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Acacia acuminata / obtusifolia / courtii phyllode use and culture

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grollum

grollum

Rising Star
Hey there,

I like to start my appearance in the nexus with a question about the use of acacia leaves.
Especially the leaves of Acacia Acuminata.

The info which i found is that the leaves might contain up to 1% of DMT and not many other tryptamines and chemicals.

So in my eyes this makes the acuminata leaves some of the best sources for DMT.

No need to harvest any roots.

Does someone of you guys here has any experience with the use of acuminata in a brew or with a simple "full spectrum" extract?

Cheers,
Grollum
 
Hey there,

I read that thread which ended really optimistic concerning analytic results.
But I am missing some real experiences of people who might have used it in a brew or smoked it.

It might also be an important information to spread, to save some acacia species from getting killed because people are smoking their roots. (I am not sure how dicey the situation actually really is).
 
Your concerns are indeed valid. Use of phyllodes is substantially preferable to taking roots or trunk bark. Are you growing A. acuminata for yourself?
 
A friend of mine is waiting for seeds and wants to try it. Since he is not living in the Australian climate he hopes it will work as potted plant. What we have heard so far it should not be a problem since this acacia should be quite robust.
 
Hey Ulim,

thanks for the hint. I read about the scarification. Funny that you need to pour boiling water above the seeds to prepare them. Thanks for the picture. Should i also scratch?
 
grollum said:
Hey Ulim,

thanks for the hint. I read about the scarification. Funny that you need to pour boiling water above the seeds to prepare them. Thanks for the picture.
Click to expand...

Use 100 grit sandpaper to scarify.

Grind the edge of the seed on the sandpaper lightly, until you can see the white cotyledon (flesh) just peaking through.

Using very hot but not boiling water, submerge the seeds in a small shallow GLASS dish. Place the dish on electronics that will keep the dish warm, such as a cable box.

Let sit for 12-18 hours, then remove seeds and plant as deep as it is long.




I have had 100% germination with all acacia species i have tried this on, and experienced a significant drop in germination rates when using scarification with boiling water.

My assumption is boiling water is only necessary if you do not remove the seed coat via scarification, and can actually do more damage if the seeds are pre-scarified before applying boiling water.

My recommendation is either use scarification with a lower heat water, or just use boiling water. For both techniques, leaving the seeds to soak on warm electronics is recommended.
 
Use 100 grit sandpaper to scarify.

Grind the edge of the seed on the sandpaper lightly, until you can see the white cotyledon (flesh) just peaking through.

Using very hot but not boiling water, submerge the seeds in a small shallow GLASS dish. Place the dish on electronics that will keep the dish warm, such as a cable box.

Let sit for 12-18 hours, then remove seeds and plant as deep as it is long.




I have had 100% germination with all acacia species i have tried this on, and experienced a significant drop in germination rates when using scarification with boiling water.

My assumption is boiling water is only necessary if you do not remove the seed coat via scarification, and can actually do more damage if the seeds are pre-scarified before applying boiling water.

My recommendation is either use scarification with a lower heat water, or just use boiling water. For both techniques, leaving the seeds to soak on warm electronics is recommended.
Click to expand...

Thanks for intrusting your experience to us. That is good to know. On which species did you try this on? Or are they all similar? Hot but not boiling means like 80°C like for a green tea for example?
 
What I do is boil water in a watercooker/kettle. When it boils turn off wait 10 secs then pour over the unscarred seeds. Wait 1 day keeping them warm then take the ones that swollen and plant. Repeat on the rest once then plant.
 
Acuminata requires patience also. It could take upwards of 2 years to gather enough phyllodes for an extraction. The beauty of this particular tree is that as it matures it naturally drops its lower phyllodes which you can collect and store in a dark, dry place.
 
Koornut said:
Acuminata requires patience also. It could take upwards of 2 years to gather enough phyllodes for an extraction. The beauty of this particular tree is that as it matures it naturally drops its lower phyllodes which you can collect and store in a dark, dry place.
Click to expand...

