Acacia Extraction Workspace

[DreaMTripper]

Yeah limo is non polar, joshisoms Tek is very similar to BLAB. Freeze precip is quite safe and clean if you dry the extract thoroughly afterwards. To get the cleanest extract precipitate them slowly.
First in room temp then in fridge then in the freezer. Plenty of info around as to how to do it best.

 

[kendo]

:thumb_up:

 

[Tosee]

Magnificent

 

[acacian]

2 separate tests on a. floribunda in the new england area (heading in the direction of grafton) were done by a friend recently and both yielded an alkaloid psychoactive and "tryptamine-like" in effects.. but seemingly no DMT present (or if present in very small amounts)

.. bioassay of around 60-100mg (dont have scales) has yielded odd physical effects.. an initial "fast flickering kind of burning effect in the temple region of the head" which quickly wore off and transitioned into a mild "stoning effect" with a constant "hissing" percieved in my head.. a few experiences where I've taken a large doses consecutively have actually resulted in some very mild psychedelic effects .. mild trails.. and blue coloured pixels with the eyes closed too which was interesting as I remember nen mentioning that effect on a write up on nmt bioassay..

interesting extract.. floribunda so far in this area seems lacking in dmt.. but a good ally for meditation. I remember Seldom saying a while back that he thought the ones around here were a "red herring".. so maybe the ones in this area don't have dmt

much differen't extract to the ones I tested down in less urbanised areas of victoria which yielded a potent extract..

 

[DreaMTripper]

Just wanted to encourage more research into acacia sophorae, absolutely loads of it around on the East coast of Australia, so much its classifies as a weed.
I'm not too sure what it's preference/tolerance for saline soils would mean..

 

[twitchy]

the Simple PHYLLODE TEK

this is presented in the interests of sustainability (because of the damage done to trees for their bark), and for those who are growing acacias and want them to live long and happy lives..


essentially, a few reported findings of low percentages of alkaloids in phyllodes in the past (by Mulga and others) and phyllode extraction failures are probably due to failure on Step 1 of this procedure

1. Thoroughly DRY the phyllodes, by sun. fan or oven. What will interfere with extraction is chlorophyll and volatile fatty acids.
2. Chop or grind by hand, blender etc.
3. Cover in mixture 50/50 distilled water and white vinegar, and boil vigorously for 30-40 minutes. Save liquid and repeat this another 2-3 times. Combine the 3-4 liquid fractions, filter judiciously, reduce volume by boiling till slightly thick, leave to sit overnight.
4. Very gradually add NaOH. The solution will first become cloudy, then dark again. Do not go far beyond this point. In other words, do not overbasify. The pH should be between 11-12.5 ideally, if a pH meter is available. Also add a small amount of fairly pure sodium chloride (salt). Allow to cool.
5. Add an equal volume of clean (100%) non-polar solvent (naptha, limonine etc) and shake vigorously for several minutes. Allow to settle into two layers, sometimes a few hours. If does not properly separate add small amounts of NaOH to break emulsion. Separate solvent and wash by adding salty water/NaOH. Separate again, and evaporate solvent. And then be very patient. A few days if necessary. Resulting solid, wax or oil is the crude alkaloids, usable.

and that’s all that’s required, it need not be any more complicated than this..do not substitute other acids or bases unless you are well experienced in extraction, and willing to experiment..just pay attention the whole time

if someone can’t follow this procedure, they should not be doing extractions..
.

Acacias can respond well to careful and sensitive pruning, so the gardner can enjoy their long grown trees, and their inner joy.

I cringe everytime I see one of those 'I found an acacia tree' posts or threads... I was glad to see this post, there's so many horror stories of rare and protected species of Acacias being basically stripped of bark and left to die. It reminded me of what happened to Buffalo in the US in the late 1800's. They are beautiful trees, can be overwintered in a sunny window if you are outside of their habitat, and don't mind pruning at all in my experience. I don't have much to add to this thread, but wanted to bump that post in particular as it is indeed a great stride towards sustainability. Madenii and accuminata are the two most discussed phyllode sources, but I've heard of several others as well... would be great to see a list of Acacia spp. with active phyllodes only. I've also seen burkittii mentioned in this context, don't know about simplex but they taste bitter and the stems are supposed to be one of the most potent of the genus.
I also read that maidenii are frost tolerant... a plague on whoever put that on the internet, I lost three of them one year to an early frost I thought they would survive LOL

 

[Chimp Z]

I took a look at 15 Acacia species' extracts and the only one that glowed in blacklight was A. Longifolia.
I wonder if that's just random or maybe indicating harmala alkaloids?

 

[JefFlux]

Just came across this thread again and remembered how incredibly exciting it was to first read this several years ago. For that reason I thought I'd add my Invocacia method as it has proven to be very reliable over time and was designed for use with phyllodes and to be relatively easy to digest.

Also curious about the last method nen888 posted that called for 'vigorous boiling' as I've come to understand that excess heat in the acidic stage produces more oily results and your previous teks all called for 'simmering'.

