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What do you think about MistyLove's "DPTek"?

DesertWasabi

Rising Star
What do you think about the "cold extraction" method used by MistyLove?

From: DpTek - DpTek1 (Video available in the link btw):

DPTek1

Equipment & Ingredients​

  • Powdered root base 75-100g, this tek is designed especially for powdered (See Powdered vs shredded root) How much root is optimum to use?
  • Vinegar, approx 250ml Regular 5% white (i.e. clear). Citric acid crystals can also be used by dissolving approx 30g in 300ml of water. Exact PH is not expected to be critical
  • Water, tap or purified water as preferred. Purified Vs Tap Water For DpTek
  • 180g Salt table salt or 100% NaCl (e.g. aquarium salt) as preferred Why use salt? Is iodised salt OK to use
  • Lye pearls or crystals: 110g (aka sodium hydroxide, caustic soda). How much lye is best to use in this tek? Lye demands serious safety precautions, please familiarise yourself
  • Solvent: approx 400ml, e.g. naphtha (e.g.Clipper, Ronsonal, Azure Naphtha), Petroleum Ether 40/60, Heptane Naphtha vs Pet Ether vs Heptane
  • 2L (or larger) container – e.g. media bottle (called reagent bottle in UK). Preferably heat resistant to allow lye to be added faster without risking heat damage to the glass) Note: Erlenmayer flasks are not recommended ( why not erlenmeyers? )
  • A safe means of thoroughly shaking/mixing the 2L container when containing corrosive lye solution, e.g. a secure stopper/lid, glass stirring rod with paddle (or similar). Magnetic stirrers are not currently recommended. Why are stirring rods preferable to magnetic stirrrers.
  • Pipette, e.g. 10ml glass pippette with rubber bulb. Kitchen turkey basters are not recommended owing to their proneness to dribble during transfer
  • Thermometer (optional but highly desirable), e.g. generic infra red thermometer is ideal
  • Small fan, e.g. usb powered (optional but desirable)
  • Shallow glass dish(es), pie dishes are ideal
  • A few sundry containers, old jars of various sizes, shot glasses etc.
  • Safety equipment, safety goggles, rubber gloves, nearby supply of running fresh water, a tidy, well lit & ventilated work area
  • A good attitude, sufficient time allocated, no disturbances, no rushing, no corner-cutting, prior research, planned breaks

Procedure​


The acidification stage​

Why a complete acidification stage is essential to DpTek1

  1. Place 75g-100g powdered root into a container (e.g. a glass jar) and cover with vinegar or citric acid solution (takes approx 200-300ml depending on the root). Stir until a mud-like paste is achieved.
  2. Freeze/thaw the jar 3 times (is the freeze/thaw worthwhile?). It's done for "cell disruption" purposes as described in this article . Stir well at each thaw adding a little more vinegar to maintain the wet mud texture, then leave the jar at room temperature (not less than about 20°C) for a few hours before re-freezing.

Preparing the water/salt/lye solution​

  1. Dissolve 110g of lye into approx 1.0L water (add lye slowly to the water, stirring or swirling gently throughout). Owing to the large amount of water, heat build up is unlikely to be a problem but still worthy of care, especially with any clumps of lye adhering to the bottom of the containerand causing localised heat spots.
  2. Dissolve 180-200g salt in approx the lye water. Residual heat from lye reaction will speed this. Allow the water/salt/lye to cool to room temperature before proceeding

Adding the bark to the salt/lye solution to make the “soup”​

When the acidified root has thawed from its final freeze, we’re ready to mix with our pre-prepared water/lye/salt solution to make the “soup”

  1. Add the acidified bark to the lye/salt salt water. Swirl/stir to form an even mixture (roughly 1-3 minutes) with a long kitchen knife or similar.
  2. Add more water to bring the fluid level in the flask to a point where it will have sufficient spare capacity to add 130ml of solvent and still a margin to be able to agitate properly when shaken (add hot/cold to bring the final temp to 20°C). Suggest a total level of approx 1.75L in a 2L flask. Some of this added water can be used to rinse remaining traces of acidified bark from its jar before pouring into the soup.
  3. Bring the mix to 20-21°C (using heat baths for this works but can be very time-consuming. Instead consider adding hot/cold water as desired in step 6. above). Adding the ingredients in step 5 appears to raise the temperature, so it may be necessary to cool it. If stronger acid solutions have been used (e.g. by using concentrated citric acid) then the temp rise can be considerable. This important step has a remarkable effect on the levels of impurities/whiteness of the Purity Flakes

