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Bufotenine Extraction

Migrated topic.
acolon_5

acolon_5

The Great Namah
OG Pioneer
There has been numerous different poorly written teks over the internet and on erowid. It would be nice to have a tried and true method to get bufotenine freebase (or calcium bufotenine or 5-o-dmt or whatever its being called nowadays!).

While this is not a dmt extraction 5-ho-dmt is a molecule that is even rarer to come by than DMT and is closely related. Plus I have a ton of seeds and a new interest of this molecule (thank you 69ron).


So, please post your Yopo/Cebil extractions here:
 
This is the easiest one I know. It requires no A/B extractions, so there are no emulsions to deal with. The extraction is based on Vilca (Anadenanthera colubrina) and doesn’t work well for real Yopo (Anadenanthera peregrina). Keep in mind that most Yopo currently available on the market is in fact Vilca. Vilca contains mostly bufotenine and little else. Yopo contains mostly DMT and may contain a little 5-MeO-DMT and bufotenine. They are very different. This tech excludes DMT from the extraction so using it with real Yopo is not desirable.

Acetone Citrate Bufotenine Precipitation Tech

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.
* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.
* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.
 
This is the best that my friend has tried.

"You want to start with water. If you start with alcohol, it pulls out a TON of fat and oil from the beans. If you don't mind de-fatting your extract, alcohol will do fine. De-fatting is a drag. However always make sure to add calcium hydroxide at some point near the end of your extraction or you’ll end up with an acidic form of bufotenin which will make you sick.

Here’s a simple tech that anyone can do.

* Go to a country were this is 100% LEGAL! Do NOT do this in a country were it is not 100% legal to do so. Its legal in most countries. I like Brazil. Its not legal in the US. What's wrong with Americans? I thought this was the land of the free like the song says.
* Boil the powdered beans covered in plenty of water (made pH 3 with hydrochloric acid, or just use 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water). Filter out the beans. You might want to do this a few times to get all the alkaloids.
* Evaporate the water extract down to a syrupy consistency. You can use an oven at 175 F to evaporate your stuff if you like. It’s best to use a commercial food dehydrator for this.
* To your syrup add alcohol (91% isopropyl alcohol is great), enough to make it easy to poor. Mix it for a minute or so. Solids will forms.
* Filter out the solids that form and discard them.
* Evaporate your alcohol down to a syrupy consistency.
* To your thick syrup add calcium hydroxide (pickling lime for cooking), enough to make a paste. Mix it thoroughly. It should start to smell like ammonia. Let it sit for many hours. Once the ammonia smell is gone, the reaction is complete. Instead of aweful acidic bufotenine you now have the superior calcium bufotenate in your extract.

At this point you have two options:

Alcohol option:

* mix in a generous amount of alcohol to soak up the bufotenine. Filter out the solids, evaporate your alcohol to get a pretty good extract (about 30% calcium bufotenate). Break it up into a fine powder. About 5 mg is a good starting dose for vaporizing it.

Acetone option:

* dry your extract completely. Then break it up into a fine powder.
* mix in a generous amount of acetone (available as a 100% pure solvent at most hardware stores) to soak up the bufotenine. Filter out the solids, evaporate your acetone to get a pretty good extract (about 75% calcium bufotenate).
* dissolve your extract in just enough 91% isopropyl alcohol to make a thick syrup.
* add 2 parts water. Filter out and SAVE the solids. The solids are your calcium bufotenate and the water should be discarded. Now you have nearly 90% pure calcium bufotenate. About 2 mg is a good starting dose for vaporizing it. A 10 mg dose is VERY INTENSE. Note that a small amount of calcium bufotenate will be left in the water used. This can be saved and re-extracted later.