The Invocacia Method by Flux

* 200g dried Acacia phyllodes and/or small (1-2mm) twigs are shredded to powder in a grinder and frozen overnight - thaw/freeze/thaw up to 3 times to ensure adequate lysing of cells.

* Thawed powder is bought to a gentle simmer/minimal bubbling boil for 1 hr and 30 minutes in 1.5 litres of acidic water @ pH 3.5 by dissolving 1 teaspoon of 100 percent ascorbic or citric acid powder into 1 litre of spring water - (in some cases more citric acid may be needed to counter the alkalinity of tannins in the plant matter).

* After the 1st boil, collect the liquid by straining contents of pot though fine fabric like muslin or cheesecloth (or even an old t-shirt, Chux cloth) into a second pot removing as much plant matter as possible and leaving it in the first pot.

* Repeat this simmering process 3-4 times, filtering the liquid each time and collecting this in the second pot until the second pot has the filtered results of all 3-4 boils. The plant matter can be discarded at this point.

* In this second pot, reduce down the results of these 3-4 collected boils until the resulting overall liquid volume (initially approx. 4.5-6 litres) is reduced down to about 1.5 litres.

* This resulting acacia tea is left to sit for 20 minutes to cool and then placed in a thick glass jar (2 to 2.5 litres is adequate) with tight sealable lid...taller is better. Leaving the acidic acacia tea for several hours or overnight however, will allow for fine particle sediment to drop to the bottom which can be filtered out when transferring vessel: this will reduce the potential for emulsions to form later).

* This is the stage where some may wish to add NaCl (Non-iodised Table Salt) to potentially reduce emulsions later. Dissolve 3-40g of Non-iodised table salt to 150ml of hot water and dissolve completely (some boiling maybe required to achieve this). When this solution has cooled, add it to the reduced acidic acacia tea.

* In a Pyrex measuring cup, take 100gm of Caustic Soda/Lye (98 % or higher Sodium Hydroxide) and slowly add to 200ml of spring water (one teaspoon at a time) stirring until fully dissolved. Do NOT breath the fumes or DO wear a protective mask. When fully dissolved, measure the pH with a digital pH meter (or pH strips) and it should read a pH of roughly 12.5 or higher. Pour this alkaline solution into the acacia tea in the thick glass jar, stirring with a wooden spoon or stick. The acacia tea will turn from brownish red to grey and then to black quite quickly (it can take a little more time with phyllodes of more fatty acacias). It is also a good idea to let the caustic solution cool completely before adding to acacia tea (this can take at least an hour or two).

* Once acacia tea is basified (made alkaline), check the overall pH of the tea as it may now be lower than 12.5 due to initial acidity of the acacia tea. If this is the case simply dissolve another 30g or so of Caustic Soda in 50ml of spring water and add until pH reaches 12.5. Wearing protective eyewear and gloves is a advised here as Caustic Soda is dangerous on the skin. It can be a good idea to now let the basified tea sit until completely cool.

* Measure 100-150ml (roughly 105 of overall volume) of Shellite in a Pyrex cup (NOT plastic) and add this to the now basified acacia tea and agitate the mix very gently for 5 minutes. Agitation can be done by closing the lid of the jar (using a black garbage bag liner under the lid as an extra seal) and turning the jar slowly end to end (in a rolling manner similar to bicycle pedals). BUT: initially, be sure to release pressure after every turn until no more pressure sounds (fizzing) are heard. For the first pull the solvent can also be stirred into the basified tea to avoid this pressure build up – and to ensure solvent and base solution do not emulsify together.

* After stirring or gently rocking basified tea and Shellite for 1-2 minutes, let the layers (Shellite and basified tea) separate fully and sit for 10-15 minutes. Repeat this process 4-5 times and after the last agitation, let the mix sit for a good 60 minutes before proceeding to next stage.

* Now the Shellite solvent layer will be sitting clearly on top of the basified phyllode tea and can be removed or ‘pulled’ using a glass turkey baster. The Shellite only results are then squirted gently onto a plate (TAKE GREAT CARE to only remove the clear solvent layer and to not get any black basified tea in the collection). If you notice any basified tea getting into the baster as you are drawing it up, simply pour into a shot glass allowing the solvent layer to re-separate leaving any residues of base you may have accidentally caught on the bottom. Let these small volumes settle and removing just the Shellite again from the shot glass with an eye-dropper.

* Once first pull of 150ml Shellite is collected on the plate leave, this to evaporate overnight in low light, dry area (fanning the plate can be used to speed this up). The last few millimetres of Shellite are hard to pull out so don’t worry about capturing this until the very last pull. When the Shellite is collected on the plate, you might observe that when you blow on it gently (or when the fan starts); milky white clouds will appear where air hits the DMT saturated Shellite - this is DMT being revealed in the solvent!