“Quick, cool pulls” for a clean product​

What do we mean by quick, cold pulls

  1. Once at 20-21°C, add around 130-150ml of solvent to the soup. Now we need to mix /shake (gentle swirling is insufficent) in the solvent into the soup for approx 40-50 seconds. Be aware that over-vigorous mixing can sometimes cause problems Just how hard do I shake/mix my soup/solvent mix?
One of the following methods can be used depending upon available equipment/preference

  • Seal the 2L container and taking extreme care, shake or otherwise manually agitate (e.g.with stirring rod). If sealed during shaking expect a slight pressure difference (normally a very slight in-rush of air) when removing the stopper/lid.
  • Use your chosen mixing tool thoroughly mix (take care not to over-mix as described above)
  1. Wait for the layers to fully separate (solvent on top), ~3-5 minutes and then carefully pipette solvent into a pie dish. If some soup is inadvertently sucked into the pipette, it can be removed by first squirting the contaminated solvent first into a shot glass where the lye will stick to the insides, and then the clean solvent poured into the dish.

    Note: if the layers didn’t readily separate in step 9, add approx 100ml of water and stir gently with a long kitchen knife or similar, especially at the surface and wait a little longer, Repeat as necessary. If an emulsion (layer of oily bubbles between solvent and soup) is visible when viewed in torch light, adding water also helps with this, but first try gently agitating the surface until eliminated. The commonly-reported tip of adding more salt to has invariably proved to greatly exacerbate the problem for this tek (probably owing to increased viscosity).
  2. Perform the remainder of your pulls (how many pulls are optimum?) immediately one after another (a pull is defined as adding solvent, shaking/mixing, separation, pipetting out). Slightly less solvent may be used after the first (e.g. 80-100ml). The solvent from pulls can be combined in a single dish or kept separate if preferred (All pulls are remarkably clean but the first is often pristine)

Preparing the solvent for freezing​

Can I leave simply the fan blowing over the mix until it all evaporates leaving only spice, thus eliminating the freezer?

  1. In a well ventilated workspace, evaporate the solvent in your dish down with a usb fan or similar blowing gently on the dish until the crystals just are beginning to form on the bottom. Can I place the solvent directly in the freezer without evaporating?
  2. Optionally, when crystals begin to form in the solvent, it can be gently heated (e.g. by covering and placing the dish in a heat bath) to re-dissolve the crystals so that during freezing, they can re-precipitate at the edge of the dish (by placing it at a slight angle). This can result in easier scraping of the Purity Flakes.

Freezing & harvesting the Purity Flakes​

  1. Fit the lid to the dish (or cover with cling film) and place it in the freezer. If the dish is kept at slight angle, the solvent collects on one side and and a thicker layer of crystals will result, facilitating scraping and reducing losses
  2. Leave the dish in the freezer for at least 4 hours and preferably overnight.
  3. Remove and pour off the excess solvent to leave the precipitated crystals. If there are any floating crystals, angle the dish so the solvent collects at one side and carefully pipette away the clear solvent, leaving the crystals behind
  4. Gently fan these wet crystals for a few hours to thoroughly dry, ready for scraping.
  5. If you were careful to perform pulls at 20-21°C then there should be almost no trace of goo. But when scraping, do this very lightly at first and try to cream off the top later. Afterwards you may scrape up right to the glass and evaluate for purity.

Useage of the Purity Flakes From DpTek1​

When dried, the finished Purity Flakes may be added directly to the purificator for testing on standard 30°C laundry washing cycle. 250mg of flakes per 9kg wash should be sufficient to produce desired results, but will be dependent upon garment soiling, fabric types and levels of dissolved calcium salts in the washine machine's source water.


Ps. This TEK is probably impossible to do with Heptane, since one has to warm the mix to be able to pull something.....
 
by the looks of it, it’s a wel explained methodology for extracting dmt and it looks like it’s inspired by the other methods discussed here on the nexus but differs in explicitly not using heat to pull more dmt out of the base soup

Did you do a comparison of yield?
 
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What do you think about the "cold extraction" method used by MistyLove?
I think it's the same tek as majority of A/B teks on nexus. Changing a little temp, gram or millimetre of product isn't what I would call a new tek or even its own tek. We are starting to see a lot of double ups of the same teks with very minor changes on nexus and have for some time.
 
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Ps. This TEK is probably impossible to do with Heptane, since one has to warm the mix to be able to pull something.....

I'd have to disagree with that, having just pulled 1g out of 200g bark using heptane on 1.5l of base soup with no heat yet. I intend to warm it once the pulls aren't yielding much, to see what comes out then.
 
Ps. This TEK is probably impossible to do with Heptane, since one has to warm the mix to be able to pull something.
I'd have to disagree with that, having just pulled 1g out of 200g bark using heptane on 1.5l of base soup with no heat yet. I intend to warm it once the pulls aren't yielding much, to see what comes out then.
So, CP stands for "cold pulls" rather than "copy-paste" - I see!