Either way, the final extract tends to be a little bit sticky, more so if you go the alcohol route. I recommend adding a little cellulose like pharmaceutical companies use. About 10-20% by weight is good. You can buy cellulose at health food stores. It’s sold as dietary fiber. Just weigh out your extract to calculate 10-20% of that weight in cellulose, add some alcohol to it, just enough to make a syrup, then mix your cellulose and let it dry again. It shouldn't be sticky anymore."
 
69ron said:
This is the easiest one I know. It requires no A/B extractions, so there are no emulsions to deal with. The extraction is based on Vilca (Anadenanthera colubrina) and doesn’t work well for real Yopo (Anadenanthera peregrina). Keep in mind that most Yopo currently available on the market is in fact Vilca. Vilca contains mostly bufotenine and little else. Yopo contains mostly DMT and may contain a little 5-MeO-DMT and bufotenine. They are very different. This tech excludes DMT from the extraction so using it with real Yopo is not desirable.

Acetone Citrate Bufotenine Precipitation Tech

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.
* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.
* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.
Click to expand...

69Ron,

Is having the citrate salt important or would a acetate, phosphate, suflate, or hydrocloride salt work as well? Have you tried using different acids to precipitate?
 
Another acid was never tried. Different salts have different solubility profiles. It’s been said on this forum that fumaric acid can precipitate DMT from acetone, so maybe fumaric acid is another option.

SWIM has tons of citric acid and so he uses that all the time. He has several other acids that he could test: fumaric acid, phosphoric acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, ascorbic acid, malic acid, and a few others.

Because SWIM’s lab is under construction he can’t test anything right now.

One thing SWIM really wants to test is to see if freebase bufotenine can be crystallized from a mix of 1:3 of acetone and heptane. He thinks this might work. So far the only solvent that worked has been ethyl acetate and that’s really hard for SWIM to get, and so SWIM will probably not get anymore ethyl acetate again.

With precipitation of the citrate salts from acetone, you get bufotenine citrate along with some other alkaloids. It would be nice to be able to freebase it and crystallize it to purify it further without having to use ethyl acetate to freeze precipitate it.
 
69ron said:
Another acid was never tried. Different salts have different solubility profiles. It’s been said on this forum that fumaric acid can precipitate DMT from acetone, so maybe fumaric acid is another option.

SWIM has tons of citric acid and so he uses that all the time. He has several other acids that he could test: fumaric acid, phosphoric acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, ascorbic acid, malic acid, and a few others.

Because SWIM’s lab is under construction he can’t test anything right now.

One thing SWIM really wants to test is to see if freebase bufotenine can be crystallized from a mix of 1:3 of acetone and heptane. He thinks this might work. So far the only solvent that worked has been ethyl acetate and that’s really hard for SWIM to get, and so SWIM will probably not get anymore ethyl acetate again.

With precipitation of the citrate salts from acetone, you get bufotenine citrate along with some other alkaloids. It would be nice to be able to freebase it and crystallize it to purify it further without having to use ethyl acetate to freeze precipitate it.
Click to expand...

Could acetone be used to dissolve it and heptane added slowly until minor preciptate forms (isn't insoluable in heptane right?)...then stuck in the freezer to lower solubility even more?
 
acolon_5 said:
Could acetone be used to dissolve it and heptane added slowly until minor preciptate forms (isn't insoluable in heptane right?)...then stuck in the freezer to lower solubility even more?
Click to expand...

SWIM is dying to test that very thing out. It should work. SWIM has lots of bufotenine to test sitting around in boxes. His lab is under construction so he can’t test anything yet. He has a list a mile long of tests he wants to perform and his list keeps getting longer, but the bufotenine crystallization tests, and the DMT fumarate acetone precipitation tests are at the top of his list:)

SWIM recently bought a cooler/heater that lets you set the temperature digitally anywhere from 39F up to 140F and it keeps the temperature you select quite well. SWIM got it just to do freeze precipitation tests on various alkaloids where he’ll start at 140F and slowly bring it down to 39F over the course of 1 week in order to produce extremely large pure crystals. SWIM is not just interested in things like 5-MeO-DMT, DMT, and 5-HO-DMT, he's also interested in many other unusual plant alkaloids used for medical purposes but doesn’t talk about them much on this forum.