* After all the Shellite has evaporated off the plate and cannot be smelt (a clear DMT smell is likely present instead), using a flexible razor blade, scrape the remaining layer up and leave to dry further. Final results on the plate will yield either crystals, a sand-like product or a resinous honey like wax – or variation thereof.

* After collecting on the plate, add a new lot of 150ml Shellite to the basified acacia tea again and repeat the agitation/separation process. This can sometimes mean doing 5-6 phases of agitation and Shellite collection -until the no more results are can be scraped up from the plate after the Shellite is evaporated.


Safe & Scintillating travels - Flux

 

[Mikrotripper]

Hi all,

After acacian’s recommendation, I’m writing here to share my first attempt at extracting from Acacia Retinodes.

They seem to be quite common where I live, but please note that I have identified them via an app, which I understand is not 100% accurate. For instance I identified one today which was starting to flower and it showed up as Acacia pycnantha. So I’m not entirely sure which one I did the test from. I’ll attach a couple of photos, hopefully your experience can clear things up!

So I got some twigs and leaves, oven dried them and then ground them up in a coffee grinder. The total was much less than I aimed for, but I did the test anyway. I had 35g of twigs and 15d of leaves. Not a lot I know, but I didn’t get a single crystal out of it.

The tek I used is the same room temp tek I did with MHRB and worked fine, but I have no idea if that wouldn’t work with Acacia, I’m pretty new to this, only have 3 extractions under my belt.

So I guess my questions are:
- Do I have the correct tree?
- Which parts of the tree should I aim for?
- Is there a specific tek for Acacias?
Thanks!

 

[acacian]

To begin with the amount of material you used even with a high yielding tree won't yield much. Twig and phyllode should be fine but you didn't use anywhere near enough.. remember 35g of twigs contains the wood as well.. so that takes even more off the amount you were using when you remember only some of that is twig bark. I'd start with like 150-200g.

It looks a lot like retinodes, but as I said I find the differences between it and provincialis very difficult to tell.

Could you share your extraction method in writing? That video is half an hr long.. but from what I saw that person is doing an STB tek which isn't generally found to work well with acacia. A/B recommended.

Also don't expect to get crystals all the time either.. Acacia often contains other alkaloids and can come out as more of an oil

the 'nen method' should work fine:

1) grind phyllodes/small twigs in a coffee grinder or with mortar and pestle as fine as possible
2) soak overnight in mixture of ethanol/vodka/methylated spirits plus white vinegar and water
3) heat/boil liquid & plant material for approx 45 minutes..keep liquid..add fresh liquid and repeat X 2 (45 min boiling)
4) combine liquids and reduce volume by heating..at various stages here is when as much filtering as possible should be done..e.g. coffee filters (can be slow); reduce volume of liquid as much as possible, i.e until slightly thick..4B) defat x1 with NP solvent - optional
5) very slowly and carefully add casutic soda or pure ammonium until pH between 11-12.5
6) add equal amount of non polar solvent, and separate (optional wash with salty H20+NaOH)..evaporate slow

 

[Mikrotripper]

To begin with the amount of material you used even with a high yielding tree won't yield much. Twig and phyllode should be fine but you didn't use anywhere near enough.. remember 35g of twigs contains the wood as well.. so that takes even more off the amount you were using when you remember only some of that is twig bark. I'd start with like 150-200g.

It looks a lot like retinodes, but as I said I find the differences between it and provincialis very difficult to tell.

Could you share your extraction method in writing? That video is half an hr long.. but from what I saw that person is doing an STB tek which isn't generally found to work well with acacia. A/B recommended.

Also don't expect to get crystals all the time either.. Acacia often contains other alkaloids and can come out as more of an oil

the 'nen method' should work fine:

When I was gathering the material, I didn't take into consideration that I would be drying it so the weight would drastically decrease...

The extraction method I used in a nutshell:

As a first timer, this room temp tek seemed like the most straightforward and doable for me. I got roughly 2.5g of spice out of 250g of MHRB. I definitely wasted a bit as a noob though, I'm sure I can get a bit more out of it next time.

- Slowly add 100g Lye in 750ml distlled water, mix/stir well and let it cool to room temp.
- Add 100g MHRB. Stir for 2-3 mins, let it sit for 15 mins. Repeat 4-6 times.
- Add 150ml Naphtha. Again stir for 2-3 mins and let it sit for 2-4 HRS. Repeat 2-4 times.
- Extract top naphtha layer with pipette into glass container, put in freezer for 12-24 HRS.
- Crystals should now have formed on the base of glass container. Drain out the naphta, let the rest evaporate completely, scrape up your crystals!

I will look into the nen method as per your suggestion, do you have a link to a detailed explanation of that tek?

Also, what sort of twigs should I be aiming at i.e. would really dry ones from a dead tree work better that young ones?

 

[acacian]

The description is in my post in the quoted part. See above.

