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Trouble in the mix

Trimed

Rising Star
Hi all,
I’m looking for some help!

I took 800g of mhrb added 30g natural citric acid crystals dissolved in deionised water made a paste which took the ph down to 2

Then swung it back to pH 11 using sodium hydroxide in water

Heated it and cooled thrice in a slow cooker then transferred to bottles

Added the naphtha, sealed them, turned them over a few times and left to settle out

The naphtha came back dark brown colour

Winterised it to yeild a brown oily freebase, not crystalline?

Is this shit okay to use?


Cheers!
 

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Forgot to mention that after seeing this (photo) I tipped it back into slow cooker and added table salt
 
brown naphtha and brown freebase often means it is contaminated with base soup and plant material. you can try cleaning it up with a sodium carbonate wash or mini AB and pull again with clean naphtha and make sure it fully separates before pulling

the heating/cooling is usually done in the acid phase, how long did you leave it in acid? it doesn't make much sense to add acid, do nothing, then basify.
 
800g bark was an excessive amount to commit to a process without fully understanding what you're doing.

The brown material can be redissolved in acid, separated from any insolubles, re-based and pulled, etc., all over again. That should clean it up, but take care to exclude every last remnant of base solution from your freeze precipitation dish.
 
800g bark was an excessive amount to commit to a process without fully understanding what you're doing.

The brown material can be redissolved in acid, separated from any insolubles, re-based and pulled, etc., all over again. That should clean it up, but take care to exclude every last remnant of base solution from your freeze precipitation dish.
I’ve done this method many times before without any issues, even if I leave the clear naphtha sitting on top of the menstrum it turns brown within an hour or two?
 
brown naphtha and brown freebase often means it is contaminated with base soup and plant material. you can try cleaning it up with a sodium carbonate wash or mini AB and pull again with clean naphtha and make sure it fully separates before pulling

the heating/cooling is usually done in the acid phase, how long did you leave it in acid? it doesn't make much sense to add acid, do nothing, then basify.
I’ve crystallised out the DMT, is it possible to use a saline of hot sodium bicarbonate to wash the crystals if I melt them down, then rinse and add fresh distilled water to the oil before leaving to crystallise again?

I have no idea what why the oils are so dark?

I’ve always used this method before without any issues but in future I’ll just go stb
 
I’ve done this method many times before without any issues, even if I leave the clear naphtha sitting on top of the menstrum it turns brown within an hour or two?
Sounds like an issue with the bark, the lye or the naphtha. Are you using a new batch of any of these?
swung it back to pH 11 using sodium hydroxide in water

Heated it and cooled thrice in a slow cooker then transferred to bottles
Have you always done it this way round? As mentioned above, it's far more usual to perform temperature cycles on the acidified material. There's a far higher risk of side reactions from heating with strong base. I also wonder about the inside of your slow cooker - what material is that made of?
I’ve crystallised out the DMT, is it possible to use a saline of hot sodium bicarbonate to wash the crystals if I melt them down, then rinse and add fresh distilled water to the oil before leaving to crystallise again?

I have no idea what why the oils are so dark?

I’ve always used this method before without any issues but in future I’ll just go stb
Redissolve the whole lot in acid, filter out any insolubles, repeat the base step (minus the heating!!!) and naphtha pulls and you should get a decent result on freeze precipitation. I think it's mostly flavonoid contamination from digesting the bark with lye, although you may also have etched the inside of your slow cooker.
 
Sounds like an issue with the bark, the lye or the naphtha. Are you using a new batch of any of these?

Have you always done it this way round? As mentioned above, it's far more usual to perform temperature cycles on the acidified material. There's a far higher risk of side reactions from heating with strong base. I also wonder about the inside of your slow cooker - what material is that made of?

Redissolve the whole lot in acid, filter out any insolubles, repeat the base step (minus the heating!!!) and naphtha pulls and you should get a decent result on freeze precipitation. I think it's mostly flavonoid contamination from digesting the bark with lye, although you may also have etched the inside of your slow cooker.
It’s ceramic and new so no issues there.
Thanks for responding.
I do a lot of extraction herb/mineral alchemical in nature.
I think the swing is the issue, I used a lot more citric this time but then I used a far greater quantity of mhrb….
Perhaps it’s pulling other alkaloids other than the DMT.
I’ll freebase using stb in future

So when you say redissolve the whole lot I’m assuming you mean the vulgar crystals right?

Will white vinegar do? I’ve nothing stronger at hand atm
 
It’s ceramic and new so no issues there.
Thanks for responding.
I do a lot of extraction herb/mineral alchemical in nature.
I think the swing is the issue, I used a lot more citric this time but then I used a far greater quantity of mhrb….
Perhaps it’s pulling other alkaloids other than the DMT.
I’ll freebase using stb in future

So when you say redissolve the whole lot I’m assuming you mean the vulgar crystals right?

Will white vinegar do? I’ve nothing stronger at hand atm
What you said makes a lot of sense, thanks
 
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