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Waxy Consistency Extract?

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mushtomb

Rising Star
SWIM performed a STB extraction. The first naptha pull SWIM took was taken a little prematurely (which was ok, because it was a very small pull anyway), but he did get some nice white crystals. SWIM tried smoking it, but the quantity must have been insufficient for a trip. SWIM felt as if he was starting to trip, but then nothing happened past that feeling. SWIM's second naptha pull yielded a ton of white/yellow crystals. SWIM tried scraping them, and a sort of yellow waxy/gooey ball formed which took many of white crystals with it. Is the waxy ball safe to smoke? SWIM would conjecture that letting it sit for a couple days would dry it out? If that isn't the case, is there a way to get extract from it? Although SWIM doesn't have a scale, SWIM would think the ball is about 1/4 to 1/2 gram which SWIM feels is going to be a substantial part of his yield for his 56 grams of mimosa. SWIM doesn't want it going to waste, and he accidentally got a lot of the white crystals stuck to it (there are some more crystals SWIM hasn't scraped yet). Any advice? Thanks.
 
Sounds like you didn't let it dry entirely.
Next time do a freeze precipitation to get your spice out of the solvent, it is very simple...really!!

You could do a re-crystallization to clean up your goo ball. Which is basically redissolving dirty extract into a small amount of warm solvent, letting the impurities settle to the bottom. Then decanting, or pouring the solvent off & putting it in a freeze for at least 24 hours to precipitate the crystals. Then filter the crystals out of the solvent & let the residual solvent evaporate off of them.
Easy as pie...right!😉


WS
 
This occurred after freeze precipitation and evaporation. SWIM had to away for a week, so he left it and hoped it would dry. SWIM will see. Do you think it will dry up? Do you still recommend the same?
 
mushtomb said:
This occurred after freeze precipitation and evaporation. SWIM had to away for a week, so he left it and hoped it would dry. SWIM will see.
Hmmm...OK, then I'm at a loss?

What exactly do you mean by "after freeze precipitation and evaporation"?
There isn't really any evaporation to do if you did a freeze precipitation. Freeze precip would be used instead of evaporation because it is usually much cleaner.
There is usually a bit of residual solvent left on the crystals after filtering them out of the solvent, but that should evap off in just a few minutes.

How did you go about filtering the crystals out of the solvent, after the freeze precip?

mushtomb said:
Do you think it will dry up? Do you still recommend the same?

No idea if it will dry out without actually seeing it, I would just do a re-crystallization with a freeze precip to get the goods out, that way you'll get rid of the left over solvent for sure. Plus your not just waiting around for something that may, or may not end up working.

Make sure to use just enough warm solvent (heated to no more than 130F degrees) to dissolve the DMT/goo that you have there.
Use an eye dropper or something similar to do this, so you don't use too much!! Add only a few drops at a time & stir it around with an unfolded paperclip or something small like that, until it's not dissolving anymore, then add a few more drops etc... Until it is fully dissolved. Then stir it well for a few minutes & let the solids settle to the bottom, this usually takes about a minute.
Make sure everything stays warm during this process, so the alkaloids don't start to crash out of the solvent just yet!! If the liquid starts to look milky, or cloudy it has cooled down too much.

'lil tip:
Keep a cup of hot water close by to use as a "heat-bath" for the process!! When ever you think the solvent in your container is getting too cool, dip the bottom half of the contain into the "heat-bath" & swirl it around for a minute or two, to heat the solvent back up to around 120F degrees.
You can also use the heat bath to help "super-saturate" the solvent with spice, by keeping it as warm as possible throughout this entire process. Because the solvent will hold much more alkaloids when it's warm/hot, than when it is room temp/cool.
Also, if you keep the solvent warm/hot throughout the washing steps, seal it...then let it cool to room temp on a counter top, before putting it into the refrigerator for 12 hours, then into the freezer for 24 hours, you will end up with larger crystals then if the solvent is put directly into the freezer. The slower the alkaloid-saturated solvent cools down, the more time the crystals have to grow together...into larger formations. The faster the solvent is cooled down, the smaller the crystals will be, as the alkaloids are literally squeezed out of the solvent as it contracts from the cold, too fats for the DMT crystals to grow together.