Its not that STB won't work.. I'm sure sometimes it will.. just that more that people tend to find A/B more effective. There's over 900 species of acacia in Australia.. the chemistry will be variable. Its good to get to grips with a basic standard of chemistry behind alkaloid extraction. Particularly with Oz Acacia there is a level of nuance that requires this..

 

[Louie]

Hi guys, Ive only just found this forum recently and before I did I done an extraction on some root (Acasia Acuminata)
purchased on line here in Australia and used a method on Tiktock, lye water root bark and naphtha or shelite and freezer precipitation . I had some success I think as I produced some yellow waxy material that when taken using a $12 coil wax pen from Temu I think I was very close to breaking through amazing experience. On my property I have a couple of Acacia macradenia growing and upon inspection of the trees a large branch had broken off one . I did some investigation and could only find one reference that it may contain tryptamines, so using the say extraction process I ground some dried trunk bark and had what seems similar results in every respect as with Acuminata. the smoke isn't harsh at all. I know that extraction process isn't recommended and the open coil vape either, about to order a Yocan orbit after some research on here. Just thought someone may get some usfull info from this about using Acasia Macradena cheers

 

[MindRocket]

Just came across this thread again and remembered how incredibly exciting it was to first read this several years ago. For that reason I thought I'd add my Invocacia method as it has proven to be very reliable over time and was designed for use with phyllodes and to be relatively easy to digest.

Also curious about the last method nen888 posted that called for 'vigorous boiling' as I've come to understand that excess heat in the acidic stage produces more oily results and your previous teks all called for 'simmering'.

The Invocacia Method by Flux

* 200g dried Acacia phyllodes and/or small (1-2mm) twigs are shredded to powder in a grinder and frozen overnight - thaw/freeze/thaw up to 3 times to ensure adequate lysing of cells.

* Thawed powder is bought to a gentle simmer/minimal bubbling boil for 1 hr and 30 minutes in 1.5 litres of acidic water @ pH 3.5 by dissolving 1 teaspoon of 100 percent ascorbic or citric acid powder into 1 litre of spring water - (in some cases more citric acid may be needed to counter the alkalinity of tannins in the plant matter).

* After the 1st boil, collect the liquid by straining contents of pot though fine fabric like muslin or cheesecloth (or even an old t-shirt, Chux cloth) into a second pot removing as much plant matter as possible and leaving it in the first pot.

* Repeat this simmering process 3-4 times, filtering the liquid each time and collecting this in the second pot until the second pot has the filtered results of all 3-4 boils. The plant matter can be discarded at this point.

* In this second pot, reduce down the results of these 3-4 collected boils until the resulting overall liquid volume (initially approx. 4.5-6 litres) is reduced down to about 1.5 litres.

* This resulting acacia tea is left to sit for 20 minutes to cool and then placed in a thick glass jar (2 to 2.5 litres is adequate) with tight sealable lid...taller is better. Leaving the acidic acacia tea for several hours or overnight however, will allow for fine particle sediment to drop to the bottom which can be filtered out when transferring vessel: this will reduce the potential for emulsions to form later).

* This is the stage where some may wish to add NaCl (Non-iodised Table Salt) to potentially reduce emulsions later. Dissolve 3-40g of Non-iodised table salt to 150ml of hot water and dissolve completely (some boiling maybe required to achieve this). When this solution has cooled, add it to the reduced acidic acacia tea.

* In a Pyrex measuring cup, take 100gm of Caustic Soda/Lye (98 % or higher Sodium Hydroxide) and slowly add to 200ml of spring water (one teaspoon at a time) stirring until fully dissolved. Do NOT breath the fumes or DO wear a protective mask. When fully dissolved, measure the pH with a digital pH meter (or pH strips) and it should read a pH of roughly 12.5 or higher. Pour this alkaline solution into the acacia tea in the thick glass jar, stirring with a wooden spoon or stick. The acacia tea will turn from brownish red to grey and then to black quite quickly (it can take a little more time with phyllodes of more fatty acacias). It is also a good idea to let the caustic solution cool completely before adding to acacia tea (this can take at least an hour or two).

* Once acacia tea is basified (made alkaline), check the overall pH of the tea as it may now be lower than 12.5 due to initial acidity of the acacia tea. If this is the case simply dissolve another 30g or so of Caustic Soda in 50ml of spring water and add until pH reaches 12.5. Wearing protective eyewear and gloves is a advised here as Caustic Soda is dangerous on the skin. It can be a good idea to now let the basified tea sit until completely cool.

* Measure 100-150ml (roughly 105 of overall volume) of Shellite in a Pyrex cup (NOT plastic) and add this to the now basified acacia tea and agitate the mix very gently for 5 minutes. Agitation can be done by closing the lid of the jar (using a black garbage bag liner under the lid as an extra seal) and turning the jar slowly end to end (in a rolling manner similar to bicycle pedals). BUT: initially, be sure to release pressure after every turn until no more pressure sounds (fizzing) are heard. For the first pull the solvent can also be stirred into the basified tea to avoid this pressure build up – and to ensure solvent and base solution do not emulsify together.