2 years is acceptable. If it grows older and bigger maybe the self dropping is even enough to make an extract from time to time?

Did you try to make a brew with it also?
 
By the way. My friend also is waiting for some Acacia obtusifolia seeds. I think the same scarification is used for them?
 
Acacia obtusifolia seeds arrived and got soaked in hot water. Some needed a second dive. After they swelled more or less they got potted in small pots with a soil mix out of 3 parts sand and one part vermiculite.
 
grollum said:
Use 100 grit sandpaper to scarify.

Grind the edge of the seed on the sandpaper lightly, until you can see the white cotyledon (flesh) just peaking through.

Using very hot but not boiling water, submerge the seeds in a small shallow GLASS dish. Place the dish on electronics that will keep the dish warm, such as a cable box.

Let sit for 12-18 hours, then remove seeds and plant as deep as it is long.




I have had 100% germination with all acacia species i have tried this on, and experienced a significant drop in germination rates when using scarification with boiling water.

My assumption is boiling water is only necessary if you do not remove the seed coat via scarification, and can actually do more damage if the seeds are pre-scarified before applying boiling water.

My recommendation is either use scarification with a lower heat water, or just use boiling water. For both techniques, leaving the seeds to soak on warm electronics is recommended.
Click to expand...

Thanks for intrusting your experience to us. That is good to know. On which species did you try this on? Or are they all similar? Hot but not boiling means like 80°C like for a green tea for example?
Click to expand...


Used this technique on confusa, simplex, obustifolia and acuminata, all with 100% success rate.

Not sure about C, but i would say the water i use is about 150-200F
 
Grollum, I did my introduction thread on acuminata written a couple of days ago :)

I REALLY look forward to using the narrow leaf, there's a lot of people using the narrow leaf to get really nice product and great yields, and its so easy just to grab the leaves from a tree with minimal impact!

The broad leaf has only about a 1/3 of the content of DMT but has some really nice effects, I'm guessing from some of the other alkaloids that got pulled.. I've been really surprised about the difference and from the 2 tests I actually prefer the broad leaf feelings.. the only down side is the amount needed.. but I haven't done a re-xtal to try and purify which may possibly help (or maybe it will remove that stuff that gives me those nice auditory and body feelings)

Its a great plant and it's so cool you can just gather the leaves and not strip bark and kill your tree!
 
grollum said:
Grollum, I did my introduction thread on acuminata written a couple of days ago Smile
Click to expand...

here is a direct link:
The Acuminata Blissful Gift of Goo - Introduction Essay - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

I read your essay and it was very helpful and promising. Thanks for writing it!
I really love the idea that the phyllodes are all you need. Even if you need some more...
Click to expand...


May I ask how much plant material you used for the extraction? You are writing about a handful phyllodes and branches. Did you weigh it?
 
Hey Grollum,

I'd hate for anyone to use my extraction as a basis for future extractions for several reasons

1. The broad leaf variety was used that has only around 1/3 of the DMT of the narrow leaf
2. The season the leaves and stems were picked is apparently the WORSE time - winter with buds/flowers growing - apparently the DMT content is lowest at this time as the plant is putting energy into the flowers - summer is meant to have a much higher content

3. It's the first tek ever done and there are many potential issues (no PH tests done, suspect to much heat may have been used, material was not dried so weight could vary a lot
4. I did not re-xtal (I did put some in naphtha and there was material that didn't dissolve so my yield may be maybe 20% higher than it would with a re-xtal to further purify)

I didn't weigh everything either.. There was around 80g stem/leaves (fresh) and I got around 1.5g of goo which I'm happy with as it was a 1st experiment and I was happy to get anything :)

I really look forward to working with this plant further - the narrow leaf variety especially as the content is SUPER high but I would also like to do some more broad leaf trials as there is something unique and special (that I have no idea what it is, but it is different in a very nice way)
 
:) thanks for the infos.

where did you get the broad vs. narrow phyllode content difference info from? is it in the analysis thread?

I just wanted a rough info on how much material is needed to get something active. just for my imagination ;)
 
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