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The Inspirator mkII: Convection Vaporizer [~$10-$20 to produce in bulk]
- Thread starter amor_fati
- Start date
mumbles said:
Mostly ebay is the best bet: ebay "ceramic fiber" -gasket -gaskets - Google Shopping
It'd be interesting to see how ceramic fiber paper works, as well.
Also, SWIM's had some new inspiration from the design of the vapbong, in the sense that the airflow doesn't necessarily need to pass directly through the heat sink (a notable difficulty when it comes to working with ceramic fiber), nor does the glass piece holding the product need to be the same piece holding the heat sink. There was some disagreement as to the effectiveness of said device in another thread, but SWIM feels both sides of that were a bit off: From SWIM's work with dropper stems, he knows a device of that design can hold the normal amount of spice (as long it's in a dense form or slightly compacted), and he doesn't understand why one wouldn't use screens and load it as it's intended to be. Anyway, it's inspired an idea for a similarly operating homemade device that uses ceramics, instead of glass, as the heat sink.
Plus the site had some handy pictorials:
Plus the site had some handy pictorials:
SWIM's taking a slightly different approach to the concept for the mkII: He's come up with an idea for cap fitting that will act as the heat sink by inserting caps made from screens (like the one pictured above, to the left) into one another with ceramic fiber in between the caps. A plug made like the one pictured above and to the left will be inserted partway down the dropper stem to provide a reservoir to load product into and a stopper and mesh to melt it into. There may also be glass beads or granules between the plug and the nozzle, and the theory behind it would be to disperse the hot air throughout the stem to ensure adequate distribution throughout piece, preventing run-off. The glass granules may prove unnecessary or even a hindrance, however.
The important aspect of this design is the removable ceramic element, allowing product to be loaded into the same side as heat is to be applied, as well as the fact of the heat sink being somewhat raised away from the product and not in direct contact with the glass. Due to the nature of how the cap is placed, whether airflow actually makes it through the ceramic or not, it will at least leak in from the sides across the ceramic, drawing heat as it passes.
The important aspect of this design is the removable ceramic element, allowing product to be loaded into the same side as heat is to be applied, as well as the fact of the heat sink being somewhat raised away from the product and not in direct contact with the glass. Due to the nature of how the cap is placed, whether airflow actually makes it through the ceramic or not, it will at least leak in from the sides across the ceramic, drawing heat as it passes.
Attachments
It's a slightly different design than was originally planned, but here's a preview of the mkII design. Instead of using a cap, it uses a plug, but the idea is exactly the same with the plug being removable so that the spice may be placed between the the plugs. This design consistently prevents run-off of spice down the stem due to being loaded from the topside, rather than the underside. It also avoids direct contact of the flame and the heating element (the removable plug) from product by maintaining adequate spacing, and of course, the heating element diffuses the heat of the flame to provide convection heating to the bowl.
It's quite possible that the removable element doesn't necessarily require embedded ceramic fiber to function, but it could only help. The one pictured utilizes ceramic, but SWIM will try going without as well. Removing the plug is fairly simple and can be accomplished by either plucking it out with the fingertips, picking it out with a safety pin, or blowing into the back end of the dropper stem.
A wiki article will be drafted detailing the construction of this model, quite soon.
It's quite possible that the removable element doesn't necessarily require embedded ceramic fiber to function, but it could only help. The one pictured utilizes ceramic, but SWIM will try going without as well. Removing the plug is fairly simple and can be accomplished by either plucking it out with the fingertips, picking it out with a safety pin, or blowing into the back end of the dropper stem.
A wiki article will be drafted detailing the construction of this model, quite soon.
Attachments
I've replaced the mkI's embedded wiki with the mkII's if anyone's interested in following along (a little scrunched compared to the actual page, but zoom out if you must). So far, the instructions for building the heating element have been completed. The rest is pretty straight-forward, just building the plug to insert into a dropper stem as the bowl, installing gaskets to provide the seal for a bubbler, how use and maintenance, but it'll all be there before too long.
Testing with this has yielded remarkable results: Breakthroughs at 30-40mg with one hit, consistent lack of drippage, very little precipitation (only after repeated use, easy to clean (pipetting IPA with the unit itself then rinsing with warm water and blow drying...with the mouth), and so far SWIM hasn't been able to burn or overheat despite a lack of real effort in the matter. It's as simple as get the element red, back off a bit when vapor is produced, carb, repeat.