* After stirring or gently rocking basified tea and Shellite for 1-2 minutes, let the layers (Shellite and basified tea) separate fully and sit for 10-15 minutes. Repeat this process 4-5 times and after the last agitation, let the mix sit for a good 60 minutes before proceeding to next stage.

* Now the Shellite solvent layer will be sitting clearly on top of the basified phyllode tea and can be removed or ‘pulled’ using a glass turkey baster. The Shellite only results are then squirted gently onto a plate (TAKE GREAT CARE to only remove the clear solvent layer and to not get any black basified tea in the collection). If you notice any basified tea getting into the baster as you are drawing it up, simply pour into a shot glass allowing the solvent layer to re-separate leaving any residues of base you may have accidentally caught on the bottom. Let these small volumes settle and removing just the Shellite again from the shot glass with an eye-dropper.

* Once first pull of 150ml Shellite is collected on the plate leave, this to evaporate overnight in low light, dry area (fanning the plate can be used to speed this up). The last few millimetres of Shellite are hard to pull out so don’t worry about capturing this until the very last pull. When the Shellite is collected on the plate, you might observe that when you blow on it gently (or when the fan starts); milky white clouds will appear where air hits the DMT saturated Shellite - this is DMT being revealed in the solvent!

* After all the Shellite has evaporated off the plate and cannot be smelt (a clear DMT smell is likely present instead), using a flexible razor blade, scrape the remaining layer up and leave to dry further. Final results on the plate will yield either crystals, a sand-like product or a resinous honey like wax – or variation thereof.

* After collecting on the plate, add a new lot of 150ml Shellite to the basified acacia tea again and repeat the agitation/separation process. This can sometimes mean doing 5-6 phases of agitation and Shellite collection -until the no more results are can be scraped up from the plate after the Shellite is evaporated.


Safe & Scintillating travels - Flux

Your last 3 steps are incorrect AND assuredly result in a dangerous end product.

Just came across this thread again and remembered how incredibly exciting it was to first read this several years ago. For that reason I thought I'd add my Invocacia method as it has proven to be very reliable over time and was designed for use with phyllodes and to be relatively easy to digest.

Also curious about the last method nen888 posted that called for 'vigorous boiling' as I've come to understand that excess heat in the acidic stage produces more oily results and your previous teks all called for 'simmering'.

The Invocacia Method by Flux

* 200g dried Acacia phyllodes and/or small (1-2mm) twigs are shredded to powder in a grinder and frozen overnight - thaw/freeze/thaw up to 3 times to ensure adequate lysing of cells.

* Thawed powder is bought to a gentle simmer/minimal bubbling boil for 1 hr and 30 minutes in 1.5 litres of acidic water @ pH 3.5 by dissolving 1 teaspoon of 100 percent ascorbic or citric acid powder into 1 litre of spring water - (in some cases more citric acid may be needed to counter the alkalinity of tannins in the plant matter).

* After the 1st boil, collect the liquid by straining contents of pot though fine fabric like muslin or cheesecloth (or even an old t-shirt, Chux cloth) into a second pot removing as much plant matter as possible and leaving it in the first pot.

* Repeat this simmering process 3-4 times, filtering the liquid each time and collecting this in the second pot until the second pot has the filtered results of all 3-4 boils. The plant matter can be discarded at this point.

* In this second pot, reduce down the results of these 3-4 collected boils until the resulting overall liquid volume (initially approx. 4.5-6 litres) is reduced down to about 1.5 litres.

* This resulting acacia tea is left to sit for 20 minutes to cool and then placed in a thick glass jar (2 to 2.5 litres is adequate) with tight sealable lid...taller is better. Leaving the acidic acacia tea for several hours or overnight however, will allow for fine particle sediment to drop to the bottom which can be filtered out when transferring vessel: this will reduce the potential for emulsions to form later).

* This is the stage where some may wish to add NaCl (Non-iodised Table Salt) to potentially reduce emulsions later. Dissolve 3-40g of Non-iodised table salt to 150ml of hot water and dissolve completely (some boiling maybe required to achieve this). When this solution has cooled, add it to the reduced acidic acacia tea.

* In a Pyrex measuring cup, take 100gm of Caustic Soda/Lye (98 % or higher Sodium Hydroxide) and slowly add to 200ml of spring water (one teaspoon at a time) stirring until fully dissolved. Do NOT breath the fumes or DO wear a protective mask. When fully dissolved, measure the pH with a digital pH meter (or pH strips) and it should read a pH of roughly 12.5 or higher. Pour this alkaline solution into the acacia tea in the thick glass jar, stirring with a wooden spoon or stick. The acacia tea will turn from brownish red to grey and then to black quite quickly (it can take a little more time with phyllodes of more fatty acacias). It is also a good idea to let the caustic solution cool completely before adding to acacia tea (this can take at least an hour or two).