Tip #2:
Pre-heat the 2nd container with the heat-bath before pouring off the alkaloid-saturated solvent into it!!
If the glass is cool, or even room temp, when the warm solvent is poured in, it will quickly cool down & instantly turn cloudy & milky as the warm liquid hits the cooler glass & contracts. It's best to let the solvent cool down slow & naturally, if you are wanting pretty crystals, not powder.
So pre-heat the 2nd container, pour in the warm solvent, seal the top with an airtight lid, or a couple layers of plastic wrap & rubber bands, let it cool to room temp on the counter, etc...


So anyway, The idea of a re-crystallization is to use just enough warm solvent to dissolve the alkaloids, but NOT the impurities!! That way the solids will fall to the bottom & you can easily pour the solvent into a fresh, clean container for the freeze precip.
(make sure to rinse the 1st container with fresh, warm, solvent, to make sure you didn't leave behind anything good!)
Because the solvent is warm & "super-saturated" with alkaloids, as it starts to cool the DMT will squeeze out of the solvent & it will start to look milky etc... So after dissolving the spice into the warm solvent, stirring a bit & letting the impurities settle to the bottom, you have to get the solvent into a clean container pretty quick, before the solvent cools down too much.

If you can, use Heptane (Bestine) for this, but Naptha works too.
BTW, what solvent did you use in the original extraction?


WS
 
Ok. SWIM took the yellowish naptha off the top layer of his MHRB/NaOH/Water/Naptha solution with an eye dropper and stuck it in a very cold basement freezer till crystals formed, he poured off excess naptha back into his jar with MHRB/NaOH/Water/Naptha so he could repeat the process later. After SWIM poured offed the excess naptha, there was a very slight amount of naptha remaining that SWIM allowed to evaporate out so he would be left with DMT crystals.
 
would it be of any benefit to take the goo produced after the freezer precip, acidify it, and run a defat with naptha (or whatever solvent)?

e: i realize the whole point of an STB procedure is to cut out all extraneous steps, but in this case, it might help out a bit. i suppose it's possible there were some unwanted plant materials in the original MHRB powder. did you grind it up yourself, OP?
 
so SWIM was reading:

and he realized that his waxy substance looks almost identical to:
SpicemeisterPdt.jpg


so SWIM guesses he got jungle spice and dmt :)
 
I did my second STB and got barely-off-white salt-like crystals, unlike the first one where I got the slightly yellower waxy crystals.

The only difference between them:

The coffee filter, after freezer precipitating, scrape the crystals *while still in the freezer* and pour into coffee filter, works great!
 
Hi, my first pull of stb after freezing was also white crystals, then others were orange waxy thing like yours... but i have smoked that orange waxy things and it was good.. but yea if you cut it good and let it dry a bit more it may get a bit better after sometime at least less waxy i guess... i dont know about the impurities but if u think the quantity u get worths for purification do an "activated charcoal + IPA" on it to be sure.. however i smoked around 400mg of that orange waxy at total and it didnt bother me.... i just noticed sometimes tears come from my eyes but dunno if related to the impurities or a common effect of dmt, gonna make a thread to ask in a bit :p gud luck!
 
Not sure if I understand the above post, do you mean room temp yields xtal, but FP does not? IME, the first pulls usually yield more xtal and subsequent ones pull some fats and oils along with, yielding waxy or gooey substance. Especially with ACRB. Combining all of the pulls almost always gets what you are talking about. Other than visual appeal or ease in regard to weighing doses, xtal, goo or wax does not typically matter. (as long as all solvent is evapped, etc.)

DMT is polymorphic. Do a forum search and you'll see many treads on the topic. From what you have posted, your results seem normal, if there is such a thing as normal with DMT.

Oh and you don't need to swim.
 
null24 said:
Not sure if I understand the above post, do you mean room temp yields xtal, but FP does not? IME, the first pulls usually yield more xtal and subsequent ones pull some fats and oils along with, yielding waxy or gooey substance. Especially with ACRB. Combining all of the pulls almost always gets what you are talking about. Other than visual appeal or ease in regard to weighing doses, xtal, goo or wax does not typically matter. (as long as all solvent is evapped, etc.)

DMT is polymorphic. Do a forum search and you'll see many treads on the topic. From what you have posted, your results seem normal, if there is such a thing as normal with DMT.

Oh and you don't need to swim.

The whiteness of my a recent extraction prompted Jees to ask what temp my solvent is heated to, stating lower temp can lead to whiter xtals but a smaller yield. I might add that Loveall stated similarly for my most recent extraction shown this thread.

Here is reference to Loveall's Minimum Polymer thread

One love
 
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