Testing with this has yielded remarkable results: Breakthroughs at 30-40mg with one hit, consistent lack of drippage, very little precipitation (only after repeated use, easy to clean (pipetting IPA with the unit itself then rinsing with warm water and blow drying...with the mouth), and so far SWIM hasn't been able to burn or overheat despite a lack of real effort in the matter. It's as simple as get the element red, back off a bit when vapor is produced, carb, repeat.
Well, there it is. Check it out, try it out, see what you think: The Inspirator mkII - DMT-Nexus Wiki
The next step for this is pre-prepared dosages. Currently, a screen bent into a shell with a measured chunk of freebase in it could be loaded straight into the bowl with the open-end down, then melted into the plug. The screen that carried the dose could be left in place and ejected after use. The dose-loaded screen shells could be stored in pharmaceutical capsules, perhaps re-enforced with a sealant. The screens would also be re-usable, as they can remain open without hassle if individually packaged. The "magic bullet method?"
Well guess what. SWIM reports that the heating element (the little cork-like piece in the end) can be made to work without ceramic fiber by simply constructing it from steel screens in the same manner as the plug that forms the base of the bowl. Meaning that the device can simply be constructed from screens, a dropper, and rubber gaskets. It's likely that the device will work fine without a bubbler, as well, though a longer dropper than the one currently pictured in the tek would be ideal for this.
The ceramic fiber does make it a bit easier to produce a cool vapor with little consideration for technique, however, but try it without and consider getting a bit of ceramic if it strikes a fancy to go pro. The two variations have been dubbed the "Spiceliner Technique" and the "Night Elf Technique" respectively for the heating element with and without ceramic fiber.
The ceramic fiber does make it a bit easier to produce a cool vapor with little consideration for technique, however, but try it without and consider getting a bit of ceramic if it strikes a fancy to go pro. The two variations have been dubbed the "Spiceliner Technique" and the "Night Elf Technique" respectively for the heating element with and without ceramic fiber.
Interesting developments lately. Having purchased a bunch of the wrong kind of pipette (the kind with the bent tip), SWIM decided to apply an old technique to rectify the situation: he simply crushed off the very tip with a pair of pliers, and melted down the sharp edges with a jet lighter. As a consequence, the hole was opened much wider. This allowed SWIM to easily move the plug up and down the stem, which can serve a number of purposes by, for example, making it easier to clean as well as enabling easy adjustment for if the product is sitting too far from or too close to the heat element. Foreseeably, this would also enable the piece to be more easily used for vaporizing other materials (changa and whatnot).
The photos illustrate what I'm talking about here, and notice the last photo where prior to storing the piece in a dropper bottle of IPA, the plug can be moved to the bottom end to insure that it's well-cleaned prior to next use.
The photos illustrate what I'm talking about here, and notice the last photo where prior to storing the piece in a dropper bottle of IPA, the plug can be moved to the bottom end to insure that it's well-cleaned prior to next use.
Attachments
Alright folks the final phase of the tek is complete (pending feedback). SWIM's done a fair share of testing with changa and herb with the new design, and it seems to work quite well (though admittedly this is his first time using changa and vaporizing herb). You'll have to refer directly to the tek for updates, but there's quite a lot.
Also, I'm putting up a request for testers. I'm especially looking for feedback from seasoned VG and changa vets. Ceramic fiber is preferable for this design, but try it without before springing for some; it does work well enough this way in SWIM's opinion. Also note that a bubbler is not necessary but is preferable.
Also, I'm putting up a request for testers. I'm especially looking for feedback from seasoned VG and changa vets. Ceramic fiber is preferable for this design, but try it without before springing for some; it does work well enough this way in SWIM's opinion. Also note that a bubbler is not necessary but is preferable.
ChickenTikka
Rising Star
For people having a hard time finding ceramic fibre, i've ordered some fire rope, it appears to be a rope made from ceramic fibre, and there appears to be a good few places selling it by the metre online, quite cheap. I'll report back once i get it.
Edit:
Ah bloody hell i bought the wrong stuff, i have glass fibre rope instead of ceramic.