* Once acacia tea is basified (made alkaline), check the overall pH of the tea as it may now be lower than 12.5 due to initial acidity of the acacia tea. If this is the case simply dissolve another 30g or so of Caustic Soda in 50ml of spring water and add until pH reaches 12.5. Wearing protective eyewear and gloves is a advised here as Caustic Soda is dangerous on the skin. It can be a good idea to now let the basified tea sit until completely cool.

* Measure 100-150ml (roughly 105 of overall volume) of Shellite in a Pyrex cup (NOT plastic) and add this to the now basified acacia tea and agitate the mix very gently for 5 minutes. Agitation can be done by closing the lid of the jar (using a black garbage bag liner under the lid as an extra seal) and turning the jar slowly end to end (in a rolling manner similar to bicycle pedals). BUT: initially, be sure to release pressure after every turn until no more pressure sounds (fizzing) are heard. For the first pull the solvent can also be stirred into the basified tea to avoid this pressure build up – and to ensure solvent and base solution do not emulsify together.

* After stirring or gently rocking basified tea and Shellite for 1-2 minutes, let the layers (Shellite and basified tea) separate fully and sit for 10-15 minutes. Repeat this process 4-5 times and after the last agitation, let the mix sit for a good 60 minutes before proceeding to next stage.

* Now the Shellite solvent layer will be sitting clearly on top of the basified phyllode tea and can be removed or ‘pulled’ using a glass turkey baster. The Shellite only results are then squirted gently onto a plate (TAKE GREAT CARE to only remove the clear solvent layer and to not get any black basified tea in the collection). If you notice any basified tea getting into the baster as you are drawing it up, simply pour into a shot glass allowing the solvent layer to re-separate leaving any residues of base you may have accidentally caught on the bottom. Let these small volumes settle and removing just the Shellite again from the shot glass with an eye-dropper.

* Once first pull of 150ml Shellite is collected on the plate leave, this to evaporate overnight in low light, dry area (fanning the plate can be used to speed this up). The last few millimetres of Shellite are hard to pull out so don’t worry about capturing this until the very last pull. When the Shellite is collected on the plate, you might observe that when you blow on it gently (or when the fan starts); milky white clouds will appear where air hits the DMT saturated Shellite - this is DMT being revealed in the solvent!

* After all the Shellite has evaporated off the plate and cannot be smelt (a clear DMT smell is likely present instead), using a flexible razor blade, scrape the remaining layer up and leave to dry further. Final results on the plate will yield either crystals, a sand-like product or a resinous honey like wax – or variation thereof.

* After collecting on the plate, add a new lot of 150ml Shellite to the basified acacia tea again and repeat the agitation/separation process. This can sometimes mean doing 5-6 phases of agitation and Shellite collection -until the no more results are can be scraped up from the plate after the Shellite is evaporated.


Safe & Scintillating travels - Flux

DO NOT FOLLOW THIS TEK!!! Straight VM&P NAPHTHA or SHELLITE as known in the uk contains petroleum solids that are left behind after full evap of the liquid solvent. This amounts to ingesting petroleum condensate, or "CONDIE" as it is known in the oilfields and refineries of the world. It is rich in benzene and other lel explosive chemicals. A naphtha extraction REQUIRES a freeze crash as an end step. Much more complex chemistry than evap. You are likening the final step to a cannabis extraction with an alcohol solvent that fully evaporates, which it is not. This is called a de-fat, and is already done with your A/B cycling. The plant oils are left behind in the basified substrates... usually as an intermediate waxy layer between the solvent and base, because the oils do not contain the desired compound, whereas naphtha is a n/p solvent, and only disolves the n/p crystals.You have it right all the way up to "MILKY LIQUID". That is where you STOP evaporating. Here your solvent is super saturated , and you put it in a Pyrex dish or glass that gives the liquid height rather than width as volume if that makes sense... you don't want to see the crystals poking out of the liquid. Now you cover the Pyrex and put it in a deep freeze for no less than 24 hours. Do not look at or disturb. After 24 hours the dmt crystals will have fallen out of suspension in the super saturated solvent, and while still cold, you pour the now clear solvent off the top, and THEN fan dry the crystals. Not allowing the solvent to evap fully also keeps the ccondensates in solution, and they pour right off the top, leaving your delightfully UNPOISONED magic spice

 

[MindRocket]

If you like playing with serum on a plate, you can THEN do a wash with ethanol or iso to eliminate the last traces of solvent taste. Disolve your crystals in a glass and you will see a thin oily spot on top of the alcohol. Remove with a pipette or eye dropper and discard. Then fully evap until dry. however, as dmt base is polymorphic, it is possible you may not get your crystals back and end up with more of a butter like substance. No difference in effect, only appearance.

 

[MindRocket]

(

If you like playing with serum on a plate, you can THEN do a wash with ethanol or iso to eliminate the last traces of solvent taste. Disolve your crystals in a glass and you will see a thin oily spot on top of the alcohol. Remove with a pipette or eye dropper and discard. Then fully evap until dry. however, as dmt base is polymorphic, it is possible you may not get your crystals back and end up with more of a butter like substance. No difference in effect, only appearance.

