store the changa in a closed jar and smoke and share as you like.

I repeat one more time that all evaporation should be done outside, well away from sources of ignition. Other handling of hot ethanol should also be done in a well ventilated area. Ethanol is flammable, ethanol vapors are potentially explosive. Additionally, breathing ethanol vapors that accumulate in an enclosed small space can cause loss of critical faculties and coordination of the operator.

Be careful. Enjoy
 
But still, if anyone can tell why at the stage of making changa would use iPA / ethanol non polar solvent to dissolve freebase instead of naphtha / xylene polar solvent
 
It looks like you are confusing the concepts "changa" and "enhanced leaf". These are not the same things. Enhanced leaf holds only dmt freebase, changa also contains harmala alkaloids.

The quote that AlchemicalGnostic gave you was originally written specifically for the purpose of preparing changa. That is why ethanol is used, as harmala alkaloids do not dissolve in naphtha. (Actually when I make changa, I use methanol, but since it is harder to get and more poisonous than ethanol, thus requiring greater care in its handling, the instructions that I wrote use ethanol.)

If you only want to prepare enhanced leaf, you could use naphtha as a solvent just fine.

Omega2hk said:
My understanding is there are two form of DMT

1. Salted DMT which dissolve in polar solvent like water
2. Freebase DMT which dissolve in non polar solvent like naptha

The book suggest to use 100% ethyl alcohol / acetone / IPA (polar solvent)to dissolve FREEBASE DMT??

How does it happen? does it means freebase DMT cloud also dissolve in polar solvent but just slower or harder?
It's not a black and white situation. Solvents are not strictly polar or strictly non polar. Solvents exhibit a certain amount of polarity. Whereas water is at the very polar end, while napthta is at the non polar end, alcohols are more in between. And then even different alcohols have different polarities, eg. butanol is less polar than ethanol.

With solvents, like dissolves like. Water (very polar) will dissolve very little freebase dmt (non polar) but much more dmt salts (polar). Naphtha (very non polar) will dissolve very little dmt salts (polar) but much more dmt freebase. Well that is the theory. In practice it is more complicated. For example, per volume, ethanol will dissolve a lot more dmt freebase than naphtha, even though it is strictly speaking more polar than naphtha. Ethanol will also dissolve some amount of dmt salts. Another example, harmala alkaloids like harmaline are very soluble in water as a salt, but almost insoluble in either water or naphtha as a freebase. Both the salt and the freebase are somewhat soluble in ethanol though.

Have a look at this page for the solubility data (and many more) on dmt and related compounds: Psychedelic Compounds Chemical and Physical Properties - DMT-Nexus Wiki

Omega2hk said:
If someone has the Salted DMT, could he dissolve that with polar solvent and enhanced some leaves too?
You probably could if you used the right solvent, but salt forms of dmt have a much higher boiling point than freebase and thus are not as practical to smoke as freebase is. Therefore, you should first convert such salts to the freebase before attempting to smoke (vaporize really) them.
 
pitubo said:
For example, per volume, ethanol will dissolve a lot more dmt freebase than naphtha, even though it is strictly speaking more polar than naphtha.
What is worth considering here, if only for the love of science, is that DMT freebase, too, is a polar molecule. It's just not protonated like in its salts. (I know you know this, pitubo! Bear with me...)

While we often rely on naphtha for dissolving DMT base from plant material or its crude extracts, this is not because it's particularly good at dissolving DMT, rather - its ready availability, its immiscibility with water and the additional useful property, arising from the solubility curve of DMT, which allows us to utilise freeze precipitation.

That's kind of serendipitous, if you think about it.
 
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