Edit:
Ah bloody hell i bought the wrong stuff, i have glass fibre rope instead of ceramic.
Ceramic Vapor Stones are also a good option if your intent on building your own vaporizor style spice pipe,
amor_fati said:
I've used ceramic paper. The stuff that I got I assumed would be fully ceramic paper but it was paper with a ceramic weave which burned but didn't catch fire. A simple bic burned a hole through it in 5 sec.
Think I might order some ceramic fibre, can it be rolled into a decent ball or is there ceramic weaved rope that might work.
I just emailed some fiberglass rope sellers that "I'm worried about fumes coming off the rope when I open the door to put more wood in" because the MSDS says MP=800C BP=NA. It ~could~ work, maybe. It is said to be safe to use for fire-spinners.
Edit: actually regardless of the fact that it doesn't vaporize at any temp, and might have additives, I did a non-smoking test and the DMT flowed to the inside of the rope and wouldn't all vaporize. Meh, copper has always treated me right, it vaporizes way before the copper even gets red.
ChickenTikka said:
I think I found the final solution to this issue: $5 SAFE Non-Ceramic Fiber Blanket Sheet
from the description:
This may only be available in limited quantities from this merchant, but it shouldn't be the only place to find it.
Ice House said:
This would be perfect for The Key if fittings of adequate size are available.
q21q21 said:
Well, thanks for testing. Copper's not bad for what how it's typically used (more traditional versions of "the machine" ), but for proper convection heating, a better insulating material is desirable.
I just made an order of one 1/2" 8"x8" sheet.
Curious that is non-ceramic.
The MSDS states
"COMPOSITION
COMPONENT______________________%_______CAS Number
Alkaline-earth silicate wools_100_____436083-99-7*
Composition:
* CAS definition: Alkaline earth silicate (AES) consisting of silica (50-82 wt%), calcia and magnesia (18-43
wt%), alumina, titania and zirconia (less than 6 wt%), and trace oxides."
also
"When inhaled, even at very high doses, they do not accumulate to any level capable of
producing a serious adverse biological effect."
and another
"Simulated after use (up to 8 weeks at 1000°C) AES fibres were not toxic to macrophage like cells."
from here
Curious that is non-ceramic.
The MSDS states
"COMPOSITION
COMPONENT______________________%_______CAS Number
Alkaline-earth silicate wools_100_____436083-99-7*
Composition:
* CAS definition: Alkaline earth silicate (AES) consisting of silica (50-82 wt%), calcia and magnesia (18-43
wt%), alumina, titania and zirconia (less than 6 wt%), and trace oxides."
also
"When inhaled, even at very high doses, they do not accumulate to any level capable of
producing a serious adverse biological effect."
and another
"Simulated after use (up to 8 weeks at 1000°C) AES fibres were not toxic to macrophage like cells."
from here
q21q21 said:
Same here.
Yeah, it seems like something between fiberglass and ceramic with the insulation properties of ceramic. I've never had reason to worry about exposure in my designs considering the small amount and how solidly the ceramic is kept (that and the lack of respiratory irritation), but I'd definitely feel better about using something "body fluid soluble" instead.
There's some revisions in the works for both the mkI & II, actually, and in the long term, possibly a mkIII utilizing aerogel.
I've been trying to use the earth-silicate blanket and I'm having a hard time vaporizing the DMT off of it reliably. I don't know whether it is denaturing or just not getting hot enough. All I know is that it isn't working very well currently.
I''m gonna read over your posts about ceramic fibre but any tips would be great cause with my first few attempts:
Copper > Earth silicate blanket
Edit:
I just wrapped a thin wire around the blanket and it is working much better now
I''m gonna read over your posts about ceramic fibre but any tips would be great cause with my first few attempts:
Copper > Earth silicate blanket
Edit:
I just wrapped a thin wire around the blanket and it is working much better now
q21q21 said:
Do not use ceramic in direct contact with the product--can't stress this enough. It is not a good conductor. Please try using it in a similar manner to the mkII by passing hot air around it (as in convection) rather than relying on conduction.
I just wrapped a thin wire around the blanket and it is working much better now
I suppose that could draw conductive heat off the wire to better regulate the temperature. I really can't picture how it's being used though.