This is likely due to the crystals becoming hydrolyzed and then hydrogenated by small percentages of water dilution in isopropyl or ethenol. Distillation to purify the alcohol can be done with just a basic chemistry set, and keeping the alcohol chilled in a freezer will also give better odds of crystal recovery. NOTE: as this is only a solution using solvent, chilled is optimal to retain original perameters. Solvents used for extraction are more effective warmed in a water bath.

 

[Transform]

Your last 3 steps are incorrect AND assuredly result in a dangerous end product.


DO NOT FOLLOW THIS TEK!!! Straight VM&P NAPHTHA or SHELLITE as known in the uk contains petroleum solids that are left behind after full evap of the liquid solvent. This amounts to ingesting petroleum condensate, or "CONDIE" as it is known in the oilfields and refineries of the world. It is rich in benzene and other lel explosive chemicals. A naphtha extraction REQUIRES a freeze crash as an end step. Much more complex chemistry than evap. You are likening the final step to a cannabis extraction with an alcohol solvent that fully evaporates, which it is not. This is called a de-fat, and is already done with your A/B cycling. The plant oils are left behind in the basified substrates... usually as an intermediate waxy layer between the solvent and base, because the oils do not contain the desired compound, whereas naphtha is a n/p solvent, and only disolves the n/p crystals.You have it right all the way up to "MILKY LIQUID". That is where you STOP evaporating. Here your solvent is super saturated , and you put it in a Pyrex dish or glass that gives the liquid height rather than width as volume if that makes sense... you don't want to see the crystals poking out of the liquid. Now you cover the Pyrex and put it in a deep freeze for no less than 24 hours. Do not look at or disturb. After 24 hours the dmt crystals will have fallen out of suspension in the super saturated solvent, and while still cold, you pour the now clear solvent off the top, and THEN fan dry the crystals. Not allowing the solvent to evap fully also keeps the ccondensates in solution, and they pour right off the top, leaving your delightfully UNPOISONED magic spice

I respectfully disagree about the point claiming benzene will remain in the condensate - benzene evaporates easily (BP 80°C) and if we look at its melting point (5.53 °C (41.95 °F; 278.68 K)), we might just as well claim that freeze precipitation carries this risk. But for sure, we do regularly point out that naphtha and other solvents should be tested before use to ensure that they evaporate cleanly. And as for "LEL explosive chemicals" - there is nothing intrinsically explosive present in shellite. Any explosion hazard arises from air/vapour mixtures, something which is far less likely to occur with the condensate than with the bulk of the volatile aliphatic hydrocarbon content of the solvent.

Distillation to purify the alcohol can be done with just a basic chemistry set

This applies equally to cleaning up naphtha, and while we're at it, don't expect to be able to remove water from alcohol by distillation alone because azeotropes form (and, ironically perhaps, one favoured method for breaking the azeotrope was the addition of benzene to form a ternary azeotrope with a lower boiling point than any of the binary combinations or individual components). Furthermore, anhydrous ethanol or IPA rapidly absorbs moisture from the air in the envisaged open dish situation, but you'll at least be starting from a relatively advantageous point should you happen to employ anhydrous alcohol for the naphtha removal process except the naphtha will be somewhat soluble in the dry solvent, making removal of the aforementioned oily layer impossible.

This is likely due to the crystals becoming hydrolyzed and then hydrogenated by small percentages of water

This is simply wrong. Nothing is getting hydrolysed or hydrogenated. Water molecules may be disrupting crystal formation as the alcohol evaporates. At a push, we could call this hydration. More likely is simply that the solubility of DMT in alcohol is so high that the molecules deposit themselves in a highly disordered configuration with respect to each other, in stark contrast to how they can align themselves neatly when freeze-precipitated from a much poorer solvent like naphtha.

 

[Louie]

Your last 3 steps are incorrect AND assuredly result in a dangerous end product.


DO NOT FOLLOW THIS TEK!!! Straight VM&P NAPHTHA or SHELLITE as known in the uk contains petroleum solids that are left behind after full evap of the liquid solvent. This amounts to ingesting petroleum condensate, or "CONDIE" as it is known in the oilfields and refineries of the world. It is rich in benzene and other lel explosive chemicals. A naphtha extraction REQUIRES a freeze crash as an end step. Much more complex chemistry than evap. You are likening the final step to a cannabis extraction with an alcohol solvent that fully evaporates, which it is not. This is called a de-fat, and is already done with your A/B cycling. The plant oils are left behind in the basified substrates... usually as an intermediate waxy layer between the solvent and base, because the oils do not contain the desired compound, whereas naphtha is a n/p solvent, and only disolves the n/p crystals.You have it right all the way up to "MILKY LIQUID". That is where you STOP evaporating. Here your solvent is super saturated , and you put it in a Pyrex dish or glass that gives the liquid height rather than width as volume if that makes sense... you don't want to see the crystals poking out of the liquid. Now you cover the Pyrex and put it in a deep freeze for no less than 24 hours. Do not look at or disturb. After 24 hours the dmt crystals will have fallen out of suspension in the super saturated solvent, and while still cold, you pour the now clear solvent off the top, and THEN fan dry the crystals. Not allowing the solvent to evap fully also keeps the ccondensates in solution, and they pour right off the top, leaving your delightfully UNPOISONED magic spice