SWIM is thinking of trying to use acetone and xylene to crystallize bufotenine. He’s still got some nasty smelling xylene sitting around that he wants to use up. He’s thinking to dissolve crude amber freebase bufotenine (extracted as freebase from Anadenanthera colubrina) in just enough acetone to dissolve it, and then add 1 part xylene. He’s not sure of the acetone to xylene ratio, he’ll have to play around with it. Then he’ll let the acetone evaporate off. Xylene evaporates many times slower than acetone. Within a few days, most of the acetone should have evaporated away leaving behind just xylene. Because freebase bufotenine is insoluble in xylene, it should crystallize in the xylene as the acetone slowly evaporates away.



As freebase, bufotenine is completely insoluble in room temperature xylene, heptane, naphtha, and hexane. SWIM tested all of those solvents and freebase bufotenine won’t dissolve at all in any of those solvents. SWIM never tried them hot though, only at room temperature.

As freebase, bufotenine will dissolve in room temperature ethyl alcohol, in isopropyl alcohol, in methanol, in DCM, in ether, in methyl ethyl ketone, in acetone, and in chloroform. It will not crystallize from any of those in all of the tests SWIM tried. Maybe there’s some way to do it that SWIM is unaware of. I believe the main problem is that it’s too soluble in all of those solvents.

As freebase, bufotenine will also dissolve in large amounts of hot water, even at pH 9 and up, but won’t crystallize from it as it cools down; instead it floats to the top and forms beads that look oily.



One thing important to take note of, freebase bufotenine will eventually form bufotenine carbonate from exposure to air. Mescaline also does this. This will mess up your test results because bufotenine carbonate is a very water soluble salt. Bufotenine carbonate is darker in color, and almost looks like tar. If your freebase bufotenine starts looking darker after storage for a few days, it’s forming bufotenine carbonate, and possibly some bufotenine N-Oxide too. So it’s always good to freebase all old bufotenine before doing tests with it and even better to perform an N-Oxide reduction step beforehand.
 
SWIM was wondering something...he has seen teks that say you can dry the paste at 150f...but is it necessary? does the heat convert it somehow?? would rather stay away from using the oven


also heating the seeds before on a pan...is that necessary as well?
 
The natives nearly always toast the seeds before and after making the snuff, and SWIM now understands why.

SWIM found that the final freebase product from a normal A/B extraction using DCM can be made more potent by toasting it. Some inactive and toxic compounds apparently vaporize away when toasted. After toasting the extract, it’s more potent, easier to vaporize, and produces less side effects.

Toasting the seeds before extracting them makes them easier to grind, it also gets rid of some of the oils, and some of the inactive and toxic compounds. It’s a good thing. It reduces the junk in the seeds and makes the bufotenine easier to extract.

The melting point of freebase bufotenine is 120-140 C (248 – 284 F)

The boiling point of freebase bufotenine is 300-320 C (572 – 608 F)

At 150 F, you’re not even close to destroying any bufotenine at all. You can easily crank the oven up to 300 F and you’ll be fine. Of course any DMT or 5-MeO-DMT will vaporize away, but there’s usually almost no DMT or 5-MeO-DMT present anyway. But there are a few strains high in DMT or 5-MeO-DMT, but they are very rare to come by.
 
well that makes some sense then..SWIM tried an extraction but didnt toast the seeds first...it was active but not what he was looking for

thanks!
 
SWIM would like to try Bufotenine as swim loves visuals. Swim going to try the TEK 69ron posted a while back. However, swim would like to know if swim should toast the seeds first and if so for how long. Swim also understands that it would be best to smoke the entire 10 - 15mg dose in the span of 5 minutes rather than within a minute like dmt to ease the nausea effects. Will smoking slowly eliminate the nausea completely? Any other tips? Thanks!

