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blacksheep

Rising Star
Hi everyone, new here pleased to meet you all... Right now I'm attempting to cause an a/b reaction in order to harvest crystals, or goop. I'm using MHRB, last night I got what looks like dark burgandy cough syrup from the plant matter,(500ml.), and right now its sitting in a sep. funnel, with just under 200ml. naphtha. I've been reading that there may be no reason to de-fat with m.hostilis, so what the hell is in the naphtha than, when I see this stuff that looks like gilia/connective tissue, with bubbles in it , is it just un separated solution or is it fats?? Now I have some questions about these quick teks, which seem more appealing but I'm confused about there possibility. I've been under the impression that the reason these are called "alkaloids", is due the generic feature all alkaloids share which is that they are alkaline/basic in there natural state? If this is the case, why dont they fall into the non-polar wash if you dont form the acid salt first, but instead wash with naphtha or what have you first? In the a/b method of extraction, we use the hydroxide of choice to cause the alkaloids to become insoluble in H2O, so how does it work to free the alkaloids from the plant matter if using a basic solution as the first application (before or instead of acid solution)? It is my understanding that when forming an acid salt, that the acid and the alkaloid form the weeker of atomic bonds where in the valences of the molecules join hands so to speak, so what about basifying breaks this bond? I understand that the hydroxide solution shreds the plant materiel but I dont understand how it separates it from the alkaloid, what sort of relationship happens with the tryptamine and the hydroxide. Please forgive my ignorance on the subject as I am very new to all of this, and thank you for your help in defining these reactions and relationships in these in invisable processes.
 
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Hi, It doesn't hurt anything to defat, I just find it unnecessary. What you're seeing in your naptha is probably just some stuff that got emulsified when you agitated the solution. I'd just separate it and. continue. As for the quick teks, I don't know exactly why they work so well A recent thought was that the high lye concentration caused the alkaloids to migrate out of the bark through osmosis.
 
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The polar extraction: uses acid to help move the alkaloid out of the fiber and into solution. With Mimosa rootbark, a defat is usually not necessary, but if performed, it should be done with toluene or xylene "pulls" on the acidified water stage because the DMT salt will not go into the toluene or xylene. The fats and waxes WILL, since they are NOT salts even in an acid solution. All plant sources of DMT need to be defatted except Mimosa rootbark Basification. Done by adding a base (sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide) to raise the ph up to 13.4 or more. Failure to reach 13.4 results in poor yields and persistant emulsions (naptha-water bubbles). Add 2% of the weight of the water to guarantee that 13.4 has been reached. Err on the side of more lye rather than less. This step converts the DMT salt into the DMT freebase form soluble in naptha. The nonpolar extraction: uses naptha or hexane to remove the DMT freebase from basified water solution. Typically done by multiple "pulls" of naptha or hexane, which floates on the top after the container has been inverted several times, then is removed with a glass syringe or "turkey baster". The multiple "pulls" of naptha are combined for the next step. Typically, three "pulls" of 100ml each (total 300ml) are used per pound of rootbark. Evaporation or freeze-precipitation: while the naptha can be evaporated (just about essential for any plant other than Mimosa), freeze-preciptation gets a visibly cleaner product and is the currently preferred method. Place the naptha in a glass baking pan and seal the pan with plastic wrap. Place in a freezer for up to three days. Remove and IMMEDIATELY pour off the naptha before it can warm up even a few degrees. Do this gently to not dislosge the white crystals on the bottom of the pan. Reseal the pan with plastic wrap to prevent moisture from condensing onto the crystals in the form of frost. Once warmed up to room temp ( a few hours), remove the plastic and let the DMT dry out overnight. Scrape up with a pair of razor blades. Purification: optional step done by washing the DMT with ammonium hydroxide or re-crystallizing with minimal virgin naptha. Smoking: done to get the freebased DMT into the bloodstream. Done with either a glass-bulb pipe or with a regular pipe between thin layers of ash or dried plant material. Most newbies find the second method easier and more convenient. Use 50milligrams. Almost the size of an eraser on a new pencil.
 
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osmosis? That makes sense, thank you... If this layer is dicarded with the emulsions wont that amount to loss? or is it insignificant? With the quick tek where in one uses the hydroxide solution first, would it still work if instead of boiling the plant matter like a sauce with the base, the plant matter was susspended in a soxhlet basket with the basified water dripping through rather than totally the plant matter being totally saturated in the entire solution. And what should the pH of the solution be, 13.5? All I've seen is that one should add 200g.NaOH to an un-specific amount of H2O for 2,000g. or 1,000g. of plant matter (somthing like that). Also the quick tek says it's OK to use tap water in place of dH2O, I'd imagine this is OK if your tap water is ok, but tap water varies from tap to tap not only in pH, but in adulterants such as fungi/herbicides, or hard as opposed to soft waters, are these things not going to alter the final outcome? Another question I have which I forgot to add to my original post is about "re-straining" when the layers don't/won't compleatly seperate. Does this mean that we would pour the entire contents, aqueous layer and non-polar layer through a filter of some kind? And what exactlly does this do?
 