Thanks for the heads up MindRocket, I did try and freeze precipitate in a deep freezer in a covered pyrex dish but Only ended up with yellow floaters in the solution towards the bottom after 36hrs. So can I next time just filter through a coffee filter and is it possible to clean up what I have made. As far as alcohol can I use methylated spirits or Rubbing alcohol in a A/B extraction? Is there a simple fool proof method out there that you don't have to be a chemist to perform?

 

[Transform]

Is there a simple fool proof method

Nature will always develop a better fool.

You don't have to be a chemist to perform any of this (but it usually helps).

Please take the time to read the post subsequent to the one you quoted, where several of the assertions in the previous post are refuted, clarified and/or put into perspective. It may be wise for you to think a little more critically regarding information you find on the internet (if that doesn't give rise to a paradox... quack, quack!)

As far as alcohol can I use methylated spirits or Rubbing alcohol in a A/B extraction?

Ethanol and IPA are both miscible with water, so an A/B approach isn't really suitable. It is better to use either as little water as possible, or another strategy entirely. There are a couple of methods where ethanol can be used to extract from alkaloid-containing plant material:

Extracting DMT with ethanol, vinegar and sodium carbonate

Another question . When sodium carbonate is rehydrated it's becoming bi-carbonate again right? So the only by-product left in the final product would be sodium bicarb? As I have read elsewhere that people are known to use vapourising bi-carb to help with asthma anyway. Well except for maybe...

forum.dmt-nexus.me

Instant ayahuasca little lightening bolt TEK

Interesting, so this does mean you would recommend adding an acid to these cold alcohol soaks? If so, which acid would be the best choice? EDIT: And am still unclear as to whether iso or ethanol would be better for soaking up orally active DMT, if any? Tnx again for all the help! This being in...

forum.dmt-nexus.me

Cooking bark in vodka, filtering, and precipitating tannins with pickling lime appears to hold some promise.

 

[Ozzy_Chronik]

Acacia leiocalyx

I have recently observed positive results from A.leiocalyx trunk bark.

Harvested material was selected from an adult tree which unfortunately met it's end last year during the storms. The bark was all from around the dead stump that was left after being cut down.

Just to reiterate, this bark was still attached to the stump (just) but had been out in the elements of the Qld weather for over 18 months. There was nothing 'fresh' about this material.




The process.
A/B Tek


1st acid pull

250g of the bark was powdered using a shredder followed by Nutribullet to leave mostly dust and a bit of fibre.

100ml of white cooking vinegar added

1000ml distilled water added

Simmer for at least 1 hour

Drain and keep liquid.



2nd acid pull

Repeat steps as above



3rd acid pull

50ml vinegar added

500ml distilled water added

Simmer for at least 1 hour

Drain and keep liquid.



All saved liquids were combined and reduced down to 500ml, then allowed to cool.



Freebase conversion

60g of lye into 250ml of water, did not let it cool, add to reduced liquid.
No precipitation was visualised upon contact.
Pressure was monitored and vigorous shaking was performed, screw the emulsion I'll show it who's boss when/if it shows its ugly head.



Extraction

I managed to dig 250ml of shellite out of the shed in town.
Added it to the caustic soup.
The first Pressure peak will come after the naphtha is added so alot of care is needed.
Gentle rolls and tips with constant burping of the jar until pressure isn't of a concern.
Begin vigorous shaking. Have at it.

The jar was then added to a warm water bath probably around 60 Celsius.
Pressure again, be careful.

After settlement and more shaking about 5 times over the next 3 hours I removed the shellite and repeated extraction process 2 more times until I had produced about 600ml of saturated naphtha.

Naphtha has turned almost flourescent yellow by this point.




Freeze participation will be performed on the collected sample.
Followed by possibly a heptane wash to clear any impurities.



Because I'm an impatient sod, A small amount of the saturated naphtha was evaporated on a mirror leaving behind a yellow gooey oil.
Smells like the universe.

I endeavour to keep you all posted on the future results.


So just to summarise whats planned and what to look for:

Freeze precip results
TLC results
Re-x/Heptane wash results

Edit: Between the time it took for me to copy and paste this to the correct place I ended up smoking 0.05 of the oil changa style. One breath. Instantly sank me into my seat and felt the need to turn up my music. Shut my eyes and enjoyed what although weak was definitely a familiar feeling. For such a miniscule drop the effects were definitely noticeable.
Can confirm leiocalyx is active, with what exactly I will find out