-d

69ron said:
This is the easiest one I know. It requires no A/B extractions, so there are no emulsions to deal with. The extraction is based on Vilca (Anadenanthera colubrina) and doesn’t work well for real Yopo (Anadenanthera peregrina). Keep in mind that most Yopo currently available on the market is in fact Vilca. Vilca contains mostly bufotenine and little else. Yopo contains mostly DMT and may contain a little 5-MeO-DMT and bufotenine. They are very different. This tech excludes DMT from the extraction so using it with real Yopo is not desirable.

Acetone Citrate Bufotenine Precipitation Tech

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.
* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.
* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.
Click to expand...
 
somebody told me that you DO want to toast the seeds...it gets rid of some toxins and some oils...helping to get cleaner bufo

and 69ron posted that smoking it slowly is best...start small and keep working up as you go
 
69ron said:
* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
Click to expand...

SWIM was thinking that instead simply air drying the paste, one could oven dry it. This way, toasting and drying could be accomplished in the same step.
 
SWIM was wondering...69ron..your SWIY seems to have the most experience with bufotenine...has SWIY ever tried to walk around outside while on it...or do the visuals completely obscure SWIY vision?
 
You can walk around and talk to people just fine even during very intense visual effects. But at very high doses (approaching break through effects) it's hard to walk accurately. Your motor skills start suffering, and it becomes hard to concentrate, but this is unlike the effects of other psychedelics. You don’t get mental LSD-like or DMT-like “psychedelic” effects even at extremely high doses. So you can talk to people just fine, but might pause here and there, forgetting what you were talking about as if you didn’t get enough sleep, but your ability to understand things properly remains untouched.

With a really intense trip, you’ll be hearing voices (in the back of your mind, not real voices), seeing full blown objects floating in front of you, everything in your surroundings will be melting and twisting. That in itself is a little disorienting. It throws your balance off if its intense enough. But you can always still see your surroundings, they are never obscured completely by the visions (unless you have a break through dose). The visions are like a glimpse into another dimension and don’t affect your ability to see real things. So yes, you can walk around and function in the normal world, but if the trip is strong enough, you’ll be a little forgetful, and you might be a little wobbly. If anything, people might think you were sleepy, or had a little wine to drink. You won’t be active funny though, just forgetful and a little wobbly.

The mental effects at high doses are hard to explain. You become forgetful. For example, you could be writing a sentence and then in mid-sentence pause for a few moments, trying to remember what you were typing, and then it will come back to you, and you’ll continue with the sentence. You don’t get lost in your mind with racing thoughts like you do with DMT or LSD causing your mind to be flooded with thoughts. It doesn’t do that. It’s sort of relaxing mentally. It’s almost the opposite effect of most other psychedelics. Instead of racing thoughts, you’re likely to get the opposite, a complete stillness of thoughts.

Again, the mental effects are weak. I don’t know what to compare them with. It’s nothing like alcohol, marijuana or LSD. The closest thing to its effects on the brain at high doses are those experienced when you didn’t have enough sleep. If you’ve ever not had enough sleep, and noticed forgetfulness and inability to concentrate at full capacity, it’s very much like that. No LSD-style mental “mind fuck”, no marijuana style stoning effect, no drunkenness effect, none of that. It’s just sort of a burnt out feeling on the mind. I guess this is from the mind being so busy creating voices and visions that little energy is left for other processes and so your ability to concentrate at full capacity is hindered.

SWIM has not often taken extremely large doses. A breakthrough dose will knock you out, just like DMT will. There’s no need for that. With as little as 10 mg smoked, you can have full visions by simply closing your eyes and relaxing. At that dose the closed eye visions are incredible and you can very easily interact with reality when needed. You could even drive if you need to (but I don’t recommend driving under the influence of anything). That dose leaves you mentally intact and doesn’t interfere with your motor skills. Doses of 30 mg and above are approaching breakthrough doses and at those doses your motor skills start to suffer and you become forgetful.
 