It may be a valid observation that less goo/polymer is produced at lower temperatures but that doesn't mean that room temperature heptane (which I wouldn't call 'cold', by the way) won't pull anything. You may have to do an extra pull or two to get everything, but it's not like you're using fridge-temperature cold solvent where DMT's solubility would be significantly lower.

Running Cyb's salt tek at a lower temperature doesn't really warrant claiming it as your own, imho. If there is some specific data on the variation of product appearance relating to extraction temperature it would be great to see it here, but I'm personally not willing to click through a bunch of google links in order to find it. I do think it's great that this individual went to the trouble of doing that bit of research. It would be even more great if they could share it here since the foundations of it were developed here.

btw, is this minty love, rather than misty love?
Have a read of this and be satisfied that we have the Nexus attitude ;)

Misty Love is a singer (not to be confused with Misti Love, btw…)
 
I had better yeilds than stb and max ion on same batch. Really clean xtals and no goo. Much quicker and as described in the video a third pull produces nothing, tested this twice. I actually enjoyed following this tek. For me Id rather extract on lower soup volume so i'm going to remove the solids and evap the soup down.
 
At the DMT-Nexus, we celebrate every improvement and new piece of data as vital contributions to our collective knowledge. Our community ethos, encapsulated in our slogan 'Learn, Share, Expand,' drives us to share openly and collaborate broadly.

However, we at the DMT-Nexus occasionally feel frustrated because many of these 'new' techniques are rooted in methods that, while not all originally developed here, were significantly enhanced and rigorously validated on our platform.

Our research is a collaborative endeavor that brought together experts from many fields dedicated to sharing their extensive, accumulated knowledge. These projects were driven by a commitment to the responsible use of DMT and other entheogens, with health and safety as our top priority.

Therefore, it would be just and fair for tek-developers to recognize the DMT-Nexus as foundational to their advancements. We would greatly appreciate it if these individuals also engaged with our platform to discuss their findings. There are always opportunities for further improvement and optimization, and the DMT-Nexus is eager to assist in this ongoing journey of discovery and development.

So please leverage our collective expertise to achieve more than any of us could achieve individually. For instance, we are currently conducting research on this platform to better understand and address the polymer formation of DMT. We achieve this by extensively sharing data from our efforts, enhancing both our knowledge and methodologies.


So to summarize:

The DMT-Nexus emphasizes the importance of acknowledging and building upon previous work in the development of new techniques ("teks") for using DMT and other entheogens. While the community values the introduction of new data and improvements, there is a call for recognition of the foundational contributions made by our platform.

The DMT-Nexus advocates for continuous improvement and optimization of these techniques and encourages active participation and discussion within our community to leverage collective knowledge for greater advancements.


Kind regards,

The Traveler
 
Hey. I started my (DMT) journey on Mintys server.
I learned my first extractions from there.
Actually the COLD (21C) PULLs are the co-creation of few members of the forum.

Yes i using and if you follow the recipe you usually end with nice white crystals.
the main "idea" that is behind this tek is to use it for white crystals for the e-juice method, which as Minty says, you do not need to filter the juice and there is no clogging problem.

BTW. The freeze/thaw cycles can be omited, and just simple acid soak over 24H is enough. For me at least.

Of course if you are interested in more "full spectrum" extraction for other forms of administartion, then its not the one to use.
Also as someone mentioned before the attitude of this guy is terrible, and i am glad to join nexus and learn more, from more openminded colaborative folks here.
 
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Well, props to the guys on Minty's server for doing their background reading:
Kinda leaves me weighing up the merits of "Publish or Perish" vs. "Originality is the art of concealing one's sources".
 
Hey. I started my (DMT) journey on Mintys server.
I learned my first extractions from there.
Actually the COLD (21C) PULLs are the co-creation of few members of the forum.

Yes i using and if you follow the recipe you usually end with nice white crystals.
the main "idea" that is behind this tek is to use it for white crystals for the e-juice method, which as Minty says, you do not need to filter the juice and there is no clogging problem.

BTW. The freeze/thaw cycles can be omited, and just simple acid soak over 24H is enough. For me at least.

Of course if you are interested in more "full spectrum" extraction for other forms of administartion, then its not the one to use.
Also as someone mentioned before the attitude of this guy is terrible, and i am glad to join nexus and learn more, from more openminded colaborative folks here.
I got some push back simply for inquiring from anyone on the server about pointing me in the direction for coils or wire without sourcing from Wish, Aliexpress, Temu etc. lol
 
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