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I doubt that much spice got into your naptha. To be sure, you could just save it and add it back into your basified solution. Any emulsion will break once it hits that high pH. Hitting that 13.4 or above is really critical. The fact that you're using a defat makes me think that you might be using the QT or Yoda tek. Be warned, they're wrong. They both over acidify and under basify. Actually I think the QT tek specs three different pHs. And Yoda tells one to "shake the shit out of" their underbasified solution. Result - an emulsion that I could have spread like a soft cheese. But I digress...
 
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I've been looking at QT'S tek Elfspices tek, I acidified to around 2, how detrimental is that to the outcome. ELfspices tek says to basify to 13.4 o13.5, which is what I intended on but havn't gotten that far, that's quite a climb in pH.
 
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One has heard that too much acid can result in only getting yellow goo in the extraction. Can't say for sure since at the time that my friend was acidifying like that, he was also underbasifying and getting nothing but emulsions. He humbly thanked the DMT gods for any yellow goo he could get.
 
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I'm not saying for sure that you're going to get goo. One part vinegar to three parts water works great for my friend. That probably works out to around pH 4. You could use straight vinegar and still not take the pH too low. That is one of the many great things about Marsofold's tek. If you do get gooed, you could rework your goo in another A/B or maybe try redissolving it in a minimal amount of heptane and see what separates out of that.
 
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So last night I became a born again christian and have vowed to stay away from projects that heighten my awareness. I was about to throw out the mhrb solution, when I opened up to psalms. In the first verse there it was written by David that we shall not stand in the way of sinners, so I got a hold of a sinner freind of mine and handed over the project and its components, and he has taken over. He checked the pH of the solution and found it to be 3.4 The dH2O was acidified to 2 or less before the plant matter was added so after reacting w/ the bark it rose to 3.4. He proceeded to sin by stirring in a basic solution of 14.5 adjusting the solutions pH to 13.6,, added the non-polar solvent and said there was no emulsion after toppling the vessel for 10 minutes at a time and settling for 10 minutes. The first non-polar wash was set in a dish on a heating pad with a heating fan blowing on it within 2 hours he had finished all the washes, put the last two a way and proceeded to scrape out 200mg. or so of clear crystals that turned white and fluffy when scraped up. This morning he evaporated the final washes and began to scrape up the white clumps and film but this batch turned into goop upon scraping, looking like THC oil, amber, very dark when together, almost black at a glance, orangeish amber when smeared,so he set it in the freezer to se what happens, he'd like to know if this is the goop he's heared about or if somthing else went wrong or if this is normal, could it be the contrast of the cold night warm morning? He had only this to say when he saw the first batch evaporate: "BOO-FUCKIN-YAH!!!!!!!!!!!!" He was a little timid about trying it because about 8 years ago,he had over the top experiences taking too much Salvia extract and to high of doses with 5-Meo-DMT so he told himself to humble with visually dosing himself this time as the scale he has goes only to .1g, not .01g. He said he actually couldve handled much more than he ended up doing but that it was a very nice experience, no visual but typical of a tryptamine experience, comfertable and welcoming, he enjoyed the stars on the crisp night sky. He dosn't have a propper glass smoking vessel so ended up smoking off of foil and said much of the dose evaporated before he got too it, the glass tube he breathed it through is about 8 inches long, hed like to know if it should be shorter so the vapor gets up there better or if the tryptamine is volatile enough to make it up. He also says that he keeps finding crystals on this and that around the kitchen because he's a clumsy slob who spills. He said the smell is nice, very familiar but not sure to what it resembles, but thinks it reminds him of a new born baby fresh from the whomb, or mabey a plaacenta or somthing, but at the moment he hasn't got the baby/womb/placenta to compare it to.
 
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this was done using 50.1g mhrb by the way, Hes not sure of over all yield yet but thinks it should've been higher(?) but he's not complaining, infact he's glowing with content.
 
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Nice job. Mimosa is reported to contain .57% alkaloid, so 200mg plus the goo (which is the goo of which we speak) is pretty good yield. Try redissolving that goo in just enough warm naptha to dissolve it and freeze precipitating it. I'll bet you end up with white crystals and slightly yellowish naptha.
 
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