69ron said:
acolon_5 said:
Could acetone be used to dissolve it and heptane added slowly until minor preciptate forms (isn't insoluable in heptane right?)...then stuck in the freezer to lower solubility even more?
Click to expand...

SWIM is dying to test that very thing out. It should work. SWIM has lots of bufotenine to test sitting around in boxes. His lab is under construction so he can’t test anything yet. He has a list a mile long of tests he wants to perform and his list keeps getting longer, but the bufotenine crystallization tests, and the DMT fumarate acetone precipitation tests are at the top of his list:)
Click to expand...

So did SWIM already tried any of those things???
 
69ron said:
This is the easiest one I know. It requires no A/B extractions, so there are no emulsions to deal with. The extraction is based on Vilca (Anadenanthera colubrina) and doesn’t work well for real Yopo (Anadenanthera peregrina). Keep in mind that most Yopo currently available on the market is in fact Vilca. Vilca contains mostly bufotenine and little else. Yopo contains mostly DMT and may contain a little 5-MeO-DMT and bufotenine. They are very different. This tech excludes DMT from the extraction so using it with real Yopo is not desirable.

Acetone Citrate Bufotenine Precipitation Tech

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.
* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.
* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.
Click to expand...

so SWIM is at the stage where he mixed the citric acid solution with the alkaloid heavy acetone..and it seeing precipitation...YAY! almost done


great tek by the way...SWIM isnt so much on doing the whole boiling down water thing...takes a long time and it stinks:p

this tek is very clean and straight forward...WONDERFUL!
 
69ron said:
This is the easiest one I know. It requires no A/B extractions, so there are no emulsions to deal with. The extraction is based on Vilca (Anadenanthera colubrina) and doesn’t work well for real Yopo (Anadenanthera peregrina). Keep in mind that most Yopo currently available on the market is in fact Vilca. Vilca contains mostly bufotenine and little else.Yopo contains mostly DMT and may contain a little 5-MeO-DMT and bufotenine. They are very different.
This tech excludes DMT from the extraction so using it with real Yopo is not desirable.



Acetone Citrate Bufotenine Precipitation Tech

* Coarsely grind 100 grams of Vilca seeds.
* Add 1 part pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) and mix in enough water to make it wet. NOTE: sodium carbonate works as a substitute for lime in all steps of this extraction tech.
* Mix for about 10 minutes and let it dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Dissolve the mix in 500 ml of dry acetone. Filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the acetone down to about 100 ml.
* Add 10% citric acid solution to the acetone until no more precipitation is seen. It will take about 30 ml of 10% citric acid solution for 100 grams of seeds. NOTE: to make the citric acid solution, dissolve 10 grams of citric acid in 100 ml of dry acetone. I will take a while for the citric acid to dissolve in the acetone, so prepare this solution several hours ahead of time.

* Carefully pour out the acetone leaving behind the precipitates. Discard the acetone.

* Dry the precipitates completely leaving crude bufotenine citrate and other junk. Bufotenine citrate is a goo and not very active. You don’t want it in this form.
* Slowly mix in lime until the goo becomes a dry powder. Then add water to make the mix wet and mix for about 10 minutes and let the mix dry completely. There must not be any water present at all before going to the next step.
* Grind the mix to a powder. Dissolve in 100 ml acetone and filter out the solids. Repeat with more acetone until the acetone is nearly clear.
* Evaporate the collected acetone to get nearly pure freebase bufotenine.
Click to expand...



Hey 69Ron :) ,

Thanks for this TEK , I'm going to try it soon with the Seeds sold as Yopo by Amazonhealing.

A Question: Is the bold step the step which skips eventual DMT ?
I got a lot of Fumaric Acid , could it be useful ?

Regards
 
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