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Using Pereskiopsis as a root stock for Trichocereus

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Anybody messing around with this? I'm gonna get started on some experimentation once I get some cuttings. Supposed to boost growth significantly. Especially for seedings, small pups, or ever areoles.
 
Interesting, most work I see uses it as a stock but not for just root growth, instead the stock is exposed to light as well. I am sure it will work though.
 
yeah, I guess I meant overall as a grafting stock. It seems to have some obvious benefits in the photosynthesis department.
 
pere is best for seedlings- graft them while they are quite young. i like to graft them while they are still in their initial seedling growth spurt (first week or so of life)

small pups etc- best on other san pedros. the pc clone makes great grafting stock (as it is otherwise almost useless) other columnar cacti can be effective as well.

(i've posted teoz' book on grafting in another thread somewhere- it is a great resource!
here it is: Grafting Book L.W. Grafting Bible - Cultivation - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
 
wow- so early. I figured I'd have to grow them on for 6 months to a year, then graft them. I'm looking forward to trying my hand at it, so that's good to know.
 
^ lots of people wait longer- as long as the scion is in active growth take rates are pretty high
but i always had best success rates going early overall
 
It's rewarding to watch them grow like that. Clone and grow your Pereskiopsis in some outside patch (if not too cold, lots of them).
I hear planting in Perlite/aquarium rocks works well. 10-10-10, cfl lights and a fan and off you go...fun times often a lil prickly, but you'll get used to it :)

teoz' book should tell you everything you need to know.
 
seeing my first signs of tricho seed germination today. Pereskiopsis are doing well too. Might attempt grafting soon, or maybe wait till more like springtime since I don't have lights. Some folks tell me grafting is better in the spring.

edit- who am I kidding- I'll try as soon as I can. Probably have better success rate in spring, but I've got plenty of seeds.
 
dg said:
^ lots of people wait longer- as long as the scion is in active growth take rates are pretty high
but i always had best success rates going early overall
that's what i read, but my success rate was at 0% until i waited at LEAST 6 month (i did get one to take for a a couple weeks and he got bigger, but ended up turning yellow and falling off - there was no visible rot). my working space and utensils were all sterilized, and the procedure was done exactly the same as my later grafts (all of which took but one, but that was because i tried a humidity tent and it rotted).

nicechrisman said:
Some folks tell me grafting is better in the spring.
grafting is definitely better in the spring, especially if you live in a cold/not well lit climate (like me).
in fact i have my pere and achuma seedlings all ready to go, just waiting for the right weather.
 
imo grafting seedlings is best done in a controlled environment.
i never recommend grafting seedlings outdoors. so season is not too important
 
oh yeah! No outdoors till they are old..make sure to put them in a humid environment for a week after grafting.
Cheap cfl lamps and some old computer fans is all you need for some indoor garden..
 
dg said:
i never recommend grafting seedlings outdoors. so season is not too important
i get very little light before summer, so i need to keep them next to the window, which can get cold at night... if they are only a couple inches from the cold window, they can get cold too...

cacti don't grow outside in AK afaik.
 
I'm in the NW too. Not as far as Alaska, but almost. I'm considering getting a T5 set up but not really sure if I want to invest the money right now. For now my west facing windowsills will have to do. And they do get a little chilly. My pereskiopsis seem to be doing fine so far though, but maybe grafting wouldn't be quite as easy.

My other option would be to get taller domes for my seed trays and have them on heat mats and have my recent grafts in there, but this would mean limited light. I wonder what's more beneficial- light or warmth?
 
both
rec'd about 16hrs diffuse solar hours
(40w floro tubes worked well for me)
and 70-80*f

hard to get either of those in a window in feb. (n.hemisphere)
 
yote's seem easier than torch to grapht onto pere
this technique works just fine for columnar cacti as long as you line and bind them up right
 
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i have yet to try columnar to columnar
 
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